Voron TAP - New No probe mod from the Voron Design Team

[Buurman]

Solution: Wired it to the PC15 pin (same row for Probe) and this works. I guess the PB1 has some leaking voltage to it. dont know what its for, but dont use it for TAP on the FLY SHT36 v2 (SHT36v2)

First it didnt trigger, but was able to loosen te manets by just a little so it lowered a bit more, and then it triggered perfectly.

 

[Penatr8tor]

Well... It looks like I was just a little bit optimistic on the shipping of my CNC TAP... Right now it's still in between China and the US so it's gonna be a week or so before I get mine. Everyone seems to be in the same boat, wanting but not getting what they ordered as soon as they wanted. 

[billbr]

Postman just delivered my CNC Tap WooHoo!  I ordered it the minute I saw Steve Builds wag his around.  Now if I could just get my CanBus to behave...

[Pappy3831]

I had just decided not to replace my 9 rail carriage. May have to rethink this. That’s awesome!!

[Penatr8tor]

@Pappy3831 I have one in front of me. They are very nicely made and the precision can be felt when actuating the mechanism. IMO it's an improvement over the printed version in that it's thinner and less prone to breaking or warping, etc. I think the printed and CNC version are equal enough in accuracy that it's not really a factor.

[Pappy3831]

Just looked at the chaotic lab tap. I like it. Did you have any issues installing the can bud vs installing on printed parts?

[Pappy3831]

Can bus. Dang spell thing phone crap. 

[mvdveer]

59 minutes ago, Pappy3831 said:

Just looked at the chaotic lab tap. I like it. Did you have any issues installing the can bud vs installing on printed parts?

The Canbus installation is not dependant on the type of TAP as it fits to the extruder/ extruder motor, depending on the model of canbus you have. . There are plenty of mounts for the CW2 extruder used on the Stealthburner.  No matter which TAP you use, the canvas installation will be the same.

[mvdveer]

56 minutes ago, Pappy3831 said:

Can bus. Dang spell thing phone crap. 

You can edit your post and correct spelling mistakes after posting,  if you wish rather than reposting.

[Pappy3831]

Nah. I’m used to the auto correct goofs. Drives the wife nuts when I text her. Plus it depends on whether or not I have my glasses on. I’m looking at the big tree tech ebb 2240 v1. I’ll listen to any thoughts or advice as at this point I will be totally out of my league. Aside from programming killer and proper installation will I need any type of expansion board or anything that big tree lists on their website?

[mvdveer]

4 hours ago, Pappy3831 said:

killer and proper installation will I need any type of expansion board or anything that big tree lists on their website?

Depends which printer board you are running. If you have an octopus board, then you do not need any other board as Octopus can drive the canbus. If not, then you will for example,  either need a PiHat (waveshare) or a FLY-UTOC-1 from Mellow Fly. These act as the CAN interface between the pi and the Canboard. There are others available as well.

[Pappy3831]

I’ll have to check as it’s been so long since I’ve done anything with the build I don’t remember. I ordered the BTT2240 with the U2C card so figured I’m good for pressing on with that. Now it’s just the process of waiting for the parts to arrive.  Need to look to see what I need to upgrade to the CW2 and Stealthburner and decide which hot end I’m going to put in. Got the high flow dragon, the V6 and the revo micro.  I’ll make the parts for all three since it looks like the SB with can bus installed would make swapping easier. Then just depends on what speed I’m printing to which hot end I’m using. 

[Pappy3831]

I was planning on going completely sensorless, befitting of my wife’s description of me. Ordered the chaotic labs machined tap for the voron. If I choose to go with the Hall effect is this possible?  Thinking in another conversation you had one already. Unless it was somebody else. In that case disregard unless you have knowledge to share.

[mRqS]

Just ordered mine. Hope it won't take ages  One question to those of you, who already got it:

Does it require the X-Y switches to be installed on TAP (that's how it looks in the manual) or I can leave them as per original Voron design?

[Penatr8tor]

@mRqS Whatever you're using for X and Y end-stops, be it switches or sensorless homing will work without modification. You won't need the safe Z switch at the rear of the bed anymore after TAP. There is also a provision for users that have an X limit switch on their toolhead and if you already have one then they provide you with a place to mount it but if you don't have one... don't install it. 

[mRqS]

8 hours ago, Penatr8tor said:

@mRqS Whatever you're using for X and Y end-stops, be it switches or sensorless homing will work without modification. You won't need the safe Z switch at the rear of the bed anymore after TAP. There is also a provision for users that have an X limit switch on their toolhead and if you already have one then they provide you with a place to mount it but if you don't have one... don't install it. 

I do have the printed TAP currently.

