zav3nd's Trident 350 - Formbot Kit

[Dirk]

Right... If I remember right, the stealthburner kits from Fysetc were delivered with these kind soldered wires.

Fysetc does several things annoyingly opposite of what Voron describes and other companies do ( like using red cables for ground systematically).

But in their GitHub, they have an STL that they modified for the carrier in the stealthburner so these soldered wires fit better. 

 

And like @mvdveer says... Don't unsolder resolder unless you're very good at it and have tiny equipment. These things tend to let loose quickly with too long soldering...

 

Edited February 28 by Dirk
Fysetc git link

[zav3nd]

2 hours ago, mvdveer said:

Why not give it a go before re-soldering, unless you are good at it. (I am not) All that needs to happen is the cable with the JST attach should fold back on the LED and it should fit. These are standard formbot wiring - not the best but works. Have build 3 or 4 formbot kits and have not had an issue with the LED's - yet

True. Just assumed it would be easier to resolder before it all got crammed in there. Do you use the stock carrier or the one Dirk Linked? I'm all for not soldering.

 

1 hour ago, Dirk said:

Right... If I remember right, the stealthburner kits from Fysetc were delivered with these kind soldered wires.

Fysetc does several things annoyingly opposite of what Voron describes and other companies do ( like using red cables for ground systematically).

But in their GitHub, they have an STL that they modified for the carrier in the stealthburner so these soldered wires fit better. 

And like @mvdveer says... Don't unsolder resolder unless you're very good at it and have tiny equipment. These things tend to let loose quickly with too long soldering...

Thanks I'll print it and see which will let me cram it all in there easier!

[mvdveer]

13 minutes ago, zav3nd said:

Do you use the stock carrier or the one Dirk Linked?

Stock carrier. Did not know about the modified carrier until he posted it.

[zav3nd]

Day 3 - Stealthburner Faceplate and AB Drives Installed.

Took me a minute to spot the difference on the LED Carrier, the Fysetic ones is thinner. Probably left more room for the wire fold.

And I can't read properly apparently because I skipped over the part where that was supposed to be an M3 T Nut. Luckily needle nosed pliers got it swapped out correctly.

Now I'm waiting on parts for a couple days. Might get some weather delays too... big storm coming in.

 

West3D was out of grease syringes so I'm just going to make my own. Lucas Red n Tacky because I have it, nice bright red to go with the green

[mvdveer]

Looking good. Seems the LED's worked without desoldering - whoop whoop!

[claudermilk]

Cool, I'm glad you didn't have to resolder. It's not easy. Of course it's also an excuse for more tools. 

[zav3nd]

Day 3.5 - More Packages arrive, some work done on stealthburner. (I did a thing and opened cardboard boxes, its not worthy of a "day".)

Dragon came in, almost wish I went for HF. But read about too many issues. Took me a while to figure out I needed to remove the adapter on top.

Bought some hex drivers for RC cars(needed the long non ball end, have wera keys with the ball end), and a Pi. I'll put my included BTT pi on my brothers Ender 3... kinda just wanted the extra ram.

Pieced the dragon in. Took me a while to realize to use the parts from the kit instead of the M3x8 bolts that the manual mentions. (Seemed like M2.5's?) Wasn't sure if the heater cartridge should stick out even or more to one side or the other. So I put it even on each side. (Feel free to tell me why that was wrong!)

 

I'm still printing, skirts are done, just 'random' non pif parts left. And I printed hall effect mount, and the Formbot kit comes with a switch board now (had read it was hall effect before). Stalled out waiting for 5mm rod to come in for front idlers (should be Monday), I'll probably look forward in the Manual and see what I can get away with doing now. Thinking feet and starting on the electronics bay mounts and whatnot.

[zav3nd]

Day 4 - Z Axis and XY Gantry.

Made up a grease syringe, I tried greasing through the small hole in the ends but couldn't get anything so resorted to sliding the carriage half off each end and running a bead of grease on the balls twice.

