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Voron 2.4R2 build - Formbot - recommended upgrades/adjustments/mods build - full guide.


Buurman

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Ah.. nothing beats a short and snappy title 😛

Building my 10th V2.4R2 or so, and this one is 100% for myself instead of selling it.

Most things I be using here on top of the default Formbot kit, and adjustments to the default print parts are what I use in all my builds, this one has just some little extra or lets call it the "supreme" package... its still a Formbot and not sourced the parts by myself, but its a good quality kit, affordable, and they ship fast, if you like to build your own.

I sell Voron builds, fully build, so I get quite a lot of questions, people who want to build themself a Voron, and I am a BIG supporter! Thats the whole idea of Voron.
But I also know persons who are now trying to build their Voron for 3 months now, and still dont have it working properly, or at all... 

So... Hope this Diary/Guide is going to help you, I will try to make the parts that are most asked about better explained... I also get my information from others, there are way more experienced people out there than me, who wrote up great things, I will just link that way when we get there...

What will this build look like, im based in the Netherlands Europe, so some links my not be useful, sorry.
PS. I am NOT associated with any of these shops, dont earn anything on the links, etc, its just my build, advice is always welcome!

  1. Formbot Kit, this is where I order them - https://www.formbot3d.com/ - In europe? choose sending from Czech, and on Paypal payment, check the payment options to pay in Dollars, and let your bank do the conversion rate, for me this is about 70 bucks cheaper, paypal is expensive, shipping is free and there is no import, delivery in a week or so.
  2. This time im going for the Revo Voron, but normally I use the Phaetus Dragon HF/SF.
  3. Fermio Wire kit, nothing really wrong with the default wiring, yet its bulky and had breaking wires ones. Fermio wire kit is expensive, but awesome. https://fermio.xyz/fermio-labs-gmbh/voron2-wire-harness-btt-octopus-350-spec/ - about 125 euro, all Helukabel Heluflon®-fep-6y wires.. uhm, yeah, whatever, its good!
  4. Keenovo bed heater mat - Nothing wrong with the default Formbot heater mat, I just want to try this one: https://fermio.xyz/keenovo-international-group-limited/keenovo-silicone-heatmat-340-x-340-mm-230-v-ac-500-w/ - its a bit larger.
  5. Stealthburner with leds, I am a lazy ass, so I buy the LED string - https://fermio.xyz/fermio-labs-gmbh/stealthburner-rgb-led-kit/ its only 6 bucks, and has the thin high quality teflon wires, I just cant beat that price, by burning my finger on clumsy soldering...
  6. I am using different prints than the default ones where there are bearings used, especially toothed bearings.. I use smooth pins instead of M5 bolts and smooth bearings instead of toothed for this you need adjusted prints, some amazing guys made this already, and I will link to them later. Smooth pins are available on Aliexpress, or whatever you like.
  7. Then some default other wonderful mods, Klicky, PurgeBucket, other Front Idlers, Stealthburner, belt covers, Panzerball feet and 5" Touch display.
  8. Using Extrudr ASA Filament (big fan) but I am not stuck to it, I just dont use the cheap stuff, never been successful for me... I may go for another Red Bull theme here...
  9. Fermio custom Aluminium Composite panels. - https://fermio.xyz/fermio-labs-gmbh/voron2-v2.4r2-aluminium-composite-panels-350-spec-black-logo/
  10. Other extra things may follow....along the way..

 

INDEX - to direct you directly to the posts and avoid all the useless comments here 😛 

  1. Setting up the frame(work) - Click here to go directly there inside this post.
  2. Setting up Z Rails, mounts/feet and motors and Z idlers. Page 22-51 in the manual. Click here to go directly to the post in this thread....
  3. A/B Drives and Front Idlers. Page 62-81 in the manual - Click here to go directly to the post AB drives - Front Idlers
  4. Gantry! Page 82-107 - Click here to go directly to the post - Gantry!
  5. Belts Z and AB. Page 108-146 - Click here to directly go to the BELTS post....
  6. Electronics and Wiring! Click here to go directly to the electronics/wiring post
  7. Software setup Klipper/Mainsail (sorry my choice!) - Click here to go directly to Software installation guide

Follow this topic if you want updates! 

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  • Voron FTW! 3
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3 hours ago, Buurman said:

options to pay in Dollars, and let your bank do the conversion rate

Money saving tips as well! (In all seriousness I had never thought about that, and me a mean Scotsman!! Good call.) You just need to hand out relationship advice and you'll be our very own forum agony uncle 🤣

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4 hours ago, mvdveer said:

Getting better by the post. Got a good nozzle for it, and a spare - you never know... Honey, this carbon is a nozzle killer - I need a couple of spares

 

11 minutes ago, smirk said:

Money saving tips as well! (In all seriousness I had never thought about that, and me a mean Scotsman!! Good call.) You just need to hand out relationship advice and you'll be our very own forum agony uncle 🤣

Its a well hidden feature in paypal, very very easy to miss it, its close to one of the last steps to commit the payment... something like payment options...

and for the 50 bucks tungsten nozzle.. it should be worth it.. I hear.. harder than anything else, and better heat absorption than anything, except copper.

