Voron Replicator 2!

[Ducky4546]

Technically I could shorten the rear Z linear rail but I'm leaving it long just in case I ever wanted to increase the build height.

But if it fit it's ships!

[Ducky4546]

So I am working on the second half of my tool head wiring harness. The shared 24v Between the heater cartridge and the part fan has me confused......

How should I wire this to my board. Currently I have the Part fan trace cut for 24v

Do I have "24V" (Connected to Positive) and  "Heat" (Connected to negative)

What really confuses me is how my Part fan can run off a PWM signal and be connected to the heater at the same time?

Any sparky help would be greatly appreciated. 

 

https://kb-3d.com/store/img/cms/pancakeboard.png

[atrushing]

1 hour ago, Ducky4546 said:

The shared 24v Between the heater cartridge and the part fan has me confused..

On most of the printer MCU boards, the ground is the wire that is switched. That is how the V0.1 used a 5V 3007 hotend fan on the smaller (non-selectable) 24V board. I have actually run a 5V SSR for a 220V heated bed by borrowing a 5V pin from elsewhere and connecting it and the bed ground connection to the SSR.

[Ducky4546]

Progress today! I made some mistakes wiring up my tool head connector. But I ordered the correct de-pinning tool from amazon for the Molex 3.0 and Mini fit connectors and it was an easy fix. 

https://a.co/d/ceOrjpb

 

 

 

It was allot more work to add the cable break in here But if I need to replace the wires in the cable chain it will be well worth it! 

The last bit of wiring is the bed in the LDO wiring guide they show this part. But I cant seem to find the right model for it. The STL in the Voron files only has 3x Wago slots? Is there any reason not to use an arrangement like LDO shows below? It would be nice to be able to remove the bed when working on the printer.  

 

 

 

 

Edited February 15 by Ducky4546

[YaaJ]

Thanks for the link to the tool !
Been searching the genuine tool on RS : crazy expensive.

Didn't purchase the universal extractor kit that can be seen everywhere : didn't trust it

amazon.com : $19.99 , exported to Europe : + $12.06 shipping.
amazon.fr : 97€40 from London !!! Also available on Aliexpress for 11€59 with a coupon.

Successfully used this trick, with 100% success on the 2x 14-pin (de-pinned the whole harness) :

Please, add it to the Mega List.

Edited February 15 by YaaJ

[Ducky4546]

Glad the link helped you out!

I tired something similar hammering welding wire flat. But quickly gave up after I found that tool. The ends are cut on super thin on a wire EDM. Worth it to have in the tool kit.

[claudermilk]

That tool just totally went on my wishlist! While the SIM card extractor works, this looks a lot easier.

[Ducky4546]

 Bed mounting progress! Through out this whole build the bed and Z axis have taken many forms. When I chose to use the E3D High Temp bed, the mounting threw a wrench in the gears from the standard Voron.

 I was ham strung by my previous bed mounting blocks and the stock Trident rear pivot. This morning I said time for a new sheet of paper! 

 I modified the Voron rear pivot arm to work with a square frame and created new bed mounting blocks that work with silicone spacers. The front pivot arms also need to be shifted forward about 6mm. All I can say is I love Direct Modeling and history free mode in Fusion 360! I do need to dig into Blender and Plasticity on some more. 

I also modeled that Wago / JST mount I couldn't find. I am currently printing a version with 3X Wagos so I can remove the bed completely because I know I will be working on this thing allot. This layout works excellent with the two tapped holes in that back for the thermal fuse and ground wire. 

It's darn close to actually working! 

[Ducky4546]

The last bit of Bed wiring is done! I went to a 3 bay Wago bracket so the bed can be easily removed. I also flipped the drag chain over to the right side. It just makes more sense. I need to re-print the the center skirt panel and I will model in a small channel to keep the AC wires away from the stepper motor. 

The Wagon mount has slightly wider section between two of the connectors. I added an access hole to tighten the thermal fuse. 

Once it's all tested I'll clean this area up with some shrink wrap or sheathing of some kind.

