zav3nd's Trident 350 - Formbot Kit

[zav3nd]

Took a while of debating myself: V0 "cheaper" entry and smol, V2 popular but Trident seemed underrepresented. Really it was mostly everyone saying Trident is a bit easier as the first Voron, and I can always build the others later on. So I ordered my Trident 350 formbot kit yesterday, they don't reopen until Monday. And then however long it takes to be shipped and make it to my door. Still plenty of things to do before then.

 

Mainly: Working my way through the printed parts list and the stl files.

Currently at 8% of parts according to it. Would be further but I detoured to bed adhesion problems when I tried the a/b drive frames. Printing on a smooth pei stuck to glass. Bought some gluesticks today and going to sleep on the reprints, they look like they should make it. Hopefully wont have to add too much more to the waste pile.

 

And then there are the mods! I'm open to suggestions but so far:

• Stealthburner
• Inverted electronics https://www.teamfdm.com/files/file/526-trident-inverted-electronics/
• TAP/Metal TAP/ChaoticLab? https://github.com/Vitalii3D-xyz/MetalTap - Still looking into them, but seems like doing tap now would save disassembling and adding later.
• Snap Latches https://www.teamfdm.com/files/file/392-snap-latch-2020/
• Internal Spool https://www.teamfdm.com/files/file/537-horseshoespoolholder/
• Probably Nevermore or another filter eventually

 

Edited February 19 by zav3nd
tags

[MrSprinklz]

I had a similar debate and went self-sourced V0 first and just buttoning up a self-sourced 2.4, but Trident is a sleeper for sure! I'm not sure Stealthburner is considered a mod at this point, but still a good choice. Nevermore is good, heard good things about the other filters just haven't personally used them. Internal spool and inverted electronics are very popular in the Tridents. I have Tap R8, but Vitali CNC Tap is becoming very popular, I'll probably go to that if printed tap breaks. Snap latches are sweet for V2 and VT, but the V0 version I didn't like because the screw head sticks out over the panel. If you build a V0, I recommend the ZeroPanels.

There are so many other mods you could do, I will leave you with just three: Klipperscreen, Fridge Door (clicky-clack), and Beefy Front Idlers.

 

Good luck on your Trident! Looking forward to the build!

[zav3nd]

I looked at self sourcing but seemed to quickly get to kit costs, might revisit for a V0. As far as Tap I'm split between Chaoticlabs V2 and Vitalii, but I haven't been able to find a good comparison... probably just haven't found the right keywords.

Beefy Front Idlers I think I'm going to go for, took me down a rabbit hole of pinned A/B drives but I just printed those so staying stock for now. The gluestick got rid of the warping issue I was having, probably some specific stuff around to use.

 

Then on the stealthburner I've been trying to figure out how to do the diffuser, so I filled with hotglue gun "low temp", then shaved the excess with a knife tossed it into the enclosure under the bed to see if it will be fine with the heat or not. Forgot how much of a stringy mess hot glue is...

[Dirk]

On 2/16/2024 at 5:36 AM, zav3nd said:

I detoured to bed adhesion problems

Hi, welcome and I wish you a joyful journey

You might want to consider these video series from Nero3D. It did help me when first printing my parts on my sidewinder x2 for my voron 2.4. One of his tips are to print one piece at a time. A very valuable one I found, was to put circles / squares under the corners to prevent warping. Anyway, I see you solved the problem with glue, which is also a solution he advises.

If you do a simple search on the forum, you will see many build-logs where people link their mods. Very useful. Take the ones you like. It is always cheaper and simpler to go for the modded version from the beginning, but it will be harder, because there is no manual .

The Ramalama front idlers and pins upgrades are very popular around here (and also very useful). Some hinges / handles / clips to hold up your panels are also very useful and will spare you a lot of printing hours and plastic to print stock first. 

Self sourcing works well for people who have a lot of budget for their printer and know what they are sourcing (experienced builders). Or for people that live in the USA. In Europe you have to pay double, for shipping and taxes. So a kit which is already imported by the kit-maker to a EU country is way (800 instead of 1400 euros) cheaper (Formbot sent from Czech warehouse, or Fysetc sent from French warehouse).

I do not understand exactly what you are trying to do with your stealthburner diffuser. But the diffuser needs to be transparant. I used transparant PETG, which works well. The diffuser-led-holder you can print in solid color. Once you have printed the parts you can click fit it into the stealthburner front.

 

[MrSprinklz]

I self sourced mine because I wanted to do a lot of mods from the beginning and also I could buy a little each month or two and build as I went. Kits are cheaper and I'll probably do that if I build a Micron+ in the future. Also, I printed my original V0.1 parts on an Ender 3 and did very small batches with a draft shield and brim. Then I reprinted everything when V0.2 was released and the parts turned out so much better. Then that printed my 2.4. You get the idea.

