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Voron 2.4R2 350 build diary...maybe :)


cobretti
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Hi All,

I was encouraged to do a build diary but straight off the bat I am not a document type guy lol 🙃 . Long story short I was off work for the Christmas holiday period and somehow ended up getting drawn into the Voron world. After watching a few too many youtube videos I decided to jump in at the deep end and started placing orders. Did not opt for a full kit as I wanted some control over what went into the system if I was going to spend this much on yet another "hobby" 😉

The parts have started trickling in but due to the order they are arriving I think I may have to wait till its all here to see some real progress. This may end up being a slow build depending on some order delays and how much I can stretch a day.  I could not help myself though and started the basic frame ensuring it is all square. Since the rails were also in that order I cleaned them up with 91% IA (what I had at this time) and greased them. I used a grease which was readily available and closely matched the spec for Mobilux EP2 but since I do not really know the consistency(fluidity?) of the Mobilux EP2 this one has the carriage sliding down from top in lets say 2-3 secs. I compared this to a rail I have from a system I tried to build a few years ago and had never cleaned. That carriage drops almost instantly if I flip it vertically. So my question would be with the new ones greased up what kind of movement am I aiming for? Instant drop like the old rail or a consistent slide down the rail?

Thanks and hopefully I can keep this thread updated with my progress...will post some parts that have arrived.

 

frame.jpg

railbath.jpg

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Posted (edited)

Parts that have arrived so far:

Wiring kit - though this is for an Octopus and I got the Manta M8P so may need a few modifications not sure.

wire-kit.jpg.4d1c9aeb34549c45360cb91a414da2d2.jpg

 

Motion kit - In hindsight I should have gone with the black 🥲

motion-kit.thumb.jpg.acc4ae1bb4761d4915431dbb26aba16e.jpg

Fasteners kit - sorted into this.

fasteners.thumb.jpg.96adbbe00fcb321915a5432fed6713d1.jpg

 

Essentials only - purchased from Voron discord member who decided to go with another colour scheme.

essentials.jpg.747ca974066eaa113b183900d421aefd.jpg

 

LDO motors kit, PSU's, single chain as I plan to go umbilical, some of the fans arrived.

electrical-motors.thumb.jpg.9b1722ddae865630fa5564e97259ee70.jpg

All bought in one shot direct from biqu - came way quicker than expected. Manta M8P, CB1, EZ drivers  - I hope these are ok - did not research much 😞 . Also got the CB1 adapter in case I things don't go as planned and I have to use my old in-use PI3. This M8P though that they sent appears to be the latest revision( 2 weeks ago they posted updated docs to include it) which now has CAN onboard and some other feature. I hope I can get it working as I tried searching for others with this v1.1 variation but no luck.

btt-kit.thumb.jpg.acda033dca4e9bff937b96e41e09f3a7.jpg

 

I think that's it for now. Still waiting on all build plate components, extruder, hotend (rapido), screen, panels and TAP 😬

 

 

Edited by cobretti
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2 hours ago, cobretti said:

This may end up being a slow build depending on some order delays and how much I can stretch a day.

Don't worry about that, I'm in a similar position with my V0 rebuild, got as far as I can and now need to wait. Personally I think it's one of the advantages of the build diary process, it's a good way to keep track on what's arrived, what you've done and why 🙂 Nothing wrong with slow and steady, it gets there in the end!
 

2 hours ago, cobretti said:

So my question would be with the new ones greased up what kind of movement am I aiming for?

Two words "consistently smooth". I don't necessarily think "how fast the rail moves" is a good (objective) measure, there are a number of factors which will affect how fast it falls with gravity including the preload on the carriage and the viscosity of any lubrication. The most important thing for the rail is that the carriage moves consistently and smoothly along the entire length of the rail. I'm talking about touch - how does it feel how you manually slide the carriage up and down the rail? There should not be any spots where it feels like it's catching or the amount of effort needed to move the carriage increases. The "how does it feel?" method isn't objective either 🤪 but gives you a better idea on the "quality" of the rail.

