Orcaslicer

[Buurman]

@MikeOxawopper true, Cura has the most options on Support, I hoped Orca had some secret settings too, but guess not. SS isnt great also in this.

Support is like an unloved child I guess in Slicer world  ... ignored .. aaah that sounds soo sad...

[nickpeck47]

9 minutes ago, Buurman said:

@MikeOxawopper true, Cura has the most options on Support, I hoped Orca had some secret settings too, but guess not. SS isnt great also in this.

Support is like an unloved child I guess in Slicer world  ... ignored .. aaah that sounds soo sad...

The Orca "team"(?) seems to add things pretty quickly and they update very often.  Hopefully some of the oddball settings people are looking for show up soon  

[claudermilk]

Isn't the Base pattern spacing effectively the density? I'll be playing more with supports more  since I'm interested in the tree supports and SS doesn't have it still.

On to my experiences so far...

Just printed a couple of calibration cubes on the Mini to compare SS vs OS. Aside from forgetting to set Orca to single wall for the top layer, I really can't tell the difference. I've just done the Ellis PA & EM tuning & made my couple of tweaks to start & end gcode for handling the Revo. 

Being able to pull up the web interface is a nice bonus feature. I think I'll be able to make some good use of the multi-plate project concept with some projects coming up. I'm liking what I'm seeing so far. 

[Buurman]

41 minutes ago, claudermilk said:

Isn't the Base pattern spacing effectively the density? I'll be playing more with supports more  since I'm interested in the tree supports and SS doesn't have it still.

On to my experiences so far...

Just printed a couple of calibration cubes on the Mini to compare SS vs OS. Aside from forgetting to set Orca to single wall for the top layer, I really can't tell the difference. I've just done the Ellis PA & EM tuning & made my couple of tweaks to start & end gcode for handling the Revo. 

Being able to pull up the web interface is a nice bonus feature. I think I'll be able to make some good use of the multi-plate project concept with some projects coming up. I'm liking what I'm seeing so far. 

Hope you will share your support findings, very curious, but havent had time to test myself...

[claudermilk]

At least on the Revo-equipped Mini so far the 0.4mm nozzle calibration is good; calibration cubes look about the same. I'm trying to get the 0.15mm nozzle dialed in and that's proving tougher. It's close, but Orca's speeds just don't go well with the tiny orifice. I've copied over my SuperSlicer settings and it's getting there, but still coming a touch under extruded. It's also having some trouble with overhangs & the corners on the XY letters.

While the interface tab is nice, I'm not confident it's super stable. I've had Octoprint drop wifi connection a couple of times bad enough that I had to power cycle the Pi (after the print). That's new behavior since hooking up that feature on Orca.

I'm also learning how nice Tap is. The live Z calibration changed between nozzles; with Tap I don't care since it auto adjusts. The SuperPinda on the Mini can't. I've tried putting in a M290 instruction in the start gcode in Orca, but it doesn't seem like the Mini's Marlin is honoring that command. It's not much of a change, but just enough between the 0.4 and 0.15 nozzle (about 0.015mm) that it goes from a perfect layer to just dragging the tip on the plate.

[Buurman]

After giving it a lot of time and prints, Im back to Superslicer.

I love the project with multiple plates setup, other thinks that are ok is the layout but it still has the same pain as SS, and I think I can tune better n SS than in Orca.

But best reason, in Orca I cant get my prints to look perfect, while I can in SS. 

I also have issues with some travel that happens over infill and scratches the surface, I dont know why there is no Zhop happening, but there is something weird happening.

All in all, SS is just aas fast for me, but its waaaay more smooth of a print in sound, and parts look better too.

I just find it responses better to my tuning than Orca somehow. (flow/EM)

But I will miss the multibed layout!!! Superslicer sir!!!! you hear me?? 

For example, if you switch a nozzle diameter in SS, because all lines and flows are in percentage to this diameter, you dont have to set anything else, in Orca you have to set EVERY line width separately. and still it dont look right... SS is just better here.

From both I dont like the overlaps in place between printer settings/print setting and filament settings. I feel sometimes setting should be moved to another tap. But, im used to it now.

[PFarm]

3 hours ago, Buurman said:

After giving it a lot of time and prints, Im back to Superslicer.

Same here and for the same reason better quality parts in SS.

