Orcaslicer

[7milesup]

Interesting.  I know that Orca did that print in about 2.5 hours whereas Cura was 7 hours.  I am currently trying it again in Cura but with higher speeds.

I have a Rapido hot-end, so I believe that it could do the speeds but will need to dive into the settings to adjust something.  Flow?  I would assume that a flow setting is dependent upon speed.

[mvdveer]

A new Beta release of Orcaslicer with some nice features has been released. 

Orca Slicer V1.8 Beta1

[7milesup]

Wow.  A lot of cool changes and fixes. 

Thanks for posting!

[Penatr8tor]

So, refreshing to see software that I use get updated. Definitely one of my geeky pleasures LOL.

I'm going to try the beta today. I'm really interested in trying out the overhang enhancements as that's been the source of much frustration since the beginning.

I'm also very interested in the new PA test and trying out the Pressure Equalizer feature. Hopefully Denzel Washington doesn't show up and kill my part. 

Yeah, Lot's of cool new features to try, some might even work.

Thanks for the heads up @mvdveer

[claudermilk]

Yes, thanks for the heads-up. Beta installed and I'm going to give it another try. Overhangs are the bane of my existence right now. Trying to get that teeny-tiny 0.15 nozzle working on the V0.2 and not having much luck, but even the Trident stopped giving decent overhangs on the small nozzles.

[Penatr8tor]

Installed mine and did some testing yesterday. Overhangs are challenging on any printer NGL.

[claudermilk]

I've updated to beta 2, not that it specifically helps my current struggle. However, I am making progress with Orca and am trying to make it my go-to for the V0. 

I'll split my overhangs issues to a separate thread.

[Penatr8tor]

2 hours ago, claudermilk said:

I've updated to beta 2, not that it specifically helps my current struggle. However, I am making progress with Orca and am trying to make it my go-to for the V0. 

I'll split my overhangs issues to a separate thread.

Chris... I responded, Also, I uploaded my overhang settings (OrcaSlicer latest Beta, version 2) in case you want to give them a try. 

[mvdveer]

7 hours ago, claudermilk said:

I've updated to beta 2

Just. heads up - there are report that Beta 2 ha a bug that came large prints to fail. (According to several users on discord)

[Penatr8tor]

@mvdveer I'm guessing you have to fill up the build plate to get it to fail. I've printed some 4-5 hour prints on Beta 2 with no issue. But then again... I'm only printing single parts.

[ChicagoKeri]

Having FINALLY  gotten a working print_start macro working and the matching .gcode on Orcaslicer...  it accomplished what I wanted:

Namely, on a print with large, flat top surfaces, PrusaSlicer always gives me a very bad top surface finish on the Voron 2.4, as if it is grossly over-extruding.  This is not an issue with curved top surfaces or very narrow ones, like the top of a vase.

Orcaslicer give a much improved top surface and it seems to print a bit faster as well.

PrusaSlicer never exhibited this on the Prusa MK3s.... could this be a poor profile? or perhaps anti-Prusa sabotage?

While I was at it, I actually got Cura working as well, but the print quality is noticeably poorer with worse walls and more stringing.

 

Many thanks to jontek2 for "A-Better-Print_Start-Macro"

[ken226]

I'm trying to migrate from PrusaSlicer to OrcaSlicer and kinda stumbling through.

 

Anyone know how to get rid of this:

 

 

Edit to add:

 

Nevermind. I figured it out.  Just had to uncheck the "label objects" and "exclude objects" checkboxes.

 

 

Edited December 1, 2023 by ken226

[mvdveer]

2 hours ago, ken226 said:

Just had to uncheck the "label objects" and "exclude objects" checkboxes.

Or if you want to use the feature, add

[exclude_object) into the printer.cfg file and alter the moonraker.conf as follows:

[file_manager]
# post processing for object cancel. Not recommended for low resource SBCs such as a Pi Zero. Default False 
enable_object_processing: True

If you are going to use it, just remember to tick the "label objects" tick box in Orcaslicer again

It is a wonderful feature to have.

If an object fails, comes loose from the plate, you can exclude it from the print. Very handy if you have a full plate.

[ken226]

I've got Orca Slicer printing pretty well so far,  but I can't figure out which setting to adjust for this.

 

There is a gap between the 1st layer infill and the inner perimeter.   It's only on the first layer.   The second and all subsequent layers are fine.  The top looks good also.

 

Bottom, with gap:

 

And the top. No gap.

 

[claudermilk]

Both the bottom and top layers look like it's underextruding to me. Have you done the Ellis tuning? Transferred the settings to Orca? Another thing to check is IMHO Orca has quite high speeds as default in its configs; I drop those to match my Superslicer tunings.

[ken226]

1 hour ago, claudermilk said:

Both the bottom and top layers look like it's underextruding to me. Have you done the Ellis tuning? Transferred the settings to Orca? Another thing to check is IMHO Orca has quite high speeds as default in its configs; I drop those to match my Superslicer tunings.