The Vorondesign team are pragmatic about rails and recognise things are imperfect so they advise to "grade" them. Keep the best rail for "X" (carrying the print head directly), the next best for the "Y" rails and the least best for the Z-rails (where basically gravity and the weight of the grantry/bed/whatever) will help overcome any sticky bits.....well they certainly do for the V0

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I also meant to say I like your methodical approach to organising things (like the fasteners).

2 hours ago, cobretti said:

Also got the CB1 adapter in case I things don't go as planned

I did the same when I got a couple of Mantas. I am sure they will be absolutely fine, @atrushing is using a Manta 4P over on his lovely Ratrig build.

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Heatset insert tool came today and it works very well. 

heatinserts.jpg.c5b94282c2f1cb1173dd219783cf60cd.jpg

 

Not much else I can do since I am doing the front idlers mod and those parts are not here yet so just assembled these in the meantime.

ab-motors.thumb.jpg.c657fe63fa96a7d66c8a3a24964b737d.jpg

 

Also note the bottom base is just a temporary cardstock piece. Awaiting the panels as noted.

image.thumb.jpeg.723cfdd5a46c75f633294119f36b6a2f.jpeg

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  • 2 weeks later...

So I have been a bit busy as a few parts came in last week and I got too impatient since I just wanted to see things in action 😁

Still waiting for build plate parts to do a final fit. Some early hours of the morning work meant alignment issues will arise 🧐

Had a frustrating issue with this Manta M8P board. On one hand I did not read carefully enough and on the other the manual wasn't exactly clear. I could not get my motors to move at all and wasted 2 nights trying steppers on different boards/different steppers/new klipper installs/multiple firmware rebuilds. I asked a question in discord on Klipper-BTT channel and someone noted the chinese manual differs a little from the translated english manual and I need to additionally set a jumper for each motor to indicate board power in use. It wasn't enough to just bridge the board power to motor power inputs as I did with my former SKR Pro board.

electrical.thumb.jpg.6ea43428e0fa693e046ab94fa7a905e6.jpg

After getting that resolved I next moved onto setting up the EBB36 board to use CAN on the Manta M8P board. Surprisingly this went smoothly. More time was spent reprinting SB housing to fit all of this. As you can see one more reprint will be required for rear door as I made a cutout after the fact. So the CW2 here uses the 2209 on the EBB36. Part and cooling fans connected and RGB for SB leds as well as Rapido using PT1000. The heatup speed of this hotend is crazy. The CAN wire I bought is too short so will need to replace.  The TAP I connected to the probe port using 5V. I am aware of the 24V issues so sticking with 5V.  

ebb36.thumb.jpg.0ba19995764a50b57c70c714151568fe.jpg

I bought this X lightweight bar and it arrived way faster than I expected so I switched that out too.

xlite.thumb.jpg.d02dbca7038734ae8fe77f67731a74d4.jpg

My next task was the TAP install and here as well ran into issue (almost destroying the SB housing). The TAP pcb board was not working as expected and after using an old ramps type optical sensor board in its place TAP worked. I checked TAP discord channel and while asking for assistance there noted upon closer inspection that some solder joints looked half done. I re-soldered those and the pcb started working. I have to be sure it works consistently though because if I actually had a bed yet it would have completely taken that SB out. I was very slow to respond to powering it off the last time so must watch that carefully.

image.jpeg.876f73109580cb52f79e2c9bd263f070.jpeg

I received notification tonight my MIC-6 build plate is ready for pickup but it will still have to go for milling of the required holes. Also the flex/pei plate I purchased has been delayed for 2 weeks already(4-6 days was the ETA when I ordered) 😞

Next on list is to move the X (toolhead) and Y(rear of gantry)  endstops since the kit I ordered was the all-in-one PCB and with the CAN I don't want to run any wiring along the Y axis.

Have a great weekend all!

Edit: one more pic of build stage

image.jpeg.7dbe58d2dc6dedb96526c059cc821785.jpeg

Edited by cobretti
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Coming along nicely. I have also decided on doing an umbilical mod on the Trident with SB2040 canbus board. Just finished printing the required parts. This involves relocation of the X-Stop to the toolhead and the Y-Stop to the A motor. Also printed an umbilical mount for the canbus board. 

