Voron Replicator 2!

[Ducky4546]

  It's been a minute since I had some workshop time. Summer with two little kids is a hoot! 

 I'm back on the Frankenstein build. I had at one point a scaled up V0 Z axis. The printed parts had a good bit of flex with the large bed. But the real issue was how to tie the vertical extrusion to the frame. It was causing interference issue with the carriage and and rear mounted probe.

So I switch gears and printed the Trident Z axis and it works much much better! 

I have an SKR 3 EZ board on hand for the build which is now short stepper drivers. So I took a stab at using a 3 screw belt driven modification. I may need revise the design but it works well for now 

I also dropped the electronics lower to clear the belt and keep it hidden from the main print volume.

I promise I'll get back to wiring soon.

Worst case scenario. I swap the main board and drive 3x motors instead of 1. 

 

[Ducky4546]

Quick update. After a bit of playing electronics Tetris I have a layout that works well with all the connections, SD cards and USB ports. There is room for a wire comb as well.

I reprinted my motor mounts with an access hole for the 40 tooth pulley set screw. This allows you to rough level the gantry without removing the nut.

I'm much happier with this print. I aimed for the flattest part of my build plate and now the screw alignment is spot on. 

Up next cut up some cardboard panels to test fit and firm up the tensioner.

[Ducky4546]

Haha!!!! (mad scientists laugh) my ratcheting nut idea actually works! How practical it is for fine leveling Im not sure. But the bed goes up and down smoothly and you can adjust the level right at the nut.

Link to the video

https://www.instagram.com/reel/CzMQCPgukAC/?igshid=MzRlODBiNWFlZA==

[Ducky4546]

Ok so things are getting dangerous now..... A mechanical guy is doing wiring diagrams!!!! 

I am getting things ready to start connecting wires. Those who are well verse in the Angry Pixies please take a look at my connections so far. I think I got it right? 

Voron Rep 3 High Voltage Wiring Rev-2.pdf

[atrushing]

On 11/5/2023 at 3:16 AM, Ducky4546 said:

Ok so things are getting dangerous now..... A mechanical guy is doing wiring diagrams!!!! 

I am getting things ready to start connecting wires. Those who are well verse in the Angry Pixies please take a look at my connections so far. I think I got it right? 

Voron Rep 3 High Voltage Wiring Rev-2.pdf 1.11 MB · 1 download

I am more of a mechanical guy as well but, looking over your diagram, everything looks right and I don't see any obvious ground loops.

[Ducky4546]

I drew up a concept for a wave Share 7.9" display today while I ran off some calibration prints. It is a work in progress but it looks pretty cool! There allot of balls in the air but its coming together!

Mine Stealth Burner is on the machine after calibration. Let see if there is less fiddling with the fans this time

Edited November 7, 2023 by Ducky4546

[kenjesse_75]

On 12/6/2022 at 4:34 PM, Ducky4546 said:

Two steps forward and one back today. I cut down my Y rails to 200mm and even got all fancy and side wheeled them on my surface grinder. But to find out a made a mistake and the the trident gantry has MGN 9 rails in Y and I have 12s !!!!!!

Oh well this is why Fusion 360 has direct modeling right? 

I am very happy with using the side of the wheel on my surface grinder. That was a first. 

Just reading through your build log, very impressed and a little awed.  Happen to have a small Home Shop of my own with a K.O. Lee 718 Surface Grinder and was wondering if you ever thought of mounting a cutting wheel on yours.  I have one setup for use on mine and it works great for cutting everything from extrusions, rails, prehardened stock and even the grooves in my gray cast lapping plates that I made for trying out the "3-plate method".  BTW your machine looks way cleaner than my old one.  Doing a complete teardown is in its future but I'm still able to easily hold a tenth or so tolerance so for my needs its easy to put off.  Love the work you're doing.

Stay safe.

[atrushing]

7 hours ago, Ducky4546 said:

I drew up a concept for a wave Share 7.9" display today while I ran off some calibration prints. It is a work in progress but it looks pretty cool!

Those WaveShare screens are great! I'm using one for a CyberDeck that I still need to finish. The aspect ratio looks perfect for your printer.