 

Yes.  I used the Ellis tuning guide to dial in my Klipper settings, ie rotation distance, pressure advance, etc.  I id all of its calibrations start to finish.

I also used each and every one of Orca Slicers built-in calibrations to dial in the slicer filament settings. 

 I'm pretty confident in The flow rate,  because I did the he flow rate test (the one with the 9 square swatches),  the 0 swatch was pretty much perfect.

 

also, I copied all of my speed settings from PrusaSlicer.  

 

Now that I'm thinking about it,   in those parts in the pics above, I had it set to print 3 perimeters.   But the bottom layer clearly only shows two.  It's missing the innermost perimeter?   The top has all 3 perimeters,so no gap.

that seems weird.

Edited December 1, 2023 by ken226

[ken226]

I think I might have it solved.  Another bonehead  oversight on my part.

 

I forgot to turn on skirts.   On such a small part,  I believe it's printing the inner perimeter first,  so with no skirt to prime he extruder,  it's probably just pushing air around the first perimeter.

I suspect that if the test part was bigger I'd have noticed, because there'd be a gap at the start of the inner perimeter rather than it being missing completely.

When I get home this afternoon I'll find the skirt settings and see if that fixes it.

[YaaJ]

Ellis tuning guide always gave underextrusion for me. Not a lot, just a tiny bit. For example, Elli's 95% becoming 96% IRL, adjusting flow while printing walls makes it easy to see the difference. Same with top layer.

Also, there's a parameter that could help : skin overlap (don't know how it's called in Slic3r grandsons, being a Cura user because of much more control) ; the overlaping of "top infill" on walls (or the opposite for first layer).

Inner or outer first... A cornelian choice. IMHO, for these parts, inner first is better (because of small holes), I tested the two options). But for aesthetics and outer dimensional accuracy, outer first is better... What slicer will offer odd number of walls, with the "center" one first, and then alterning on each side ? Could be a good compromise. Inner first holds plastic outside when printing outside, and vice versa...

Edited December 1, 2023 by YaaJ

[ken226]

22 hours ago, mvdveer said:

Or if you want to use the feature, add

[exclude_object) into the printer.cfg file and alter the moonraker.conf as follows:

[file_manager]
# post processing for object cancel. Not recommended for low resource SBCs such as a Pi Zero. Default False 
enable_object_processing: True

If you are going to use it, just remember to tick the "label objects" tick box in Orcaslicer again

It is a wonderful feature to have.

If an object fails, comes loose from the plate, you can exclude it from the print. Very handy if you have a full plate.

 

I didn't even know this existed,  but I just set it up and its working!  It isn't often that I need to stop printing one object from the plate and continue with the others, but it has happened a few times.  Thanks for the tip!

 

Also I did a test print with a single layer skirt added, as my purge/prime function.  It also worked.  No more gap between the infill and inner perimeter.

 

Thanks for the help!

 

Edited December 2, 2023 by ken226

[therm_virtual0y]

Anyone know how to have a different nozzle temperature when doing large top/bottom layers vs walls?

OrcaSlicer is my favorite slicer but with PLA the speeds get a little fast to print walls at the higher temperatures needed for the top/bottom layers.  I have a Voron 2.4 with Stealthburner and am thinking I might need a CPAP mod or something to print with PLA and not have to slow the stock settings way down.  Any insight would be greatly appreciated.  I have been reading and using this thread since day 1 of my Voron build and love the knowledge and help I have gained.

[mvdveer]

2 hours ago, therm_virtual0y said:

Anyone know how to have a different nozzle temperature when doing large top/bottom layers vs walls?

Don't know if it will work, but you can give it a try. Slice the object you want to print, then use the slider on the right to the point you want to change the temperature for the hotend.  Right click and enter custom gcode as an option.

]

and then enter m104 s220 as an example if you want to change the temp to 220

 

 

[claudermilk]

I just slow down the default Orca speeds, they are set stupid fast by default. I don't know where the team came up with the default speeds. As Nero says: I'd rather have a slower successful print than a fast fail.

[therm_virtual0y]

17 hours ago, claudermilk said:

I just slow down the default Orca speeds, they are set stupid fast by default. I don't know where the team came up with the default speeds. As Nero says: I'd rather have a slower successful print than a fast fail.

I’m starting to feel that too, but I love the game of pushing the limits and modifying the printer to get the desired outcome.  I’ll definitely try the gcode edit as mdvdeer suggested.  And post back 

thanks

 

[A-Man]

Hi guys, I have a question, so I want to install orca slicer on my Mac and there are two download options, whats the difference between the two options? Thx

[Simon2.4]

41 minutes ago, A-Man said:

Hi guys, I have a question, so I want to install orca slicer on my Mac and there are two download options, whats the difference between the two options? Thx

https://github.com/SoftFever/OrcaSlicer/releases

The one maked ARM is for newer macs

The one marked x86 is for the intel based Macs of the past