[Penatr8tor]

That's why we test things out right? Orcaslicer is definitely a different animal, I don't care if it's a fork of Prusa or Slic3r or Bambu... I agree, it prints differently. So far I haven't had any real performance issues printing PLA, I did a few ASA prints and I was having unusual 1st layer adhesion issues and went back to SS to print ASA. But Like I said, PLA is not bad and that's what I print mostly.

Check out today's prints. Quality is really nice IMO.

[nickpeck47]

33 minutes ago, Penatr8tor said:

That's why we test things out right? Orcaslicer is definitely a different animal, I don't care if it's a fork of Prusa or Slic3r or Bambu... I agree, it prints differently. So far I haven't had any real performance issues printing PLA, I did a few ASA prints and I was having unusual 1st layer adhesion issues and went back to SS to print ASA. But Like I said, PLA is not bad and that's what I print mostly.

Check out today's prints. Quality is really nice IMO.

Agreed!  I want to try SS, but man that install routine is... well I can't be nice at all lol.  Those prints look great btw.  Orca and PLA on my Voron looks fantastic, works great.

I seem to be having an issue when trying ABS, as once the bed gets to around 80 I get a Klipper shut down due to the bed taking to long to heat even though I PID tuned it at 100 and 110, which it heats to just fine that way.  Maybe it didn't save in the config or something?  All wiring is fine, went over it again just in case.

I did get one print to work with KVP Stellar Black ABS and it came out very solid.

[Penatr8tor]

1 hour ago, nickpeck47 said:

I seem to be having an issue when trying ABS, as once the bed gets to around 80 I get a Klipper shut down due to the bed taking to long to heat even though I PID tuned it at 100 and 110, which it heats to just fine that way.  Maybe it didn't save in the config or something?  All wiring is fine, went over it again just in case.

Funny you should say that... I don't want to scare you but... I had a very similar problem with my bed heater. Bed size is 300x300 and the heater was a Vivedino brand from Formbot. I had problems from 80c on up, Once I got to 100+ it stabilized. Over time the issue got worse and while talking about the issue with a friend we came up with the idea to just buy some thermistor assemblies from Amazon and bypass the heater thermistor. So, when I got the thermistors I pried open enough of the silicone heater mat so that I could shove the thermistor in between the aluminum and the heater. Then I just ran the wires into the bottom and swapped the bed thermistor on my Octopus board with the temporary thermistor. I ran my printer for a good 4 months with that work around. I guess the saying is true... Nothing's more permanent than a temporary fix that works... 

I'm not saying that's your problem but if you think it might be the bed heater thermistor... then just know that you can buy something like a 5 pack of thermistors for 10 bucks and test it.

In the end I ended up buying a new Honey Badger edge to edge heater from Fabreeko. Peeling off the old one was a pain but, in the end, it was worth the work and expense. For me anyway. 

[nickpeck47]

8 hours ago, Penatr8tor said:

Funny you should say that... I don't want to scare you but... I had a very similar problem with my bed heater. Bed size is 300x300 and the heater was a Vivedino brand from Formbot. I had problems from 80c on up, Once I got to 100+ it stabilized. Over time the issue got worse and while talking about the issue with a friend we came up with the idea to just buy some thermistor assemblies from Amazon and bypass the heater thermistor. So, when I got the thermistors I pried open enough of the silicone heater mat so that I could shove the thermistor in between the aluminum and the heater. Then I just ran the wires into the bottom and swapped the bed thermistor on my Octopus board with the temporary thermistor. I ran my printer for a good 4 months with that work around. I guess the saying is true... Nothing's more permanent than a temporary fix that works... 

I'm not saying that's your problem but if you think it might be the bed heater thermistor... then just know that you can buy something like a 5 pack of thermistors for 10 bucks and test it.

In the end I ended up buying a new Honey Badger edge to edge heater from Fabreeko. Peeling off the old one was a pain but, in the end, it was worth the work and expense. For me anyway. 

Honestly, you nailed it!  That's exactly my issue. Up to 80 it's fine, but heats at a slower rate on its way to 100 for some reason.  I have the 300mm 2.4 revC kit from Fabreeko, and was looking at the HB edge to edge wondering if that would be better.  Looks like I'll have to save up and do the same thing, though I'll probably get the cheap pack like you mentioned to test it out first. 

Thanks for the reply, glad it wasn't just me as I couldn't really get what the issue was as everything works fine other than the heating above 80 thing.

