Voron Replicator 2!

[atrushing]

1 hour ago, claudermilk said:

Linux can't use Fusion360?

Even AutoDesk doesn't want me using Fusion!

$ sudo snap install fusion360 --beta
error:

The publisher of snap "fusion360" has indicated that they do not consider this revision to be of production quality and that it is only meant for development or testing at this point. As a consequence this snap will not refresh automatically and may perform arbitrary system changes outside of the security sandbox snaps are generally confined to, which may put your system at risk. If you understand and want to proceed repeat the command including --devmode; if instead you want to install the snap forcing it into strict confinement repeat the command including --jailmode.

[smirk]

1 hour ago, claudermilk said:

But...WINE?

Think mileage on that may be limited. Doesn't seem to get great "reviews" at WineHQ

 

@atrushing"devmode"? What could possibly go wrong?

 

How about an entire WIndows KVM VM running under Linux (assuming you've got a hexadeca-core processor and half a terrabyte of RAM)

[atrushing]

2 minutes ago, smirk said:

"devmode"? What could possibly go wrong?

I hope nothing! It actually installed and runs!

My history is with AutoCad and Catia; I don't know how to use Fusion but I'll fiddle around a little. I certainly don't have time to re-work all of the Mini SB versions in Fusion though.

[atrushing]

3 hours ago, Ducky4546 said:

Do you have these mini stealth burner files in a format fusion 360 can work

I followed this tutorial in Fusion 360 and was able to directly convert an .slt into a body. I exported it to .step and added it to the Mini SB Orbiter 2.0 downloads if you want to see if it works for you.

The prismatic option made a body with cleaner faces but it had a lot of holes. It looks worth playing with though.

[AnJeCha]

Hello there Tim and others! I'm Andrew and this is also my first experience with Vorons.

I got a free Replicator 2x from College because they thought it was broken, when it does in fact work.

I didn't want to print ABS so I started to convert the printer to PLA. I managed to jankily get it to work but I grow more tired of the shoddy interface and dimensional inaccuracies of my setup.

I have been looking around and I'd like to create a similar Voron-ified setup to the one you are working on. I have access to printing in PLA, ABS and PETG but not a huge budget for everything. Considering the characteristic expense associated with Vorons, I'm not sure I can get everything together. I think I can get a gantry linear rail and appropriate lengths of 2020 extrusion but I'm not sure if I should get new steppers (an experienced friend recommended I did), and if so, which should I get.

I would be really grateful if I could get some help here sourcing parts!

[smirk]

4 hours ago, AnJeCha said:

Hello there Tim and others! I'm Andrew and this is also my first experience with Vorons.

Hi Andrew, Welcome aboard. You really should consider your own intro in the introductions section and meet everyone - you're kind short-changing yourself by only posting here. I didn't move your intro as it would've lost some of the context for your questions In any case it's not an issue and I'm sure everyone will do their best to help.

4 hours ago, AnJeCha said:

I'm not sure if I should get new steppers

Unless you have some significant concerns about your current motors (e.g. you know they are incredible weak or have some obvious mechanical flaw) then I personally would not bother upgrading them at this stage. You're on a budget so it's not necessarily a good outlay. You can upgrade the motors at some future point. (Granted that's a pain to do later but there's better uses for the money).

A Voron is good because the whole system is generally good (the whole is greater than the sum of the parts kinda thing) but I think a signifcant portion of that creamy goodness comes from the mechanicals and the care with which the frame has been built (The key-word is "square") over the electronics (here I'm counting steppers as electronics ). I would focus your money on llinear rails(, GT2 belts,  pulleys, extrusions and fastners (nuts'n'bolts) in roughly that order. The Voron Sourcing guide has recommendations for reasonably priced, acceptable quality components. Then take great care to make sure the frame is "square".

<Grumpy Old Man Mode>

Never be seduced (by the dark side) into thinking that you can magically turn cheapy shonky linear rails into good linear rails with a bit of cleaning and some grease. Doesn't work. A bad rail is a bad rail. Having said that you definitely do not need to pony up for HIWIN and Misumi rails, the Sourcing Guide has links to reputable suppliers of decent-enough rails

</Grumpy Old Man Mode>

[smirk]

4 hours ago, AnJeCha said:

I started to convert the printer to PLA. I managed to jankily get it to work but I grow more tired of the shoddy interface and dimensional inaccuracies of my setup.

