Voron 2.4r2 350mm build - Formbot kit - and yes - MODS galore

[atrushing]

7 hours ago, smirk said:

Did the child survive?

Just by the skin of his teeth!

Really, I couldn't complain too much. They love playing in the basement while I work. This just gives me a good reason to do some upgrades/mods and enclose the printer. I guess his punishment should be that he has to help rebuilding it.

[smirk]

1 hour ago, atrushing said:

They love playing in the basement while I work.

You clearly have better concentration than me. How many times have the children told teachers/random strangers - "Daddy keeps us in the basement.....and shouts 'stop making so much noise"

[mvdveer]

Build Manual page 22 - 47 : Z-Drives

Mods: Rock n Roll, Panzer Feet

Managed to build the Z-Drives and mount onto the frame. If you are doing the Rock n Roll mod, then you need to print the accent parts that mount to the Z-Drives as a support for this mod. Doing the Panzerball/Squash ball feet mod as well led to some issues. As the panzerball mod eliminates the accent part on the drives and the Rock and Roll mod requires the modified version with supports, I'll have to design and print two spacers for the front.

[mvdveer]

Build Manual Page 48-50 Z Idlers - Pins Mod

Pretty straightforward build here - replaced the M5x30 BHSC with 30mm 5mm pins.

 

Next Print Bed

[mvdveer]

Build Manual Pages 52 - 61  Print Bed

Mods: Ellis Bed Fans, Nevermore Filter

Finished the print bed, nevermore mod and Ellis bed fans. Have not gone with the wago connections for the print bed in the chamber as I am planning to attach these in the electronics compartment. Reading the manual, you tend to find things you can't remember doing on the first build. Like - DO NOT TIGHTEN ALL THE BED SCREWS! Only tighten one and leave the others for thermal expansion. Went to check V2.4008 - all four bed screws are tightened. Promptly loosened three of these. Lesson learned - READ THE MANUAL _AGAIN and AGAIN!!!

 

 

 

Next: AB Drives and Idlers

[Buurman]

Love the way it looks, and nevermore AND Eliis fans... nice!!

What coal/carbon do you use in there? I always have the feeling it cant do much since the coal goes to the bottom (that's how gravity works.. ssh) and the airflow will mostly just go OVER the coal I feel...

Thats what I like about the filter inside the exhaust, it also falls down, but thats how the air also needs to go...

PS. I always make a new hole behind the nevermore, for me this end up in one of the two cable ducts underneath anyhow, so very clean..

But.. printer looks great so far!!

[Buurman]

5 hours ago, mvdveer said:

Mods: Rock n Roll

Whats the Rock and Roll?

 

Ah found it.... hmmmm... quite useful for a continues modder...  

[Penatr8tor]

Yup, Looking really sweet! It's gonna be a really nice build.

[mvdveer]

12 hours ago, Buurman said:

What coal/carbon do you use in there?

Little pellets, quite nice to use - very little dust. Bought from here

[mvdveer]

Build Manual pages 62 - 81 AB Drives and Idlers

Mods: Pin Mod, Ramalama Front Idlers

No major hassles here and not much that can go wrong if you take your time and go slowly.

 

Next - Gantry

[mvdveer]

Build Manual Pages 82 - 123 Gantry

Literally hung the gantry.

Build and assembled the gantry. Z-Belts done. Had a hell of a time squaring the gantry - seemed to have a catch in the movement as if something was bent - most likely out of square.

But persistence paid of and movement of the gantry is smooth. Will square again before belts go on.

[atrushing]

2 hours ago, mvdveer said:

Literally hung the gantry.

Is that the Spider Web mod then?

[smirk]

Looking really,really good. I'm loving the detail, but I do have to say....

7 hours ago, mvdveer said:

not much that can go wrong

Sssh! Don't tempt fate!

[mvdveer]

Well now for choices: - got to build the stealthburner.

1.

2.

3. 

 

 

I think I have made my choice - the rest of you folk, will just have to wait and see.

 

 

[Buurman]

All white or the last one I think, like the white silver.. very starwars like  

[Buurman]

18 hours ago, mvdveer said:

take your time and go slowly

What?? slowly? how do you do that with a Voron??

