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[EDIT: this is not a step-by-step guide! I'm logging information as I encounter issues, so it's best to take this body of information as a whole for comprehension before extracting what you need. YMMV ] Back when I built my Voron, I did so with a 3B+ and Bullseye 32bit. LTS support is ending in August 2026 (soonTM) and I had a Pi4 that was freed up, so I'm going through a device migration process to Trixie 64bit. I figured I'd catalog what I'm doing for anyone else that might be considering doing the same, and there's a lot here that can be cribbed for general backup purposes... used Raspberry Pi Imager to write Trixie 64bit (lite) with the appropriate net/locale customizations to new sd card for Pi4 (new system name) install apt updates, install git, KIAUH (Klipper, Moonraker, Mainsail, Crowsnest, KlipperScreen, Autotune), reptyr, KAMP, Shake&Tune, Cartographer probe My preferred cloud backup method is in the official docs--https://docs.vorondesign.com/community/howto/EricZimmerman/BackupConfigToGithub.html My local backups are handled with UrBackup Since I'm able to have both Pi online at the same time, transferring data is very straightforward with WinSCP I installed all the packages listed earlier with defaults, setup the github backup and performed the initial backup of ~/printer_data/config/ before overwriting with files from the original setup Connect to each Pi with the same user you would for SSH for good measure, on the original Pi, copy the entire ~/ directory to your PC if you'd like (Mainsail has a lock file or 2 that can't be copied and can be skipped) note that ~/ is a shortcut to the base home-directory of the logged-in user If you want to have all your old gcode on the new Pi, you can copy over the full contents of ~/printer_data/gcodes/ printing history is in ~/printer_data/database/ note that there may be multiple other files in the original location (*.mdb) but the new install only needs the moonraker-sql.db file Next step is to deal with the hardware (Pi or sd swap) (getting what's in my head written down now; as soon as I'm able to pull my printer onto the workbench and take care of the swap, I'll update this post) .

Ah.. nothing beats a short and snappy title Building my 10th V2.4R2 or so, and this one is 100% for myself instead of selling it. Most things I be using here on top of the default Formbot kit, and adjustments to the default print parts are what I use in all my builds, this one has just some little extra or lets call it the "supreme" package... its still a Formbot and not sourced the parts by myself, but its a good quality kit, affordable, and they ship fast, if you like to build your own. I sell Voron builds, fully build, so I get quite a lot of questions, people who want to build themself a Voron, and I am a BIG supporter! Thats the whole idea of Voron. But I also know persons who are now trying to build their Voron for 3 months now, and still dont have it working properly, or at all... So... Hope this Diary/Guide is going to help you, I will try to make the parts that are most asked about better explained... I also get my information from others, there are way more experienced people out there than me, who wrote up great things, I will just link that way when we get there... What will this build look like, im based in the Netherlands Europe, so some links my not be useful, sorry. PS. I am NOT associated with any of these shops, dont earn anything on the links, etc, its just my build, advice is always welcome! Formbot Kit, this is where I order them - https://www.formbot3d.com/ - In europe? choose sending from Czech, and on Paypal payment, check the payment options to pay in Dollars, and let your bank do the conversion rate, for me this is about 70 bucks cheaper, paypal is expensive, shipping is free and there is no import, delivery in a week or so. This time im going for the Revo Voron, but normally I use the Phaetus Dragon HF/SF. Fermio Wire kit, nothing really wrong with the default wiring, yet its bulky and had breaking wires ones. Fermio wire kit is expensive, but awesome. https://fermio.xyz/fermio-labs-gmbh/voron2-wire-harness-btt-octopus-350-spec/ - about 125 euro, all Helukabel Heluflon®-fep-6y wires.. uhm, yeah, whatever, its good! Keenovo bed heater mat - Nothing wrong with the default Formbot heater mat, I just want to try this one: https://fermio.xyz/keenovo-international-group-limited/keenovo-silicone-heatmat-340-x-340-mm-230-v-ac-500-w/ - its a bit larger. Stealthburner with leds, I am a lazy ass, so I buy the LED string - https://fermio.xyz/fermio-labs-gmbh/stealthburner-rgb-led-kit/ its only 6 bucks, and has the thin high quality teflon wires, I just cant beat that price, by burning my finger on clumsy soldering... I am using different prints than the default ones where there are bearings used, especially toothed bearings.. I use smooth pins instead of M5 bolts and smooth bearings instead of toothed for this you need adjusted prints, some amazing guys made this already, and I will link to them later. Smooth pins are available on Aliexpress, or whatever you like. Then some default other wonderful mods, Klicky, PurgeBucket, other Front Idlers, Stealthburner, belt covers, Panzerball feet and 5" Touch display. Using Extrudr ASA Filament (big fan) but I am not stuck to it, I just dont use the cheap stuff, never been successful for me... I may go for another Red Bull theme here... Fermio custom Aluminium Composite panels. - https://fermio.xyz/fermio-labs-gmbh/voron2-v2.4r2-aluminium-composite-panels-350-spec-black-logo/ Other extra things may follow....along the way.. INDEX - to direct you directly to the posts and avoid all the useless comments here Setting up the frame(work) - Click here to go directly there inside this post. Setting up Z Rails, mounts/feet and motors and Z idlers. Page 22-51 in the manual. Click here to go directly to the post in this thread.... A/B Drives and Front Idlers. Page 62-81 in the manual - Click here to go directly to the post AB drives - Front Idlers Gantry! Page 82-107 - Click here to go directly to the post - Gantry! Belts Z and AB. Page 108-146 - Click here to directly go to the BELTS post.... Electronics and Wiring! Click here to go directly to the electronics/wiring post Software setup Klipper/Mainsail (sorry my choice!) - Click here to go directly to Software installation guide Follow this topic if you want updates!

I built my Voron 2.4 almost 2 years ago during the height of the lockdown. It's an amazing device (Z Offset inconsistencies ) with fantastic print quality. So having just stated I have no reason to upgrade it, I've been wondering if any of the improved parts from r1 and r2 would be worth upgrading to. I probably won't bother reprinting the skirts unless there is a compelling reason to do so. Here are some of the upgrades I'm considering while I'm re-printing later version parts: Is changing to the StealthBurner worthwhile? Is the MGN12 x axis rail upgrade worthwhile? Klicky Probe (will this get rid of the X-Offset annoyances)? Hall effect endstop These are the "main" parts I see that have changed from the original V2.4: V2.4r1 (May 4, 2021) V2.4r2 (Feb 23, 2022)