Second Build... Voron Switchwire

[Razor1666]

22 minutes ago, Penatr8tor said:

Hold the presses...

Looking good, he says as he crumples his profile sheet and tosses it in the bin! Lol

[Penatr8tor]

1 hour ago, Razor1666 said:

Looking good, he says as he crumples his profile sheet and tosses it in the bin! Lol

Well... I just had a Y endstop error. When I started building the chassis, I soldered wires onto the Y endstop switch per the instructions only to find out later on that the wire length they spec'd is too short. As a result I crimped on a molex connector and sealed the connection in a piece of shrink tube. Welp... the connector just became disconnected enough to open the circuit. So tonight I'll double check my SKR Mini E3 V2.0 stepper jumpers are set to UART mode and I'll try implementing sensorless homing for the Y axis.

@Razor1666 Did you get your control panel working? If you did can you share your Mini12864 code from your printer.cfg  with me? I still have to get that working as well as the SB LEDs.

[Razor1666]

1 hour ago, Penatr8tor said:

Did you get your control panel working?

Still waiting on parts from Etsy. Hopefully have them by the end of the month.

I tried briefly to get the LED's working without success, so decided to work on that later. I have them disconnected from the board for now.

To my astonishment they do come on and stay on with power and ground from the hartk board. The signal must be just floating... lol 

[Penatr8tor]

@Razor1666 Welp...

I fixed the Y endstop issue I was having. I pulled the Y endstop connector from my SKR Mini E3 V2 and jumpered the Y motor for sensorless homing. Then I uncommented the lines under the Y Motor section for sensorless homing, saved and restarted and Errrrrt!!! Error. Turns out I needed to have a line under the TMC2209 section that reads... Diag_Pin: PC1. What the jumper does is connect the motor to the Y endstop pin and what used to be the old endstop pin is now the diag_pin. I had to dig around reddit for the answer to that one but once I added that one line it worked like a charm.

Oh and guess what... I got my control panel working. I didn't need to change any of the code in my printer.cfg other than to change the color of the knob ring and display. So I have confirmed that the etsy adapter is working.

 

[Razor1666]

51 minutes ago, Penatr8tor said:

So I have confirmed that the etsy adapter is working.

 

Excellent news!  Good stuff

[Penatr8tor]

13 minutes ago, Razor1666 said:

Excellent news!  Good stuff

Yup, I currently have all three printers printing. It makes me feel good.

 

[smirk]

5 hours ago, Penatr8tor said:

I guess my expectations are much higher

I blame the ratrig for that

[Penatr8tor]

23 minutes ago, smirk said:

I blame the ratrig for that

That little RatRig has turned out to be a beast. But I must say... Adding TAP to my 2.4 made it an even a bigger beast than the RatRig. And the Switchwire will get there too. As I say to my co-worker friends... it's all in the setup baby. Nothing just works, you have to make it work, especially in the world of 3D printing. 

[atrushing]

On 2/17/2023 at 9:04 PM, Penatr8tor said:

Got the printer to home all axis automatically!!! Woot! Woot!

I know... it sounds dumb, like so what? Who cares LOL.

Truth be told... I had quite a good amount of futzing around to get all the klicky probe files loaded and configured. Below are a couple videos of the Switchwire Homing with the klicky probe servo arm deploying, Z probing and then detaching from the printhead.

I have a quick question about the Z travel on the Switchwire. I'm working on a Mini Stealth mount x-frame but with some extruders, the nozzle/Z-offset has to be raised by 3mm.

When the nozzle is touching the bed, do you think there is still 5mm or so of Z-travel? I tried watching the videos a couple times but it's hard to guesstimate the pixels/mm ratio..

[Penatr8tor]

@atrushing When the nozzle it touching the bed there is zero negative Z travel because well... it's touching the bed. LOL

Do you mean the distance between the bed and the bottom of the printhead mount? Or are you asking for the distance between the nozzle and bed when the klicky is attached.

Sorry, not understanding your question.

[atrushing]

3 minutes ago, Penatr8tor said:

Do you mean the distance between the bed and the bottom of the printhead mount? Or are you asking for the distance between the nozzle and bed when the klicky is attached.

Sorry, not understanding your question.

Sorry, I mean on the Z linear rails, is there room for the gantry to travel further down as if it could punch a hole through the bed.

[Penatr8tor]

OK, Sorry for the delay... Had to crank up the printer, etc.

Here's what we've got... I couldn't easily get in there to measure but I was able to barely fit a small file in between and when I measure the file it was 5.5mm so 5mm to be safe. I measured from the bottom of the slide to the printed slide stop below it.

[atrushing]

40 minutes ago, Penatr8tor said:

so 5mm to be safe. I measured from the bottom of the slide to the printed slide stop below it.

Thanks, that's perfect! This means that I can use the same x-frame set for any of the Mini Stealth versions.

[Razor1666]

On 2/21/2023 at 2:22 PM, Penatr8tor said:

Did you get your control panel working?

Part has arrived from Etsy!  I know what I'll be doing this weekend...besides shoveling snow!

@Penatr8torI'll be plugging it in and uncommenting a bunch of stuff for the mini and neopixel in my printer.cfg. Anything else I need to pay attention too?? How are you finding the sensorless homing? 

 

 

[Razor1666]

On 2/21/2023 at 4:16 PM, Penatr8tor said:

Oh and guess what... I got my control panel working. I didn't need to change any of the code in my printer.cfg other than to change the color of the knob ring and display. So I have confirmed that the etsy adapter is working.

@Penatr8torIf you have a chance can you send me a copy of your printer.cfg for your SW. I would like to compare it to what I have, especially the display section as mine is giving me a mcu error  ... cheers

 

[Penatr8tor]

50 minutes ago, Razor1666 said:

@Penatr8torIf you have a chance can you send me a copy of your printer.cfg for your SW. I would like to compare it to what I have, especially the display section as mine is giving me a mcu error  ... cheers

Here ya go... Warning... it might be a little cluttered but it works well.

printer.cfg

[Penatr8tor]

Got my PCB Klicky kit in the mail this weekend. I'll put this together tonight and see if my probing accuracy improves. I really like this design, as it utilizes a PCB to mount the magnets onto versus printed parts.

  

[Razor1666]

1 hour ago, Penatr8tor said:

Here ya go

Thanks my friend

[Penatr8tor]

Sanded the surfaces that mate with the PCB to eliminate a potential of the probe rocking while doing it's job.

Mounting was easy enough. I made sure that one of the magnets was opposite polarity from the two on the opposite side to prevent and mis-match when attaching the probe to the toolhead.

Very solid connection. I think this might be a good upgrade.

[5twenty]

Great timing (well for me to find this thread!) I just started my build yesterday. I got the Formbot kit in a couple weeks ago, but I have too many projects and have been slowly printing parts (still am...)

Boy, this is going to look awesome with nothing but green wiring! I am sticking to their BOM, but it would be nice to have those harnesses.

Barely getting there...and a bonus of one of my 2.4s printing parts for my Trident that is on deck...

 

 

Edited October 18, 2023 by 5twenty

[5twenty]

Sorry to keep haranguing you, but I've come to some parts that are stumping me: MOSFETS (where do these two items go? I do not see them in the manual, but they are clearly called for in the BOM and I have them!)

and, where did you stick that wire for the Y endstop switch? I saw the green wires on next to the bed rail, but didn't see where they eventually ran to. (figured this out thanks to a Nero video)

The manual says to solder 100mm on there, that seems way too short.

Pic of the mosfets I'm referring to: 

Edited October 18, 2023 by 5twenty