v2.4 Voron 2.4 first time

[c5Tim]

Hello all,

As suggested to me in my intro thread I guess I will start this one as a place to document my Voron 2.4 build.  I have had a Voxelab Aquila for the last couple years and have modded and worked that poor thing into the ground and have decided that I enjoy this hobby enough to make a big upgrade.

Here is what I am planning and where I am as of today:

Voron 2.4 350x350 direct drive CW2, E3D Revo all sourced parts with some smaller kits thrown in where it makes sense.

I have a LDO frame kit in space grey on the way from KB-3D, along with a Tensor hardware kit. ACM deck, back and top panels coming from print solid.  I ordered my 440C sus linear rails from Robotdig and Din 3 rail from Digikey.  

I attempted to start printing the ABS parts on my printer but its been problematic at best so I went ahead and ordered the functional parts from 3D pros Etsy shop in black and grey.

I think that about covers it for now and figure this should get me started.  I will update with pics after I get the first round of parts in and get started.

Tim

[PFarm]

There seems to be a re-occurring theme we all had other heavily modded printers. Since we can't leave anything stock (even our Vorons) make us good candidates for Voron builds.

Edited May 2, 2023 by PFarm

[c5Tim]

Ok first rant.  Since I am home for the week and I'm waiting on parts to arrive I thought I would go ahead and print what mod parts I can.  I printed the parts for the BTT EBB 2209 canbus mod and I have parts ready to print for the chamber lights but then I attempted to go find parts for the klicky probe and why in the world does it need to be so confusing.  Every list I have found has so many choices without any clear folders to say for a 2.4 print these files.  Instead there appears to be version after version of the same part or if there is a guide it refers to generic file names or parts that don't actually match what's loaded in the folders.  Anyhow rant over I have lots of time to figure it out or just give up and buy the parts...

[mvdveer]

There are 4 options , each in their own folder:

KlickyProbe - The original probe, where magnets may need to be glued to stay in place

KlickyNG - No glue needed for magnets

Unklicky - Uses magnets instead of an endstop

UnklickyNG - No glue improvement of Unklicky

For any of those you need two parts essentially - the dock and the probe. There are 4 probe versions and the one for the 2.4 is the Klickyprobe v2 (current). The other two designated long are for smaller printers and the Xtra long for printers with UHF hotends.

If you are using the Afterburner/Stealthburner, then you need to go to the printer folder, choose Voron, then the folder v1.8_v2.4_Legacy_Trident and choose the Klicky_Probe_AB-mount.

Hope this has not added to your confusion.

[c5Tim]

Thank you for the help.  So as of now I will have a SB and was going to go with klicky NG so I have 4 files I need to print? maybe? Klicky NG probe body, Klicky NG ABSB mount 3mm front, Klicky NG ABSB mount base, and dock mount fixed v2?  It looks like I dont have the part that attaches to the mount base that the probe sits on or it just looks different than what I expected.

[mvdveer]

You will also need the Klicky NG_Probe_insert (either 3mm or 2.75mm depending on your magnet height) See here under required parts.

[mvdveer]

[c5Tim]

Thank you so much.  I definitely missed the parts breakdown as I didnt go to the assembly page I was just trying to sort through the print files.  It makes much more sense now.

[leo etchaas]

for me klicky worked very good ! I think I used the glue in version and with smartphone screen glue it worked

[claudermilk]

Note that you will need to pick one of the dock mount options to attach the dock to. I used the fixed mount on my Trident which worked just fine (needed a bit of spacing (SPACERRRSSSS!!!) with washers to get it positioned just right.

I ran through OG Klicky, KlickyNG and UnKlicky. Overall it works really well. I did run into a couple of issues with the magnets over time. Eventually the CA glue "wore out" on the OG probe and pulled loose. I replaced that with KlickyNG which worked until a magnet pulled out of the retainer (broke the part)--I think that's been revised to be more durable now. I didn't use UnKlicky long enough to wear that probe out. So, print up spares and keep an eye on the probe part.

I ran my Klicky for the better part of a year and a lot of print jobs and it worked great. I got the printer to click-print-and-walk-away with it.

[c5Tim]

Today was like a mini Christmas. The first round of parts came in and the frame is together. Going through the parts kit I got I’m not sure that the M5 shims are actually spacers they look more like regular stamped washers to me. But otherwise progress has been made. 

[c5Tim]

Together and I believe straight. 

[PFarm]

In the kit I got, the M5 shims looked like regular washers but they did work out when putting the bearing stack together. Nice work putting the frame together.

Edited May 5, 2023 by PFarm

[mvdveer]

Ohhh.. the fun has started - Looking good. The frame grey or just the lighting ?

[c5Tim]

Its space grey.  I wasn't sure how the color would look but I took the chance and I really like it.

[mvdveer]

Just now, c5Tim said:

Its space grey.  I

I love it - cannot wait to see more

[PFarm]

6 minutes ago, c5Tim said:

Its space grey.  I wasn't sure how the color would look but I took the chance and I really like it.

What is your accent colour almost any colour will look good with this!

[c5Tim]

I am going with grey for the accent color. I may throw some other color in for a few small parts here and there. Not sure which yet like you said almost any color will work. 
 

[claudermilk]

Looks good. When I am able to do a V0.2, I want a space grey frame.

You have a great surface to build you frame on--mine looks very close to the same. The square should get you close; then measure the diagonals to double check yourself. Get to within about 1mm and you're in really good shape. I think I got mine to about 0.5mm or less overall.

[Buurman]

I have used most Klicky's too and yeah, it can be confusing, but ones you put it together you get it...

I currently am fan of this one: 

https://nl.aliexpress.com/item/1005005249674347.html?spm=a2g0o.order_list.order_list_main.21.5e2779d2VpptHN&gatewayAdapt=glo2nld

Simple strong and durable, but I do have a switch now that wasnt accurate anymore, but luckily you get 2.. and no need to glue or push in magnets with this one.

But good experience with all Klicky probes, just ones you put it together, when inserting the magnets on the second part, push the magents in, using the other part.

This would make sure the magnets are in the right position, but also, that they are "leveled" to eachother.

It doesnt have to be 100% horizontal, just as long there is no play between the magnets when stuck to eachother.

[c5Tim]

Small update.  Parts have been showing up but unfortunately not in an order that will allow me to move on to the next steps (ACM panels have arrived but no din rail, motion parts are all mostly here but no printed parts yet etc).  On a positive note I see that my linear rails have made it stateside now at least.  I have to leave town today for work but if all goes well I should have a healthy supply of parts when I get home at the end of the week to keep me busy for a while. Thanks again all for the help and support so far and I am sure I will have so many more questions as this goes.

[c5Tim]

Well I got home late last night to an nice pile of boxes from Amazon, FedEx, UPS and china post. More progress was made today I got all the Z drives installed along with the linear bearings. I was one 5x60 mm d shaft short though. Thankfully I had a sacrificial drill bit shank that was the perfect diameter. Hopefully more to come tomorrow. 

[c5Tim]

More progress today. The gantry is in and the belts are on. I wasn’t sure I’d figure out the maze of belts but it wasn’t that bad. Also I made a change in plans and now have tap installed or at least partially. 
 

 

[mvdveer]

I see you went with the traditional front idlers. I was led to understand they were more difficult to thread with the belt than the Ramalama idlers. Good progress. Just a tip - at this point when you tighten your belts, make sure the gantry stays racked. Move the gantry to the front, so that it touches the idlers then alternatively tighten the left and right belts to the right tension, without distorting the gantry.

[c5Tim]

Thank you for the advice I will do that in the morning.  I'm starting to go cross-eyed from looking at this thing today.