Voron 2.4R2 build - Formbot - recommended upgrades/adjustments/mods build - full guide.

[Buurman]

Getting closer to the real end... (if thats possible.. really.. since I already have 3 more mods on mind..

So hung the front windows yesterday with a new hinges mod (for me)

And I gave them a 5 star rating, since.. well, this now belongs to my top 5 mods, possibly on spot 3. (not that it matters)

Love the backdrop panel on my printer, will take a better picture later, but I took a good picture before it went in my printer here: 

 

Now the printer is printing parts for two new Vorons 2.4 so other mods will be a little slower, yet the Ellis bed fans will go in tomorrow I hope, I noticed chamber heating is much slower without fans...

 

 

 

[Buurman]

Anyone experience with the BTT 5" making these colors as screensaver? 

I never had this before, it just went dark as standby, this is very annoying  

[smirk]

4 hours ago, Buurman said:

making these colors

At least it's orange......

[Buurman]

3 hours ago, smirk said:

At least it's orange......

No.. its doing the whole rainbow one by one... making me nuts!!! hahaha

 

PS.. orange is the best of them... yes

[mvdveer]

7 hours ago, Buurman said:

Anyone experience with the BTT 5" making these colors as screensaver? 

No, can't say I have.

The only help I can offer is the following thread I came across. Maybe something in there

https://github.com/bigtreetech/OctoBTT/issues/12

 

[Stadi]

Are you sure it's coming from the BTT and not somehow from the Klipperscreen or the Pi?

[Buurman]

21 minutes ago, Stadi said:

Are you sure it's coming from the BTT and not somehow from the Klipperscreen or the Pi?

Sure, most likely... but then... did a default installation, need to find the setting, its exactly this:

 

And this:

https://github.com/jordanruthe/KlipperScreen/issues/553

 

Trying turning off DPMS, I know in 5 minutes, but didnt think it helps, since I tried it before I think... what IS DPMS anyhow...

 

[Stadi]

Like a Discolight, I'm sure some people envy you when I see some Voron lights 

[PFarm]

15 minutes ago, Buurman said:

 

 

Trying turning off DPMS, I know in 5 minutes, but didnt think it helps, since I tried it before I think... what IS DPMS anyhow...

Display Power Management Signaling (DPMS)

[Buurman]

Ah, thx! 

2 minutes ago, PFarm said:

Display Power Management Signaling (DPMS)

I turned it off and its gone, now lets see if its saved after a reboot, I read it sometimes doesnt, but that can be fixed too..

For now, no more disco.. pfew!!

[smirk]

51 minutes ago, Buurman said:

no more disco.

Damn! I'd just got the flared jump suit out of the wardrobe.....oh well, back you go (I know it'll come back into fashion) but I'm keeping the medalion!

[Buurman]

8 hours ago, smirk said:

Damn! I'd just got the flared jump suit out of the wardrobe

Had a very mental picture  

Soon baby... soon!

[Buurman]

For less serious topics…

have an extrusion issue I guess.. had to cancel a 10 hour print half way, since I noticed the missing layers…

first I thought temperature, but when removing them I see they were there all along…

First thing I test is this extruder “distancing” screw, this very small screw on-site your cw2 for distancing your gears. I think I may have been a bit too enthousiastic on having them run loose, I think when filament get hotter in the chamber, it’s easier to start slipping.

at least that’s my theory… running test print now.

I turned it tighter so the gears come closer, more pressure on the filament gears so more teathing.

[Buurman]

hard too see on above photos but the sides are actually smooth, yet missing full parts/layers. the light makes it look like its bumpy all over, yet its not.

The infill is also messy... changing to grid again, forgot to change it back.

For the Revo, any advise on temperature, are printing temperatures the same as with a heatblock (like dragon) or should I lower/higher temperatures?
I have the feeling they dont need to be changed, but just checking with others who have Revo experiences.

I am also suspecting the TAP a little, that the magnets somehow are not strong enough and the nozzle gets bumped up to easy, instead of squashing the filament, this way bumps get higher and higher, specially during infill, you will always cross dried/harder lines..

Ah well... troubleshooting....

 

[smirk]

 

Well if I needed more convincing to leave my 2.4 in the attic, you've scared convinced me.

1 hour ago, Buurman said:

any advise on temperature,

Stefan's (CNCKitchen) review on the Revo was interesting, beyond pointing out that the heat-up time is way inaccurate (not an issue as I'm sure you heat soak everything for ages) he did indicate the final "stable" temperate is 3C below the reported temperature. Dunno if that would make much of a difference.