 

Mounted the Z rails. Used the printed Y spacer as my "1-2mm" for the z rails.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

I went with large end inside the part, seems everything I read was doing that. The M5 nut I took back out after mounting because they just fall out anyway, are they supposed to be a press fit or free enough to fall out? With how well everything has fit I'm going with they typically fall out.

Starting to look like a thing. After putting one foot on then putting the rubber on the feet I put the rubber on the other 3 before mounting to the frame. Had to move off the tall countertop was getting too hard to work on.

 

I went with 10 tnuts in the X, 6 listed in manual, but needed 9 to do every other, and would've left one end without a nut.

 

After all that I realize I can mount the Beefy Front Idlers (and build them when parts come in Monday), but that will let me get the Y rails on and keep rolling forward. Not sure how long I'll be waiting for CNC Tap yet.

Edited March 3 by zav3nd

[zav3nd]

Looking at printing the snap latches. But I'm not sure which size to print? The panels all seem to be 3mm, and the kit includes 3mm and 1mm foam. I'm guessing 6mm latches mainly, and 4mm for the thinner foam areas. Or take .5mm off both? Probably run off test pieces and put foam on a panel. But shortcuts are always welcome!

[Dirk]

Yesterday I was alerted to this Formbot related news: https://forum.vorondesign.com/threads/attention-regarding-the-formbot-2-4-pro-kit.1323/

I know your kit is not a 2.4, but a trident. But still Formbot. Seen nothing but positive things from Formbot. Have a 0.2 Formbot kit lying to build, but thought should inform everyone.

maybe double check if thats not the case with your kit.

 

About the latches... I would never add all 16 or 32 latches at once to your plate and print them. print one and see if it fits. how it fits.

I started with the stock terrible clips. Then replaced all with the quick latches. yesterday finished printing these: https://www.printables.com/model/77913-voron-panel-locks-larger-separation (works where you would use 6mm high snap latches).

Another good reason to print one first, is that this stl comes upside down. If you do not flip it (I did not), you will have a spaghetti print the first time.

edit- on second thought (I had forgotten you were using an unencased ender to print your parts), print the other ones first, this mod requires a tuned printer... But you would have noted that as well when you would print a piece: the clamps are print-in-place-rotatable.)

 

Edited March 3 by Dirk
explained in text

[zav3nd]

Getting to the edge of wiring (bed) right now, I'll pull it all out and check it sometime this week, thanks.

 

1 hour ago, Dirk said:

on second thought (I had forgotten you were using an unencased ender to print your parts), print the other ones first, this mod requires a tuned printer... But you would have noted that as well when you would print a piece: the clamps are print-in-place-rotatable.)

Its actually in a lack enclosure shoved into a spare room.

[Dirk]

Right... Sorry... Ikea tables. Always loved the design

but can your ender print this?

if not, always worth to try once.

[zav3nd]

Would have to try. I was looking at these: https://www.printables.com/model/172368-voron-24-filament-latch-or-any-2020-extrusion
 

But now I have to print both and see which I like better... then figure out the right size.

[Dirk]

In my opinion, this one is better, but uses hardware. 

I did those too... But the filament I used to hold those things together, broke off after a few times use. Instead of using something else I decided to use those panel latches. 

[zav3nd]

Day 5 - Gantry and Bed

Installed the gantry and the bed frame.

Gantry Squaring/Racking took a minute hour then I realized (with the help of googling a bunch) the endstop piece keeps the other side pushed out slightly. I had already read to square off the fronts, but tried adjusting for the gap at the back and running into issues. (Ignore my ugly zseam.)

Magnetic sheet is just barley larger than the 350mm build plate (haven't measured yet but maybe 1mm) and corners round harder than the aluminum plate.

Weighted the heating pad and magnet with a couple heavy books until I get back to them.

 

I haven't decided if I want to RTV the edge (and glue the thermal fuse to the heater). Or just run with it as is and setscrew for the fuse per the manual. Can always change later and at least the bed seems to be fairly easy to pull off.

