Jump to content

Voron TAP - New No probe mod from the Voron Design Team


mvdveer

Recommended Posts

After watching the video - not for the faint hearted and not for the Switchwire or Vo. Fascinating science. Another important message is that you need a well build printer as this will highlight the slightest flaw in the build. Don't know if I want to go there - it might show that my printers are not as good as I thought. This is Next Level!

  • Like 2
Link to comment
Share on other sites

4 minutes ago, mvdveer said:

How about we see that V0 my friend ?

Ouch! 🤣 Yes you're right, I'm old my concentration wand.....ooooo....look at that spider, it's 7 got  legs

(I've been "battling" with Klippy so I'll need to post 🤔)

  • Haha 2
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Well it's a mod I want to get on when I have the 2.4 doom cube in coming.

The mention of not for a switchwire is sad but maybe one of the elder conversion mods can test it. As far as I know 2 rails are more stable.

The only conclusion would be 2 mgn12 rails with hiwin as a mod with a very precise Aluminium plate and full Aluminium gantry parts.

I wish I had a 5 axes mill then I would build one *dreams*

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

2 hours ago, mvdveer said:

After watching the video - not for the faint hearted and not for the Switchwire or Vo. Fascinating science. Another important message is that you need a well build printer as this will highlight the slightest flaw in the build. Don't know if I want to go there - it might show that my printers are not as good as I thought. This is Next Level!

Love it! These guys just took hours, days weeks out of their lives to design, test, test some more, and test again... pretty interesting!

Also... lot heavier than current solution, even with klicky mount, and during printing you lose the weight of the probe, since he puts that back.

But... (and I seen this clickable nozzle also on the newest Prusa, I do think, for someone who doesnt try to print on extreme speeds... pretty awesome!

Link to comment
Share on other sites

1 hour ago, smirk said:

You have set yourself a chalenge!

Well indeed I could try to mill them in the company but the mechanics would kill me for it.

Even if I had the mererial I would need some money.

Here in Germany the company's that print with sml zaking a lot of money for single parts. I know the there are different shops that sell Aluminium parts for the 2.4 but not for the SW.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

To the mentioning of high speed : I wouldn't print on the 2.4 with more then 150 to 200 (don't know right now if that is a high end speed)

On the SW I would be happy if 1 could reach 100 to 180 with good results for making masks and other "different" stuff.

Maybe I will try out a decent build with the SW on 2 rails. In a matter of fact that could be also possible. But first after the SW I need the 2.4 and I Def will try that probe build.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

You get the most speed out of acceleration, most speed focussed builds are not so much tuned on this mm/s but on acceleration.

so yet, 120 mm/s is fine, its what you do with the rest.. also, you dont use that speed for everything, at least, if you like pretty prints... outside parameter is at 50% or so with me, im sure I can speed that up, but speed is only important in cars for me 😛  

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Looks Fantastic but for me the only potential issue is that i have whoopingchards 3 point kinematic bed mounts on my 2.4 350 and the pressure to activate the tap might be to much on certain points on the rear corner sides of my bed and cause it to push the bed down and lift the opposite corner which could possibly need stiffer/thicker spring plates but definitely interested in it….

Link to comment
Share on other sites

My first printer (I still have it) was a TEVO Tarantula. No auto anything - totally manually adjusted. After I built my Voron, I was intrigued by Klippy and others that probe the bed directly. The comments and problems associated with these solutions have scared me off from trying any of them. Once I have dialed in the Z endstop measurement, it's usually dead-on to what it should be. I always look at the first layer skirt or brim bead - if I see something off, I make adjustments on the fly and if, necessary, adjust the Z endstop value in the config file after I am done with the printer for the day. That has seemed to work fairly well for me. I would love a more automatic solution to this problem, but it seems the solution is more effort and potential trouble than what I am doing. If someone can say the benefits far outweigh the trouble to use a direct probe, then I am all ears.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

That was an amazing livestream. I got my rail ordered from Fabreeko before they ended the stream. Got ahead of The Hug there. The primary optical sensor is out of stock at Digikey and shipping costs more than the sensor at Mouser. I'll wait for our favorite 3D Printing suppliers to add these to their catalogs.

I am totally doing this mod, especially in light of my recent struggles. The blob of doom that yanked the Klicky probe off its dock and fractured the tool head mount, Then the multiple attempts to get a solid replacement installed--finally have a good NlickyNG on there and spares printed. This should eliminate all that. 

From what I understand it also does away with the z endstop pin (or Sexbolt). Remove that point of failure since the toolhead itself will probe the nozzle on the bed itself. It should also eliminate "zed negative China" nozzle crashes.

I can live with the 2mm Y loss, and possibly regain at least some with the Sexbolt mount removed, allowing the bed to shift backwards a bit.

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

9 hours ago, RopusLongus said:

The mention of not for a switchwire

AS I understand from the stream, switchwire and 1.8 probes are in development and will be released when they are ready. And for V0. No timeline for those but TAP for V2 and Trident will be released before November 24th

Link to comment
Share on other sites

5 hours ago, RepRapster3D said:

Looks Fantastic but for me the only potential issue is that i have whoopingchards 3 point kinematic bed mounts on my 2.4 350 and the pressure to activate the tap might be to much on certain points on the rear corner sides of my bed and cause it to push the bed down and lift the opposite corner which could possibly need stiffer/thicker spring plates but definitely interested in it….

The team say to put a 600g weight on the bed and if it moves - this won't work

Link to comment
Share on other sites

3 hours ago, SuperBoppy said:

My first printer (I still have it) was a TEVO Tarantula. No auto anything - totally manually adjusted. After I built my Voron, I was intrigued by Klippy and others that probe the bed directly. The comments and problems associated with these solutions have scared me off from trying any of them. Once I have dialed in the Z endstop measurement, it's usually dead-on to what it should be. I always look at the first layer skirt or brim bead - if I see something off, I make adjustments on the fly and if, necessary, adjust the Z endstop value in the config file after I am done with the printer for the day. That has seemed to work fairly well for me. I would love a more automatic solution to this problem, but it seems the solution is more effort and potential trouble than what I am doing. If someone can say the benefits far outweigh the trouble to use a direct probe, then I am all ears.

Nothing wrong with that approach. In the end, all we want are good consistent prints.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

2 hours ago, claudermilk said:

I am totally doing this mod, especially in light of my recent struggles. The blob of doom that yanked the Klicky probe off its dock and fractured the tool head mount, Then the multiple attempts to get a solid replacement installed--finally have a good NlickyNG on there and spares printed. This should eliminate all that. 

 

You got your solution then - looking forward to seeing the end result and getting your review of TAP.

BTW: Will be doing this as well, just more difficult getting the parts down under.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

3 hours ago, claudermilk said:

I got my rail ordered from Fabreeko before they ended the stream.

Wow! Could not find it on Fabreeko as yet (50mm length) Or did you oder a full rail and going to shorten it yourself?

Found it - looked with boy eyes

Edited by mvdveer
Corrected message
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Paste as plain text instead

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.

×
×
  • Create New...