Voron 2.4R2 build - Formbot - recommended upgrades/adjustments/mods build - full guide.

[claudermilk]

I've toyed with the idea of swapping to the ramalama front idlers. I think I might as well go for it when I have the printer torn apart for the Tap. I see his BOM calls for 18mm long pins, you are using 30mm there?

[Buurman]

30 minutes ago, claudermilk said:

I've toyed with the idea of swapping to the ramalama front idlers. I think I might as well go for it when I have the printer torn apart for the Tap. I see his BOM calls for 18mm long pins, you are using 30mm there?

Think you wont be sorry, you are right thanks for pointing it out, I corrected it, in the front idlers they are 18mm. The  28/30mm ones are for the AB mounts.

[Buurman]

GANTRY!

Page 82-107 of the manual.

Again I am using pinned versions of the mounts, but dont worry about it too much, the default ones using bolts are same setup, I just dont use the toothed bearings.
I just like to punish myself a little more than most people... I guess.

Good thing to remember, when using the Ramalamamamlama front idlers, normally you have 2 M5 bolts holding the belt, but that changes with these to m3/m5 like on the top, also on the bottom now. So you need to take out m5 drop in nuts, and replace them with a M3 and a M5. Bottom and TOP are the same!

Putting together the gantry is a satisfying thing, and its likely the most important part you are putting together, so check everything 3 times, do all the bearings run smoothly, did I forget any bolts, etc...

Tighten the X mounts very well, but again, check if your not locking any bearings from running smootly. Ah.. this carbon looks satisfying, and it feel nice to the touch...

 

Ok, back to work...

 

Ones you tightened the X rail to the runners, already check if you can move it from front to back, I bet you cannot.
You need to add length to the back of the gantry to make the X rail fit in between, most likely, loosen them and pull out the frame part from the printed AB mounts, on each side a bit.

 

Ones you have done this, you can move the X rail freely from front to back, without resitance.

I like to do ths now, since when it hangs in the frame, its a little harder always, you may need to adjust it still, but most of the correction is already done now, probably you are good already.

 

[mvdveer]

King of the build diaries - I am loving this!

[PFarm]

@Buurman So I've taken your recommendation and got the pins coming for the front idlers and pins/bearing to replace the toothed idler on the xy. Are the STL's for pin mod on this site in the mod section?

[Buurman]

All the belts!!

I think there are really no things to add compared to the manual, its very detailed, with only one common mistake, the path of the belt.
Doublecheck you didnt go around the plastic!! most common mistake on the AB belt on the back at the motors, but somehow sometimes also managed at Z.
Just look and feel you didnt go around anything, and always move the belt before attaching it, it it feels smoothe, resistance (motor) is normal, but smooth.

With the front idlers above, it only takes me 15 minutes to put in the AB belts, bend the belt a little before pushing it in the front idler, and it comes out right where it should.

I dont use tyraps to hang the gantry on the frame, but I use tape on 25cm/30cm height, I dont like working with the tyraps/tiraps/t-raps .. whatever..

Loose your Z top idlers so that you have enough space to tighten them.
Just dont add strength to the belt when screwing them on, leave them... hard to say but not too loose, not too tight, play around with the first one you do.
You should be able to get the belt very tight using the top Z idler halfway, it goes fast, so again, no need to really pull your belt with the initial tightening.

Experiment, I would say.

First new MOD for me, the TAP endplate, I would call this a mod on its own, I love this thing already.

The belt montage is absolutely PERFECT, where with the old way you need to screw on the plate to fix the belt, you now can fix the belt before fixing it to the rail.

Again, not tight, there is enough room in the Front idlers to tighten the belts.

Only one good tool in my opinion for measuring/adjusting tension of the belts and getting the same tension (most important)

Sorry for the crappy picture, can seem to focus on this color

https://www.printables.com/model/115460-belt-tension-gauge-source-file-included/files

Print it in PETG!

Thats all, doublecheck your work to feel if it runs (with resistance of motors) but smoothly, no weird noises, no sudden stops, but you will feel the motor resistans and it may feel a little variable in resistance, but just a bit.

[Buurman]

Printhead/Duct.

Ok, in my case TAP with mechanical Unklicky on a Afterburner with Revo hotend.

This is not necessary best practice, I chose this to experiment, and build a working TAP without PCB or optical sensor.
If this works well.... its time for a evil laugh I think, where everyone (including me) is waiting for their V2 TAP kit, this may be genius and simple.
I am a big fan of less electronics, if you can solve the same issue, with same results (or good enough) mechanical, I would chose that, since it less likely to get strange issues

No Idea why the next 2 photos keep being upside down, I tried reversing them, upload and they are still upside down and I managed to get grease on the print, so it looks like its been ogre'd. 

