Voron 2.4R2 build - Formbot - recommended upgrades/adjustments/mods build - full guide.

[mvdveer]

5 hours ago, Buurman said:

Changed some setting and compared to ELLIS his profile to just get some things updated/tested..

 

Those parts look good - may have been the grip on the filament in the extruder as you suspected.

[mvdveer]

8 hours ago, Buurman said:

I will give it another try with a new TAP build (and stronger magnets/screws)

Since you have the parts, try the optical sensor version - it may be my imagination, but I am getting much better and more consistent results with the optical switch, than the unklicky version. 

[Buurman]

13 hours ago, mvdveer said:

Since you have the parts, try the optical sensor version - it may be my imagination, but I am getting much better and more consistent results with the optical switch, than the unklicky version. 

I will surely give it a try.. maybe you just didnt build it right?  hahahaha!
First layers are quite consisted, yet I crashed my TAP/SB into a print because of a faulty end macro, and think I broke off something, and it was almost of its rail..... yet, pushed it back, and still functions..  but .. holt Cr*p...

Will rebuild and do the optical one, yet VORON team advises NOT to install the 24V anymore, since it seems to burn a lot...  

[mvdveer]

21 minutes ago, Buurman said:

s NOT to install the 24V

True. Though when I ordered there were only the 5V version, so that’s what I installed.

 

22 minutes ago, Buurman said:

will surely give it a try.. maybe you just didnt build it right?  hahahaha!

Could well be. Also wondering if the extra Manet in the probe holder has an effect as well?

[Buurman]

8 minutes ago, mvdveer said:

Though when I ordered there were only the 5V version, so that’s what I installed.

Good man  

9 minutes ago, mvdveer said:

Also wondering if the extra Manet in the probe holder has an effect as wel

Yeah, my guess is they tried that, but too much pressure is needed then? Today I get new screws with high IRON percentage, so they should be very tight on the magnet, lets see... hope to test soon.

[Buurman]

Well, taking apart your TAP SB, while in the printer, isnt great, all to replace the print that holds the screws, but doable...

Just dont try to put on the rail cart without the guide.. oh crap.. my mini balls on the floor! I dont want them there!!!

Its been a challenge, well, getting my balls off the floor I mean, the rest was doable, if done right...

I love this new base, can the old on work on this base too somehow.. I dont want to use the old two parted one... since im building a Klicky one now.. 

I dont feel a huge difference in grip though, I hoped the SB would be more fixed in lowest position, but it isnt..

Im coming back to my magnet on magnet theory.. I will need to pull out the old Tinkercad   9 year old skills!

[mvdveer]

16 minutes ago, Buurman said:

Its been a challenge, well, getting my balls off the floor I mean

Then stand up man 

[mvdveer]

16 minutes ago, Buurman said:

I will need to pull out the old Tinkercad   9 year old skills!

At least you have that skill!

[Buurman]

And, ah well, why not, requested a serial for the V2.4 "the not so dark knight" 

 

I had a much nice video, when printing the dragon, but shiiiiit, needed to added a piece of paper since Jan 2023

 

[Buurman]

V2.4957 has been baptised  

[YaaJ]

On 12/7/2022 at 2:38 PM, Buurman said:

Before putting these to parts together, I advise, run them SOFTLY over a file few times, 3/4 times, I like to lay down the file and run the part over in in the length, so you feel its flat.

This way your parts will go together much flatter, printing will always leave some higher points at the holes, etc, maybe I should be checked for obsessive behavior, is there a doctor in the house?  @mvdveer

Warning : I'm most likely reinventing the wheel...

A trick I recently "discovered" after watching a wood working video : scrapping. Didn't know it existed ! Have a hand scrapper for cast iron, didn't know wood workers were scrapping ! Of course the wood scrapper is very different.

Not having one by hand, took a ruler (very straight and sharp edges), and used it with a negative cutting angle, the way we take butter with a knife, on top of a butter brick. With ABS, it's magic ! It will remove the ridges only, and there's very little chance it will remove much material after it reaches the main surface.

Works better and much quicker than files or glass + sand paper, and leaves a better surface finish. More over, some files are not flat, on purpose, in order to compensate for the metalworker movements, that tend to round the edges (many files are slightly convex).

First tested with the Z-drives, now doing it everytime a flat surface is needed, even if it's for cosmetics only.