 

I've test ran a belt, but waiting on BFI parts (tomorrow) and CNC Tap (from China?) before I can actually install them. It does seem the formbot kit has some excess on the belts while I've read complaints about them being barley long enough, wont know for sure until I run them though. Will probably be starting on electronics bay this week. As a first build I'd advise against skipping around like I have been. But I can't resist waiting to do it in order. And I'll get back to belts once I get parts in. Then should be in order again.

 

 

[PFarm]

13 hours ago, Dirk said:

 

 

Love the simplicity of these have them on both my printers. 

[PFarm]

9 hours ago, zav3nd said:

I haven't decided if I want to RTV the edge (and glue the thermal fuse to the heater). Or just run with it as is and setscrew for the fuse per the manual. Can always change later and at least the bed seems to be fairly easy to pull off.

I've RTV the bed on both printers but a lot of people have run theirs without it just a matter of choice. Great progress!

Edited March 4 by PFarm

[zav3nd]

Looks like CNC Tap is in the country. So while I wait, I'm messing with panel latches, I think the 'last' printed parts.

On 3/3/2024 at 6:34 PM, Dirk said:

But the filament I used to hold those things together, broke off after a few times use.

Granted that was the one I messed with half the day opening an closing. Then it broke snapping to compare it to the lower one.

Top is 6mm to match thickness of foam and plexi, lower is 5.5mm (and seemed to fit a little better). I'm probably going to run them to start then it can print new latches. I don't think I'll be printing anything but ABS so my panels wont come off much. Printed the other one and it *works* but my overhangs are a little sloppy on the ender so the moving piece wiggles quite a bit.

[MrSprinklz]

11 hours ago, zav3nd said:

so my panels wont come off much.

I've taken mine off so many times just for maintenance and not once for other materials. It's still so nice to have them. That's why I went with the fridge door as well.

[Dirk]

11 hours ago, zav3nd said:

I don't think I'll be printing anything but ABS so my panels wont come off much.

I was going to write: " trust me, you will take off those panels more often than you want, even when you print ABS only".

But @MrSprinklz beat me to it

[MrSprinklz]

1 minute ago, Dirk said:

I was going to write: " trust me, you will take off those panels more often than you want, even when you print ABS only".

But @MrSprinklz beat me to it

That's why I hated the snap latches for my V0, the screw heads overlap the panels. I went to Zero panels instead. Snap latches for V2 and Trident are great though

[claudermilk]

I switch between ABS and PLA on my Trident all the time and those snap latches are one of the best mods I added. Pulling the panels for maintenance and PLA is so easy with them.

[zav3nd]

CNC Tap Showed up Today. So I mounted stealthburner. Couldn't bring myself to cut belts yet just so I can double check everything. At some point this week I snuck the bed on.

Then I prepped the electronics.

Days don't really seem to work when sometimes there is only 30mins to fiddle with. But feel free to consider this "Day 6".

[zav3nd]

Day 7 - More Electronics, Wiring Starts.

 

Super fun pulling jumpers off, decided to do it on the table instead of on the rail.

 

I was going to slap the heatsinks on there, but then I read this post.

 

Then getting to wiring, the PSU wires are too short and I kept scooting the PSU closer. Non inverted electronics might be a decent fit, but even then there wouldn't be much left for any kind of routing. Not sure how much the PSU needs the support bracket?

 

 

End point for the day. Everything got scootched closer. And now that wires aren't a complete mess, kit doesn't include a ground for the frame. So I might be extending wires sooner than I thought.

 

 

Edited March 11 by zav3nd

[zav3nd]

Day 8 - More Wires. Short Wires, Long Wires. Miswired?(<-Hope Not)

Seems like all the other wires have quite a bit of excess but seems like everything below deck was made to *just* fit.

 

Need to check these wires, the color is opposite of vorons doc, maybe fine but I'd rather check now. Edit: yeah it should be fine.

 

 

 

I started laying out the XY chains to make sure they are the correct length. Seems like it might be 'easier' to pull the wires through before putting the chains on? Also didn't really consider tap wiring so I suppose I should figure that out. I see the appeal of CAN or a toolhead pcb and I haven't even messed with the wires on that side...

Edited March 13 by zav3nd