OneStepAhead's Voron Trident 350mm Build - The Killer Bee

[OneStepAhead]

• Formbot Trident Kit (minus rails, heater ,and board)
• Octopus Pro v1.0 Board
• Orbiter 2.0 Extruder
• Mellow Carbon Fiber X Axis
• Secondary Mean Well LRS150-48 150w 3.3A 48v PSU
• Fystec 5160qhv Stepper Drivers x2 for A/B Motors (For 48v)
• LDO 42STH48-25094AC Stepper Motors 2.5A Max for A/B
• KvP Steller Black ABS + KvP Banana Yellow ABS Accent + Paramount Deception Purple ABS Accent
• Polymaker PC-ABS Filament Blend for increased heat resistance for A/B motor mounts
• Fabreeko Edge to Edge Heater
• Fabreeko HoneyBadger Rails
• Printedsolid ACM Panels for Trident
• 3x Igus EGLM-05 Bearings to replace the GE5C
• Triangle Labs Rapido Hotend
• Bondtech CHT Nozzles 0.4mm - 1.0mm
• Titanium Extrusion Backers from Fabreeko
• Fystek 355x355 0.3mm Frosted PEI for back of Formbot Flexplate
• Mods: Klicky, Sexbolt, Rama's Better Front Idlers, Nevermore, AB ERCF 3.2 PCB, ADXL PCB, Steathburner, 270 degree door hinges Spacelab's Orbiter 2.0 Mount
• PiCam v2.1, FFC Mod (once its back in stock)
• ERCF 9 Color MMU from BlueRolls
• Ikea Lack Table

I'm currently through page 62 of the Trident manual. This is my first time building a printer, and I only got into 3D printing in Nov 2021 (bought an Artillery Genius Pro). Been a lot of reading, watching, and geeking out. 

Hello Wisconsin!!!

-OneStepAhead

 

Edited April 15, 2022 by OneStepAhead
changed build

[Demosth]

Look's like a fantastic build - I love the mods and upgrades you chose. 

Please keep us updated on this build diary if you have any issues with the combination of Mods you chose. Also if you are willing I would like to know the thought process around the mod you chose.

This seems like the ultimate Trident build, as in you hit all the weak points!

[OneStepAhead]

6 hours ago, Demosth said:

Look's like a fantastic build - I love the mods and upgrades you chose. 

Please keep us updated on this build diary if you have any issues with the combination of Mods you chose. Also if you are willing I would like to know the thought process around the mod you chose.

This seems like the ultimate Trident build, as in you hit all the weak points!

Thank you! I'll take that as a compliment coming from you. 

My thought process around the mods.. and some of this may be wrong or misguided, as Im basing this on what I've read and not what I've experienced.

Rails - Probably wasn't needed, but at the time I wasn't sure about the quality of formbots rails. Now that some more reports have come in, I could of used the ones from formbot. But hey, the HoneyBadger ones have a working grease port! Woohoo!

Heater (and why I picked trident) - I plan on printing right up to the edge as I print a lot of ships/boats and will use the X/Y but didn't necessarily need more Z, which is why I chose Trident. Plus it is clearly the easier build. If 2.4r2 was released when I ordered, I may of considered it more strongly especially with the updated manual. That said, I think Trident will be the better choice if using ERCF with its shorter filament path. I got off topic there... the Fabreeko edge to edge heater dropped right as my kit arrived, so I went that route. Seems weird to put a 300mm heater on a 350mm build plate. I expect it will increase chamber temps too. Another Trident possible advantage. The build plate is higher where its warm.

ACM Panels - I incorrectly assumed the Formbot kit would come with colorplast, so I wanted to replace that right away. It didn't, it actually came with (I think) ABS panels (could be black acrylic). The ACM panels will give me better heat deflection anyways.

Igus bearings - I just saw another build log on here for Trident, I believe it was the first one, and he did this bearing mod and MRW Bed and Kinematic mounts. I didn't pony up for the MRW stuff (yet) but the bearings were cheap so I said wtf. No idea if this will make any meaningful difference, my guess is no.

