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My 1st Voron 2.4 R2 350 self source


Pradit

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1 hour ago, Pradit said:

I have a 5V PSU and Waho connector.

It's a little hard to make out how the 5V PSU is connected up, in the video, the cables seem to tuck under the PSU 😉 to be honest I would not think it was the USB cable (it's only running 5V at a few amps) but not the first time I have been wrong. Unless your cable is metres long, or amazingly thin wires, I would not expect any significant voltage drop (around 1.4V to drop the PI to the 4.6V complaining threshold). Does the cable feel hot to the touch (careful in case it's super hot) that would be indicative to it being ridiculously underspec.

It is worthwhile checking that the 5V PSU is actually pumping out 5V (there's usually a little trimpot that allows you to adjust to output voltage by a volt either way).  Since you have it plugged in via the USB (which goes through the PI's Voltage regulator) then you could boost the PSU to 5.2V (but no higher). NB: the "expected" means of powering your PI is via the GPIO pins and from memory (not enough coffee at this time in the morning) that bypasses the Voltage regulator so best to only push in 5V through the GPIO route.

As a side note, if you are checking the PSU with a multimeter then (if you have more than one) it would be good to check with different multimeters ('m just paranoid). I was recently checking one of my power supplies and only discovered one of my (supposedly good multimeters) had started reading 2V over the actual! Fortunately, I have more than one meter.

 

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Oh, as you've noticed you can run the PI while it's grumbling about low-voltage (or under power if it's getting less than 5A). However, there's a non-zero chance it will randomly crap out if doing something intensive (lots of calculations).

Looking at that video again, I was wondering how the screen is being powered? Is it powered via the PI or a second power line?

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You power the pi with USB C? why not on the GPIO pins? 

My guess it can be two things, wiring shorter or thicker.

Take of the webcam, see if it still does this, or take of the display.. I think the led on the pi also indicates low power by color?

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You display is attached by HDMI I think, not flatcable? 

I never used that one, maybe it takes more power... not sure... but there is also difference in webcam power.

Most of the time, taking of the webcam solves it, yet, you want your webcam, but I never had this, while using quite thin wires to power the PI from the 25W PSU, but always directly, never trough a wago.

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7 minutes ago, Buurman said:

You display is attached by HDMI I think, not flatcable? 

I never used that one, maybe it takes more power... not sure... but there is also difference in webcam power.

Most of the time, taking of the webcam solves it, yet, you want your webcam, but I never had this, while using quite thin wires to power the PI from the 25W PSU, but always directly, never trough a wago.

The flat pi cable.

 

I ll make new usb wire direct to psu and test it. I got all usb barebone. 😉

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Maybe try GPIO pins to power it? its easier to use thicker wires than with a usb plug?

The USB on the PI should only be used for communication only, not power.

AH... correction, you are powering it by the USB C, but then again, thin wires are in these plugs...

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No, USB can power but there is also stuff in there for communication, thats why the wires are so thin, to make it fit.

Its not micro usb anymore its usb C, well, on a Pi4, on a 3 its micro..

Your choice, im just saying, I never had these issues and im using GPIO pins for power, its your choice 😉 

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The USB-C is for power on the Pi 4 (that's how my Octoprint Pi is powered on the Mini). My Trident Pi is powered off GPIO from the Octopus with 22AWG wires. It eventually complained about undervolt, so I connected both 5V lines and it's been happy.

Connecting via GPIO is cleaner IMHO, but you need to make sure the config is right and it's supposed to be harder to troubleshoot if things go sideways. Mine just worked, so I'm happy with how it's set up.

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2 minutes ago, eugen360 said:

There's also another aspect of this powering on USB vs GPIO pins. If you choose GPIO than you will not benefit the rPI protection circuitry that is available only on USB (micro or C type)... There is a fuse and also a diode that protects the Pi from power mistakes!

That's the thing... I just don't know what to call. But that's what I think the purpose of the power outlet.

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# Tuning........ Fail!!!

I just don't get the term and jargon or the parameter or everything altogether.

LIke follow everything blindly and that's the result.

This happened with my misunderstand the z endstop offset value.

(Less mean higher from the bed, More mean lower to the bed. Dont make mistake like me.)

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And really I didn't know what to look for the result on the 1st layer.

 

Gave up and go with pressure advance (PA)

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Again I don't know what parameter I suppose to adjust.

Do I adjust PA as the result giving then retest?

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When PA has been set then what should we update the number while real printing?
More number mean what? Less mean what? Really confusing.

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OK I kept going with the tuning something else.

Lets try the cube.

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Yap again, What those mean and what to fix?

Which parameter? I've been lost in the rabbit hole deeper and deeper....

I was using Prusaslicer at that time.

And I changed to Superslicer now.

 

 

Edited by Pradit
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I'm taking a break for tuning and calibration before I'm getting mad.

Lets print something useful and see the mistake.

# PI Cam mount.

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Those mistakes what are they called? 

I have to research more on those.

 

The angle very limited to my 350 build. I couldn't see the 0,0. PI Cam quality really limit.

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# Fail slicing...

I just download Ellis profile and use his printer profile and slice the belt tension tool.

I thought why not!! I have Rapido UHF. (but use the HF)

What could go wrong!!!

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I have been printing so many tension tool just to trial and error with slicer parameter.

To see what could be the problem. All dead end. Spent all night figure it out but no result.

image.thumb.jpeg.392650ce55c8cdd65099de7afbcc4a8b.jpeg

 

 

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In the morning I checked the temp flow for my extruder while hot.

180, 200, 210, 215 in order from left to right.

215 much better. So I setup for my PLA with this temp from now on.

image.thumb.jpeg.76205e54933f8c5a7be2f0503a967409.jpeg

 

I went ahead check the teeth mark on the filament that extruder made.

It look nice not grinding and have little mark. So the extrusion should be fine.

Then what causes the under extrusion then????

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Go with PA test again with 215C.

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Now I set PA at 0.05.

 

Edited by Pradit
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#Slicer

It is the key of everything. I have to learn more on slicer.

I decided to change to Superslicer instead since most people in Voron using it.

But I'm using Mac I had trouble installing it while I downloaded from the github.

My Mac error while installing.

Then I found this homebrew. https://formulae.brew.sh/cask/superslicer

Then again I import Ellis's profile into SSlicer and print things.

# Wago mount

 

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A little bit better belt tension. I have lots of these.

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Starting belt tension.

At first I really don't get it how tight and what is 110 hz thing.

How to determine? How to inspect? At which location to detect? Etc..

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Belt tension tool STL file here.

The mobile app like spectrum stuff. I don't know how to use it. Very confusing.

Guitar tuner... bloody hell.. Didnt catch any frequency.

I went on and on finding the app.

Here what I learn.

The belt should be pretty tight to make sound higher than 70hz for those app to catch.

AB belt you have to move the toolhead at Y 130 and X mid of your bed. Get the belt close to 140hz.

Or at least get the same tension for both.

Z belt just moves th toolhead to Z10 and tests. 

Very very tight then the string can make bass sound like in the guitar. I get it now.

Then after finish I use belt tension tool to verify once again. 

And done....

 

 

Here come another problem.... Gantry racking once again after tension the bloody belt....

 

I'm running in circle..... 😞

 

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