 

7 hours ago, Ducky4546 said:

Let see if there is less fiddling with the fans this time

Good luck! I have had one blower that wouldn't spin up until I left a little extra slack in the wire.

[Ducky4546]

7 hours ago, kenjesse_75 said:

Just reading through your build log, very impressed and a little awed.  Happen to have a small Home Shop of my own with a K.O. Lee 718 Surface Grinder and was wondering if you ever thought of mounting a cutting wheel on yours.  I have one setup for use on mine and it works great for cutting everything from extrusions, rails, prehardened stock and even the grooves in my gray cast lapping plates that I made for trying out the "3-plate method".  BTW your machine looks way cleaner than my old one.  Doing a complete teardown is in its future but I'm still able to easily hold a tenth or so tolerance so for my needs its easy to put off.  Love the work you're doing.

Stay safe.

Thanks for the kind words. Yeah I need to up my grinder game on the Harig and get a proper cut off wheel on it. I have been using my angle grinder with metabo disks to rough cut the rails. Then I side wheel them to size. I love that someone else on here also has a home machine shop! KO Lee is makes great machines. I have always wanted one of there cutter grinders to play with.

[Ducky4546]

I got the screen rotated in on the Wave Share 7.9" (fully operational now! )

Following the instructions from the site below they neglected to mention that you have to "HDMI-0" and not HDMI-1 on the Pi 4 once I did that all was good. 

https://www.waveshare.com/wiki/7.9inch_HDMI_LCD

Three take aways:

Use HDMI Port 0

Don't edit Config.txt in regular note pad use Nano

Remember to plug in the touch screen USB not just the power (face-palm) 

 

Edited November 8, 2023 by Ducky4546

[Ducky4546]

Update! I came across the Ctrl + Alt + F1/F2 command earlier it is a handy trick if you cant SSH into your pi and your running Klipper screen. 

 

Edited November 8, 2023 by Ducky4546

[Ducky4546]

Some small but important victories today. I bored out the stepper housings so I could put a spacer in between the pulley and front bearing. I found that the set screws can follow the thread and really tighten down the pulley to the stepper body....not good.

I also updated my spacer block. The first version causing alignment issues with the small surface area of those pins. Now with a 3rd point of support it bolts up nice and straight.

I think I could easily integrate the spacer blocks and bearings into the main motor mount. But this will do for now. 

[Ducky4546]

Quick update. I have the wire raceways securely bolted into the printer and I recessed the adjustable nut into the left / right bed mount. I just need to add some holes for the rear wire exits and tidy up a few more items. Just one bite at a time I keep telling myself. 

 

 

[Ducky4546]

Progress today. After getting all the linear rails greased and lined up I finally got some wires installed! Everything on the high voltage side and 5V supply works. My screen powers on and no smoke.

I'll get the SKR3-EZ board wired up after dinner and get reading the manual.

Question for running the SSR on the bed do I have to do anything special on the board or configs vs just a regular 24v bed? 

[mvdveer]

1 hour ago, Ducky4546 said:

Question for running the SSR on the bed do I have to do anything special on the board or configs vs just a regular 24v bed? 

Just make sure you have a thermal fuse in place on the positive(Live) of the bed going to the SSR. No difference in the configs between 24V or 110V/220V

[Ducky4546]

Quick update. My printer is fully powered. Currently digging into the config files. I need to figure out how to enable the SP_ON pin for my BTT relay. 

Also I picked up on the micro knippex wire strippers for the really small wire my larger auto stripper was have trouble with. It works fantastic! It's all about the right tool for the job.

[claudermilk]

Having the correct (good) tool makes a world of difference!

[Ducky4546]

Mini Stealth Burner Horizontal Drag Chain! @atrushing

This is my first stab at mounting a horizontal drag chain to the printer. Right before the holidays I have all the lower deck wiring completed. But I had to finalize how my wires got to the tool head. 

If all goes to plan I will run this as sensor less homing and use the two end stop ports to send my Beacon probe signals back to the board.

It needs some more work but it's a great start.

Also I need to try Matter Hackers Build Series ABS again. It's prints so clean but does like to warp on larger prints. 

