My 1st Voron 2.4 R2 350 self source

[mvdveer]

8 hours ago, Pradit said:

thought of that but again crimping is not my bes

@smirk will convince you otherwise - he did me. Having the right crimping pliers makes all the difference. And the more you do it the better you get at it , or so I'm told

[Pradit]

5 hours ago, mvdveer said:

@smirk will convince you otherwise - he did me. Having the right crimping pliers makes all the difference. And the more you do it the better you get at it , or so I'm told

True... I got the new crimp tool life much easier with it...

But dang the tool only for 20-28 awg...

I must have 16-20 awg too. Have to buy them all.... Hahaha.

[smirk]

5 hours ago, Pradit said:

I must have 16-20 awg too. Have to buy them all.

Just like Vorons you can never have too many tools

[claudermilk]

Well, building Vorons is an excuse to buy more tools, which is an excuse to build more Vorons, which is...

[atrushing]

1 hour ago, claudermilk said:

Well, building Vorons is an excuse to buy more tools, which is an excuse to build more Vorons, which is...

I am afraid we may have slipped into recursion again!

[smirk]

11 minutes ago, atrushing said:

I am afraid we may have slipped into recursion again!

It'll all end in tears when his stack pointer runs up against the code segment

[eugen360]

I'm using only this tool for crimping...

[atrushing]

4 minutes ago, eugen360 said:

I'm using only this tool for crimping...

Do you happen to be a surgeon or a watch maker?

[eugen360]

Just now, atrushing said:

Do you happen to be a surgeon or a watch maker?

The truth is I did a few watch repairs in the past...

[PFarm]

Awesome build self source take a lot of will to follow thru with it. Love your video snippets. Thanks for the info on the canbus!

 

Edited December 10, 2022 by PFarm

[Maurici]

Nice build.

Re- using policarbonate roofing material, If you don´t care about the "rougher" finish, is the best and most cost efective thing you can use to enclose a printer.

All my printers are enclosed using roofing PC, and the insulation it gives you with the air chamber is friking awesome. Really good choice!!

 

You shouldn´t use general purpose bike grease for the rails, however, if you are a biker, dry weather chain lube (oil) works wonders, I don´t use anything else in any of my rails. The wd40 all weather chain lube is good, but the most durable (apply and forget forever) is the muck off dry weather chain lube.

Granted, is not the "best of the best" available for rails, but is plenty good enough without going to the unicorn grease at 10 bucks the ml...

 

Have fun!

Edited December 11, 2022 by Maurici

[Pradit]

3 hours ago, Maurici said:

Nice build.

Re- using policarbonate roofing material, If you don´t care about the "rougher" finish, is the best and most cost efective thing you can use to enclose a printer.

All my printers are enclosed using roofing PC, and the insulation it gives you with the air chamber is friking awesome. Really good choice!!

You shouldn´t use general purpose bike grease for the rails, however, if you are a biker, dry weather chain lube (oil) works wonders, I don´t use anything else in any of my rails. The wd40 all weather chain lube is good, but the most durable (apply and forget forever) is the muck off dry weather chain lube.

Granted, is not the "best of the best" available for rails, but is plenty good enough without going to the unicorn grease at 10 bucks the ml...

Have fun!

Yes I thought so that there should be able to use just the chain lube. After that mistake I apply the chain lube and its great too.

 

But Im just not sure so I finally ordered the white lithium grease and use syringe reapplied.

[Pradit]

Whew, back from a lot of tinkering and digging.

And now the CANBUS officially on.

I had many issues encounter along the way.

And with helps both discord and teamfdm.com.

 

# Hotend temp reading wrong.

1st my hotend temp was 48c and bed temp was 25c. 

I thought it just config the sensor type to 104nt-4 should be enough.

But with @michaelmacintyre help I found that printer.cfg I had came with Revo default.

I had to remove 

pullup_resistor

Now it's work.

Also the thermistor that came with Rapido has mulex microfit which I couldn't find in my local.

@smirk suggested me to cut it and use the connector I have. So I did it.

 

# Octoprint lagging

Then I had my octoprint not very responsive. Any gcode command I sent

it took like 5 sec to respond. Boot time is 5 mins.

So I decided to deactivated all plugins.

Octoprint boot time within 1-2mins and gcode command respond within 1 sec.

 

This just temporary hot fix for my chain which blocking when Y homing.

Once I could print I'll print the proper Z chain relocation.

 

*But the chain is still too big so I changed to smaller one last night.

 

I also need to print the proper canbus holder for my wire relief.

 

# Klipper disconnect randomly

I got klipper shutdown, disconnect, "serial is dead", randomly.

So I checked continuity all the time. But somehow my CANBUS connection has a bad crimp.

1 of the pin wasn't go deep enough.

Sad but I had to re-crimp. :~(

 

*Image is blur you can tell how mad I am...

 

 

Edited December 25, 2022 by Pradit

[Pradit]

# Sexbolt Z endstop

Now it's time for Z endstop. I used sexbolt mod.

 

Adjusting the hight of the bolt need to be measure after mount next to the bed.

So don't tighten everything just yet.

 

I mounted the wrong side obviously.

 

A good reference for the Endstop pin.

# Klicky or not to Klicky

Now Klicky original mod. I would say you should try Klicky NG (No Glue) or Unklicky.

From my experience, this is a messy one. The glue just too messy and it just 

ruined my microswitch. 

The best way to put the magnet is to use magnet to push them while it is

still with other magnet. To make sure you got the right polarity.

***GO AWAY FROM THE GLUE MOD***

 

Routing the wires to the side hole of the toolhead.

I connected to the Probe PB8, GND on EBB36.

 

......

