v2.4 Voron 2.4 first time

[PFarm]

@c5Tim Good choice going with TAP you'll have no regrets and set up in the printer. config is simple compared to Klicky.

[c5Tim]

I do have a question though. The backside (non moving part) of the Z belts are touching the lower extrusions and the other two belts on the flying gantry are so close on either side that they seem like they will rub on the gantry rails as well. is this normal?

[Buurman]

no there is just enough space, they should not be rubbing anything, specially when tensioned. But yes its close.

If there is not enough space in the X gantry, you can make tha X gantry a little less wide, but you also have to adjust this on the back (non moving) axis.

[c5Tim]

Thanks I see that now I have it tensioned they are not rubbing.  However when I move the gantry forward or back along the Y axis the carriage will move left or right on the x axis.  The de racking video said it shouldn't move much like that and if it does then its a belt routing or bearing issue.  I have removed and re-routed the belts and ensured they are the same length and verified all the bearing move freely with just the belts.  The tension seems to be coming from the stepper motors themselves once everything is attached.  Am I missing something or is this not normally a bid deal.

[Buurman]

take the plugs out of the motors, then try again.

When plugged in, the motors generate power and this results in a big resistance in the spools. and you should always do this, it can damage your print board.

Normally its not a big deal, it feels weird when moving with the motors attached, lots of chunky resistance.. 

Just make sure the belts are moving freely, and the gantry is able to go all the way back, (check both sides) and all the way to the front.

 

[c5Tim]

Thanks for the suggestion.  The motors aren't connected to anything.  They are stepperonline motors and don't appear to have a connector at the motor base just the meter of wire harness or so coming out and ending at a connector on the end meant to go into the control board.  My gantry also is very smooth without the belts but with them it has considerable resistance to move.  I keep looking at belt paths but don't see anything obvious.  I also have zero racking issues with or without the belts. 

[c5Tim]

Also all four corners of my z drive belts appear to be against the frame rail. I verified all the z drives are flush is this normal?

[c5Tim]

Ok so to help others and voice my own failures haha I finally figured out what was causing the tension in the B belt and causing the tool head to move along the x axis while moving the Y.  I somehow missed installing the shim under the outside corner lower guide bearing on the B drive assembly.  As soon as I put it in and re-tensioned the belts everything moves as it should.  Thank you all for the suggestions and help.

[Buurman]

3 hours ago, c5Tim said:

Also all four corners of my z drive belts appear to be against the frame rail. I verified all the z drives are flush is this normal?

Should not touch, make sure the path is alright and you didn’t go around plastic underneath since it’s easy to do.

if not, it should not hurt if it’s not too much pressure against the frame.

[Buurman]

On 5/14/2023 at 3:17 PM, Buurman said:

no there is just enough space, they should not be rubbing anything, specially when tensioned. But yes its close.

If there is not enough space in the X gantry, you can make tha X gantry a little less wide, but you also have to adjust this on the back (non moving) axis.

I started a new build today and I thiought I check up on this, but my belts are also touching the frame lightly, so, its a default feature

sorry for saying otherwise, I never noticed...

Its the smooth side of the belt and its indestructible (not for @mvdveer, but for most it is   

[c5Tim]

Thanks.  I appreciate you looking into that on your build.  I have been doing little things here and there but am at the mercy of the USPS for the rest of my parts now.  Hopefully tomorrow will be a productive day for me.

[c5Tim]

Nearly done with the bulk of the wiring. I probably need to go ahead and start flashing things so I can finish it all up. 

[c5Tim]

I forgot to get pics of the sb2040 as I built up the SB. Overall it went well. I did buy a pre wired micro pin set but it turns out the 2040 comes with them now. 

[c5Tim]

So today I turned power on and am attempting to deal with software and configuration.  As I sort through all this I noticed fairly quickly thankfully that my bed started heating up on power up.  I disconnected the 24v power to the SSR from the MCU but this did nothing to cut the power to the bed so I ultimately disconnected the mains from the bed.  Is this just a software issue or could it be something else.  Thanks all.

