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Voron 2.4r2 350mm build - Formbot kit - and yes - MODS galore


mvdveer

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13 hours ago, Buurman said:

@mvdveer open to other ideas? 

https://www.printables.com/model/225153-voron-stealthburner-face

I like it, gonna try it, glitter version...

I am sorry that I have to break the bad news to you, but this means that you will have to rebuild your Mini Stealth Mini Sherpa... 😉

20230217_120306.thumb.jpg.1725090e52032bcbd851dd4a9e889bce.jpg

Hex_Pattern_0.4mm_thick.stl Hex_Pattern_0.2mm_thick.stl

  • Voron FTW! 3
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8 minutes ago, Buurman said:

hahahaahaha! you cannot have created that and printed that just now.

I had already been working on it when I saw your post. This should work for any of the Mini Stealth shrouds. You just need to merge and use the 'negative body' feature in Prusa Slicer.

I tried the 0.4mm thick version but you can see that the orange doesn't squeeze into the small gaps very well. I will print another one where the second accent layer is inset so there is more clearance for the nozzle. Plus I need to work on my first layer squish, I didn't notice it until I saw the pic on the computer though..

I'll be looking forward to your glitter black version!

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22 hours ago, smirk said:

That's a very important point @claudermilk should we be concerned by the number of Voron @mvdveer is building? Guess as long as he doesn't use the self-replication mod then we'll be safe.

I'm beginning to suspect @mvdveer IS the self-replication mod and is under the control of his army of printers now.

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1 hour ago, Buurman said:

to test colors for my next “dark knight

Must say - looking good in those colors - I think it is dependent on the colors. Will have to give it a go to see what it looks like

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2 hours ago, Buurman said:

“dark knight”

How come we think along the same lines. Not a "dark night" but but a "Stormtrooper" on the way in this build. Once both are finished be good to have two pictures side by side. But mine may be a while

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13 hours ago, mvdveer said:

Here is my colorscheme and thaks to @Penatr8tor for helping me decide.

IMG_3869.thumb.jpeg.e7d288f7b2241400009c9994fe7dc6f0.jpegimage.thumb.png.a507b09916787e594fe0b8fff9f57e08.png

More white needed 😛 but you will get that anyway, but, seeing white skirt on other builds, I think im gonna go 80% white also one day.... 

 

Something like this looks pretty cool...

https://www.printables.com/model/246666-skirt-voron-24-vorn/related

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13 hours ago, mvdveer said:

Must say - looking good in those colors - I think it is dependent on the colors. Will have to give it a go to see what it looks like

in black white it will look awesome... I think... or White black I think in your case, anyhoe... awesome...

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1 hour ago, Buurman said:

More white needed

Only thing it gets dirty. Printing black skirts at the moment - let's see how it turns out. Busy printing the stealthburner hex pattern

 

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1 hour ago, mvdveer said:

Here is the link and complete video on how to print this.

Thanks, I see now but questions have arisen as a result LOL.

So I get it... print the hexagons, then print the main body over it. But what about this like adaptive meshing? The first one will print great... then I guess I would have to somehow disable the adaptive meshing and just use the default bed mesh without probing for the main body. Is that how you did it?

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21 minutes ago, Penatr8tor said:

Is that how you did it?

Did a few trials - what I ended up doing is moving the print slightly off centre in the slicer as you still have to home the printer. I commented out Z-Tilt/QGL and bed mesh calibration for the second print and then started the print.

A user commented on the print suggesting another way which I have not tried but makes a lot of sense.

Quote

https://media.printables.com/media/auth/avatars/69/thumbs/cover/40x40/jpg/69af52f2-851c-4b00-b917-1fd7e425f7d2.webp14

 

Thank you for this idea. I've taken it one step further with very good results.

1. Open both exported gcode files in a text editor.

2. Remove everything from ";TYPE:Custom ; Filament-specific end gcode" in the 1st file.

3. Remove everything up to "; Filament gcode M107, ;LAYER_CHANGE" in the 2nd file.

4. Add your color change gcode the end of the 1st file

5. Paste the 2nd file after that and save.

Works for me.

Thanks again for sharing. (edited)

 

Don't follow the video in the makes and comments section - it takes you to junk!

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@mvdveer Cool, I will try editing the g-code as described. That will allow me to insert a pause in the g-code where I can them swap filaments instead of doing two prints on top of one another. I'll test it on my V-Minion with PLA and see how it goes. Once I like the results I'll heat up the chamber on the 2.4 and go full ASA.

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10 hours ago, mvdveer said:

Did a few trials - what I ended up doing is moving the print slightly off centre in the slicer as you still have to home the printer. I commented out Z-Tilt/QGL and bed mesh calibration for the second print and then started the print.

Exactly the same here, its just two seperate prints and since you want to be able to run a G28 without touching the hex print, you move it slightly off center indeed.
I didnt want to glother your post, but I guess its too late for that anyhow...

Did the "The Rush mini" also, but need to make it with 2 layers at least also, one layer isnt enough.

The pattern on top needs to be slightly smaller/slimmer also, I think...

 

20230222_081436645_iOS.jpg

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Printed the black on white though some black ran into the white. Will have to figure out how to correct this. Plate was cleaned with alcohol as usual. Maybe time for some soap and hot water.

Or have a longer purge between color swaps

IMG_3870.thumb.jpeg.42a166ced9bbafb0c892b9c3c8f94f93.jpeg

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