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Voron 2.4 R2 350 Octopus + StealthBurner + Clockwork2 + Klicky + SexBolt


Buurman
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Starting building soon, most parts are delivered or in transport now. had some delay of Formbot city lockdown, but LDO is having massive delays also (even worse).

Expecting to start building in about two weeks.... to be continued! 

Voron Kit:
Formbot 2.4 R3 350
Vulcan SF

Printed Parts:
ASA Carbon Black & Neon Yellow (Neon Yellow was self sources, not a default color offered)
High Quality prints from Mehmet (Turkey) on Etsy 5 star rating
https://www.etsy.com/nl/shop/Yacime3D?ref=simple-shop-header-name&listing_id=1188668167

Wiring:
Decided to buy an all black kit + SB kit from OneTwo3D.co.uk

LCD:
BTT Pi TFT50 v2.0 - BigTreeTech

Electronics:
Need to decide to mount things normal, or vertical, see what brings best space and cooling.

Ventilation/filtering:
Nevermore Duo with two Delta fans. Mostly for the hot air distribution, but filtering helps. 🙂
VEFACH filter outlet MOD

Edited by Buurman
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  • Buurman changed the title to Voron 2.4 R2 350 Octopus + StealthBurner + Clockwork2 + Klicky + SexBolt

Only thing I could do today is print the piTFT50 case and 45 degree mod.

Biggest challenge here is getting the flatcable into the slot, its tricky, wiggle it a bit to get it in without breaking the slot. (yes it happend to me on another one)

https://github.com/VoronDesign/VoronUsers/tree/master/printer_mods/CannedBass/PITFT50_45_degree_mount

And this is the case (also named mount, but its just the case) 😉 I need this one in 7" also, I love it, fits perfect.

https://github.com/VoronDesign/VoronUsers/tree/master/printer_mods/alanho/BTT_PITFT50_v2_Mount

I will print this later again in Exturdr Neon Yellow ASA, I am pretty sure... for now its REAL Matte Black PLA.

I noticed the SEAM is aweful on the photo, I need to turn down the acceleration a bit on my Ender5, and I disabled retraction on layer change.

This should prevent this, its printing insane fast for an Ender5, but still need to optimize some things.

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Edited by Buurman
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Received the printer today, it came from China with some delay because of lockdown of their city, but when shipped, it made it here in an impressive 4 days.
With coming from China to Netherlands (Europe) I did have to pay import Tax, yet, normally you can also order to have it shipped from Europe/USA and prevent the Tax. 

Box is about 25 Kilo. and very well packaged, the Formbot parts, I need to say, impressive quality, cant wait to get started. 
Made some pictures of the unpacking, could be useful/interesting for someone out there... 😉

Moons Motors, I myself wont use the pancake, since I will be installing the Stealthburner, and that needs a round pancake.
Even the BMG extruder parts look high quality, and the linear rails feel much better than what I am using myself on my Ender 5, but I am sure I will run into something 😉

 

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Edited by Buurman
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Got the ASA printed parts today, so let the build begin! (already did the 4 vertical rails)

FEET! 😉 happy feet, or maybe in this case,, angry feet....

Now I realised how many small parts there are, can take you 10/15 minutes alone to find everything you need... 🙂 even though I am organized...

Very satisfying to put together I must say! It all fits so well and its soooooo smooth... 

small TIPs:

  • Put the part where the pulley/axis goes in on the top part, so it can spin freely during assembly.
  • Also, maybe not too clear in the manual, push the pulleys together in this assembly, so against the center ball bearing.
  • Check if the belt is staying central after assembly, I had to move mine a little, even though I had put the pulley on the far edge of the axis. (with this measurement print/tool)

 

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Edited by Buurman
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Not that you'd need it after your Voron is complete, but if you ever wanted to print ASA parts again on an open printer I could tell you how. 😉 

Enjoy the build!

Edited by SVDB
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Today.. Gantry and ...  I think some of you have nightmares still..... BELTS!!! I think I am going to dream about front idles tonight.. 

I dont see myself as an idiot normally, but had to put them together 3 times, maybe 4... kept switching things around and developed a new love for putting washers in small places 😛

Things I learned (maybe should have watched a video?):

  • Start with the belts on the back, otherwise you never get there...
  • take out the m3 screw of the front idler when putting the belt in, now you stand a chance 😉
  • Print these gantry holders (green) to use instead of ty-rips, much better, no up or down, easy to insert with one hand or release.



     
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Edited by Buurman
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Nice! Yeah, a couple of videos might have helped a bit. I watched all of Nero's and Steve Builds' videos at the time before my build. One thing that Steve figured out and note during his Trident build was running the belts around the idlers so that you are pushing the belt into the extrusion. With a little curve added it kind of feeds itself through. I also knew to be very careful about routing the back so that the belts are only on bearing stacks or pulleys and never running against plastic.