 

 

[Ducky4546]

We passed our a bunch of our Functional Checks tonight!

It feels good to actually see this thing start to come to life after working on it and my two Cr6 machines for the last year. But I have learned so much in that year I wouldn't change a thing.   

Passed Tests:

- Hot end Fan

- Part Cooling Fan

- Extruder heater / PID tune

- Bed heater / PID tune

- AB motors spin

- Beacon Config 

- Belts Back on

To Do List:

 - Add a belt pass through on rear umbilical mount

 - Get correct size button head hardware for beacon (No bed scratching allowed) 

- Finalize Z belt tensioner and order Deck plate 

- Set up sensor less homing (or add one switch to the tool head carriage. I have two pins a available for switches or neo pixels.) 

- Use new Pine 64 soldiering iron to get neo pixels wired in 

- Print Mini Stealth Burner 2.0 when available (The new design looks way more serviceable )

- Build second tool Mini Stealth Tool head with KB3D fans

- Figure out why the 14pin Molex connector is such a pain to remove from the pancake board

- Adjust cable clip model for my extrusion 

 - Print something! 

 

[Ducky4546]

It moves!!!!! Well sort of

I am trying to setup senseless homing. When I home the X or Y axis the motors buzz.

I had to invert the pin on one of my motors. Now the tool head moves in the correct axis.

After that I can jog the both axes but not past its start point (Where it thinks its homed). Any tips on where I should start my troubleshooting? 

Here is my current printer.cfg

printer.cfg

[Ducky4546]

More progress!. I had the wrong pin defined for sensor less homing. After calling out the correct signal pin for X and Y we have movement.

But it still buzzes in the X and Y direction starting the home movement? After it homes there is no buzz when moving. 

 

 

 

[Ducky4546]

Back from Vacation.

Before I left, I had the printer alive and moving. But the sensor-less homing was giving me lots of trouble.

Of course I had to do it the hard way.....I was able to fit a Y limit switch into the stock cable duct. Which looks pretty darn clean! 

Of course it lands on a curved area of the carriage but that can be easily fixed. 

I had seen some others add a limit switch to the lower B motor mount but I could not find the right model to start with. There is also on in the stock Trident model but it was unclear where it went?

I also started updating the model for the drag chain mount/pivot, to add a switch and a few other features. It still needs a little more work with the print orientation. The goal being for the pivot to work right off the printer. No fooling around with reamers.

Once these two switches are wired up I should be able to run a test print !!!!!

[Ducky4546]

Holy crap it's printing!!!!!!!

I need to swap out the part cooling fans for the better ones I have (GDS Time vs crap Winsin) and do more tuning. But its squirting out a boat shaped object pretty quickly.

The belted Z seems to be working very good and the extra wide screen it's really nice to use.

 

 

 

[atrushing]

7 hours ago, Ducky4546 said:

Holy crap it's printing!!!!!!!

I need to swap out the part cooling fans for the better ones I have (GDS Time vs crap Winsin) and do more tuning. But its squirting out a boat shaped object pretty quickly.

The belted Z seems to be working very good and the extra wide screen it's really nice to use.

Great seeing your hard work finally paying off! That widescreen looks pretty epic there.

If you wait a little on upgrading those Winsinn blowers I am hoping to release the v2 Mini Stealth soon(ish) and it will include the air guides for even better airflow.

[Ducky4546]

@atrushing Thanks! The wide layout takes a little getting used to compared to my other ones but it's really nice and easy to read.

I am very excited for the V2 release!

I have the GDS Time 4010s I got from KB3D I just need to shorten the wires. They moved allot more air on my bench test the other day. I'll post my updated and my carriage files on you post. The wire routing for the beacon is working awesome. 

I maybe move the extruder up. The tool head board was hitting the left X axis block. So I might take a second look at the X limit switch. But it it's only short about a 8mm right now
 

 

[atrushing]

50 minutes ago, Ducky4546 said:

I maybe move the extruder up. The tool head board was hitting the left X axis block.