 

So the basics of the unklicky for TAP is a floating printpart, that rests on 2 screws onto your railcar. with a wirre to each screw, it opens and closes the circuit just like the normal Klicky does, but this doenst need a micro switch. its helt in place and pulled down by two magnets in the klicky, so it want to go towards the cart.

Its lifted only by the TAP upwards movement, I measured it many times, and im after filing, sanding, adjusting screws (this is a absolute need with this) on a very stable contact with only 1 Ohm of resitance, comparable to the normal klicky with the micro switch solution, since current goes through the magnets there.

Putting the TAP toghether does take some feeling I must say, of course, its new to me too, but i do believe it takes a little more "feeling" than a normal setup.
Make sure everything is running smooth.

Follow the normal instructions I would say, I have no experience yet what works best, but after putting the TAP together, the rest is a normal Stealthburner, fits perfectly.

Putting the Revo in helps if you printed the parts for a REVO!! (ahum... I didnt..hahahaha!) - printing 3 hours and back to work!!

I love that for the first time, I can see my NOZZLE!!!! already a big win!

I guess I be starting on wiring/electronics soon...

[Buurman]

1 hour ago, PFarm said:

@Buurman So I've taken your recommendation and got the pins coming for the front idlers and pins/bearing to replace the toothed idler on the xy. Are the STL's for pin mod on this site in the mod section?

These are the pinned mods for everything original, but also the original front idlers are in this, and you wont need those.

https://github.com/VoronDesign/VoronUsers/tree/master/printer_mods/hartk1213/Voron2.4_Trident_Pins_Mod

These are the pinned versions of the Rmalalalalala front idles, they are pinned by default, guess there is no space for bolts in there...

I used the 5mm alternative, I think it had to do with diameter of the pins I ordered.

https://github.com/Ramalama2/Voron-2-Mods/tree/main/Front_Idlers

 

[claudermilk]

1 hour ago, Buurman said:

I love that for the first time, I can see my NOZZLE!!!! already a big win!

Wait until you fire it up and the LEDs light up. So you can REALLY see your nozzle while it prints!

[Buurman]

Before I post my full wiring part, I wanted to share this....

BUT, I have to WARN some of you... you know.. you PCB boys.. what you are about to see, is a FULL wired Stealthburner, with TAP, without any PCB or sensor used... 
Please dont continue reading if you cant handle this.....

I just think its so pretty...

 

Closes easily, yes, I havent used a screw yet to prove that...

And.. it TAPS!

20221216_175911000_iOS.MOV

 

 

[PFarm]

7 minutes ago, Buurman said:

 

BUT, I have to WARN some of you... you know.. you PCB boys.. what you are about to see, is a FULL wired Stealthburner, with TAP, without any PCB or sensor used... 
Please dont continue reading if you cant handle this.....

 

LOL the warning label!

[Buurman]

Just now, PFarm said:

LOL the warning label!

I wanted to add... emotional support is available against a fair rate, contact you local FDM specialist  

[PFarm]

@Buurman I have a question regarding the front idler bearing assembly you need to use the 5mm shims and not the washers correct. Looks like a tight fit to get shims in.

[atrushing]

1 hour ago, Buurman said:

And.. it TAPS!

You're trying to make me jealous! If you keep this up, you might force me into modding a Mini SB Tap

[Buurman]

2 hours ago, PFarm said:

@Buurman I have a question regarding the front idler bearing assembly you need to use the 5mm shims and not the washers correct. Looks like a tight fit to get shims in.

also 2 shims, you can push them between, its very possible to do, and from the hole center it with whatever, screwdriver, etc. then push pin trough.

Still way easier than the default ones and the shims.. hahaha.. 

[Buurman]

32 minutes ago, atrushing said:

You're trying to make me jealous! If you keep this up, you might force me into modding a Mini SB Tap

Oooooh, yes that would be awesome!

[Buurman]

2 hours ago, PFarm said:

@Buurman I have a question regarding the front idler bearing assembly you need to use the 5mm shims and not the washers correct. Looks like a tight fit to get shims in.

addition to this, one side is slightly larger than the other, so if you find you cant get the 2 (halfs) F695 bearings in, you are on the wrong side.