Edited May 15, 2023 by nickpeck47

[claudermilk]

I'm running into a bit of the same issue as @Buurman. I can't get Orca to get me the same results with the 0.15 nozzle. Granted, this is pushing the envelope of printer capabilities--and I'm having to play on the Mini instead of the Trident at the moment. That said, I was able to shift the SS 0.15mm tuning over to the Mini and get good results while OS seems to wand to push speeds and I get under extrusion. For the standard 0.4mm nozzle I have gotten equivalent results, but I'm wanting to try this shift for the tiny nozzles to do miniatures on the Mini since the small bed size is more suited.

[claudermilk]

I did some support tuning and comparison. Honestly, right now I'm kind of disappointed with the tree support. I'm testing on this support tuning model which I was pointed to by--I think--a Maker's Muse video on the topic.

I found that the tree supports uses more material and is more difficult to remove supports than the tuned standard grid ones. I probably need to do some more tuning for the Mini here (I transferred my Trident settings), but even grid support SS did a bit better on. Some corners have a nasty divot on the OS test that the SS one does not.

The top surface is close, but I again will give a slight edge to SS. Supported surfaces likewise are close, but the SS seems a hair cleaner.

A weird difference between the two is the Orca part has distinct Y axis belt VFAs while the SuperSlicer one does not. Not sure why, but it's a consideration.

For the minuscule 0.15mm nozzle I've actually had to slow Orca down so much to get good results that SuperSlicer is faster. Getting more-or-less equivalent settings on the main stuff, Orca takes about 20% longer on my test print. For normal nozzles, the faster settings are good, so this is a specific case.

So at least for my current project of getting the Mini tuned up as well as possible for doing minis like I've done on the Trident I think I'll be sticking with SuperSlicer for now.

[MikeOxawopper]

i guess this isnt the slicer i need then although it has some great features

[claudermilk]

I say give it a try and see for yourself. Don't let me discourage you. Again, for a typical 0.4mm nozzle, 0.2mm layer print it gives similar results as SuperSlicer for me--I'm just pushing the envelope on my current testing. I'm going hard mode.

[mvdveer]

8 hours ago, MikeOxawopper said:

i guess this isnt the slicer i need then although it has some great features

You won't know until you tried it. Has some very nice features but also has it quirks. If you are using a current slicer and have it tuned in, happy with it - stick to it. Have a play around with Orca just to see the differences.

 

[Wanderer22]

 

I like to use Orcaslicer with tree support and because superslicer doesn't get update for some time. My print_start and print_end below work well in SS. But gcode file from Orcaslicer doesn't start print, first line is drawn then it loops back to beginning of print_start macro over and over again.

My customed g-codes in Orcaslicer are just print_start and print_end

Does anyone have an idea how to fix this lopping problem? Thanks

[gcode_macro G32]
gcode:
    BED_MESH_CLEAR
    G28
    QUAD_GANTRY_LEVEL
    G28
    ##  Uncomment for 350mm build
    G0 X175 Y175 Z30 F3600

[gcode_macro PRINT_START]
#   Use PRINT_START for the slicer starting script - please customise for your slicer of choice
gcode:
    M104 S0                         # added for Orcaslicer,  Stops PS/SS from sending temp waits separately
    M140 S0                         # added for Orcaslicer
    G32                                 # home all axes and QGL
    M106 S50                       # Fan on approx. 20% to protect cooling ducts
    M140 S100                     # set bed temp
    G4 P350000                   # wait ~6 minutes before heating up extruder
    M104 S230                     # set first layer extruder temp - ABS
    M109 S230                     # wait for extruder temp - ABS
    CLEAN_NOZZLE             # Purge and wipe
    G28
    BED_MESH_PROFILE LOAD=default
    G0 X175 Y175 Z30 F3600
    G1 X0 Y20 Z0.3 F4000                 # move to start position
    G1 X0 Y200.0 Z0.3 F1500.0 E15  # draw the first line
    G1 Z3.0 F3000                              # move up z axis

[gcode_macro PRINT_END]
#   Use PRINT_END for the slicer ending script - please customise for your slicer of choice
gcode:
#    # safe anti-stringing move coords
#    {% set th = printer.toolhead %}
#    {% set x_safe = th.position.x + 20 * (1 if th.axis_maximum.x - th.position.x > 20 else -1) %}
#    {% set y_safe = th.position.y + 20 * (1 if th.axis_maximum.y - th.position.y > 20 else -1) %}
#    {% set z_safe = [th.position.z + 2, th.axis_maximum.z]|min %}
    