Yeah, the stepper sits very low with the Orbiter extruder. That's why I'm making the toolhead PCB mounts horizontal for all of the new versions but that means you would have to redesign your drag-chain mounting system.. I also think I will have to move the whole extruder up by 2mm for the v2 release so that it can be compatible with the Mini Stealth DAB.

[Penatr8tor]

Looks good @Ducky4546. Awesome!

[Ducky4546]

2 hours ago, atrushing said:

Yeah, the stepper sits very low with the Orbiter extruder. That's why I'm making the toolhead PCB mounts horizontal for all of the new versions but that means you would have to redesign your drag-chain mounting system.. I also think I will have to move the whole extruder up by 2mm for the v2 release so that it can be compatible with the Mini Stealth DAB.

The angled motor definitely causes some issues. Maybe I'll start with a simple spacer and try not to modify the more stock parts haha

[Ducky4546]

@atrushing Taking a closer look at my interferences. The biggest issue is the corner of the Pancake PCB hitting the Top XY joint plate. The switch can be sunk in or moved to the other side. Shortening shifting the orbiter forward could be an option. 

Are there any limit switches that come with wires installed? I have been soldering / shrink wrapping my connections. Somewhere in my mess I have a packages of  https://sugru.com/ that would be great for creating some custom over-molds.

 

[atrushing]

1 hour ago, Ducky4546 said:

Taking a closer look at my interferences. The biggest issue is the corner of the Pancake PCB hitting the Top XY joint plate.

It might be worth using the horizontal umbilical PCB mount I posted here even though it would mean a re-work of your drag chain mount. It should give you plenty of clearance and, if you ever decide to go with an umbilical board with an ADXL on it, I understand that they should be mounted in line with the printer's XYZ axes.

The only wired microswitches I have seen have been included in printer kits. I have been using a Pinecil soldering iron for a while now and I don't really mind the soldering too much any more.

[Ducky4546]

I swapped the fans out after dinner today and it was a big improvement on the bow of the Benchy. Tomorrow I'll work on actually calibration and profile setup instead of just having fun making it go to fast!

The Z-hop was getting a bit ridiculous at.%300 over-ride. But my belted Z axis was keeping up great.

[claudermilk]

18 hours ago, atrushing said:

The only wired microswitches I have seen have been included in printer kits. I have been using a Pinecil soldering iron for a while now and I don't really mind the soldering too much any more.

It's amazing how having the right/nice tools changes things, isn't it? After I got myself set up with the TS-101 and Omnifixo soldering tasks became not only doable, but--shockingly--mostly enjoyable.

[atrushing]

2 hours ago, claudermilk said:

After I got myself set up with the TS-101 and Omnifixo

I would really like to get the Omnifixo but the price is a little steep and I don't know if I can convince the wife to get it for me as a present..

[Ducky4546]

I have one of those little pencil irons now too. It is so much easier to solder now. I had an old one that my my Dads from the EE shop. Something shorted in it one day and I found it glowing red hot!

I should have listened to my buddy who is a tech on a autonomous research vessel and avid RC guy, sent me his go to soldering kit list below. You can even run these little irons off a battery pack.

 

KG's Soldiering Kit

PINECIL – Smart Mini Portable Soldering Iron (Version 2)

Very cheap but just as good, or better than others. Operates off of 12-24V source or USB-C PD (preferred). I carry a USB-C PD 65W adapter for the bench and a big USB-C PD 65W powerbank for remote soldering. I was using a fancy bench Hakko station but find myself using the Pinecil more often anymore. These are designed to work off batteries and cool down when motion is not detected.

https://pine64.com/product/pinecil-smart-mini-portable-soldering-iron/<a href='https://pine64.com/product/pinecil-smart-mini-portable-soldering-iron/' target='_blank' rel='noreferrer noopener'>

 

Tips

The small pointed conical tip that comes with the Pinecil (and most other irons) is absolute garbage for most jobs. I prefer chiseled or beveled tips since they transfer heat and hold solder much better than conical tips. Any "TS100" tip will work. Pinecil shorter ones but you have to buy the pack of that you may not use.