 

 

Edited January 3, 2023 by Pradit

[Pradit]

# XY Sensorless Homing and Z endstop

I follow couple of sensorless guides:

vorondesign.com

clee

Klipper3d.org

Since I have no knowledge about klipper or gcode.

Learning this is like walking in the dark to me.

I don't know what I should looking at. Or where to find the reference syntax or log file.

G28 X0 what it suppose to do.

I finally found that is for the SB move to the X axis to the right most to hit the frame.

In my case I put the jumper for TMC2209 for sensorless.

XY so I use PG6, PG9 pin the Red and Blue in the Diag Jumper section.

 

Just learned that what it mentioned in the documents said.

The most sensitivity value is 255. That's when you use G28 X0 it almost didn't move at all.

So you have to decrease the number and work your way to find the maximum number that

make it move to just single touch your frame. Gently no bank or any sound.

You have to find your sweet spot there.

Note that down.

Then go down further to find the minimum number that did not bang your frame.

Note that minimum number down. 

And put the formula from the document into spreadsheet and calculate the number you need in cfg.

Mine is 

driver_SGTHRS: 97

 

stepper_x]
step_pin: PF13
dir_pin: PF12 
enable_pin: !PF14
rotation_distance: 40
microsteps: 32
full_steps_per_rotation:400  #set to 400 for 0.9 degree stepper
endstop_pin: tmc2209_stepper_x:virtual_endstop
position_min: 0
position_endstop: 350
position_max: 350

##--------------------------------------------------------------------
homing_speed: 20   #Max 100
homing_retract_dist: 0
homing_positive_dir: true

##  Make sure to update below for your relevant driver (2208 or 2209)
[tmc2209 stepper_x]
uart_pin: PC4
interpolate: false
run_current: 0.8
sense_resistor: 0.110
stealthchop_threshold: 1
diag_pin: ^PG6 
driver_SGTHRS: 97

 

Do the same with Y.

But for me Y was moving the wrong way to in front of the frame.

Initial setup

This link show step to take for setting up.

Look at the direction of the toolhead.

Then mine was just to "!" invert the Y.

With clee's document there are macro and homing_overide.

Thats increasing my confusing.

Especially with setting up Z endstop.

I end up crashing my toolhead to the bed badly. Crank crank crank!!!

Then I power off.

I did not know what to do. There is not much of instruction on this.

Then I figure out after manually move the toolhead to the Z pin location

and get M114 to return current location.

And I put the gcode moving manually to the location of the pin in the homing_overide.

axes: xyz
gcode: 
  {% set home_all = 'X' not in params and 'Y' not in params and 'Z' not in params %}

  {% if home_all or 'X' in params %}
    z_hop = 10
    _HOME_X
  {% endif %}
  
  {% if home_all or 'Y' in params %}
    _HOME_Y
  {% endif %}
  
  {% if home_all or 'Z' in params %}
    
    G90
    G0 X222 Y349
    G28 Z0
    G1 Z10
  {% endif %} 

 

Then it can home XYZ.

 

I don't know if I've done anything wrong here or not suppose to do.

I'll try the z_hop = 10 for home X today.

 

 

 

Edited December 13, 2022 by Pradit

[Pradit]

# Extruder Tuning

 

Follow the link:

Voron initial setup

Remove hotend put it aside. This test do not require the heat up heater.

Just need to move the motor to extrude the filament.

1st I had motor retract instead of extrude. So I have to revert it in the printer.cfg then reboot.

 

 

[Pradit]

# Logging

I think ~/tmp/Klippy.log log file is good to visit.

When I had problem with canbus disconnected cause by the wire.

I can see that the log show can0 error.

[Buurman]

On 12/2/2022 at 9:23 AM, mvdveer said:

Good site- thanks for sharing. The printed parts has just highlighted that I still have a way to go to get my print quality improved. Sure you will enjoy the build. Looking forward to following your progress.

My thought exactly, wow, these parts look amazing!! If any slicer profile is shared, im interested! 

[Buurman]

Extreme detailed building log, I love it!! dont know how I missed u till now, but really nice!!! thanks!

[Buurman]

I have to ask... why the Octoprint interface choice?

[Pradit]

41 minutes ago, Buurman said:

I have to ask... why the Octoprint interface choice?

I am new to the 3d printing Voron hype especially.

So youtube and google all recommend octoprint is the way to go.

That's all. Same go with octopus pro I google top mcu for 3d printer and it show octopus.

[claudermilk]

Great, extremely detailed build log!

I was wondering on OctoPrint, too. For Voron--at least what I've seen--KlipperScreen is preferred. I run Octoprint for my Prusa Mini and it's nice, but I prefer Klipper + Mainsail/Fluidd and KlipperScreen over Octoprint.

I concur with Octopus though. I have a V1.1 in my Trident and it's worked flawlessly since install.

[smirk]

I've a similar view, I've used Octoprint in the past and enjoyed it. To be fair I never got into the whole ecosystem of mods for it so I never had an "investment" in the technology stack. I do much prefer klipper+mainsail, which does all I need of it. For me , one dis-benefit of Octoprint is the larger foot-print (it's needs a full web-server to run). Perhaps that's a consideration these days given the scarcity of bigger PI's and a lot of the alternates being smaller 1GB or less models. There again, perhaps, that's just me. Small is beautiful as far as I'm concerned.

Having said all that, Octopint will do an absolute stonking job and it's certainly not a wrong choice.

[Pradit]

As i said most of my initial research on October 2022 octoprint all over the place.

i wish i did more research to discover mainsail which seem to be lightweight. 
coz as of now my octoprint just a bare-bones without any plugin for me to be able to run faster. I deactivated all plugins.

[Pradit]

Now I know how it feel when it start 1st print...
 

Like in the delivery room with my wife...

I'll update the detail later. 

Just need to watch...