Hotend - Rapido with CHT Nozzles. Seemed like the logical choice and successor to Dragon. Plus I love the name... it just sounds FAST. Watched Nero and CNC Kitchen videos about the CHT nozzles and they are the real deal. Volcano flow in a v6 size.

LGX Lite - Chose this over LGX for weight savings, and possibly easier install than building and wiring CW1.

Extrusion Backers - Read Whoppingochard's data on the bi metal effect and extrusions bending. Probably would not of been a huge issue for me, but they also look cool.

Front Idlers - Read a lot of people having issues with belt damage and cracked idlers. Im building out the gate with the 2.4r2 front idlers, but I do have the parts for Ramas Better Front Idlers too.

Sexbolt - Name, Cute Faces. Enough said.

Nevermore - Self explanatory 

Klicky - This I will install later, and may not even install it. Many recommend it, Nero says not needed or recommend for newbs. Well see.

ERCF - This is the whole reason I wanted to build a printer! Im super geeked about getting ERCF up and running. Id love to have 2 extruders and 2 ERCF's, you could probably save a lot of time having to wait for filament changes. But the idea of being able to use multiple materials and colors is the dream, right? I have a feeling ERCF is going to be more challenging than building the Trident.

While I waited for parts I got Klipper up and running on my Artillery Genius Pro, and have been using mainsail. So I at least have some basic Klipper knowledge now which will make this build go a lot easier. Honestly even me who hasn't built a printer before, you could crank out a Trident build in a day or 2, if you just went full force. A lot of people said don't jump to a Voron so soon, build something else first. Like what? What else has better documentation? Im not going to build a Prusa MK3S in 2022, no thanks. So far I'm glad I didn't listen to these "gatekeepers".  Well see how I feel next week

edit: Left out that I did also print the 270 degree door hinge mod, the ones that don't use tape.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

[OneStepAhead]

Got a bit more done today. But I hit a roadblock as my Z rails are 350mm, and I ordered 300. Fabreeko fixed this quickly and professionally! Really like that Vendor, good discord channel too. 

[Demosth]

1 hour ago, OneStepAhead said:

Got a bit more done today. But I hit a roadblock as my Z rails are 350mm, and I ordered 300. Fabreeko fixed this quickly and professionally! Really like that Vendor, good discord channel too. 

Make sure you leave them a review here as well...

 

[vyses]

This looks good, I am like 80% through my Trident build.  CW1 wouldn't be any additional wiring since the only wires for the extruder come out of the motor which they both have one.

Have you looked into the annex engineering corner clips? I guess there amazingly superior to the included voron ones.

[claudermilk]

You second post outlining you plans for mods is great. Much of where you are going I have gone, or plang to go.

The IGUS bearings are probably just Gucci. These GE5C bearings are simply to allow some range of motion for the bed mounts with the independent Z steppers. I thought about the IGUS and after digging in to what they are for opted for the spec ones. It certainly won't hurt to have them.

Klicky probe is magic! Definitely go with your current plan. Build to spec with the inductive and get the printer working. Follow the wiring instructions for the probe from the Voron docs site; the Octopus board is a little weird how it needs to go to work. Once things are set up and working, switch to Klicky. I did last weekend and I love it.

I installed Sexbolt from the start and it's nice. Check my build diary for the tweaks I had to do with it for Trident. Oh, and we don't get the faces on our mount part for the Trident. 

Nevermore and ERCF are solidly in my future plans, Nevermore soon-ish. I'm also eyeing the extrusion backers but for a 250 build it feels more Gucci than useful.

As for jumping to Voron quickly, it sounds like you already have experience with printers so IMHO no problem. I started with a Prusa Mini+ kit, and almost immediately started research on sourcing my Trident. I haven't run into anything unsurmountable yet.

[OneStepAhead]

On 3/23/2022 at 4:10 PM, vyses said:

This looks good, I am like 80% through my Trident build.  CW1 wouldn't be any additional wiring since the only wires for the extruder come out of the motor which they both have one.