[mvdveer]

Stuck on the extruder and toolhead and have not found a solution to the problem. Using the SB2040 Canbus board again. This board is modelled on the HArtk123 itoolboard with Stealthburner internal fan toolboard. The fans and leds are soldered onto the SB internal toolboard and this then plugs into the SB2040/Hartk123 board. Makes for easy removal of the Toolhead.

 

There is NO way this is going to happen with the Orbiter 2 extruder due to the tension screw getting in the way.

The LGX Mini does not allow this either as it is too wide.

Will have to try the LGX, else it is back to the trustworthy CW2

 

[atrushing]

13 minutes ago, mvdveer said:

There is NO way this is going to happen with the Orbiter 2 extruder due to the tension screw.

The LGX Mini board does not allow this either.

You know that I like crazy ideas right?

Have you looked at the Micro Sherpa? It is very small and easy to print mirrored so that the tension screw is on the other side.

It almost fits into the same footprint as the Orbiter 2.0. The mounting holes are even very close together..

[mvdveer]

25 minutes ago, atrushing said:

You know that I like crazy ideas right?

Not crazy at all - have already printed the parts for the mini sherpa, will have to do a mirrord version then

[atrushing]

8 hours ago, mvdveer said:

Not crazy at all - have already printed the parts for the mini sherpa, will have to do a mirrord version then

I was looking into how feasible this idea was and it turns out that there is at least a 2mm interference with the Micro Sherpa and the 5015 blower. The Orbiter 2.0 works because they made the drive gears 4mm shorter than on the 1.5 which has the same length gears as the standard Bondtech gears. I really wish there was a supplier that could provide the smaller Bondtech gears but shorter..

[mvdveer]

38 minutes ago, atrushing said:

was looking into how feasible this idea was and it turns out that there is at least a 2mm interference with the Micro Sherpa and the 5015 blower.

Thanks for looking into this - much appreciated. Still scratching my head. Seems I'll go with the CW2 which I know works so I can continue the build, then come back to this problem at a later stage.

[mvdveer]

Had to reprint the the tool head due to an issue with the filament I am using.Why can’t things just go right?

 

[mvdveer]

Build Manual Pages 123 - 145 Belts

Mods: Nero3D idler bearing stack

The belts in the formbot kit were pre-cut and a generous length of each supplied. On close inspection these seem to be genuine Gates 2 belts.

Squareness of gantry confirmed and belts tensioned with the trusty Belt tensionometers (printed in PETG). Be sure to use the 9mm one for Z-Belts and 6mm for X/Y belts.

[mvdveer]

Build Manual pages 146 - 175 After burner

Skipped ---> Stealthburner Manual pages 8-67

Mods: Mellow Fly SB2040 CanBus Board

ABANDONED for now - Orbitor2, LGX Mini

Was going to try and mount either the Orbiter 2 or LGX mini, but unfortunately they do not play well with the Mellow Fly SB2040 PCB.  Wasted a lot of time looking for solutions. Had to chooses between forging ahead with the canbus or alternate extruder. 

Thus reverted to the Clockwork 2 for now as this is what is fitted on the Trident and works very well (so far)

Got some crimping to do - my favorite - NOT. Though getting better at it.

 

Next up - Electronics

 

[mvdveer]

ELECTRONICS PRE_PREPARATION:

Back to the workbench to install CanBoot on the Octopus Pro v1.1 and the Mellow Fly SB2040 Canbus PCB.

Had a bit of trepidation at the onset due to the struggles the previous build (Trident)

Opened up instructions I followed previously and started the process. 45min later all was done. Canboot installed. Klipper flashed onto Octopus Board and Mellow Fly flashed over canboot. Mainsail fired up and whala - there were the MCU's of the Octopus board and the Mellow Fly.

Reason was, I remembered where I got stuck before. In the instructions, when you get to the part that is highlighted Klipper for SB 2040,  before you move on

 

make sure that:

1. The USB cable between the pi and SB2040 is removed

2. Make sure the SB2040 board is powered by 24V

3. Ensure the data lines (high and low) are connected to the octopus

4. Ensure the Octopus is connected via USB to the Pi and powered on

5. Then, and then only proceed with the instructions shown.

Hope this may be of use to someone