As far as I can tell, pinned A/B isn't a big deal, just preference. BFI and ramalama idlers are nicer than stock to build. BFI is better because the belt is pulling the printed parts together instead of apart, some people have had cracked carriers in ramalama idlers. There is also the alpaca-something idler that seem good, just another flavor. To hammer home that pins aren't that big of a deal, the micron BZI have small m3 screws instead of pins.

[zav3nd]

5 hours ago, Dirk said:

I do not understand exactly what you are trying to do with your stealthburner diffuser. But the diffuser needs to be transparant. I used transparant PETG, which works well. The diffuser-led-holder you can print in solid color. Once you have printed the parts you can click fit it into the stealthburner front.

Yeah I could've explained the thought better. I'm avoiding buying a roll of transparent filament I wont use, or buying the printed piece. Had seen someone using hotglue for it so figured I'd give that a shot.

[zav3nd]

Hit a snag on the printing, for some reason Cura is connecting the "pcb_din_clip" springy clip part (obviously the technical term). "rs25_psu_bracket" and the other similar ones don't get connected. Wonder if I can't cut it and use the parts anyway. Anyone run into something like this?

Fiddled in superslicer for a minute and it doesn't merge there, but I haven't tried using it before.
Actually just found in Cura "Print Thin Walls" turn it on and the preview no longer shows the merge for the pcb din clip. Probably just going to cut these free and save some filament.

Edited February 18 by zav3nd
found answer maybe.

[YaaJ]

Answering without the full profile is impossible.
Install the plugin "Export HTML Cura Settings" by 5axes, save your project : Menu -> Save Project...-> select "Cura Settings Documentation (*html").

Been using Cura only for years, never seen this before...

[zav3nd]

55 minutes ago, YaaJ said:

Answering without the full profile is impossible.
Install the plugin "Export HTML Cura Settings" by 5axes, save your project : Menu -> Save Project...-> select "Cura Settings Documentation (*html").

Been using Cura only for years, never seen this before...

Unchecked print thin walls but looks like its just a settings dump. But maybe there is something I have borked up.

CE3PRO_pcb_din_clip_x3.html

[YaaJ]

Yes. Disabling "Print thin walls" makes this glitch appear. Not sure it is the expected behaviour, because this wall isn't thin by any means !
It seams to me that it was disabled by default the first time I used Cura (2016 or so)
Never seen this before because I never disabled it since then.

BTW, if you want smoother prints, and don't have crazy overhangs, printing outer walls first will produce better looking and more accurate results.

Found this : https://github.com/Ultimaker/Cura/issues/15990

It's not a bug it's a feature...

[zav3nd]

Somewhere around 127hours of print time, not much left of the first spool of gray. The throw everything into a gallon ziplock was running out of room, going to split into better groupings.

Doesn't look like much...

Spreadsheet says 161hrs remaining, and 53hrs printed. So probably more like 385hours at my print speeds.

[mvdveer]

6 hours ago, zav3nd said:

So probably more like 385hours at my print speeds

Slow and steady always wins the race in the end.

[zav3nd]

Formbot shipped today. Tracking not updated yet so no eta. Ordered mine from China thinking it was cheaper, then paying shipping brings it back to the same price as the US. Couldn't really find much on the difference between the US and China order.

 

Sitting at 189hours printed and all the "PIF" minimum parts are done (I think).

Does that seem like enough? Bagged them to try and stay separated and not a complete mess.

Think the majority of the time left is the skirts. It looks like I could print them on the Ender3 and I might. And there are probably going to be the few parts I printed the wrong version (2hole vs 3hole cable chains? I went 3). The fan housing I'm debating just printing a cover for it or will the enclosure build too much heat?

 

I at least don't feel completely behind now that the list is whittled down.

[zav3nd]

Went ahead and started on the non functional parts. Not sure where that tiny piece came from; I just hope I don't lose it between now and needing it. I've gotten lazy and just add enough parts to make it to a time I can be around to change and start printing again.

I ordered some threaded inserts and bolts to have some extras and to be able to put the stealthburner together (fairly sure the formbot kit wont have any of that stuff). I need to print inverted electronics parts (realize now that some replace the stock parts), then skirts. Enclosure clips will have to wait until I know what size to print sadly, otherwise skirts would be last.

On the Tap side of things I'm going to go with the ChaoticLab CNC Tap v2 to get the build up and going. Vitalli Tap was the alternative but its hard to find much on it or much comparing the two. Printed tap if when I finally push the order button I can't find anything. Just figure to minimize swapping parts and seems like printed pushes the hotend forward on the Y.

For stealthburner I'm leaning towards a moons stepper, LDO or StepperOnline are cheaper but it sounds like they are more temperature sensitive?

Then lube wise I'm thinking Mobil Mobilux EP2 10ml syringe. Could order a whole tube for the same price and fill my own (but that sounds like a pain). And it seems like 10ml will last at least a couple printers? Whats your favorite lube (other than astroglide...)? Personally 3 in 1 oil but I mostly use it on handtools.