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On 5/9/2022 at 8:24 PM, SVDB said:

Not that you'd need it after your Voron is complete, but if you ever wanted to print ASA parts again on an open printer I could tell you how. 😉 

Enjoy the build!

May still be useful to know, since I need to print 2 WAGO holders for under the bed, PLA wont stand a chance there 😛 

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After some failed prints on my Ender 5 with ASA, I managed to get two WAGO mounts printer for under the bed, hurraayy! 😉 

I added 2, one on the default place, one more under the bed, I needed more than 5 connections, since I also wanted to put the nevermore filter on it. 
I also didnt solder the heatbreaker/protection from under the bed, but connected it over the wago, that takes one more wago.

I had no issues placing the Sexbolt next to the wago and close to the bed, I read some had issues with the 350 bed, but for me its all in range of the nozzle.

NEXT... MORE WIRES!!

 

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LEt me start by mentioning that I decided to buy an additional wire harness from onetwo3d.co.uk and its a LINNEO made in Spain.
I personally would NOT buy one again, its simply too expensive and you STILL need to cut wires and adjust a lot, and there are not even wires added for the 4 Z motors.
The wires are beautiful, high quality nylon instead of silicon, and that also makes them very light and slim, but simply too expensive, and it took 6 weeks to deliver.
But for me, the wires that were enclosed with the Formbot kit are absolutely fine, complete, and all plugs are fitting directly without (almost any) customizing.
Only at the hotend duct, you need to put plugs on some things and shorten wires anyhow to make it fit.

TIPS:
Formbot kit now also has wire rails that you can open up, my advise here, mount them to your printer as suggested, but to make wiring easier, unclick the ends from the rails, so leave the screwed down part on the printer, so you are only holding the rail. Put the wires through, close, and click it back to the screwed down ends, very easy!

At the STEALTHBURNER, just take it one wire at the time, cut off extra length of the wires (dont be scared) 😉 and put on new plugs, contra to the ones on the wire harness.
There is surprisingly much space inside the stealthburner/clockwork2 combination, and it closed without ANY pressure. 

TIP:
I am installing the Klicky so you dont need the 24V+ on that wire, just the GRD and SIGNAL wire. (default probe is 3, klicky just needs 2)

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The secret sauce to print ASA/ABS on a open printer is... (drumroll...) a really large plastic bag used as an enclosure.
I printed all my Voron parts with ASA this way on a (modified) Artillery X1. Works like a charm.

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16 hours ago, SVDB said:

The secret sauce to print ASA/ABS on a open printer is... (drumroll...) a really large plastic bag used as an enclosure.
I printed all my Voron parts with ASA this way on a (modified) Artillery X1. Works like a charm.

hahaha, I woudnt leave the house, but I will try it if I need it still! 

Without, impossible, even the smallest print warps... yes, closed doors, etc... no fans... no parts fan... 

plastic bag it is!

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Just for future searches, or when I forget 🙂

Had to adjust the rotation_distance and gear_ratio for the StealthBurner/CW2 combination, NEMA14 round Moons pancake motor.

Gear_ratio: 50:10 (old setting 50:17)

Rotation_distance 22.100 (eyeballing it) 😛

Ran PID's for bed and extruder and quite reasonable changes there, so very advised to run.

Klicky is just a beast and love it, but had trouble finding out how to set offset....

This was fixed with looking into the z_calibration tool, what a master of an idea.
Should never have to worry about offset again, changing nozzles OR changing magnetic plate.
https://github.com/protoloft/klipper_z_calibration

The offset that you only set manually (ones) is the switch_offset (difference between clicky to nozzle) thats then added to your config.

Now finetuning my start and end code, since that can keep you busy too, I do this while printing my first addition MODS.

Purge bucket/scrub mod, works nice it seems, but I do have to find a new place for my klicky it seems....I think bucket will go right and Z switch and klicky left.

After that the Vefach filter mod, the original is the only thing I think they dropped the ball a bit on design, air can easily go around your filter, if you dont really stuff it full, but the whole concept is.. muah.

https://github.com/VoronDesign/VoronUsers/pull/706

Seems way better, to bad still the bulky design on the back of the printer, but its ok.

Well, I am printing, already happy!! Second Formbot is on its way... should be her tomorrow or next week 😛

 

Edited by Buurman
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Congrats on finishing. Now it's cereal time!

For purge bucket/nozzle scrubber + Klicky I have the Klicky dock in its normal position to the left and the purge bucket is on the right. The purge macros are set up to handle the shift, just carefully read through the extensive comments in the cfg file.

Also, yes, tuning your macros will keep you occupied for a while now.

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