If you are interested - here are the links to what I found:

https://www.printables.com/model/366499-voron-24-canbus-umbilical/files (Used this one)

https://www.printables.com/model/363657-voron-v24-trident-rear-umbilical/collections (Used this one)

https://www.printables.com/model/235931-voron-trident-a-drive-cable-cover-with-pg7-cable-g

https://www.printables.com/model/326623-voron-trident-wire-cover-w-pg7-cable-gland-adapter/files

https://www.printables.com/model/253910-voron-umbilical-bracket

https://www.printables.com/model/233008-voron-stealthburner-umbilical-cable-gland-mount

Will post pictures in my build diary here when I have completed the wiring section in the manual

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I managed to relocate X and Y endstops and using the EBB36 board successfully with ADXL onboard working too - never used that before so not sure what the graph is actually showing me 🙃. Build plate is delayed again so a cutting board is doing the job while testing QGL which actually gives me a result.

However after all that work on ebb36 an impulse buy occurred and today the new BTT SB toolhead board came in (quite fast from BIQU despite the holiday there) which includes CAN cable - I don't think Klipper has actually merged the requested changes for this board yet. It uses the TMC2240 chip. Will see how it goes. I plan on using the spare parts I have to build a type of switchwire clone if this build goes well. Also ordered their SPI TFT35 screen as the PITFT50 originally ordered was taking too long to fulfill so canceled that.

SB2240.thumb.jpg.860d56f889a3e8be50eaddf6ee63e16c.jpgSB2240-pcb.thumb.jpg.cba306ab7928ea39ab48ba0e17240363.jpgimage.thumb.jpeg.261da6dd70c8cf6cdb33a9edc44122f2.jpeg

 

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On 1/25/2023 at 6:21 PM, cobretti said:

impulse buy occurred and today the new BTT SB toolhead

I too was lured by their marketing e-mail and bought one as well (I wasn't feeling brave so went for the 2209 driver version). It'll be interesting to see how you get on with it.

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I received part of my build-plate today - will pick up a fluted end mill bit tomorrow to try and do a "pro" job with the holes 😨. Unfortunately the local vendor I tried to support with my flex kit purchase just did not deliver and I cancelled the order this morning(ordered on 9th and ETA kept moving). In comparison the parts I posted yesterday I ordered from Biqu China warehouse on the 14th. Since I am now eager to get to printing state, purchased a kit from Amazon which is already on its way (hope the quality will be ok).

 image.thumb.jpeg.e892200a0e1cc093e199e3480adc02e8.jpeg

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I meant to ask - sometimes after I home the z motors start "buzzing"? I can feel the vibration in them and if I do another home then they are fine again. Is this something I should investigate further - it seems to be random. 

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6 hours ago, cobretti said:

I meant to ask - sometimes after I home the z motors start "buzzing"? I can feel the vibration in them and if I do another home then they are fine again. Is this something I should investigate further - it seems to be random. 

You can try turning on stealthmode on them (999999) I havent seen it doing anything to quality, and Z is small moves... 

They hold power to not drop your gantry, and sometimes it can cause buzzing, you can experiment with currents also, the hold_current setting doesnt work anymore, in case you read about that somewhere.

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Drilled and tapped the holes last night and applied heating pad.

heatbed.jpg.0d35d2dd93e5fc8c6817922b63257665.jpg

Got the electrical ordered as best I could. I realized with the raceways I placed them to close to the edges but will leave as is for now unless it really hinders me.

electrical-final.jpg.53b2a96e77fbefc1c70020e090a8c58f.jpg

This Amazon bought plate is really thin so may end up having to replace it pretty soon.

bedplate.jpg.df5ee58a88858473ea9c66d1da3f1414.jpg

While doing the electrical I went ahead and removed the EBB36 and installed the new SB2240. I needed major patience with these 1.25ph connectors. I have short stubby fingers and those tiny crimps were really testing me 😂. Used the uncommitted branch from BTT github for the 2240 and it seems to work for the most part.

sbb2240-installed.jpg.b6285d323f07ce68f7c3a326523ae105.jpg

 