 

I'm looking at sourcing from west3d for the Tap, Nema14 Stepper, Mobil syringe, and for the 5mm pins.

[atrushing]

4 hours ago, zav3nd said:

Not sure where that tiny piece came from; I just hope I don't lose it between now and needing it.

That is just the built in support for the Mini 12864 display front.

[PFarm]

@zav3nd love your colour combo.

[zav3nd]

On 2/22/2024 at 11:31 PM, atrushing said:

That is just the built in support for the Mini 12864 display front.

Tossed it, glad I don't have to save it.

 

On 2/24/2024 at 2:24 PM, PFarm said:

@zav3nd love your colour combo.

Originally a year ago I think I was going white+green, but read too many comments about white issues. And gray was cheaper at the time.

Its all Polymaker "PolyLite" ABS. Never noticed a smell and roommates haven't either, but I specifically asked (its in a non used room anyway). Print details (temp etc) above in the .html file.

 

Was out of town all weekend, so nothing to really share. My formbot kit should show up Monday (tomorrow)! So it might get a little more exciting around here. I'm reprinting my stealthburner pieces because they all were printed without gluestick and have a slight warp, which annoys me, even though they all seem to fit together.

I've been fighting with the last bit of filament and wound up moving the spool ontop of the enclosure on the first layer. It kept pulling the whole spool into the extruder (roll was in the big open space to left of printer). Never ran into any problems before, but with the spool nearly empty it doesn't have the weight to keep it on the rollers I suppose (didn't matter over or under). I have my brothers Ender 3 (just off screen), but need to enclose to print abs, and I'm nearly done with printing.

 

I'll have to order the Tap and Stealthburner parts soonish, slightly holding off for whatever I'm forgetting. I'm also considering getting another lack table to put the trident on eventually, but maybe the floor or something built out of more solid material is better? I'm curious what everyone has their printers on?

Edited February 26 by zav3nd

[MrSprinklz]

I have that same green on my V0! I went green and black on green extrusions, but the gray looks really good too! I've had good luck with Polymaker so far. My V0 is on my desk and seems loud because it shakes the desk a bit. My V2.4 is on the floor and very quiet except large/fast z moves. I think floor would be better than a lack table, especially for a big, heavy printer at higher speed. If you had a super solid table/shelf/desk, then that would work well.

 

[claudermilk]

My Trident 250 is on a Lack table and it works fine for me. Yeah, things shake a bit when the tool head is really going, but with input shaper I don't see any artifacts in the parts--it just gets a little noisy now and then. I'm actually moving it to a bigger, more solid table soon(ish) that became available. The V0 will take its spot on the Lack.

[zav3nd]

Day 1 - Its Arrived. Picture dump of box opening.

Took an adventure in compressing images. Hopefully the quality is fine.

Next step is to rob a portion of counter for the frame assembly. Also seems they sent a Nema 14 instead of a 17, which is fine by me (didn't see any LEDs for stealthburner, but maybe in the electronics bag). Dragon hotend should get here this week too.

 

Oh and that big bag of screws makes me wish I had printed bins for that or bought a screw case.

Edited February 27 by zav3nd

[mvdveer]

Now that is exiting!

[zav3nd]

Day 1 Part 2 - I couldn't resist.

Frame measures out on all the diagonals. Took the longest trying to identify and sort the extrusions, and several places online have the letters and sizing mixed up to add to the confusion. Once I got that sorted and realized I had to use the Y spacer because my E extrusion was too long. Extrusion Identification

Started on the A/B Drives, need to get some thread locker. And probably order parts for the BFI.

Went ahead and put a few threaded inserts in while the iron was heated...

[zav3nd]

Day 2 - Finished AB Drives, Ordered parts for BFI, Put together Clockwork2 and stealthburner.

I think the wires should've come out the top right maybe? They are long enough to wrap around and the connect sits near that inset. Manual didn't note cable direction that I saw.

These LED's are out of an unmarked bag, 26 AWG, lengths are a bit shorter than the manual but seems like it would fit. But I guess I need to resolder two of the wire sets, can't imagine a 180degree bend would be good for it...

Have to wait on my BFI parts and was trying to avoid jumping around the main build *too* much.

[claudermilk]

Yeah, whoever soldered those wires didn't really understand how the Stealthburner goes together. There's no way the logo one will fit like that, and the nozzle is questionable.

[mvdveer]

17 hours ago, zav3nd said:

can't imagine a 180degree bend would be good for it...

Why not give it a go before re-soldering, unless you are good at it. (I am not) All that needs to happen is the cable with the JST attach should fold back on the LED and it should fit. These are standard formbot wiring - not the best but works. Have build 3 or 4 formbot kits and have not had an issue with the LED's - yet