For big joints:

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B06XYS34N4/?th=1<a href='https://www.amazon.com/dp/B06XYS34N4/?th=1' target='_blank' rel='noreferrer noopener'>

For anything small:

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B06XYR6QS4/?th=1<a href='https://www.amazon.com/dp/B06XYR6QS4/?th=1' target='_blank' rel='noreferrer noopener'>

 

Flux

Always use a good flux even if using flux core solder. Kester 186 will turn any mediocre solderer into a master if used with decent solder. In the field, conductors or pads can be oxidized and although cleaning is essential, a good flux will allow the solder adhere and flow well.

https://www.amazon.com/Kester-Rosin-Soldering-Bottle-Clean/dp/B01MR49JY1<a href='https://www.amazon.com/Kester-Rosin-Soldering-Bottle-Clean/dp/B01MR49JY1' target='_blank' rel='noreferrer noopener'>

 

Blue tack

I have seen some very elaborate "helping hands" setups but I find that a good ball of blue tack and a couple tools can accomplish the same goal. I use it in the field to hold the iron so it doesn't roll away. I always have a few hemostats to hold items then I push into the bluetack.

https://www.amazon.com/Blu-Tack-S050Q-Reusable-Adhesive-75g/dp/B001FGLX72/<a href='https://www.amazon.com/Blu-Tack-S050Q-Reusable-Adhesive-75g/dp/B001FGLX72/' target='_blank' rel='noreferrer noopener'>

<a href='https://www.amazon.com/Blu-Tack-S050Q-Reusable-Adhesive-75g/dp/B001FGLX72/' target='_blank' rel='noreferrer noopener'>

Isopropyl Alcohol IPA

I use 70% but some argue higher alcohol percent is required for circuit boards. I have a squirt bottle with it and religiously clean before and after soldering.

 

Flush Cutters

Put them in your solder kit so you don't have to scrounge around your Jenson kit for them. I prefer knipex but buy mass quantities of the cheap Hakko ones.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0063GL7UM<a href='https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0063GL7UM' target='_blank' rel='noreferrer noopener'>

<a href='https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0063GL7UM' target='_blank' rel='noreferrer noopener'>

Solder

I very much prefer leaded solder over leadfree. Do a test with both and you find leaded solder is all around better.....just don't eat it. I like the 63/37 rosin core 0.032" for general work.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B072JQ1JH4/?th=1<a href='https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B072JQ1JH4/?th=1' target='_blank' rel='noreferrer noopener'>

<a href='https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B072JQ1JH4/?th=1' target='_blank' rel='noreferrer noopener'>

Hemostat

Put a handful of these in your kit. Good for all kinds of holding needs.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01EM94ID4/<a href='https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01EM94ID4/' target='_blank' rel='noreferrer noopener'>

 

Hot Glue

I probably use too much hot glue but find it works really well for holding things in place while soldering and adding rigidity to joints. I used to always carry a butane unit but the electric cordless guns work great. I have a hot glue gun that operates off a milwaukee battery but prefer the small USB-C chargeable one for my personal kit.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0BL374ZSJ<a href='https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0BL374ZSJ' target='_blank' rel='noreferrer noopener'>

 

Tweezers

I have these stashed all over the place. Necessary for the fat finger folk like myself.

https://www.amazon.com/Lumenier-Heat-Dissipating-Precision-Tweezers/dp/B0BG3NR9TH/<a href='https://www.amazon.com/Lumenier-Heat-Dissipating-Precision-Tweezers/dp/B0BG3NR9TH/' target='_blank' rel='noreferrer noopener'>

<a href='https://www.amazon.com/Blu-Tack-S050Q-Reusable-Adhesive-75g/dp/B001FGLX72/' target='_blank' rel='noreferrer noopener'>

Heat

I use a small butane lighter for most field shrink tube jobs

 

Shrink wrap

Stock an assortment of 3:1 dual wall/adhesive lined since you will almost always need it when soldering.