[PFarm]

Thanks I had notice that it was easier to get the bearing in from that side, I'm assuming that the side you insert the shims as well? There are two screws used to apply the belt tension is this tricker to adjust then the single screw in the new front bearing setup?

 

Edited December 16, 2022 by PFarm

[Buurman]

14 minutes ago, PFarm said:

Thanks I had notice that it was easier to get the bearing in from that side, I'm assuming that the side you insert the shims as well?

yes, also more space to insert the shims, and yet, do that AFTER the bearings, otherwise its ... well.. you figure it out.. but woudnt try.

Bearings first, they dont fall out, so their nice and set, but still there is space on top and bottom for a shim each side, just push it in and like I said, center it from the hole.

Push the pin in, help it to find its way, by moving the bearings a bit, and when you get to the shim on the other side, its helpfull to put a little preasure on the shim with the pin and then center it from the hole.

Also, thinking of this procedure, TEST before if the pin fits the bearings!! I have pins sometimes that differ a freaking micro mm or something, and cant get them trough the bearings... I sand/file them by putting the pin into a electric screwdiver thingy, and spin it, while sanding/filing it.

Dont take off too much, it should be a snug fit, there should not be space between pin and bearing...

I ordered this little hammer, just for this  https://nl.aliexpress.com/item/1005001412482195.html?spm=a2g0o.order_list.order_list_main.11.765879d2Mf3siW&gatewayAdapt=glo2nld

[mvdveer]

9 hours ago, Buurman said:

And.. it TAPS!

Well done - love to see it in action

[Buurman]

Just did my first UNTAP tapped QGL after wiring without magic smoke...

I will post up my setup guide, and on wiring....

But had to post the joy of this TAP feast! and stupid accurate btw, for something.. without pcb or sensor...

video is probably too large, I will try...

All probe tries managed to stay in tolerance within 3 tries, so so strange peaks. will test it further of course. but looks pretty cool.

should turn on my leds too...

20221220_203522000_iOS.MOV

[mvdveer]

How exciting! Now I have to get rid of the optical sensors I ordered. Great work and an inspiration to us TAP procrastinators .

You have inspired me to go down this rabbit hole

[PFarm]

Cool vid! Got my kit on order from USA supplier. Love your colour combo. What filament is your accent?

[Buurman]

14 hours ago, PFarm said:

Cool vid! Got my kit on order from USA supplier. Love your colour combo. What filament is your accent?

I use Polymaker black ASA and REAL filament RED ABS (its a Dutch brand) 

[Buurman]

Electronics and Wiring!

Well, electronics mounting on the DIN rail.. would be crazy to have advise here I guess... or maybe not...
Yes, it would, the only thing I change here is the default PI mount to a sturdy version with 2 clips, I hate the wobbly default one...
Added it to this post, with the name you can probably find the original maker, sorry, dont know anymore.
You do need to print a extra pcb din clip! but you wont be sorry.

Wiring.. uhm, I am using two wire "gutters" how do you call these things in english .. guides?
I stick them top and bottom, and drill in the middle a hole for the hole to the bed.

These are 46cm wide, and 3cm wide, and 6cm high. but you can go higher, lower, not much wider.
the bottom one holds most wires, the top one almost nothing, but later I will add the TFT flat cable to it also.
AND YES, made a mistake on the motor connectors, had some unexpected movements hahaha, figured it out quickly, easy to make a mistake here.
The manual has it detailed, but its so easy to get motor positions wrong, and in my case, 4th slot should have any motor connected.

The wiring on top:

Its an all black wiring harness made from (difficult name) but something like TEFLON, by Fermio.
Wires are thin because the isolation can be very thin, have good connectors, almost no rewiring needed, but still some, fans and probe need other connectors, but its an expensive, but valuable kit.

Advises ah maybe two...

First figure out how to put in the wire rail, since you need to turn around one side of the ends. and make sure you dont put it in wrong way around so it can bent "up" if you put it in right, it cannot bent upwards, I had this on my first Voron build , and seen it on others build out there, it just doenst look right to me..
(It may be better for your wires though, since they have a bigger radius to bend over... but to me.. it looks wrong)

On the bottom, all wires to the Octopus board go behind the power supply, straight line, not a bulk!
Extra length you leave in the wire gutters/gray thingies..

I didnt go for the Wago behind the bed, its an personal choice, I dont like how it looks and I will be using these from now on:

On Ali

Yes, you need 5 wires. 2 for bed heating (with safety inbetween), 2 for thermo and one earth wire. 

Thats it... next, software setup.

beefy_raspberry_bracket.stl