Let's try...... a Trident

[Wick]

49 minutes ago, mvdveer said:

Any suggestions to improve?

Don't know if I'm the one to give suggestions, I saw on lots of your parts that the Infill is not angled to the perimeters, when looking at your A/B Mounts on page 1 I guess that first layer is too high or underextruded and the top fill is overextruded, also you can see that few Perimeters didn't stay where they should be (Temp/cooling?)

I also went through Andrews tuning Guide and print with his PIF45 with slower speeds, I'm using a Rapido Plus with a Bondtech CHT BiMetal 0.4 printing with 105Bed and 255 Nozzle Temp for Esun ABS+, Elephant compensation 0.2. Filament extrusion length is calibrated for 30cm and not 10cm of measuring length passing the extruder without nozzle, so it should be precise.  I found out that I had to go down very far with Extrusion Multiplier (currently 0.91) to get good looking top layers.

here are my last printesd AB-Mounts for comparison (still far away from perfection....)

[mvdveer]

25 minutes ago, Wick said:

Don't know if I'm the one to give suggestions, I saw on lots of your parts that the Infill is not angled to the perimeters, when looking at your A/B Mounts on page 1 I guess that first layer is too high or underextruded and the top fill is overextruded, also you can see that few Perimeters didn't stay where they should be (Temp/cooling?)

All suggestions are welcome and appreciated. Will have a look at all you have mentioned. Thanks 

[claudermilk]

None of those parts look all that bad IMHO. Close up photos make them look worse than in person. It looks like @mvdveer may want a tiny bit of pressure advance tweaking. For the infill, I don't think the direction makes that much of a difference. For reference, I have my SS set to rotate the parts 45 degrees (per Andrew Ellis suggestion) and in Print Settings/Infill/Advanced my Angle settings are all 0. You can easily change that to try to rotate how it lays the lines.

[mvdveer]

5 hours ago, claudermilk said:

may want a tiny bit of pressure advance tweaking. For the infill, I don't think the direction makes that much of a difference. For reference, I have my SS set to rotate the parts 45 degrees (per Andrew Ellis suggestion) and in Print Settings/Infill/Advanced my Angle settings are all 0. You can easily change that to try to rotate how it lays the lines.

That's is my settings as well. Will tweak pressure advance a bit and redo first layer squish. Thanks for all your suggestions

[mvdveer]

Well, now that was interesting - setting up the Mellow Fly SB2040 with canboot and Klipper. Took me a while an lots and lots of reading - but it seems it is set up ok.

Doesn't look pretty though:

On with the build - Electronics

 

[smirk]

Nice setup, I am intrigue by your bowl of mixed "nuts"?

[mvdveer]

3 hours ago, smirk said:

Nice setup, I am intrigue by your bowl of mixed "nuts"?

It's called laziness... Have to organise it at some stage. You know - I grab a bolt/screw/nut and it is the wrong one - too lazy to put it back where it comes from - in the bowel it goes

[Stadi]

17 minutes ago, mvdveer said:

It's called laziness... Have to organise it at some stage. You know - I grab a bolt/screw/nut and it is the wrong one - too lazy to put it back where it comes from - in the bowel it goes

I know that, there is also a collection box on my workbench 

 

[mvdveer]

Build Manual Page 208 - 233: Electronics

Mod: Trident Inverted Electronics mount: (https://github.com/VoronDesign/VoronUsers/tree/master/printer_mods/LoganFraser/TridentInvertedElectronics)

The mountings for the inverted electronics are well designed and fitting these were uneventful. Because it lowers the placement of the electronics, I found that the rails needed adjustment after trial fitting all the components, as the power supply interfered with the rear motor connector. Don't know how my OCD is going to cope with the rails not being equidistant from the extrusions but so be it.(Will be covered most of the time). At least there is so much more space than the poor V0!

Already thinking of wire management and would possibly have to fit the skirts and bottom plate before wiring. Need somewhere to fit the cable ducts.

 

Next up wiring. Still have not made up my mind whether I am going cable chain or Umbilical? I know there are arguments for both, and I am not really into speed printing.