 

Tim

[c5Tim]

Good morning all.  Yesterday was a marathon of software fighting.  By the end of it I was able to get pi loaded and working but couldn't get past getting the ebb2040 canbus up and running.  I think the U2C and toolhead aren't communicating but I am not sure.  Hopefully I get through it today and can move on to actual configuring of the printer.

[mvdveer]

8 minutes ago, c5Tim said:

Good morning all.  Yesterday was a marathon of software fighting.  By the end of it I was able to get pi loaded and working but couldn't get past getting the ebb2040 canbus up and running.  I think the U2C and toolhead aren't communicating but I am not sure.  Hopefully I get through it today and can move on to actual configuring of the printer.

I posted a reply earlier to @PFarm 's thread, also struggling with the canbus and U2C. Included are some links that may help.

 

[c5Tim]

Thank you for that I will dig into those and see what I can find.  My big problem now is that everything seemed to compile and load but when I get to "python3 flash_can.py -i  can0 -q" I get a query complete but no id for anything.

[c5Tim]

I made some progress today.  I ditched the U2C in favor of RS485 can hat and that seems to be working better.  I have all the basic stuff installed now and am just trying to get through printer config but now it keeps telling me I have invalid chain count in pretty much every section I just updated.  I have tried searching and cant figure out what that is referring to.  The only section with a chain count is the neopixel section but this is coming up for all of my fans my probe etc..  Off to bed for me thank you all again for the help and support to date.

[c5Tim]

I woke up with a clearer head this morning and managed to fix my config issues however now for whatever reason my mcu has lost all communication with the pi.  Its weird I can see it if I go lsusb but I get no response again now if I enter ls /dev/serial/by-id.

update: I finally figured out what needed changed in the printer config to get the MCU to communicate and the printer seems to be alive!  Not sure what I need to do next as I have never made it this far yet haha.

Edited May 22, 2023 by c5Tim

[c5Tim]

Baby steps. Now things are looking better but still along ways to go. I’m working on the sensor less homing which started out fine but now it acts like the sensitivity adjustment doesn’t do anything no matter what I change it to. 

[c5Tim]

So the debugging has been going well so far I have a lot of it working and figured out.  I do need some help though.  Most of the time when I try to run a QGL I end up getting a "Communication timeout during homing probe".  I have tried looking for answers elsewhere but keep coming up short.  I have a BTT EBB2040 canbus with an RS 485 canhat.  The baud rate is set to 1000000 as directed on everything.  Im not sure what to do next to get this to work.  Thanks for all the help.

 

[c5Tim]

I think I have it sorted out maybe. It’s printing now so it’s technically alive. 

[c5Tim]

Its been a trying few days.  I got a lot of tuning done and thought things were starting to go smoothly but then when I tried printing longer i started running into an extruder undervolt which apparantly is a known problem with the sb2240 I have.  I have tried all the suggested config changes I have even tried temp installing heavier gauged power wire just to see.  I am at my wits end with this canbus.  I have ordered a sb2209 that doesn't seem to suffer from this same undervolt issue and physically should be an easy swap.  Fingers crossed this fixes it.  It sucks having to buy replacements for what should have been good parts to begin with.  First the U2C now the sb2240.  I will keep updating this build thread if nothing else just so I can look back on it or maybe some part of this helps someone else at some point.

[mvdveer]

8 hours ago, c5Tim said:

a known problem with the sb2240

Was not aware of this - thanks for the heads up

[c5Tim]

There is a configuration posted on https://github.com/Esoterical/voron_canbus/blob/main/toolhead_flashing/common_hardware/BigTreeTech SB2209 and SB2240/SB2240 Stepper Configuration and Undervoltage.md that has worked for some people who have the problem but it doesnt work for everyone.