Have you looked into the annex engineering corner clips? I guess there amazingly superior to the included voron ones.

Well, I have now that you posted this. Not clear which corner clips people are using from Annex, seems they have a few builds. You have a link a discussion about this?

[OneStepAhead]

Has anyone looked into aluminum parts that are available for Trident? It seems that's where printers like Railcore, Ratriig, and even Trodoon have an advantage. Were using warped ABS, many of us printed them using inferior techniques too. Ive only seen kits available for 2.4. Could have some parts custom milled I supposed, but would need to modify them to get rid of the heat-set inserts. 

[claudermilk]

I have no experience with the aluminum parts, but have seen the question asked a number of times. The old hands & experts all seem to have the same answers. First, what happens when an update comes out (e.g., V2.4r2)? Next, the printers were designed with the properties of ABS and the flex from the plastic in mind. I can vouch for this from my initial tuning  on my build. I had the Z endstop trigger not get recognized a few times and watched the gantry flex. No harm done because the ABS allowed things to move and not break; I shudder to think if those were rigid aluminum. Cha-ching.

[OneStepAhead]

3 minutes ago, claudermilk said:

I have no experience with the aluminum parts, but have seen the question asked a number of times. The old hands & experts all seem to have the same answers. First, what happens when an update comes out (e.g., V2.4r2)? Next, the printers were designed with the properties of ABS and the flex from the plastic in mind. I can vouch for this from my initial tuning  on my build. I had the Z endstop trigger not get recognized a few times and watched the gantry flex. No harm done because the ABS allowed things to move and not break; I shudder to think if those were rigid aluminum. Cha-ching.

I still think it would be nice to have certain aluminum parts. X-Carriage for one. When updates come out you have to replace parts no matter what they are made out of. You also don't have to upgrade either  At this point any updates being released are mainly QoL stuff anyways. 

[OneStepAhead]

On 3/24/2022 at 8:41 AM, claudermilk said:

 

I installed Sexbolt from the start and it's nice. Check my build diary for the tweaks I had to do with it for Trident. Oh, and we don't get the faces on our mount part for the Trident. 

 

Glad you pointed that out. I had someone print it for me with my other parts, and they printed the smile face. I'll have to reprint the Trident specific part. Maybe Ill add my own

[OneStepAhead]

Made it through the Z Axis section (page 97) which makes X Axis next. That should be fun! Actually, the whole process thus far has been easy breezy lemon squeezy, as they say. I would only be guessing, but I think it took approximately 8 hours of assembly to get to this point. Ive been doings bits and pieces each day when I have time. 

Im debating on using carbon fiber for the X rail, this mod: https://github.com/Woki-Leo/Carbonfiber-X-Axis

There is an X Rail from Mellow on Ali Express that will work for 2.4 and I believe looks the same as Trident. With some other things (pin mod using carbon fiber rods, etc) you can shave 400 grams off X. LGX Lite should save me a bit of weight too. Given this is a 350, I don't expect It to be a speed demon, but I have a feeling shaving off 400+ grams would have a big impact on performance! Thoughts?

Used WD-40 Spray White Lithium Grease on the lead screws, it should look a better once it gets worked in. 

 

Whoppingochard's Titanium Extrusion Backers from Fabreeko:

Edited March 25, 2022 by OneStepAhead

[OneStepAhead]

 

Careful screwing these into the rails, I went a little too far and the ABS deformed a bit. Love the HoneyBadger branding on the Fabreeko rails!!!

 

[OneStepAhead]

Right and Left XY Joints are done. Also, just heard on Discord from LDO they are going to be making a Custom Stepper with 350mm Leadscrew for Trident to give it 300mm Z! That would of been nice, but I don't think Ill tear down my printer for it. I will however build a second trident with more Z

This is where I stop for today... finished page 109. X-Carriage is next (tomorrow!)  

Edited March 25, 2022 by OneStepAhead

[vyses]

https://github.com/Annex-Engineering/Other_Printer_Mods/tree/master/All_Printers/Annex_Panel_2020_Clips_and_Hinges/panel_clips_and_corners


I found this image to kinda explain how they work.

