Voron 2.4R2 build - Formbot - recommended upgrades/adjustments/mods build - full guide.

[Buurman]

Software setup/installation.

I get most questions on this part by owners/builders/etc, its a simple setup really, but it in 3/4 places so hope to help a bit here with this part.
I will also try to share a "basic" set of files, for a Octopus 1.1 setup with Moons motors (yet, should be the same for LDO).

You will always need to customize things, but I think Klipper is very understandable.

Ok, here we go, this post may be edited to improve, so check back if needed.

1. Install Klipper on the SD card.
https://docs.mainsail.xyz/setup/mainsailos/pi-imager

I use this, for me its the most default, I know there are other options, I am just writing about what I use and know...
Download the Raspberry Pi Imager (currently v1.7.1)

Ones installed, follow whats described on the page, choose - Other specific-purpose OS - 3D printing - Mainsail OS - Mainsail version 32bit or 64 bit.
(I think I chose 32bit my last time, didnt even notice the two versions)

Choose storage - well, your inserted SD card to your PC. all kind of adapters out there for this, I use a USB thumb drive.

The click the whatsomethingy.. gear? and customize, I would add in your WIFI here and HOSTNAME, at least, the rest can follow.

Click WRITE and wait for it to pass.. including the verification. PUT THE SD CARD INTO YOUR RASPBERRY PI.. somehow it wont work without...

 

2. Get into Mainsail and make bare minimum work.
https://docs.mainsail.xyz/setup/mainsailos/first-boot

Find your IP address of the PI, I always do this by checking my DHCP in my router and find the new added hostname and IP.
Connect to that IP in a browser, and you should get a black mainsail interface with some errors, dont worry.. its "as designed". put down the gun...

First you need to create a new printer.cfg file, you can do that directly in Mainsail, under MACHINE.

Name it printer.cfg - duh..
And click on the file after creation, you will go directly into editting.

The bare minimum is to have in this file is :

[include mainsail.cfg]

A default printer.cfg for a Octopus board (and others) can be found here:

https://docs.vorondesign.com/build/software/configuration.html

Or download my printer.cfg, I will try to make it default/clean, so its a good starting point.

Link will be added later....

And Save/reboot.
Dont worry, the rest will follow, this will be your main location for all configuration of your printer.

Ok, we are leaving this for now.. it probably throws an error still on MCU something.. thats the connection to your Print board (Octopus 1.1)

3. Creating Klipper firmware for on the Octopus 1.1 board.
https://www.klipper3d.org/Installation.html#building-and-flashing-the-micro-controller

This where we end up next... follow this to create a Klipper Firmware for the Octopus 1.1 board. This will be the OS for your print board.

I will repeat things a bit here, but this page is quite clear, yet, who knows.. 

Connect to your Raspberry pi with a emulator/console interface like Putty, known for decades, still does the job right.
https://www.chiark.greenend.org.uk/~sgtatham/putty/latest.html

Insert the IP adres of your Raspberry for the connection and log on with username/password (pi/raspberry) thats the default.

Now run this command from there:

cd ~/klipper/
make menuconfig

You will get a menu, I know, the graphics are amazing!
https://docs.vorondesign.com/build/software/images/octopus_f446_klipper_menuconfig.png
https://docs.vorondesign.com/build/software/octopus_klipper.html

This should be the right choice for your Octopus 1.1.
Exit with "Q" and choose "Y" for yes on save.

You exit the 1980 interface and end up back in the 1970 console

Type 

make

This will start the feeling you are Neo from the Matrix and it ends up with building a "klipper.bin" file somewhere.

This is your new firmware, so lets now get it onto the Octopus board.

Have a second SD card ready, it can be only a few MB I think, its very compact file.

I use WinSCP for this part, and if you are reading this, thats probably the best choice for you too.
https://winscp.net/eng/downloads.php

Install and start, connect again to you Raspberry Pi IP address with username/password and you should see some folder on the right.

The file you are looking for is here - /home/pi/klipper/out

and is named "klipper.bin"

You can drag this file to the left screen if you selected your inserted SD card there.
Ones on the SD card (should be the ONLY file on there) RENAME the file to "firmware.bin" without the "" quotes.

Eject the SD card and put it into your Octopus board, yes, on this board the image on the SD goes up, instead of down on the PI.

Ones in there, board is already flashed, but I like to press the reset button anyway on the Octopus board (right above the SD card)

Take out the SD card and check by plugging it into your PC again, and see if its remaned to "FIRMWARE.CUR"

If so.. firmware installation success! if not.. let me know...something must have gone wrong and it must be you  haha! 

 

4. Connecting and updating Firmware

Go back to your Putty session, if its disconnected, you can restart it by right clicking on the top of the window.

