My 1st Voron 2.4 R2 350 self source

[Pradit]

I kept slicing with Ellis's profile.

Adjust some add some and print.

My Voron decided to produce me a piece of art....

 

I'll use it anyway. Just to remind me. I'll put it in the back anyway.

 

 

 

 

Edited March 3, 2023 by Pradit

[Pradit]

Why not print Temp tower!!

 

Yeah 215 for this PLA is the sweet spot.

 

https://youtu.be/8YDFvU10ZBg

 

 

I discovered that SSlicer has calibration tools. 

1st layer calibrate.

Pretty nice and I finally get it.

 

Flow calibrate yeah baby. So far so good.

Bridging.... bloody hell.... (I'm still using Ellis's profile blindly..)

 

Ironing I don't get it...

Edited February 7, 2023 by Pradit

[Pradit]

I went back to used default profile from SS.

Then ran this bridging test again.

Damn... everything perfect. 

Yet another belt tension tool. I think it's good test print and useful.

It turn out perfect.

 

1st layer test squish test, I still don't get it. (lower z, higher z stuff)

But finally I got it perfect I think!?!

Go and check another PA.

 

So the default profile may slower than Ellis's profile I blindly use only 10%.

I'll keep tuning following Ellis but with this default profile.

[Pradit]

# Input Shaper

I tried input shaper with my EBB36 building ADXL but failed.

The MCU shutdown time too close at 130 hz.

So I knew it might be a problem. I had this ready.

The portable input shaper.

I didn't how to use it.

I again flash the board and later found this https://github.com/FYSETC/FYSETC-PortableInputShaper

 

I ran the test and again MCU shutdown at 110 hz. 

Even lower than my EBB36.

I decided to changed the config to test max at 90 hz.

Then save the result.

Hahah and it didn't save. (Thats another issue on my klipper/octoprint.)

So I research and found how to put those result into my printer.cfg.

I don't know I move on... hahhaha.

 

 

BTW, at the end I thought I could just remove the usb out of my RPI

right away without turning it off first. I was wrong. The RPI crashed and gotta reboot.

Edited December 26, 2022 by Pradit

[Pradit]

Shyte!!!

Turning upside down, tuning belt, picking belt, shaking toolhead and many things.

Suddenly this one fell on the desk.... M3x8 bolt!!!

I couldn't find where it came from....

Edited December 27, 2022 by Pradit

[smirk]

I understand the frustration. There are definitely times when it appears nothing works, or things randomly stop working when they had been reliable. It happens to us all, and it can be really tempting to skip something/give up/bodge something.

It is also really difficult if you're relying on the machine you are working on to produce parts that it needs itself.

It is perhaps the way I am reading your updates (you are a prolific diarist , that's a compilment BTW) but it seems you are jumping from one thing to another (as I say I understand the frustration and sometimes it is good to walk away from things for a while) but the key is to focus on one thing at a time and get that to a "good enough" point. There's no point seeking perfection. 3D Printing requires a lot of patience and focus, there's not really any short-cuts.

The Ellis tuning guide has a very particular order to activities (extruder calibration, first layer "squish", pressure advance and Extrusion multiplier). Racing ahead in that order will just create new challenges and inconsistent results.

Having said that (and I'm sure one of the members who has built a 2.4 will have a better advice then I) getting your gantry de-racked and the betls to similar tensions (consistency is key) comes before any of the print tuning.

Nero3D has several good videos on de-racking the gantry (this is just one of the videos).

 

In my opinion,I would say that trying to use the "musical note" method of tightening belts is a nonsense (I know plenty of people and sites swear by it). A 3D printer is not a musical instrutment, there are a million things that will get in the way and stop the belt resonating which will not affect the tension of the belt. A guitar on the other hand has absolutely been built to allow the strings to freely vibrate.

Using the printed belt deflection tension tool is the best way to go to get consistent tension between the belts.

 

 

 

 

 

[Pradit]

# Default Voron Profile

Since I decided back to use default profile for voron in SSlicer.

Quality perfect for me then I go ahead with that for now.

But earlier I took deracking once again with Ellis's guide.

Finished it then re-tension the belt.

QGL is now very very good tolerance 0.0036.

Now I had more confidence  even though it might not print that fast.

I went ahead printing the rest of my build part then. After finishing then I'll come back to 

tuning once again.

Here is one of the skirt.

 

Edited March 3, 2023 by Pradit

[claudermilk]

Those last parts look a lot better. I'll give the same input as @smirk. First get the belts tensioned (now that you have a good gauge that will be easier), then the gantry deracked. From there, follow Ellis' guide in order and get each step resolved before moving on. If you jump around, you will be chasing a moving target as you found.

Pick one filament to work with on that, and start with the generic profile. After you have one dialed in you can work on tweaks for the others.

[Pradit]

Note to self, Never QGL while bed warmer than room temp!!!

[claudermilk]

Hot bed QGL shouldn't be a problem, just let is heat soak for a while before doing it. That's where you get values increasing error.

[Pradit]

Nothing to update just wanna say happy new year.

Wish everyone have a wonderful build next year.

We all survived another to-be apocalypse...

Edited December 31, 2022 by Pradit

[smirk]

Happy New Year to you - the clock is still ticking down here in Scotland, so the appocalypse may still start here

[Pradit]

1 minute ago, smirk said:

Happy New Year to you - the clock is still ticking down here in Scotland, so the appocalypse may still start here

I ll go ahead into the future in 2023 and I ll be back!! 