I was only confused by the manual, which had the x switch on the carriage and nowhere mentioned it's an option.

Thanks for the clarification (I use the switch board on the gantry).

Thanks!

[Pappy3831]

On 5/12/2023 at 5:30 PM, Penatr8tor said:

@Pappy3831 I have one in front of me. They are very nicely made and the precision can be felt when actuating the mechanism. IMO it's an improvement over the printed version in that it's thinner and less prone to breaking or warping, etc. I think the printed and CNC version are equal enough in accuracy that it's not really a factor.

Question Penatr8tor. I ordered mine from chaotic labs. Are you still able to use the Hall effect for your xy endstops?  Or do you have to go either sensorless or switch to microswitches?  Just wondering so I can plan accordingly for when all my parts get here. Seems they’re all on the slow boat from China.  Except for one which shows it’s been in Australia the last 5 days. 

[Penatr8tor]

 

@Pappy3831

I don't have the hall effect sensors on any of my printers so I can't say for certain but if you don't currently have anything hanging off the printhead that is not Voron TAP compatible, I'm pretty sure you'll be fine. 

 

 

 

 

[billbr]

On 5/18/2023 at 12:02 PM, Pappy3831 said:

Question Penatr8tor. I ordered mine from chaotic labs. Are you still able to use the Hall effect for your xy endstops?  Or do you have to go either sensorless or switch to microswitches?  Just wondering so I can plan accordingly for when all my parts get here. Seems they’re all on the slow boat from China.  Except for one which shows it’s been in Australia the last 5 days. 

Moving to Tap was my excuse to change to CANbus, add a Roseworks magbed, and remove my cable chain on the V2.4. So I went sensorless homing as well. Everything runs fine together without endstop switches. I used Mellow CAN for the toolhead and Octopus bridge mode for the controller. The Tap just looks like a virtual endstop to Klipper and doesn't interact with other endstops. I've been happy with Chaotic Labs variant of Tap thus far.

[Pappy3831]

1 minute ago, billbr said:

Moving to Tap was my excuse to change to CANbus, add a Roseworks magbed, and remove my cable chain on the V2.4. So I went sensorless homing as well. Everything runs fine together without endstop switches. I used Mellow CAN for the toolhead and Octopus bridge mode for the controller. The Tap just looks like a virtual endstop to Klipper and doesn't interact with other endstops. I've been happy with Chaotic Labs variant of Tap thus far.

Still waiting for mine to show up. Since tap is taking place of the probe, is the bat85 diode no longer required?  And other than the weight of the cable chains, does it hurt to run the umbilical through the cable chains if long enough?  Got the BTT SB2240 for the tool head and a UTC for down under.   Wish the boat from China would put it in high gear. 

[billbr]

On 5/23/2023 at 1:42 PM, Pappy3831 said:

Since tap is taking place of the probe, is the bat85 diode no longer required?  And other than the weight of the cable chains, does it hurt to run the umbilical through the cable chains if long enough?  Got the BTT SB2240 for the tool head and a UTC for down under.   

Since I went to CANbus at the same time, my toolhead board changed to Mellow SB2040. That toolhead board hooks up directly to Tap. (Their instructions are good with respect to TAP).  Tap just looks like an endstop switch to the controller as I understand it. I have ejected cable chains from the game by using CAN but would suspect that it shouldn't be a problem.  I didn't end up using my UTOC as my V2.4 is running Octopus and can directly talk to CAN using the bridge mode.

[Shpyda]

On 5/23/2023 at 4:38 PM, billbr said:

Moving to Tap was my excuse to change to CANbus, add a Roseworks magbed, and remove my cable chain on the V2.4. So I went sensorless homing as well. Everything runs fine together without endstop switches. I used Mellow CAN for the toolhead and Octopus bridge mode for the controller. The Tap just looks like a virtual endstop to Klipper and doesn't interact with other endstops. I've been happy with Chaotic Labs variant of Tap thus far.

I want to get a magbed and was concerned about how it might adversely affect Voron Tap. Since implementing that combination have you noticed any issues? Do you do dynamic meshing, and if so, are you able to work around the magnets? Just wondering what this all looks like before I bite the bullet on this upgrade as I've been really happy with how well Tap has performed so far.

[Penatr8tor]

@Shpyda, I seem to remember the Voron team saying the TAP was not compatible with Magbeds. Something about flex in the PEI sheet under the magnets or something along those lines. I would check the TAP manual to confirm before pulling the plug. FWIW... Having had a regular old stick on mag sheet on my last 5 printers with no issues, I'm wondering why fix or change what doesn't seem to have any issues. Unless you bed is already warped but even then... bed mesh solves that issue.