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Voron 2.4R2 350 build diary...maybe :)


cobretti

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Some further clarification:

There are two parts to getting this working as you want:

1. Changes to the START_PRINT macro (as indicated before)

2. Changes to your slicer's custom gcode, to call this macro as example in superslicer: (Printer Settings --->Custom G-Code)

image.thumb.png.438ba872c6d436b7c81bed2588dba9ca.png

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For other LED functions, you will need to adjust the various macros to call the LED macro to turn on the effect and turn off the effect. Sometimes you will need to use the rename_existing technique to add the calls to the LED macros.

As an example, here's my updated homing:

[gcode_macro G28]
description: G28 homing with SB LED status
rename_existing: G2828
gcode:
  LED_HOMING
  RESPOND MSG="Homing"
  G2828 { rawparams }
  UPDATE_DELAYED_GCODE ID=_CLEAR_DISPLAY DURATION=1
  LED_STANDBY

 

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  • 2 weeks later...

I'm back for a "small" update - been a frustrating 2 weeks with the build and not having much time to troubleshoot. I left off with my hotend issue and the Rapido just would not play ball. Heatsink was replaced by vendor and clogging appeared to be resolved but then Klipper started reporting under voltage errors for the sb2240 MAX31865 (used with the PT1000). Went to BTT channel on discord and was suggested to use TH0 rather. After switching to using TH0 however the under voltage error moved to the TMC2240 chip for the extruder.

So I had 2 issues to deal with now.

1. The hotend:  For $42(compared to the $130 I paid for the rapido) I got the Bambulab  X1C full hotend kit. In pic below I already removed the fan so for the price this is a steal. Immediately after getting it installed in the SB things were better from that point of view - no clogging and extrusion tests were all good. This thing heats up even faster than the Rapido.

bambu-x1c.thumb.jpg.3f3bf289e8c08b8eef79f4a2ca97bb33.jpg

 

2. SB2240 errors: With hotend seemingly sorted I focused on the EBB SB2240 - was considering going back to using the EBB36 but really liked the 2 piece solution. One note if you do get this is the SB0000 module below has very long solder pins which makes it push up against the fan. Trim these and you will get a flush fit. It may also have been better if they had solder points instead of the duponts.

 

Back to the troubleshooting that kept me stuck. So the under voltage error reported now on the extruder (TMC2240 chip) was happening randomly and small test prints would sometimes complete and other times fail at varying points during the print with the same error - Error: GSTAT: 00000004 uv_cp=1 (undervoltage) 

After reviewing several threads on this error decided my crimp jobs were likely bad due to the use of the small 1.25 crimps on this SB2240 board. Bought this kit from Amazon and so much better than struggling to do them myself with short stubby fingers 😁

125crimps.thumb.jpg.fc1130a4f6c27c831b3e5732e0c5f704.jpg

Issue occurred less but still not resolved. Additionally tuning the extruder current (0.65 to 0.8) seemed to help a little as prints were completing more often but they were all small. I tried a 3 hour print and it failed at about 80% 😤. Yesterday realized i had not check the actual extruder motor connection. When measuring the resistance between the pairs noted that one pair would immediately give me a reading but the other pair seemed to randomly give reading. Sounds familiar right? Recrimped all 4 and after several resistance measuring tests and recrimps 🧐 I felt they were good. I have now had a few prints without an error and ready to try the bigger skirt prints.

success1.thumb.jpg.0eb92809f51958758f931b0d7f3212dd.jpg

Still lots of temporary stuff on the build as I am also considering different accent colors but only have PLA on hand, but this is the progress as it stands. Doors I printed 3mm hinges but I actually attached 3mm foam so will be reprinting those using the 6mm version. Oh I added the Nevermore as well.

nevermore.thumb.jpg.c6b6b3bdaace66b97c294233dae1fff0.jpg

sb0000.jpg

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1 hour ago, GreatNameTaken said:

Did you have any issues with the TMC2240 branch messing up your CanBoot? I tried to update to the branch and I lost all of my CanBoot and had to reflash the CanBoot. Anytime I flash klipper from the TMC2240 branch, I cant communicate with the MCU's. 

I do not use Canboot and go directly to M8P with CB1 using bridge mode but yes when I used the branch directly I had issues so what I did was go back to using Klipper latest revision and only copying the required tmc2240 py files into the Klipper/klippy/extras folder and no can issues after that.