Just hide all the sharp objects in the house... and spoons... when you cant seem to turn around in bed, probably its the soup spoon in your back 😛 

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6 minutes ago, Buurman said:

and for the 50 bucks tungsten nozzle.. it should be worth it.. I hear.. harder than anything else, and better heat absorption than anything, except copper.

Well, now that you are joining the dark side with Revo Voron, you can go with the ObXidian nozzle. 😉 They're even a bit less than $50 most places.

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Just now, claudermilk said:

Well, now that you are joining the dark side with Revo Voron, you can go with the ObXidian nozzle. 😉 They're even a bit less than $50 most places.

I would be lying if that didnt make me look right away an open a new window to go shopping... 😛 

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So building a SQUARE frame, I think we all understand thats important, starting wrong here, could end up in challenges later.

My take on this is, first, check all the parts of the frame, maybe even put them down like in the manual, to avoid mistakes, but its pretty straightforward.

Doublecheck the length, not measure, but just see the ones from the same length, IF the are exactly the same length... you never know... 1mm off is nightmare.
Never had any issues btw, the frame part have always been undamaged, straight and right length, most important, SAME length.

So for the frame you need 8 of the same length, just one choice there,  put M5x16 bolts on each end and the 4 longest ones with the holes.

So what I use is a rounded 6 sided (imbus) and a square one, I have, I believe, good reasons.

So start by simply putting the frame together, dont tighten too strong yet, just strong enough that it holds for now, I do this with the rounded screwdriver, simply because its easier to manage, but its not suitable for strength.

Now, find a FLAT surface, I use the kitchen top, I have the luck its granite, but maybe you have a glass table, or flat concrete floor in the bathroom, or glass stovetop/cooker, whatever where you put pans on...

Now always work only on the front, and loosen the two front bottom corners. after that, PUSH with the weight of your hand on the laid down frame, make sure the vertical one is also touching the "floor" and feel with your thumb the side of the frame, where they come together, this should be flush!! then slowly tighten the front screw, make sure the horizontal part doesnt "turn", do the same for the other front screw, but leave the sides loose.

Tightening the screws here, I use the square screwdriver, I can put more force on it, and it wont slip.

Now turn it 45 degrees, loosen the new front corner screws and tighten the 2 front screws (left and right corner) like I described before. Continue all corners, flip it, do it again..

 

Practice this a bit, just make sure the horizontal frame AND the vertical frame are both pushed on the surface and when you screw it tight, make sure its flush with your thumb!

Tighten it pretty strong, with a screwdriver like this you can use almost all your strength, but with a hooked on or a machine, BE CAREFULL its just aluminium, not steel! You can use Locktite if you like, I found it not necessary in the past, the aluminium is softer than the stainless screws and dont have much the need to unscrew, but it can happen... they will always be easy accessible, so you always can tighten again if needed.

When I do it like this, I always end up with a square frame, I check it by measuring, and a 90 degree hook, and its been always spot on, without all the trouble!

Done, perfectly square frame, I hope others feel the same trying this, instead of complicated measuring in-between tightening corners, its a nightmare.

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Edited by Buurman
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  • 4 weeks later...

Thanks boys (gom) and appreciate it!

Started today on putting the 4x Z rails in and putting the 4x Z motors/feet on and Z idlers, Page 22-51 in the manual

1. Z-Rails 4x on the insides of your vertical rails.
   - I like to line them up next to the extrusion, with the 3mm (thickness of the Z motor tool)
   - I use sole in the brackets, so its easy to click m in and line m up, just eyball it, its ok.20221207_084553635_iOS.thumb.jpg.e6099e39d7d3d97bddef8f1038a2f34e.jpg

-  Next put the rail on, and use the printed tools to center them, one on each end and lightly tighten the screw, just so they barely touch steel. Tighten them al and then tighten from outside to inside with using the centering tools, yet, done the two outsides, you should be good, but I like keep on using the tools right next to the screw I am doing, I just want to be sure.

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2. lots of heat inserts in the Z motor mounts! I just love m.. 
   - im using a normal solder iron with a point for soldering, on about 250 degrees C, and I let them sink in, but stop when the are 1mm out and press them flat with a dremel tool I have, but anything flat and heat resistant would do. I dont like copper things, since they take the heat out and often you cant press it in anymore.

This tool work fine for me, see what you have laying around I would say.