Edited March 26, 2022 by vyses
adding stuff

[OneStepAhead]

On 3/25/2022 at 7:11 PM, vyses said:

https://github.com/Annex-Engineering/Other_Printer_Mods/tree/master/All_Printers/Annex_Panel_2020_Clips_and_Hinges/panel_clips_and_corners


I found this image to kinda explain how they work.

Interesting. My plan is to have it sitting on 4 brick pavers on top of a piece of foam (the piece that came in my formbot box is perfect).

[OneStepAhead]

Need to add one more screw  Luckily I did put in the T-Nut

 

This thing is a tank. Ive got a CF Tube on order, and some 5mm carbon rods to use for the pin mods. Should be able to get rid of the Ti Backer which is on the back adding even more weight. 

Edited March 27, 2022 by OneStepAhead

[OneStepAhead]

I've decided against LGX Lite. What I really want to run is an Orbiter 2.0, but I need a mod to have the filament sensor after the gears, which doesn't exist yet. Maybe I'll build a Galileo for now, which is based off Orbiter 1.5

Edited March 27, 2022 by OneStepAhead

[OneStepAhead]

X rail is done. Never seen one of these inductions probes, pretty cool! I fear it will have a short life, as I have the parts for Klicky mod and will do those later. Im now through page 119. Next up is belts! Which should be a lot easier on Trident than a 2.4!

It is immensely satisfying sliding the X rail back and forth. I did that for probably 10 minutes. Seemed...naughty... 

Edited March 27, 2022 by OneStepAhead

[OneStepAhead]

Made some changes already... updated my initial post to reflect it:

 

• Octopus Pro v1.0 Board
• Secondary Mean Well LRS150-48 150w 3.3A 48v PSU
• Fystec 5160qhv Stepper Drivers x2 for A/B Motors (For 48v)
• LDO 42STH48-25094AC Stepper Motors 2.5A for A/B
• Polymaker ABS-PC Blend Filament to print new A/B motor mounts with higher heat resistance 

Decided Im going to give 48v a try for fun on the A/B motors. 350 build size isn't ideal for a speed demon, but I'll adjust it accordingly

Also switched the front idlers for Rama's Better Front Idlers which just got revised last week for Trident. Got the belt run. Next up is supposed to be the build plate but I'm going to skip that for now to keep the weight down while I finish the build. Need to reprint the idler covers as they warped a bit. 

 

Edited April 4, 2022 by OneStepAhead

[Simon2.4]

2 hours ago, OneStepAhead said:

48v a try for fun on the A/B motors. 350 build size isn't ideal for a speed demon

You also get appreciable efficiency gain with this mod so if you want a quiet printer, the drivers should produce less heat so you can reduce fan noise.

[OneStepAhead]

On 4/2/2022 at 5:56 PM, Simon2.4 said:

You also get appreciable efficiency gain with this mod so if you want a quiet printer, the drivers should produce less heat so you can reduce fan noise.

But won't the motors produce a lot more heat, needing additional cooling? Im definitely not looking for quiet, I expect it will be very loud once I start pushing it anyways. 

Edited April 4, 2022 by OneStepAhead

[OneStepAhead]

Id be interested to know if anyone has tried 48v for the Galileo / Orbiter extruder motor. My guess is it would get too hot. Probably better suited for a Sherpa Mini with its skeleton design 

Edited April 4, 2022 by OneStepAhead

[Simon2.4]

On 4/4/2022 at 9:14 AM, OneStepAhead said:

won't the motors produce a lot more heat

If the motors are rated for 48v, they will produce less heat because for a given power delivered, the current will be much less. p (W) = U (V) x I (A) It's current that produces heat. If motors are overvolted like applying 48v to 24v motors, there are other considerations that may produce more heat, like the windings resistance being too low. I (A) = U (V) / R (ohm)

EDIT: Though this is not false, it turns out its not really relevant to the subject at hand; see further posts for clarification