Milo V1.5 CNC Bench Mill - Water Cooled - Casa Enclosure

[claudermilk]

OK, that's not quite what I was thinking. Very cool, and it holds well enough to allow the part to be machined without using mechanical clamps. Very slick.

[Penatr8tor]

20 hours ago, PFarm said:

@Penatr8tor, Thank you, Peter. I appreciate the explanation on how to do this. I still have a lot to learn in both design and CAM, but it's coming along. Trial and error is sometimes the best way to learn. 

No worries Jack, Happy to help.

Besides... Whatever I help you with I will probably end up using in my build. 

[Penatr8tor]

@PFarm I'm wondering how/if printed TPU sealing shapes might work with that vise. 

[PFarm]

1 minute ago, Penatr8tor said:

@PFarm I'm wondering how/if printed TPU sealing shapes might work with that vise. 

I've never printed TPU is there a different density available? Was planning on using a 3.5 mm O ring.

[Penatr8tor]

17 minutes ago, PFarm said:

I've never printed TPU is there a different density available? Was planning on using a 3.5 mm O ring.

The problem with printing TPU is that it's flexible, too flexible and you have trouble pushing it with an extruder. The other issue is that it's extremely hygroscopic (absorbs water). Most TPU is 95A and that works well for most applications. It's also the same density as o-ring and tire rubber so it can be used for seals and gaskets.

These two skulls were printed using the same g-code. The one on the right was printed with filament that sat out in the open for a week and the one on the left I printed with the same filament but dried for 8 hours to ~10% humidity.

The material is super tough and should seal well enough to use in the Vac Vice. I was thinking make 3-4 different sized rectangular shaped seals for different sized materials.

Anyway... Just thinking out loud. Seeing if 3d printing can help with CNC milling Hahaha.

Here's a TPU replacement oil fill seal for my nephews 2008 Chevy Cobalt SS

[PFarm]

@Penatr8tor In your opinion, looking at the two air chuck designs. The creator of the plate is concerned that the rounded edges now give the O-ring more room to push out. I tend to disagree; I think the round edge eliminates the possibility of a crease/kink in the corners

 

Edited August 8, 2025 by PFarm

[PFarm]

@Penatr8tor What is the easiest way to downsize the model so I can 3D print it as a prototype?

[Penatr8tor]

1 minute ago, PFarm said:

The creator of the plate is concerned that the rounded edges now give the O-ring more room to push out.

I'm guessing that occurs when edges of the part are very close to the o-ring. There are going to be instances where you'll have to make a choice of larger vacuum area (holding power) versus risking losing your seal because an edge is close to the o-ring.

[Penatr8tor]

1 minute ago, PFarm said:

@Penatr8tor What is the easiest way to downsize the model so I can 3D print it as a prototype?

Chop a big section out of the middle and join the two ends together.

[PFarm]

14 minutes ago, Penatr8tor said:

I'm guessing that occurs when edges of the part are very close to the o-ring. There are going to be instances where you'll have to make a choice of larger vacuum area (holding power) versus risking losing your seal because an edge is close to the o-ring.

Yes, the size of the stock will also affect the holding capacity of a small part, and the chuck may not hold it. The cutting force applied is also another factor. 

Here is an interesting calculator and video that is useful for milling aluminum. Some on Discord have been using it successfully.  

Calculator

 

 

Edited August 8, 2025 by PFarm

[Penatr8tor]

Thanks, that'll be a good tool to have.

@PFarm Here... I made you a quick and dirty multi-sized vac plate. Just click large or small in the configuration selector in the upper left corner in the browser and watch the magic.

VacuumPlate 2 size.f3z

[Penatr8tor]

19 minutes ago, PFarm said:

Yes, the size of the stock will also affect the holding capacity of a small part, and the chuck may not hold it. The cutting force applied is also another factor. 

Here's something to consider as well. The size of the chamfer around the islands will have a dramatic effect on sealing. Too large and there's not enough vertical wall for the o-ring to squeeze against and once the o-ring starts to roll over the edge of the chamfer it may cause a cascade effect and completely lose seal. So, if I were to design one for me... I would keep the island chamfers to <= 0.5mm

[PFarm]

11 minutes ago, Penatr8tor said:

Here's something to consider as well. The size of the chamfer around the islands will have a dramatic effect on sealing. Too large and there's not enough vertical wall for the o-ring to squeeze against and once the o-ring starts to roll over the edge of the chamfer it may cause a cascade effect and completely lose seal. So, if I were to design one for me... I would keep the island chamfers to <= 0.5mm

Got you, I can set the chamfer size in CAM so good info!

[Penatr8tor]

1 minute ago, PFarm said:

Got you, I can set the chamfer size in CAM so good info!

You can set it in the CAD model too. 

[PFarm]

Got these custom bellows made from Dragon Diamond on AliExpress. Front bellows printed parts are from @yaboi_speng-lad on Discord, and rear printed parts from @Luigivada on Discord. Step files from both of them were modified to suit my purpose.

Dimensions for the rear bellows.

Dimensions for the front bellows both are 200mm long.

Very well made, both ends of the bellows have a thick mounting plate. On the inside, every second pleat has a support.

There's a modified bearing mount

 

Moved the Y endstop to a custom mounting bracket. Need to reprint it had too many walls in the slicer from a previous print.

 

Drill and tap the front plate for M3 screws.

Front and rear bellows have a custom bracket to attach the bellows to the X/Y plate.

Note: I did lose some Y travel at the rear due to the bellows thickness.

Edited August 9, 2025 by PFarm

[PFarm]

Aluminum stock arrived today for the air chuck. 

[PFarm]

Got the SWM universal fixture plate. Printed spacers are temporary till I figure out what I want to do. Making some aluminum plates for the securing slot.

 

Edited August 13, 2025 by PFarm

[PFarm]

@Penatr8tor Need your expertise again. I can't get the hole in the model where I want it when referencing it for the curved end. What do I need to do to put the hole where I want it?

 

Edited August 14, 2025 by PFarm

[claudermilk]

Are you using Fusion?

[PFarm]

1 hour ago, claudermilk said:

Are you using Fusion?

Yes Fusion. Never mind I figured out a way to get the holes where I want them. Thanks!

Edited August 15, 2025 by PFarm

[Penatr8tor]

41 minutes ago, PFarm said:

Yes Fusion. Never mind I figured out a way to get the holes where I want them. Thanks!

Glad you got it figured out. 

[PFarm]

End mill collection is growing.

[Penatr8tor]

I'm always amazed at how much stuff one can collect in a short period of time. Especially bits.

[PFarm]

3 minutes ago, Penatr8tor said:

I'm always amazed at how much stuff one can collect in a short period of time. Especially bits.

It's only $$$$ LOL. Got to say it's not a cheap hobby!

Edited August 22, 2025 by PFarm

[Penatr8tor]

1 hour ago, PFarm said:

It's only $$$$ LOL. Got to say it's not a cheap hobby!

Even building FDM printers is expensive. I always laugh at the "cheapsters" out there that will endure excessive amounts of stress getting something to work just to save 20-30 bucks.

But like you said... It's an expensive hobby.