Need to clean up umbilical cord - the BIQU manual for the SB2240 notes using a flexible wire between the 2 endpoints(toolhead and rear gantry)
sbb2240.thumb.jpg.6f2330b8f9141759b59e0d2d18328304.jpg

 

As I am still learning klipper running into a few snags since I went straight to mods. TAP "100 probe test" values at present though I am not sure if good or bad.

probe accuracy results: maximum -0.000000, minimum -0.007500, range 0.007500, average -0.001325, median -0.000000, standard deviation 0.001748

I think i have completed all prerequisite tests now but still can't get the first print going as after hitting test print TAP gcode is putting temp down to 150 and then print does not start. I assume I need to add something somewhere to tell it to go back to print temp after TAP probe.

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2 hours ago, cobretti said:

probe accuracy results: maximum -0.000000, minimum -0.007500, range 0.007500, average -0.001325, median -0.000000, standard deviation 0.001748

Cannot complain about that. Very good results!

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After getting the TAP and printing start sorted had a nightmare with the new Rapido hotend - first use and only a small amount of filament extruded then it immediately clogged. A few hours later managed to unclog it and found the heatsink hole to heat break was the issue. 

image.png.74e730cd20695845de2a0be094b3f2b6.png

It was very rough around the edges and was causing the filament to get stuck. I probably should have just returned it but yeah...i took a small drill bit too it. Managed to "ream" it though still not 100% smooth but at least allowing flow now. Not sure I trust it now.\

Anyway this is the first print I managed with PLA.

image.thumb.jpeg.da92f95e36bf2815a7000cbdef844ad5.jpeg

 

Another silly question. I have the stealthburner leds working only when I manually select the macro in mainsail. How do I have it automatically turn them on depending on what the toolhead is doing?

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58 minutes ago, cobretti said:

Another silly question. I have the stealthburner leds working only when I manually select the macro in mainsail. How do I have it automatically turn them on depending on what the toolhead is doing?

Adjust your PRINT_START macro to reflect the state of the LEDs e.g of my PRINT_START macro:

Note: Normally this macro will be named START_PRINT, doesn't matter what it is called as long as it corresponds to the GCode in the slicer that calls the macro

Quote

 

[gcode_macro PRINT_START]
gcode:
    STATUS_READY
    BED_MESH_CLEAR
    G90      #Absolute positioning
    STATUS_HOMING
    M117 Homing...
    G28
    STATUS_HEATING
    M117 Heating bed ......
    M140 S{params.BED_TEMP}
    M190 S{params.BED_TEMP}
    M109 S150
    M117 Leveling Gantry ........
    STATUS_LEVELING
    Z_TILT_ADJUST
    STATUS_MESHING
    BED_MESH_CALIBRATE
    G0 X125 Y125 Z20 F3600
    M117 Loading Mesh ........
    BED_MESH_PROFILE Load=default
    STATUS_HEATING
    M117 Heating Toolhead
    M104 S{params.TOOL_TEMP}
    M109 S{params.TOOL_TEMP}
    STATUS_CLEANING
#    G92 E0.0            #reset extruder distance position
#    G1 X10 Y10 Z0.3 F3000       #move to prime line position
#    G1 X60 E10.0 F1000  #intro line
#    G1 X180 E30 F500   # intro line
#    G92 E0.0      #reset extruder distance position
    M117 Purging ..........
    M117 Prime Line ..........
    ADAPTIVE_PURGE
    STATUS_READY
    G90
    M117 Starting Print .......
    STATUS_PRINTING

 

 

 

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Just now, mvdveer said:

Adjust your PRINT_START macro to reflect the state of the LEDs e.g of my PRINT_START macro:

Note: Normally this macro will be named START_PRINT, doesn't matter what it is called as long as it corresponds to the GCode in the slicer that calls the macro

Awesome thanks @mvdveer!

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14 minutes ago, Buurman said:

Thanks @Buurman that is the one I had that allowed me to do the manual setting - I apparently have a printer.cfg with some default values so not everything is set correctly yet - truly a learning experience 🙂

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