20221207_093901268_iOS.thumb.jpg.6ed73808836f732eab2c179c05742ee5.jpg

 

 

Before putting these to parts together, I advise, run them SOFTLY over a file few times, 3/4 times, I like to lay down the file and run the part over in in the length, so you feel its flat.

This way your parts will go together much flatter, printing will always leave some higher points at the holes, etc, maybe I should be checked for obsessive behavior, is there a doctor in the house? 😛 @mvdveer

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3. Putting together the Z mounts/feet.

Ok, I do things a little different here, but you may not like it at all, the default manual way will do for sure.

I dont screw on the toothed pulley directly as in the manual, I first put it together, this way I  can position the axis the way I like, flush on the front.
Again, I should be checked... But I like how this works, since the position is always perfect anyway, as long as you push the two pulleys together towards the middle when tightening them.

20221207_100105183_iOS.thumb.jpg.7846e32eb6cae7303f580d03f9538d40.jpg 20221207_104029472_iOS.thumb.jpg.bac40b99fba5ec97202b32917930718c.jpg

When putting these together, I screw on the top of the mount on the bottom so the large pulley can run freely.

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I use ONE m3x30 for this, so you have a stable piece to work on.

again, just make sure you push the two pulley  towards each other in the center when tightening them.

After this, put them together, DONT forget the belt 😛 ... I am sure there has been so many of us...

4. Putting the Z mounts with motors on the frame!

Again, I dont screw on the pulleys before, but DURING installation, at least from the first one, so I can see how it ends up on the axis.

I line the pulley up with the large pully in the mount, I do it this way because in the past I noticed it was a bit off measuring with the tool, I trust my eyes more 😉

20221207_110500851_iOS.thumb.jpg.ab1ad12dfbfda3f8ddacea7fa6c70c84.jpg 20221207_112654472_iOS.thumb.jpg.833684ac6acea6631e983bb962f49822.jpg

 

When tightening the mounts/motors, two things, put them on STRAIGHT, check during tightening, since they tend to "slide".

When tightening the motor, I like the red spacer, but it DOESNT set the motor STRAIGHT, just at the right distance! 
So look at your motor and turn it so it runs parallel to your mount! really, they should mention this in the manual, see the last picture. (dont look at the belt, the pulley hasn't been screwed on yet, as you can see.

The Z idlers ... I cant tell you anything there, I dont really like m, and I use alternate ones with an axis instead of a M5x30, but a 30mm shaft.

Thats it, next is... the bed, and I am skipping that one, because I do that last.. why? its heavy and no need to put it in so soon, it can move to almost the end of the install.

So, next is Gantry!  

 

 

 

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6 hours ago, claudermilk said:

Boom! Progress!

Don't worry about filing the mating faces of parts, I do it too and picked that up from Steve Builds. The parts fit perfectly after a quick few swipes with a file.

so, no strong medicines needed? ah crap... 😛 

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A/B Drives and front idlers

To be honest, not much to tell here, but lets see, the longest stories start this way....

I dont use the default front idlers, but the these:

Simply because the look more slim, more beautiful, more better adjustment, more magnet front, more more more!!

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A chance to show of my magnet place pliers finally! I love this toy, but its stupid expensive. yet, after some magnet nightmares, I enjoy having it!
Just put the magnet on the pliers, adjust thickness to your print and push it in, its smooth, so it wont damage your print... with normal usage 😛 

In this case you can also put two magnet on eachother, take the two prints , one on each side and try to push them together.
This normally worked for me, but the black here is CARBON ASA, and it takes a lot more force to get the magnet in...

PS. my black prints are carbon, printed with a 0.6 nozzle, so the dont look as "clean" as my normal prints... but surprisingly good.. I think.

These front idlers, I use them with a smooth axis, or PIN, 5mm diameter, and 18mm long. Getting the 2 rings and the 2 bearings in there takes some practice, but its heaven compared to the default front idlers, I remember nightmares from these things, and putting the belt trough these later is like heaven compared to the default ones.
Tip, also with the originals, putting a tyrip trough them from opposite site and tape the belt on it and pull it back often did the trick for me...

These are easy... normally I bend the belt a little and it comes out right where it should.

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Fo the A B drives, nothing special, also put these over a file a few times to make them fit better on top of eachother.

I also use PINNED versions of these, so the bearings are on a smooth pin/axis instead of a M5 bolt. 

Believe me, this doenst make the build easier, I often have to put the pin in a electric drill and sand them so the become a little thinner, I just cant get the bearings on with some of them, they vary... just a little, but they do.
Also Carbon prints dont really want to give you that little extra space you need, so a little more filing/sanding needed.. pfff.. but I made my bed.. so .. sleep you GOM.. sleep!

In the end, result is everything... on one corner I used a 30mm instead of a 28mm pin, I try to life with it.. hahaha!

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