 

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8 minutes ago, cobretti said:

I do not use Canboot and go directly to M8P with CB1 using bridge mode but yes when I used the branch directly I had issues so what I did was go back to using Klipper latest revision and only copying the required tmc2240 py files into the Klipper/klippy/extras folder and no can issues after that.

I figured I would need to go to the latest version  

How do I find the tmc2240 files I need? Pardon my ignorance 😜. I’m new to the GitHub world. 
 

thanks! 

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  • 4 weeks later...

I just got my SB2209 Can V1.0 and I have no clue how to set it up.  Does a person need to load klipper to it via the USB C port?

I am trying to get the UUID but it comes back as 0 uuids found.

Should I have the SB2209 fully hooked up .... I am unclear if the UUID is for the SB2209 or the canbus I2O board.

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12 minutes ago, 3dKaosMonkey said:

I just got my SB2209 Can V1.0 and I have no clue how to set it up.  Does a person need to load klipper to it via the USB C port?

I am trying to get the UUID but it comes back as 0 uuids found.

Should I have the SB2209 fully hooked up .... I am unclear if the UUID is for the SB2209 or the canbus I2O board.

Did you check out this guide?

 

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@3dKaosMonkey I update my 2240 over the USB-C port directly however you need to do so with the STM32Cubeprogrammer software. I use CAN through my M8P v1.1 board in bridge mode so have not looked into the required settings when using I20 board. 

Whenever I am updating my boards (I try and keep all 3 at same Klipper version whenever I update). So when I update its Klipper host(CB1 on M8P), the M8P MCU and the SB2240 MCU. Host is easiest of course so I do that first. Then I run the config and set my settings for the M8P (CAN bridge mode). Download the klipper.bin file, rename to firmware.bin and update the M8P through sdcard. I run the config again and set the settings for the 2240. I download this klipper.bin file, connect the USB-C to my laptop, do the DFU button process on the SB2240, open the klipper.bin file with the STM32Cubeprogrammer, let it find the device in DFU mode and I upload the bin file to the SB2240.

Then do a printer power cycle and everything is updated and good to go. I tried before to use the Klipper automation script for MCU updating but it broke the system so now I just use this process above.

 

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8 hours ago, cobretti said:

@3dKaosMonkey I update my 2240 over the USB-C port directly however you need to do so with the STM32Cubeprogrammer software. I use CAN through my M8P v1.1 board in bridge mode so have not looked into the required settings when using I20 board. 

Whenever I am updating my boards (I try and keep all 3 at same Klipper version whenever I update). So when I update its Klipper host(CB1 on M8P), the M8P MCU and the SB2240 MCU. Host is easiest of course so I do that first. Then I run the config and set my settings for the M8P (CAN bridge mode). Download the klipper.bin file, rename to firmware.bin and update the M8P through sdcard. I run the config again and set the settings for the 2240. I download this klipper.bin file, connect the USB-C to my laptop, do the DFU button process on the SB2240, open the klipper.bin file with the STM32Cubeprogrammer, let it find the device in DFU mode and I upload the bin file to the SB2240.

Then do a printer power cycle and everything is updated and good to go. I tried before to use the Klipper automation script for MCU updating but it broke the system so now I just use this process above.

I want to dumb this down for my little brain... are you saying that you update Klipper on your Manta M8P first and then update it on the SB Can board?

You do not have a third device to update such as U2C or the IO2 board?

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@3dKaosMonkey

Correct the M8P v1.1 has CAN onboard. You hold the BOOT button in and hit the RST button and it will go into DFU.

https://github.com/bigtreetech/EBB/blob/master/EBB SB2240_2209 CAN/Build Guide/EBB SB2240_2209 CAN v1.0 Build Guide.pdf

This guide is actually pretty good.

If this is the CAN board you have check here:

bigtreetech/IO2CAN (github.com)

 

Some good CAN resources:

Esoterical/voron_canbus (github.com)

https://github.com/EricZimmerman/VoronTools/blob/main/EBB_CAN.md

 

Edited by cobretti
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They work on the same principle but each board would still have its own specific settings you need to get right or you will be frustrating yourself trying to get it to work. Best thing is to read over those links, find the common sections then move onto the board specific ones.

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13 minutes ago, 3dKaosMonkey said:

Are all canboards alike..

Good question. I would say in theory "yes". They're using the canbus protocol  with the specific dialect (for lack of a better word) being implemented by Klipper. However, how faithful each implementation is to the protocol is probably questionable (depends on how much has been left to the implementor). Like many things YMMV when mixing brands

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