Meant to add - you've learned a valuable lesson there

[atrushing]

5 hours ago, AnJeCha said:

I have been looking around and I'd like to create a similar Voron-ified setup

@smirk is full of very sage advise.

10 minutes ago, smirk said:

Unless you have some significant concerns about your current motors (e.g. you know they are incredible weak

One side note about the motors, try to find a datasheet on the motors you have and make sure they match Voron specs regarding current. I tried re-purposing steppers from my Prusa and got stuck in a troubleshooting loop until I realized the motors were the problem. They just weren't rated for enough current and would reach temperatures above 100 C using default Voron values and were very limited in the speed they could reach without skipping and grinding.

I have had good luck with motors from StepperOnline (Voron sourcing guide) and they go for about $10 each.

[AnJeCha]

4 hours ago, smirk said:

Hi Andrew, Welcome aboard. You really should consider your own intro in the introductions section and meet everyone - you're kind short-changing yourself by only posting here. I didn't move your intro as it would've lost some of the context for your questions In any case it's not an issue and I'm sure everyone will do their best to help.

Got it! I'll take some time to post soon!

4 hours ago, smirk said:

Unless you have some significant concerns about your current motors (e.g. you know they are incredible weak or have some obvious mechanical flaw) then I personally would not bother upgrading them at this stage. You're on a budget so it's not necessarily a good outlay. You can upgrade the motors at some future point. (Granted that's a pain to do later but there's better uses for the money).

Thanks for the advice!

 

4 hours ago, smirk said:

A Voron is good because the whole system is generally good (the whole is greater than the sum of the parts kinda thing) but I think a signifcant portion of that creamy goodness comes from the mechanicals and the care with which the frame has been built (The key-word is "square") over the electronics (here I'm counting steppers as electronics ). I would focus your money on llinear rails(, GT2 belts,  pulleys, extrusions and fastners (nuts'n'bolts) in roughly that order. The Voron Sourcing guide has recommendations for reasonably priced, acceptable quality components. Then take great care to make sure the frame is "square".

Right! As for squareness, how square is "square"? (As in the approximate tolerance I should build to)

 

4 hours ago, smirk said:

Never be seduced (by the dark side) into thinking that you can magically turn cheapy shonky linear rails into good linear rails with a bit of cleaning and some grease. Doesn't work. A bad rail is a bad rail. Having said that you definitely do not need to pony up for HIWIN and Misumi rails, the Sourcing Guide has links to reputable suppliers of decent-enough rails

Got it

[AnJeCha]

3 hours ago, atrushing said:

@smirk is full of very sage advise.

One side note about the motors, try to find a datasheet on the motors you have and make sure they match Voron specs regarding current. I tried re-purposing steppers from my Prusa and got stuck in a troubleshooting loop until I realized the motors were the problem. They just weren't rated for enough current and would reach temperatures above 100 C using default Voron values and were very limited in the speed they could reach without skipping and grinding.

I have had good luck with motors from StepperOnline (Voron sourcing guide) and they go for about $10 each.

Very well! Thank you both

[smirk]

10 hours ago, AnJeCha said:

Right! As for squareness, how square is "square"? (As in the approximate tolerance I should build to)

That's a good question. Given that 0.05 - 0.1mm will have a significant  impact on prints (things not adhering, etc) and make linear rails bind (and Voron's use a lot of them), the the glib answer is "very".

Nero3D has a good video on building "square" frames and in that he winces if you can only manage 0.5mm on a 350mm machine (and clearly the extrusions are longer than that) as you need to take remedial action.

So I imagine for a large Voron you're looking at 0.1mm - 0.2mm across the frame (if not better). NB: I've only built V0's so others may have a more definite opinion on the tolerance for larger Vorons.

[claudermilk]

For squareness, as close as you can get it. I managed to get my 250 Trident within 0.1mm. Built on the granite kitchen countertop with lots of time with the square, level, calipers and fiddling. I still had to tweak one Y-rail end by about 0.1mm after the first mesh. The time here paid off as all parts from this printer are really accurate.