To let u guys in 2022 know that its still ok in 2023.

[Pradit]

I tried to print multiple part at once.

I only select number of object that print time within 6 hours or less.

These skirt took 6 hrs+. They came out good for me. I wonder what is

average printing time for anyone?

[Pradit]

Here is my DIY USB cable with 20 AWG wire which hoping undervoltage warning in RPI will go away.

It turn out it had less warning than before.

It still warn at the booth time and few times during load web page or some sort.

I'm still connected via wahoo connector though. I'm not sure that would be the case.

But I leave it for the time being.

[Pradit]

This set I also have 6 hrs + printing time. I'm not sure is this common time for printing or not.

1st layer squish good and it turn out good.

However, what I learned was every morning or 1st thing I should do for the day when turn on the printer.

I should g32 and couple of QGL and g28 then start with 1 object of superslicer 1st layer calibrate print.

If the 1st print turn out good, it will be good entire day.

If it's not then clear bed mesh and couple of QGL and try again.

That's how I did and it's working for me. Honestly I don't know why and what the reason though.

Sometime the squish was off without doing anything.

[Pradit]

This set also took me 6 hrs +.

I'm really curious about it.

 

That's all the skirt parts with fan installed. I included my bad center back print too.

[Pradit]

These are PI TFT50 mount.

The ribbon cable pass through the provided hole was too tight and bend the cable.

It cause the TFT unable to turn on.

So I had to cut it wide open to allow room for the cable.

Edited January 9, 2023 by Pradit

[Pradit]

I still have to find the solution for the exhaust to allow me to print ABS safely.

I don't want the VOC in the room. This I print the stock first.

[Pradit]

Clips and Latch. I think the latch is a genius design. 

I tried to do the same way as the heat set insert with the magnet. See if its work.

Edited March 3, 2023 by Pradit

[Pradit]

SSD mount. I bought the SATA connector so I could take the SSD out of my old enclosure.

And mount it to the rail.

 

It couldn't boot. The LED light on the connector was on, RPI only red LED.

It seem couldn't see the HDD. I don't know why.

So I went back to the old enclosure and hack it with the tape.

 

Here is RPI mount. Its time for RPI sits on the rail... finally.

Edited January 9, 2023 by Pradit

[Pradit]

Tidy up some wire. As good as it get.

Put skirt on.

[Pradit]

I used 1mm tape on the side panel without knowing that it needs 3mm.

 

So the belt had no room with the side panel. I didn't order 3 mm at the time.

Then I apply 2 more on top to make it 3mm.

I had to reprint the latch with the 6mm version as well.

 

Edited January 9, 2023 by Pradit

[Pradit]

 

After I put together skirts, re-cable and wire, panel and stuff.

The printer behaves strangely. I also had some octoprint plugins enabled too though.

ie: Arc welder, thermal runaway, better graph, better time lapse, etc.

Just to test the boot time that I had a problem with before. And this time only activate them one by one.

Just to see if it didn't affect the boot time.

 

1. The print couldn't finish. It prints a few min and stops and moves away just a little mm and hold.

Then klipper alert error like too many requests or something.

I had been scratching my head for hours til I realized it may be the timelapse that caused it. 

So I turned it off and now it can finish printing the 1st layer calibration.

 

2. MCU shutdown M112. What ta heck...

While I'm trying to fix the 1st layer issue after I solve the above so I can finish the print.

Klipper just shut down randomly...

Another long scratching head..... 

Til I turned off the thermal runaway. 

Coz during the fixing I have a filament extrude issue. I have to run heat the hotend to test.

Or run QGL, etc.. But it keeps shutting down.

 

3. Purge bucket won't purge instead retract the filament out of the toolhead.

I have been printing all the skirts and everything was fine before.

With my print_start that includes the purge line then prime then actual print.

It works perfectly until this.

So I don't wanna scratch more of my head getting bald. I just comment on the purge bucket for now.

Keep only prime.

 

4. Nozzle clog.

While investigating what happened with the above (3) issue I thought something wrong with the CW2 extrusion.

So I tried many ways to prove it. Manually push the filament, with the heat on, adjust the gear, etc...

I don't know what I've done it clogs the nozzle.

I realize this when I used the needle to push through the hole while hot for a long time till I got the big clog off.

It's just like your ear wax hahaha.

 

After all this mess I decided to take this opportunity to move my bed forward 5mm.

So my Z endstop and brush could move forward a bit. This gave me peace of mind when Z home or brushed the nozzle.

Previously it was just too close to the edge of sexbolt.

Redo the sensorless homing XY once again to make sure nothing is off.

Now I think I need to relax and had some fun.

 

So I decided to go for Benchy!!!

 

 

 

 

My 1st try with normal temp I use with normal speed. It failed.

Then try 225C I thought It was very fast moving already. But it is still 36 min including heating time.

The print quality was not very good. I really admire those under 10mins and produce better quality.

 

 

 

My last try for the day at 265C and crank some speed and acceleration.

And had everything heated up and ready before print.  25+ min.

Hahaha that's fun and my daughter has more toys to play. She was also happy.

 

Edited January 9, 2023 by Pradit

[Pradit]

OK Mate!!! 

Lets call it done!!!

My 1st Voron 2.4 R2.

Otherwise, it'd never be done. It could just keep adding and upgrading...

 

I think I had more tools than the actual Voron's parts.