Type:

ls /dev/serial/by-id/*

You get something horrific back like this:

/dev/serial/by-id/usb-Klipper_stm32f446xx_1F0046000550314D35323820-if00

Insert this into your Printer.cfg like this:

mcu]
##  Obtain definition by "ls -l /dev/serial/by-id/" then unplug to verify
##--------------------------------------------------------------------
serial: /dev/serial/by-id/usb-Klipper_stm32f446xx_1F0046000550314D35323820-if00
restart_method: command
##--------------------------------------------------------------------

Save/restart

This should get you so that mainsail will connect to your printerboard and give back printer information...

I am going to leave it here for now, but on request may add more information later...

Good luck, enjoy the Journey! 

[PFarm]

2 hours ago, Buurman said:

Wiring.. uhm, I am using two wire "gutters" how do you call these things in english .. guides?

Call wire duct/raceway. Can definitely can tell it not the first one you've wired up nice neat work!  That Weather Pack style connector is awesome, we use them at work along with Deutsch connector. I'll most like you with a 1 x 2pin and 1 x 3 pin Deutsch connect since I don't have a five pin. Ever consider putting a cover between the two bed edxtrusion?
 

 

 

 

 

[PFarm]

Great helpful write up on the software installation! Oh and I just got the email telling my parts for tap has been shipped!

 

Edited December 21, 2022 by PFarm

[Buurman]

14 minutes ago, PFarm said:

Great helpful write up on the software installation! Oh and I just got the email telling my parts for tap has been shipped!

Good luck, for now, I am mostly cursing at it.... works well, but the cold levelling need is I think for me a show stopper.

Never really thought about it, that its needed, makes sense, but still. Trying to find a way it works for me...

What kind of cover are you talking about? You mean Isolation? I have isolation for it, but I think I rather go for fans under it, to spread heat in the chamber, the heat under the bed is quite useful if put to right use...

[PFarm]

2 minutes ago, Buurman said:

What kind of cover are you talking about? You mean Isolation? I have isolation for it, but I think I rather go for fans under it, to spread heat in the chamber, the heat under the bed is quite useful if put to right use...

A cover that would hide the wires going to the bed. I'm doing the Ellis fan mod and Evermore eventually.

[smirk]

5 hours ago, Buurman said:

I am using two wire "gutters" how do you call these things in english .. guides

Gutter? Gutter?!?! Gutters are for waste and trash! That wiring is a thing of beauty, go with guide, channel or trunking, anything but gutter

[Buurman]

1 hour ago, smirk said:

Gutter? Gutter?!?! Gutters are for waste and trash! That wiring is a thing of beauty, go with guide, channel or trunking, anything but gutter

I hide a lot of shit in there

[mvdveer]

1 hour ago, Buurman said:

I hide a lot of shit in there

What the eye can't see does not hurt the heart - Great job in outlining this build in such detail

[Buurman]

5 hours ago, PFarm said:

A cover that would hide the wires going to the bed. I'm doing the Ellis fan mod and Evermore eventually.

I like to keep this space open as possible I think, for airflow from the front when using his bed fan mod..  

[PFarm]

@Buurman Ah yeah didn't think of that, good point!

Edited December 21, 2022 by PFarm

[Buurman]

5 hours ago, Buurman said:

Good luck, for now, I am mostly cursing at it.... works well, but the cold levelling need is I think for me a show stopper.

Never really thought about it, that its needed, makes sense, but still. Trying to find a way it works for me...

What kind of cover are you talking about? You mean Isolation? I have isolation for it, but I think I rather go for fans under it, to spread heat in the chamber, the heat under the bed is quite useful if put to right use...

Quoting myself seems weird, probably getting GOM bonus points for it  

But got the TAP working at acceptable small penalty, mostly a little more wait during start print.

So I added the code for the cold tapping only, seems like the only right choice.

Took out some code in my slicer that is added to gcode and pre-heating the extruder.

Simplified my start code to this, made sure the G28 and QGL is done before heating the extruder.

Took out (#) some old things that I dont need anymore, but will add clean nozzle stil, right before the print, or at filament change, that just makes sense.

[gcode_macro PRINT_START]
#   Use PRINT_START for the slicer starting script - please customise for your slicer of choice
gcode:
#    {% set bed_temp = params.BED|default(107)|float %}
#   {% set extruder_temp = params.EXTRUDER|default(255)|float %}
    BED_MESH_CLEAR                 ; clear mesh
    #CHAMBER_LED_ON
    G28                            ; Home the printer
    G90                            ; Use absolute coordinates
    M8
    QUAD_GANTRY_LEVEL              ; QGL3
    {% set bed_temp = params.BED|default(55)|float %}
    {% set extruder_temp = params.EXTRUDER|default(210)|float %}
    M117 Heating..
    M140 S{bed_temp}               ; Start bed heating
    M190 S{bed_temp}               ; Wait for bed to reach temperature
    M109 S{extruder_temp}          ; Set and wait for nozzle to reach temperature
#    QUAD_GANTRY_LEVEL              ; QGL
    #BED_MESH_PROFILE LOAD=HOT      ; load mesh
#    CLEAN_NOZZLE
#    SET_FAN_SPEED FAN=exhaust_fan SPEED=0.40

I must admit, my very first print, even before pit or fine tuning.. Its the cleanest smoothest sides on a print that I ever had....  probably mostly because of Revo hotend? 