However, I think you're perhaps onto something with the TAP perhaps introducing nozzle variability. Is there any way of monitoring the switch in the TAP to see if it's falsely triggered or is it not moving enough?

[Buurman]

I think the sensor is disabled during printing, but maybe its just my case and normally the magnets should hold it in place very well. I still wonder why they didnt use magnet on magnet connection, I think there is space enough.

Maybe that was too strong? but maybe my iron screws are not good enough (bad enough) to hold it very strong, it doenst feel like I really need to push it, to release it, but maybe that not the purpose.

Experiment.. 

I did reprint some parts and they look perfect now, so 3 things can be the cause...

The adjustment screw (this test and so.. its fixed)

The temperature, long print on 60 degrees chamber, may cause overheating of the extruder motor

ABS+ since my test now was in PLA, so i didnt have to heat up everything so long every time I run a test..
I really dont like ABS anyhow, why I bought 2 spindles of it, i dont know, it stinks...  even though I think its more flex than ASA.

But for me, I keep it all ASA from now on...

I do feel like I may go back to a Klicky setup with fixed SB, I will give it another try with a new TAP build (and stronger magnets/screws) but I feel I hear it running over infill and normally I dont have that, and I hate this noise.. since its often the sound before a break of the bed..

[smirk]

1 hour ago, Buurman said:

The temperature, long print on 60 degrees chamber, may cause overheating of the extruder motor

Wouldn't think it was that, 60C should be in the operational range for a stepper, anytime I've seen heat related issues with steppers it's been the controller rather than the motor (unless it was a really cheap stepper? ) besides those lines and wiggles look too "consistent" to be a stepper randomly skipping steps and extruding oddly (but that might just be the flattering photography). Unless you've got CANBUS and the motor driver is too toasty being in the chamber as well.....

[claudermilk]

What voltage are you running the CW2 motor? I started at 0.4A on mine and ran into underextrusion skipping, I ultimately ended up at 0.6A and it's not been an issue since.

I've only used Revo in the Trident, and switch to one on my Prusa Mini. I haven't run into any issue with heat (except for the couple of failed heaters). They heat up quickly and are rock solid once at temp. I ran the full Ellis tune (Github version) and my temps are within the manufacturers' stated ranges, so I don't see anything odd with the temps. I also didn't really change them from stock settings on the Mini. IMHO the claims of temp issues are overblown on Revo.

[Wick]

2 hours ago, Buurman said:

erm, do you print 45°? I only ask because the infill layers seem to use the same angle and the top layers I see here are not very well, maybe an extrusion multiplier issue?

Edited January 2, 2023 by Wick

[Buurman]

38 minutes ago, claudermilk said:

What voltage are you running the CW2 motor? I started at 0.4A on mine and ran into underextrusion skipping, I ultimately ended up at 0.6A and it's not been an issue since.

I've only used Revo in the Trident, and switch to one on my Prusa Mini. I haven't run into any issue with heat (except for the couple of failed heaters). They heat up quickly and are rock solid once at temp. I ran the full Ellis tune (Github version) and my temps are within the manufacturers' stated ranges, so I don't see anything odd with the temps. I also didn't really change them from stock settings on the Mini. IMHO the claims of temp issues are overblown on Revo.

Im running it 0.55 and its a Moons by Mellow (high heat resistant) so I am not thinking of heat..

And slipping by power also not, but thanks, because it could have been that, I just copy/past my configs from previous builds that I "optimized".

27 minutes ago, Wick said:

maybe an extrusion multiplier issue

Ah yes, this could be, I havent tuned much yet, so that part I still need to do. It does look worse on photo than reality, but yes, I seen it too. I do print 45 degrees by default yes.

[Buurman]

Changed some setting and compared to ELLIS his profile to just get some things updated/tested..

I think its a bit too fast on the travel for my taste, feel like the printer wants to walk away, but beside that.. 

better result...

 

[smirk]

Those pieces look good.

[Buurman]

53 minutes ago, smirk said:

Those pieces look good.

I agree  some slight stringing, almost like cotton candy.. if I can get rid of that, perfect..

[mvdveer]

10 hours ago, Buurman said:

For the Revo, any advise on temperature, are printing temperatures the same as with a heatblock (like dragon) or should I lower/higher temperatures?

My standard for ABS and ABS+ (eSun) is bed 100, hotend 240. 

[mvdveer]

6 hours ago, smirk said:

Wouldn't think it was that, 60C should be in the operational range for a stepper, anytime I've seen heat related issues with steppers it's been the controller rather than the moto

Should not be the 60C as I run my bed at 100 - 110C, Chamber gets up to 47.9C. Extrusion would be my guess