Voron Replicator 2!

[claudermilk]

Those magnifiers are great. My wife got one of these:

https://www.amazon.com/YOCTOSUN-Magnifier-Professional-Jewelers-Interchangeable/dp/B01H8808H6/ref=sr_1_27?crid=3HRH7GSZTX5XC&keywords=optivisor&qid=1676738671&sprefix=opti+vis%2Caps%2C1008&sr=8-27

...which I've taken over and used for all my wiring & small soldering tasks. It's great and actually works over glasses surprisingly well.

[smirk]

Yup, if there was any doubt we're a bunch of old men, nothing like a discussion regards vision enhancing devices. I use ones similar to these as they are illuminated and until I looked at the man in the advert for them I never realised how ridiculous I look with them. You can also wear them over glasses

[claudermilk]

LOL It appears these things are like TS100/101 soldering irons. Many near-identical clones. I honestly don't recall the brand my wife got, but same thing and it is illuminated. We do indeed look ridiculous wearing them (and the kids get a good laugh), but it's worth it to see what you are doing with the tiny parts. I tried the 5x readers that Steve Builds uses, but those didn't work at all for me with my prescription needs.

[7milesup]

On 2/18/2023 at 11:35 AM, smirk said:

Yup, if there was any doubt we're a bunch of old men, nothing like a discussion regards vision enhancing devices. I use ones similar to these as they are illuminated and until I looked at the man in the advert for them I never realised how ridiculous I look with them. You can also wear them over glasses

 

On 2/18/2023 at 10:46 AM, claudermilk said:

Those magnifiers are great. My wife got one of these:

https://www.amazon.com/YOCTOSUN-Magnifier-Professional-Jewelers-Interchangeable/dp/B01H8808H6/ref=sr_1_27?crid=3HRH7GSZTX5XC&keywords=optivisor&qid=1676738671&sprefix=opti+vis%2Caps%2C1008&sr=8-27

...which I've taken over and used for all my wiring & small soldering tasks. It's great and actually works over glasses surprisingly well.

Yep, I have a pair of those in my shop too.  Love them.  They work well over my glasses and the built in LED is really nice to have.

[billbr]

I use an Aven magnified light https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07G8GZQ5J/ (has drop-in lens for different magnifications). I find the opti head units are cheap lens, narrow field of vision, and the lens pops off of them at inopportune times. 

I will say that I don't like the arm system on the Aven, but the optics are really good. Their strongest magnifier has a very small depth of field which might be ok for surface mount soldering but gets in the way for "normal" soldering/crimping work. 

[Ducky4546]

I'm Back from Vacation with the family. I had an idea last week thinking about leveling feet.

Any precision instrument is always mounted on three points to avoid any twist being introduced. Often times you will see surface grinders, CNC machines etc. use five feet. The three main feet are used for level and the last two are adjusted just so they touch by hand (For safety and stability) with 4 points you will always be chasing one "soft foot". Compliant feet can help with this in a four foot arrangement.

So my bench where my main printer sits is far from flat. I took a stab at a 5 foot concept this morning. The rear two feet would be the ones you adjust by hand (simple captured nut). The front two and rear center would carry the load. I need to do some work on the skirt but on the first go it looks plausible. 

I am keeping my options open for the Z axis motor. Originally I wanted to use a belted Z. But my back up plan (If the bed is too heavy and unstable) is to switch to a Single belt driven tri screw design. Bamboo and VZ bot use this arrangement (well 2 screws but it could have a 3rd)

I also reprinted all my Gantry Parts in ABS and mounted the Din Rails before it Left. I went with the Big Tree Teck SKR-3EZ board and have my shopping list queued up for the rest of the electronics. Its just a matter of going through the build manuals and figuring out what wires (Type and Gage and connectors) I need to order.

I researched the different tool head and Can-Bus boards last week so I just need to get some dimensions and see what fits the best.    

 

[Ducky4546]

I finished up the modeling work on the rear skirt. I have a pile of electronics to get cracking on but I wanted to sort out the power and ethernet input first. 

Where would be a good spot to put the ethernet port on the back. Is it ok to run it next to the power input? Does that cause interference with the signals?

Below is my preliminary electronics layout. I need to draw in all the power wires and add a few terminal blocks. I plan to use the Big Tree Tech relay so my main board can shut down the printer when done or if the mains bed has an SSR issue. I was able to access the printer through Mobile Raker with the help of Tail Scale VPN. This is the part of the build that I am weakest in. Any suggestions are more than welcome. Once I add in all the wire combs I think the final position of things will come together. 

[Ducky4546]

I got the back skirt printed in Poly Maker ABS and it came out great. Stuck like hell and no warping! Matter Hackers ABS printed really nice but much more prone to warping.

  Anyway I found this tool free punch down Ethernet jack from mono price and I made a quick friction fit adapter prototype. Seems to work pretty good. 

 for the honey comb. 

[Ducky4546]

I am working on the modeling for the side skirt and fans. I modified the trident cad file and printed them the other day. Then I realized there was no mounting for the fans. The manual shows dog ears for mounting? How is the trident supposed to retain the fans? Maybe I just glue the fan covers in? 

[Ducky4546]

I worked on a bigger version of the top hat today as well as a rear hinge.

