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Let the journey begin


mvdveer

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Exhaust fan and back panel fitted, Also did the Z-Belt cover mod - excellent replacement for the original covers.

Installed the Klipper - z calibration

https://github.com/protoloft/klipper_z_calibration

Installed the Y-Rail LED's 

https://github.com/VoronDesign/VoronUsers/tree/master/printer_mods/JNP/Neopixel-Y_Rails

REflashed the Klipper Expander board - for connection of the Chamber neo pixels.

https://github.com/timmit99/Klipper-Expander/tree/master/Software

Euclid working well with deploying, stowing, QGL and Bed Mesh.

 

Hope to finish the enclosure this weekend.

The tuning and test print

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Started tuning and ran into a problem. Did all the PID tuning, Quad Gantry Level but getting a weird Bed Mesh after calibration. Does it mean I have a warped bed? Why the negative values? 

image.thumb.png.f95f332bf5161145c648f16e2b933525.png

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I wouldn't say the bed was warped/twisted, it looks domed so unless it was made by a panel beater with their favourite dolly. Uneven heating? You're using the klicky (?) so I wouldn't say it was heating causing the probe to go off, and I'd be surprised if the gantries had all bowed consistently enough to make it look like the corners had dropped and nicely raised in the middle. Of course this is where you tell me it's all done cold, so I'll got back to my panel beater comment...🤪

 

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Did you heat it up on top temp for atleast 10 minutes constant?

If it stays this way, cant really see the max difference 0.10? I took a sand paper and corrected it on the magnetic sticker...

EDIT: ah see its 0.200, matbe thats a bit much, maybe its from something else.. heat for a loooong time and check again

 

Edited by Buurman
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9 hours ago, smirk said:

Of course this is where you tell me it's all done cold, so I'll got back to my panel beater comment...🤪

Indeed it was. Got to find that darn panelbeater. Get the same pattern cold and heated.

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6 hours ago, Buurman said:

Did you heat it up on top temp for atleast 10 minutes constant?

If it stays this way, cant really see the max difference 0.10? I took a sand paper and corrected it on the magnetic sticker...

EDIT: ah see its 0.200, matbe thats a bit much, maybe its from something else.. heat for a loooong time and check again

Thanks - will try that. Don't know if it was 10min. Will time it tonight when I get home and mesh again. But, ordered a Mandala Rose build plate from the UK (Cheaper shipping than from Mandala Rose in USA). Should be arriving next week.

The plate I have on was custom cut by the local aluminium supplier. It is a cast plate 5083. May be the problem.

@smirk - I found my panelbeater 🤣

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@mvdveerYou need a certified straight edge to check. I used my concern over level build plates as my justification for buying one, and also that fact that clearly it'll last lifetime (several in fact) with reasonable care so really it's a great investment 🙂

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Just now, smirk said:

@mvdveerYou need a certified straight edge to check. I used my concern over level build plates as my justification for buying one, and also that fact that clearly it'll last lifetime (several in fact) with reasonable care so really it's a great investment 🙂

@smirk My next investment it seems, thanks

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3 hours ago, smirk said:

so really it's a great investment

This is the line we tell our wifes/girlfriend/boyfriends/spouses and OURSELFS... RIGHT?? 😛 

 

Look honey, I printed a sponge holder... this really makes worth the investment.. uuhmm, about.. 4000 dollars in.. hahahaha!

Edited by Buurman
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Just now, smirk said:

Did you get one with in-built magnets of just pure flat loveliness?

Just pure flat loveliness. Why complicate things further I asked myself at time of purchase. But then doubt set in after purchase- what if the magnet adhesive takes away my flatness - emailed the seller - said I WANT the magnets - oh no - tracking information arrived followed by apology from seller that he did not see the message in time . SHOULD HAVE GOT THE MAGNETS!!!! 

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Could be worse, you could put the two beds face to face and realise there's no gap between them and no bend in the old bed......

Here's a daft question, I'm presuming you're out another heated pad? Or is there a (safe) way to remove the old and and reapply to the new bed?

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7 hours ago, smirk said:

Here's a daft question, I'm presuming you're out another heated pad? Or is there a (safe) way to remove the old and and reapply to the new bed?

Not daft at all. Carefully is the answer. The problem is you loose all the adhesive on the heater pad when removing it.

Found some mounting tape at the local electronics store that does work. Tested the heater pad last night after removal and heats up well without destroying the adhesive. 

Ideally one would get another heater pad. That is another 3 weeks wait to get a  220V pad here in OZ. Luckily I have a replacement because as you know - one can NEVER be too careful. Need that just incase item)

Have salvaged the old heater pad, but would most likely just use another, and keep this as a spare.

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10 hours ago, mvdveer said:

Luckily I have a replacement

I knew it!!! I think you can build 2 printers if you want to.... 😛

PS. You should change the title of this thread to.... "Please let this Journey come to a end"  hahahaha!

I am just a bit jealous of your new bed, and... maybe its not a bad idea taking it without magnets..

At least you get no disturbance on the probe.. because, there is even metal in a switch, and I feel it can always influence, these magnet are so strong...

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9 minutes ago, Buurman said:

I knew it!!! I think you can build 2 printers if you want to.... 😛

I think I can open a shop. (220V and 24V heater pads of different sizes) I am not hoarding - just planning ahead. 🤫 Don't tell the wife

IMG_2535.thumb.jpeg.f66eaa28658f15c2631eb4ab50bf4bdb.jpeg

 

10 minutes ago, Buurman said:

PS. You should change the title of this thread to.... "Please let this Journey come to a end"  hahahaha!

You're not kidding 🤣 Eventually it will

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Have a whole weekend and cannot do a thing. Waiting for the build plate to arrive. 

For those interested in fitting the Euclid probe - a few lessons I learned:

1. Use the designated Euclid probe X-carriage if you use the Bondtech LGX ectruder:

https://github.com/nionio6915/Euclid_Probe/tree/main/stls/Voron/User_Contrib

this ensures the probe is not angled as can be with the Omron adapter.

2. Use the Gantry mount option if you want to use the probe as an end stop and probe - so much easier than using the bed mount and fiddling with Klipper and Euclid macros to get this working.

3. Speaking of Euclid macros - they are a pain - be prepared to spend time fine tuning. On more than one occasion I have considered calling it a day

Other lessons:

1. Ensure your gantry is square. If you think it is, assume it is not and recheck. Now you are sure it is - watch Nero3dp's video on squaring and racking the gantry again and check AGAIN.

I noticed my gantry was 3mm out, despite having religiously followed the above. Turned out I unevenly tightened the belts. Lesson learned.

2. Buy a build plate from a reliable source. However now I am wondering if the 3mm the gantry was out contributed to the dome in the build plate. 🤔 Maybe not, just trying to make myself feel better.

Next update after new build plate arrives. Hopefully sometime next week.

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2 hours ago, mvdveer said:

the 3mm the gantry was out contributed to the dome in the build plate

You'll have to build another 2.4 (with the old plate) to check. It's the only way. Go on, you know it makes sense. It'll eat at you until you do....🤣 

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