[mvdveer]

Build Manual Pages 234 - 263 Wiring

Mod: Umbilical mod

The umbilical mod caused a few challenges.  Had to relocate both the X- and Y - Endstop. (The formbot kit comes with an end stop plate that attaches to the underside of the right XY - joint. Going this way would have meant there were three cables (X, Y and GND) that had to be routed along the Y-axis, thus relocation was necessary.

Relocated the X-endstop to the toolhead - The Voron Tap has a mounting point for this purpose, so that was the easy part.  

Thy y-endstop required some more thought. Though the pin mods, does allow for the Y-enstop to be mounted on the A Motor mount, this took 5mm of Y axis travel, and would have caused an issue down the line with the purge bucket and nozzle scrubber.

Tried some solutions from Printables, BUT most of them were for the 2.4 or Trident without the pin mods. In the end, I used the Hal Effect mount to accommodate the Y-Endstop. Drilled two 1.5mm holes to accept two 2mm self tapping screw. 

X-Enstop wired into the SB2040 Canbus and the y-Endstop cabling hidden in the 202 extrusion, covered by profile covers.

 

Printed an umbilical mount for the toolhead (mounts where the cable chain mount normally would go ,

 

 

as well as the Umbilical Cover for A-Mount.

Wiring done down to the electronics bay. Other than the power, nothing else has been attached to the board, (pages 264 - 268 skipped for now)  as I have to mount the electronics bay baseplate first, in order to mount some slotted cable ducts. This will be done with the skirts. Wiring still a mess - will be tidied up with the mounting of the base plate and cable ducts

 

Challenges still to overcome:

Sagging of the umbilical cord - this only has 4 wires running in it, not much to keep it from sagging.

Have printed the Trident Bowden guide for the Bowden tube. May print a second to keep the umbilical of the build plate and see if I can make this work. Obviously also searching for a solution that may already exist. Though nothing on Voron Mods

On to the skirts I go

 

[mvdveer]

Build Manual Pages 268 - 289 : SKIRTS

Revisited pages 264 - 268: Wiring

Mods: BTT PiTFT 5 inch screen, Ellis Fan Mod, Nevermore Fan, Nozzle scrubber and purge bucket.

Spent most of the day on the wiring after fitting the skirts. Following the manual for the skirts was straightforward - no real issues.

 

 

 

The wiring was a challenge to actually get neat and tidy, due to the depth of the baseplate.

 

With the X-Endstop, SB Neopixels, E-Motor, probe and fans on the Canbus board, I kept thinking I forgot something. Not many wires going down into the electronics bay. Eventually got everything nice and tidy

 

Starting to look a bit like a printer now. Turned the power on and... NO MAGIC SMOKE!

 

On to panels and finishing touches.

Mods to come:- Logitech C922 camera and Chamber LEDS.

 

 

[atrushing]

1 hour ago, mvdveer said:

Starting to look a bit like a printer now. Turned the power on and... NO MAGIC SMOKE!

It looks like one of your Tri-Zeros finally grew up!

[mvdveer]

10 minutes ago, atrushing said:

It looks like one of your Tri-Zeros finally grew up!

About time too, I would say

[Buurman]

On 1/16/2023 at 8:44 PM, mvdveer said:

Any suggestions to improve? Happy to learn - have gone through Andrew Ellis Tuning guide several times. Maybe some super slicer settings. Will have a play around. Parts are strong and dimensionally accurate.

I think you are printing sometimes on smooth PEI plate and sometimes on rough surface?

I see mostly differences on the bottom layer, sometimes being smooth (front of SB) and some having rough surface, like TAP parts.

@Wick

But I am also wondering what you mean by having the infill angles, I think you mentioned it ones on my prints also, I have 45 degree angled prints, what seem to result in quieter prints, and smoother outsides. But the infil is also angled 45 degrees (by default) so should that be changed?

[mvdveer]

1 minute ago, Buurman said:

I think you are printing sometimes on smooth PEI plate and sometimes on rough surface?