 I have been using allot of Poly Maker ABS and it prints great and has low warping but the Matters Hackers beats it with precision and finish.

[Ducky4546]

 

I've been adjusting this drag chain mount in the background while chasing kids. The one is pretty darn close. The new geometry will let me print on a different orientation. 

Currently I clamp it shut and ream the hole. 

I remodeled the drag chain 90 degree link and this one prints much cleaner and the thicker ears don't snap off of you sneeze 

Full Video of the drag Chain in motion here. (I need to find a video compressor) 

https://www.instagram.com/p/C2GynCcOzp_/?fbclid=IwAR1bsBKRmJ2xrGhEQyYpMo0aDuElxMZRFimHFbOVYKBT7YyHGoT90MfDhSQ

 

 

 

Edited January 15 by Ducky4546

[Ducky4546]

Well That was a lot of button clicking this afternoon! I went on a bit of a side tangent modding my 3d Chameleon because it was driving me nuts how unserviceable it was with out taking it apart. Luckily I found the "Chris's Basement video" where he provided the link to the STL's (Unlisted files I might add) for the good luck finding it "Open source" type product. Ok enough complaining for now. 

Anyway I found this Video Fusion had put out talking about some of the more advanced mesh tools. I did not realize that when you choose Prismatic that the conversion is indeed solid even though the faces are made up of a bunch of triangles. In the video the, he also showed using a 3 point tangent circle to locate the center of faceted holes. I just about fell out of my chair wondering why I never thought of that!

Then I got working on my drag chain setup on my Voron Build. To be honest I was kind of stuck not being able to accurately line up all the components in my tool head. I took another crack at cleaning up the Mini Stealth Burner tool head model with some of these techniques and a few other surface modeling hacks. I am very happy to report I have a properly assembled tool head in my Fusion Model now. 

Fusion.F3Z link below if you want to play with this mock up model in your design .

https://www.dropbox.com/scl/fi/guyygrif20bskddoionwf/Mini-Steath-Burner-Conversion-v16.f3z?rlkey=6r69d77och394sfpekk3vz694&dl=0

[Ducky4546]

 

 Hey now this silly thing just might work! The horizontal drag chain was inspired by a P1P printable drag chain. 

I remodeled it and noticed that the rear mount has about a 10 degree angle. This puts enough tension on the drag chain to keep it level and not crash into my AB screws. Next step to the move the tool head pivot to allow for a larger radius at min Y travel.

Link to video below 

https://www.instagram.com/p/C2nf9ZkuKQO/?igsh=M20yMDY0dnFvY3lo

Edited January 28 by Ducky4546

[Ducky4546]

I shifted the pivot over / closer to the PC board, as well as, modified the stop location on my swing link by 45 degrees. Now at the back left corner the chain wraps around pretty well. Maybe a bit tight on the radius but I don't think the printer will hang out there too much. 

Any thoughts on minimum drag chain radius? 

Tomorrow I'll update the PCV back pack to have hard stop at the right locations. But it's working pretty good 

Link below for video 

https://www.instagram.com/reel/C2quW7-upFF/?igsh=NzBpN2t4bjJnYmNi

 

Edited January 29 by Ducky4546

[Ducky4546]

 

Today's pre bus stop modeling/ printing task was to remodel the carriage mount for the mini stealth burner. I added a channel to route the Beacon wire to the drag chain neatly. 

I also added a captive Nylock but after seeing some pictures of Beacons with head certs pulled out Yikes! 

A few more refinements needed maybe some small zip ties channels too. I may put a connector somewhere on the tool head so it can be removed cleanly. 

P.S. did i mention how much I love the knippex Stripper! These USB wires are the smallest I've crimped to date. No sweat! 

[Ducky4546]

I think this mount and cable routing is going to work. Finally a use for an original I pod cable! hahah.

 

Ooof that is close but it clears. I need to get longer button heads for the beacon mount.

 

 

[atrushing]

38 minutes ago, Ducky4546 said:

Ooof that is close but it clears.

Yeah, the Beacon has a 'lot of junk in the trunk'.. If I want to make my Vorpal printer compatible with the IDM probes I will have to make the whole printer at least 8mm deeper.