For motors, I have a mix of StepperOnline (A & B) and LDO (Z kit and extruder). They have all worked flawlessly for me. StepperOnline are quite reasonably priced.

For rails, I went with the sourcing guide and Nero's suggestion and got all CNA Store rails from AliExpress. No issues with those.

[Ducky4546]

On 11/24/2022 at 1:19 PM, atrushing said:

I followed this tutorial in Fusion 360 and was able to directly convert an .slt into a body. I exported it to .step and added it to the Mini SB Orbiter 2.0 downloads if you want to see if it works for you.

The prismatic option made a body with cleaner faces but it had a lot of holes. It looks worth playing with though.

Awesome! I'll check It out. Sorry I've been down for the count. Those little kids germs are deadly.

[atrushing]

15 minutes ago, Ducky4546 said:

Those little kids germs are deadly.

Yeah, I've had a few bouts with those things.. Glad you're back in the game.

[claudermilk]

33 minutes ago, Ducky4546 said:

Those little kids germs are deadly.

Tell me about it. There's a reason I call them the little plague-mongers.

[smirk]

2 hours ago, claudermilk said:

There's a reason I call them the little plague-mongers.

It's all part of the great circle of life, "we" have kids, raise them and then they replace us by killing us off with disease or wearing us out.....and failing that they'll put us in a home or drive us out to the country-side and leave us (apparently according to my beloved daughter).

[Ducky4546]

Two steps forward and one back today. I cut down my Y rails to 200mm and even got all fancy and side wheeled them on my surface grinder. But to find out a made a mistake and the the trident gantry has MGN 9 rails in Y and I have 12s !!!!!!

Oh well this is why Fusion 360 has direct modeling right? 

I am very happy with using the side of the wheel on my surface grinder. That was a first. 

[smirk]

Very nice looking cut from a very useful piece of kit. S'funny ever since @Penatr8tor extolled the virtues of 123-blocks I just seem to be seeing them everywhere these days.

Guess every day presents new challenges so I'm glad the rails are not wasted

[Ducky4546]

Fusion direct modeling for the win! My modded carriage mount now accepts MGN 12 rails. Matter hackers abs print came out good the holes and hex sockets are a little tight off the printer but a good part otherwise. I'll mod the other part tomorrow 

[claudermilk]

Nice. Now you have really beefy Y rails.

[Ducky4546]

I got the other modded Y carriage block printed and assembled. This is the first time this contraption has been sliding on its own bearings . Now to finalize the mounting scheme.  

Video link below 

https://www.instagram.com/p/Cl4UggGOVGi/?igshid=OTRmMjhlYjM=

Edited December 7, 2022 by Ducky4546

[atrushing]

41 minutes ago, Ducky4546 said:

This is the first time this contraption has been sliding on its own bearings

That is starting to look impressive!

[Pierre52]

On 12/7/2022 at 4:46 PM, Ducky4546 said:

Fusion direct modeling for the win! My modded carriage mount now accepts MGN 12 rails. Matter hackers abs print came out good the holes and hex sockets are a little tight off the printer but a good part otherwise. I'll mod the other part tomorrow 

@Ducky4546, @smirk & @atrushing suggested I check out what you have done with MGN 12 rails.   I will be starting a build log later today.  Plan is to convert my existing home built mash up  of a VKing Pro and Seckit SK Go (photo below) into a Voron 2.4 R2.   I would like to re-use the existing V slot frame parts and  MGN 12 Rails but am aware that modifications to the Carriage hole spacing and possibly 2020 profile will be required.

I have using Fusion 360 for a few years but would describe my skill level as still fairly basic..  Certainly modifying existing STLs would be challenging.

Would you be prepared to share the F360 step files for the parts that you have re-worked?

Cheers

Peter

[Ducky4546]

3 hours ago, Pierre52 said:

Would you be prepared to share the F360 step files for the parts that you have re-worked?

Hey Peter. I'd be happy to share my modded carriage parts for the MGN 12 all I did was stretch out the mount the rest was left unchanged. @smirk@atrushingshould I add the files to the mods section? 

Edited December 12, 2022 by Ducky4546

[smirk]

16 minutes ago, Ducky4546 said:

should I add the files to the mods section? 

Absolutely, they will be of use!