#    SAVE_GCODE_STATE NAME=STATE_PRINT_END
    G91                                          # Relative Positioning
    G0 Z40                                    # Lift nozzle by 20 mm
    G90                                          # Absolute positioning
    G0 X200 Y340                        # Move away prints, near edge
    G4 P5000                                # Wait for 5 secs
    CLEAN_NOZZLE
    G91                                          # Relative Positioning
    G0 Z50                                    # Lift nozzle by 100 mm
    M400                                      # wait for buffer to clear
    G92 E0                                    # zero the extruder 
    G1 E-2.0 F3600                      # retract filament  
    TURN_OFF_HEATERS    
    CLEAN_NOZZLE
    G0 X230 Y347 Z55 F3600
    M107                                         # turn off fan

 

[claudermilk]

My print_start is much more complex and I haven't had any issue with Orcaslicer. However, I have the M104 S0 and M140 S0 commands in the slicer custom start gcode immediately before calling print_start.

[Penatr8tor]

@Wanderer22,

Just like SuperSlicer, you'll need to call Print_Start and Print_End from the Machine G-Code section of OrcaSlicer. It's possible that it's already there and just commented out. I would recommend at a minimum that you have the following: 

PRINT_START

EXTRUDER=[nozzle_temperature_initial_layer]

BED=[bed_temperature_initial_layer_single]

For the Start G-Code section and just 

PRINT_END

For the End G-Code section.

------------------------------------------------------------

I notice that you have you bed and nozzle temps hard coded into your print_start macro. In a perfect world where your nozzle and beds temps never change it's OK to have it that way but you're much better off adding the EXTRUDER and BED temp variables that I have above. For example...

[gcode_macro PRINT_START]
#   Use PRINT_START for the slicer starting script - please customise for your slicer of choice
gcode:
    M104 S0                         # added for Orcaslicer,  Stops PS/SS from sending temp waits separately
    M140 S0                         # added for Orcaslicer
    G32                                 # home all axes and QGL
    M106 S50                       # Fan on approx. 20% to protect cooling ducts                                                                                  M190 S{ params.BED }   # Heat bed to temperature in OrcaSlicer and wait for bed to heat up
    M140 S100                     # set bed temp
    G4 P350000                   # wait ~6 minutes before heating up extruder                                                                             M104 S{ params.EXTRUDER }     # Heat extruder to temp in OrcaSlicer
    M109 S{ params.EXTRUDER }   # Heat extruder to temp in OrcaSlicer and wait for extruder to heat up
    M104 S230                     # set first layer extruder temp - ABS
    M109 S230                     # wait for extruder temp - ABS
    CLEAN_NOZZLE             # Purge and wipe
    G28
    BED_MESH_PROFILE LOAD=default
    G0 X175 Y175 Z30 F3600
    G1 X0 Y20 Z0.3 F4000                 # move to start position
    G1 X0 Y200.0 Z0.3 F1500.0 E15  # draw the first line
    G1 Z3.0 F3000                              # move up z axis

With these two parameters you can just set your bed and nozzle temps in your slicer and go.

[Wanderer22]

Thank you for your reply. It prints now, somehow I have print_start and print_end in the Filament start G-code under advanced tab too.

But I still have bed and extruder temperatures hard coded because I don't understand passing the variables.

I used your method but get Error on 'M190 S' : unable to parse. I wish I can get your method working.

 

[Wanderer22]

I have everything working now, had a small incorrect syntax for variables.

Thank you for your help/advice.

Edited July 24, 2023 by Wanderer22

[Penatr8tor]

@Wanderer22 Cool! Yeah, always have to check syntax. Glad you got it working! 

 

[Rippa]

Is there a full list of the usable parameters for using in the filename output anywhere? I am looking to export the gcode file with the name of the plate name rather than the file name and can't seem to find the parameter for this??

[mvdveer]

I think if you save the plate as a project, the code will export with the project name. At least this is the behaviour in super slicer. Will look at it when I get a change later

 

[claudermilk]

When I was recently printing my V0.2 parts, it was all projects of plates and both export and upload in SuperSlicer grabbed the project name as the default for the base "part" name. My output name worked the same as just dropping a single part on the plate.