When I had my old Replicator 2 it had the top bubble that you always had to take off the machine and it was always in the way or on the floor.

These parts came out awesome less the sputtering on my extruder (It was time to replace the M4 Latch and PTFE tube).

It feels like a tornado went through my bench but we are making progress and I'm having a good time exercising that engineer side of my brain. The full version of Hinge 2.0 is on the machine printing now. I think its going to work well!

 

 

[Ducky4546]

Its has a top hat in real life. Some adjustments are needed but I think the proportions work. It would be even more awesome if I could get this printed in one piece. 

[atrushing]

1 hour ago, Ducky4546 said:

It would be even more awesome if I could get this printed in one piece. 

That would require a serious printer! When you add in the plexi panels it should get more rigid.

I like the printed bike hub!

[Ducky4546]

7 minutes ago, atrushing said:

That would require a serious printer! When you add in the plexi panels it should get more rigid.

For sure! I agree the panels will stiffen it up a lot. 

The Hub was a project to stuff new a new DT swiss ratchet into a vintage DT hub body. The orange model was printed on my MakerBot and flanges are terrible. But you can see the ratchet work in this video. I got the CR6 shortly after. 

https://www.instagram.com/p/CZdPvcFOjeH/?igshid=YmMyMTA2M2Y=

[Ducky4546]

Tiny little crimps today!

I am very glad I got these magnifiers. The little pin holders works great for loading the into the crimper too.

It seems to go smoother if I crimp the insulation first then the conductor. 

Of course I started on the shortest wires possible haha.

 

[Penatr8tor]

@Ducky4546 I have something similar and yes... I can't see small stuff without them. Game changer IMO.

Crimping those tiny little terminals can be really challenging. Some people like to load the terminal into the crimper, insert the wire and then crimp, that's what I do and also the recommended way. The other way I've seen is to crimp the insulation first with pliers and then insert the terminal into the crimper to crimp the leads. Either way is fine and whatever works best is literally what works best. I'm getting ready to do the final wiring on my V-Core build so crimping is in my immediate future.

[claudermilk]

Those magnifiers make such a huge difference.

[Ducky4546]

Though out this whole build I was wrestling with using a top cross bar or not.

I tested an Idea out this morning using a modified belt tensioner. Where the tension screw passes through the aluminum extrusion. It still has the same amount of travel. The slot is shifted backwards.

I think I like it. Rev 2 will need better tension screw support. 

It doesn't look as clean as a Trident but it definitely gains stiffness and allow for the plastic top hat. 

h

[Ducky4546]

Tensioner Rev 2 works much better.

I extended the boss with the receiving hole and added a keyed feature. I also extended the front face of the bearing carrier to help keep it from twisting 

It will need a 3x45mm screw from the Amazon fairey. There is allot of pressure on that support hole in the back! But it can't split the two halves apart any more.

It works well! Onto firming up the Z axis so I can get some electronics in this thing! 

[Ducky4546]

Small update but exciting. 

I got the guts of a super tiny webcam on Ali Express and it works! It will make a great nozzle cam. 

i also got my top hat windows in from Send Cut send. A few more small adjustments to the clips and it will be ready to go. My M4 latch failed and was giving me all sorts of issues as well as my SD card got corrupted. So now we are on a fresh card and I added Ogham Couplers and POM nuts to the Cr6 it's making some great parts now. This is one of those projects with allot of balls in the air but it will come together soon.

 

 

 

Edited April 17, 2023 by Ducky4546

[claudermilk]

17 hours ago, Ducky4546 said:

Small update but exciting. 

I got the guts of a super tiny webcam on Ali Express and it works! It will make a great nozzle cam. 

Well, don't hold out on us! Link? It looks like that one would fit in the inductive probe space nicely for those of us using Tap.

[Ducky4546]

@claudermilk Sorry about the excited quick post it was a busy here yesterday ooff. Here is the camera I got. Make sure you order the cable as well. The ring light is very bright. I have no clue if it has any auto focus features. But it was plug and play on initial testing. 

https://www.aliexpress.us/item/3256803410047923.html?spm=a2g0o.order_list.order_list_main.28.c5641802HYTV8l&gatewayAdapt=glo2usa&_randl_shipto=US

Edited April 18, 2023 by Ducky4546

[claudermilk]

Thanks!

[Ducky4546]

Little steps today. I updated my Window clips and found the new corner clips work great. The adition of the little Voron log makes it much easier to put together. I am happy its in one piece. I need to trim the rear window a due to some interference. But that is tomorrows task. No emailing 8000 people all day for volunteer work. 

I also did some front skirt modeling. The TFT50 screen was just really big so I am playing with the idea of using a V0 touch screen mod as a base and adding a hinge to it. That way It can swing out then fold flush. Does anyone know of a TFT style screen that is a little bit bigger (About 3.5"). I know I'm terrible I just cant leave anything stock even the mods. 

Here is some photos and screen shots.

New Clips

 

Front Skirt 

Edited April 21, 2023 by Ducky4546

[mvdveer]

15 minutes ago, Ducky4546 said:

Does anyone know of a TFT style screen that is a little bit bigger (About 3.5").

Don't know if this may be an option?

 

[Ducky4546]

3 minutes ago, mvdveer said:

Don't know if this may be an option?

Ooh that could be good. I'll play with some cad and see how it fits.Thanks