[mvdveer]

@BuurmanI think that is the right decision though only time and print quality will tell. You can always run the first layer squish test again with the above settings and manually adjust the Z-Offset. One thing I will miss, I think is AUTOZ Calibration. Still building mine and will follow your example. Just time poor at present

[mvdveer]

Enjoying this build diary of yours - getting many ideas which I will implement in my next build.

Very detailed and thorough explanations, appreciate it. But then I expect that from a fellow Dutchie.  Attention to detail to the point of stubbornness. 

8 minutes ago, Buurman said:

Quoting myself seems weird, probably getting GOM bonus points for it

You finally arrived at GOM pinnacle! Top of the food chain now 

[PFarm]

@mvdveer totally agree @Buurman build detail is epic for us new to the build game. Some say that forum are dead but I love this format much easier to find the info you need and it people like Buurman that are willing to share their knowledge with other is what community support is all about.

Edited December 22, 2022 by PFarm

[claudermilk]

The rest of we GOMs need to up our game! @Buurman is now having conversations with himself!

Despite my trials with a couple of faulty Revo heaters, I think these are great hotends. They do what E3D claims; fast, accurate heating, stupid easy cold nozzle swaps. I get great results from mine. I've played with 0.25, 0.4, and 0.6 nozzles so far. Got the 0.8 to mess about with and the 0.15 will be here Christmas Eve for me to play with next year.

[mvdveer]

12 minutes ago, claudermilk said:

The rest of we GOMs need to up our game! @Buurman is now having conversations with himself!

Not only that - he is answering his own questions - oh dear

13 minutes ago, claudermilk said:

I think these are great hotends.

Cannot agree more. Just a pitty there are NO Obxidian nozzles about (tried the world over) - and no ETA either. Think e3d got caught off guard with he demand and popularity of the Revo range. No ETA on these either.

[smirk]

1 hour ago, Buurman said:

Quoting myself seems weird,

Not at all, it just ensures a high-qualtiy conversation and proves you're not wrong.

[Buurman]

First of all, thanks for the kind words guys! really appreciated, just trying to help out others, its a jungle out there , and maybe it helps, nothing here is set in stone, or PLA, ABS or ASA.. for that matter.. 

37 minutes ago, claudermilk said:

I think these are great hotends.

I think im starting to agree, I do notice more stringing than my Dragon, so I have to play with some settings, any advices Revo Goms? also big retraction and end macro I read somewhere to make changing easier?
I like that you can see your nozzle!!!! damn, this is nice again instead of looking at a heatblock/silicon sock...

21 minutes ago, mvdveer said:

there are NO Obxidian nozzles about (

I pre-ordered (3DJake), but doesnt seem like its gonna happen this year.. but not in a hurry, I have 0.2-0.4-0.6-0.8 in brass..

[Buurman]

havent done any tuning, except offset Z, with TAP its: 

 z_offset = -0.230

 But.. hell, smoothest sides ever.. but still things to improve, I think I need to up the top layer flow a bit still...

Ideas are welcome

[smirk]

4 hours ago, Buurman said:

Ideas are welcome

For clarity, related to the prints/TAP?

[Buurman]

19 minutes ago, smirk said:

For clarity, related to the prints/TAP?

lets keep it at that, otherwise this thread will never end  

[claudermilk]

I recall that E3D made some statement about an issue with the supply chain for Obxidian. Less surprise at demand, more surprised by their suppliers falling through on them.

I have a 10mm retract in my print_end, and a similar extrude in print_start. Basically anywhere I'm moving filament I do that. E3D recommends 18mm & I think I need to bump mine back up to that. 

@Buurman it looks like you need to hit up the Ellis tuning guide for top layers. You appear to have underextrusion going on.

[Buurman]

I always forget how much work the panels are, skirts are ok, but the panels...

I went for the 3000 magnets needed - magnetic panels.. and oh boy..  One of the 3 top mods!

Easy to print, even the smallest part never got loose from the bed, or any other challenge, well thought of..

Put them in your frame, sometimes from the middle is easier and slide them.. use the added tool for corner distance.. use a size 3 tool to fix the printed hammer.. (not rounded one) feels so satifying!

On my first one I used some force, it got bend a little, middle of the frame is just a little wider sometimes, so insert them there and slide..

I like to put the magnets on, and then put on the printer corner piece with some glue to the magnet or in the print.

Now, tape to the corners to stick the panel, easy stuff, fits perfectly...

Cant wait to hang my new aluminium back panel ... 

Ah, now.. have to run to the family... Christmas time.

[Buurman]

For the skirt and mostly the usb connector… clearly need to look for a mod for front skirt.. 

[smirk]

6 hours ago, Buurman said:

Ah, now.. have to run to the family.

The human family? Not the Voron family. Hope they forgave you