You are 100% correct. The Voron 0's all have textured PEI plates whilst the 2.4 has a smooth plate. Waiting for the V0's smooth plates to arrive.

[Buurman]

You really went next level on this build, absolutely loving it, thanks for this!!

Think we found a new Diary format to the extreme  

[Buurman]

On 1/17/2023 at 3:17 PM, claudermilk said:

None of those parts look all that bad IMHO. Close up photos make them look worse than in person. It looks like @mvdveer may want a tiny bit of pressure advance tweaking. For the infill, I don't think the direction makes that much of a difference. For reference, I have my SS set to rotate the parts 45 degrees (per Andrew Ellis suggestion) and in Print Settings/Infill/Advanced my Angle settings are all 0. You can easily change that to try to rotate how it lays the lines.

I will be trying 45 degrees now, since I was wrong, it was 0 by default as you also mentioned.

But 45 degrees could make more sense, lets see if it doenst bite me in the ass

33 minutes ago, mvdveer said:

Waiting for the V0's smooth plates to arrive

You like smooth more? I have people always choose what the like most (especially the front of the SB) and they always choose structure over smooth. Maybe im just promoting it better

[Buurman]

On 1/18/2023 at 10:22 AM, mvdveer said:

Well, now that was interesting - setting up the Mellow Fly SB2040 with canboot and Klipper. Took me a while an lots and lots of reading - but it seems it is set up ok.

Doesn't look pretty though:

On with the build - Electronics

Yet, you make me start looking for a lab power supply now... hahahaha! 

[mvdveer]

8 hours ago, Buurman said:

Yet, you make me start looking for a lab power supply now... hahahaha! 

They do come in handy and not expensive at all.

[smirk]

You two (@mvdveer & @Buurman) are just bad influences......buy this....try that mod.....get one of those.

Curse you cool-kids and  your trend-setting!

[Buurman]

1 hour ago, smirk said:

You two (@mvdveer & @Buurman) are just bad influences......buy this....try that mod.....get one of those.

Curse you cool-kids and  your trend-setting!

@mvdveer just took a picture, YOU .. @smirk made me look at the bowl of screws! and then I found the Lab power supply, and thought... thats pretty cool! .. 

So its all your fault, shouldn't have made me look! 

[claudermilk]

Nice!

Once comment on the Nevermore. I printed up that set of parts, but I mounted mine under the bed. It is tucked in the front right corner of the extrusions, with the side facing your photo down. I worry that you will choke off the fans where it's sitting in yours once the panels are on. Check my build diary, I have photos.

[mvdveer]

12 hours ago, claudermilk said:

Nice!

Once comment on the Nevermore. I printed up that set of parts, but I mounted mine under the bed. It is tucked in the front right corner of the extrusions, with the side facing your photo down. I worry that you will choke off the fans where it's sitting in yours once the panels are on. Check my build diary, I have photos.

Thanks Chris. Saw your build and found the mounts for it. The decision not to go that way, is because of the Ellis Fan mod that limits the space and would blow on the filter. I am using as per the manual a 3mm insulation on the side panels - may extend that to 5mm, in order to get some more clearance. 

I will seriously have to think of a solution:

• Abandon the Ellis Fan Mod and mount the nevermore under the bed. (Without a chamber heater, what does your chamber temp get up to? @claudermilk)
• Redesign the plenum part so it can be rotated 180 degrees and the nevermore mounted on the back extrusion, which won't choke the fans.
• Mount the Nevermore on the bottom plate - will make it more cumbersome removing this to access the electronincs

Mmhhhhh.... let's think about this one a bit more

 

[claudermilk]

I am currently getting up to about 40-42C chamber temp. That's plenty for ABS or Nylon which is all I am printing that needs the enclosed chamber. I'm not trying PEEK or anything--I don't want the front to fall off.  

[DanielLisa]

Minecraft's Tridents are a very rare Weapon. They cannot be crafted, and are instead are a very rare drop from Drowned. Drowned have a 15% chance of spawning with a Trident in Bedrock Edition (6.25% in Java Edition), and those will themselves have an 8.5% chance of dropping their Trident as an item upon death.

regards