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So it starts - Voron 0.1 build


smirk

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  • 2 months later...

Hoorah! I did something (after almost 2 months, hopefully no one was holding their breath!) and I didn't *%@*&$ it up; snap anything; burn anything or injure myself!

I extended the wires on my ADXL345 accelerometer thingy:

v0-adxl34-cabling.thumb.jpeg.a21cc71b43dd7b9ebcd138c11ee125b0.jpeg

Although on closer inspection the cabling harness that came with the unit (already attached) has either transposed the +5V & GND wires, or the silk-screen is incorrecly labelled. Hmmmmm.....50/50. Do I feel lucky?! Think I've got spare somewhere just in case I guess wrong.

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1 hour ago, smirk said:

one was holding their breath!

I was. good to see you are doing something for yourself. You have been very busy helping others. Time to have some @smirk-Time! 

 

1 hour ago, smirk said:

Hmmmmm.....50/50. Do I feel lucky?

Not a betting man, but don't like the odds. What to do?

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8 hours ago, mvdveer said:

What to do?

Looking at the github and online pictures of very similar devices from other manufacturers (presumably they're all knock-offs) the silk screening is consistent:

mellow-fly-adxl-schematic.png.08f1e402744c16bf3bb3ec66a212562d.png

Rather amusingly I did find the ad for the original piece and even in  that in the photos (of the cables and device) there is a mismatch (colour-coding wise) between the GND and 5V!

I think I'll opt for swapping the cables around, clearly if I'm wrong I will delete or edit this post 🥸

Damn, second guessing myself, just looking at the heavier trace in that picture (nominally for the 5V). I'm sure it would normally be ground that you'd have going to "flooded" areas. Might have to get the circuit diagram.

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15 minutes ago, smirk said:

I'm sure it would normally be ground that you'd have going to "flooded" areas.

Clearly a case of "what the hell do I know"?! If i'd looked at the proper schematic in the first place I might've not started to second guess myself. The labelled is fine, the cabling is swapped:

mellow-fly-connector-schematic.jpeg.5a7916a30fae4f3a5360bbcb8ac8cfeb.jpeg

Pin #1 is definitely 5V and therefore should be the red one!

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14 minutes ago, smirk said:

it would normally be ground that you'd have going to "flooded" areas.

I agree with this. You can also see that the two side lugs of the connector are connected to the ground plane as well and there is no reason to have those at 5V.

I would guess that the wires are crossed.

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Ho, ho! Noticed a potential "issue" with my  accelerator cable. The Mellow adxl345 is "5v safe" (there's an onboard voltage regulator to step 5V down to the 3.3v the adxl345 runs at "naturally"). Not an issue as the PI has a couple of 5V pins (gpio 2 & 4)......."unfortunately" since I'm using a PICO and the little power/async cable to connect to the (BTT) PICO to the (PI) Zero with that cable the 5V pins are not free (being used to power the PI).

I'm hoping the accelerometer will work at 3.3V (as wel as 5V) so I can use one of the other pins on the PI or I'm going to have to get creative with the cabling.

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Progress with (relatively) minimal grumpiness!

After the wire dropped off the part cooling fan (about two months back) I did manage to get it soldered back on and the fan refitted back into the cowl. I did test the fans at the time to make sure they worked. Full Disclosure - there was plenty of grumpiness and sweaaring at the time of the re-soldering, and I have not retested the fans since starting this bout of new work. I can hear you saying "That'll come back to bite you in the ass". I know it will. I should have retested before assembly. Hindsight is an amazing thing, in the two months which have passed (during which time my daughter kindly wrote "Wash me!" in the dust) I could have ordered and had delivered several new fans......I have not ordered new fans. No doubt this too will bite me in the posterior.

I did find that clearly I had not embedded one of the heat-inserts into the x-carriage far enough. I'm always a little too cautious when inserting heat-inserts just in case I am putting them in too far. I had obviously erred on the side of caution.

When mounting the the mini AfterBurner to the X-carriage I could not get any purchase on the left hand (35mm) bolt. I did waste spend a couple of hours and different positions trying to resolve the matter. I was not 100% sure that my fat fingers were not simply getting in the way and causing some sort of misalignment, so I was being extra careful. Despiite the care I still managed to pop out the plastic holding one of the 10mm self-tappers in the Motor Frame so was forced to improvise with Blu-tack to keep the assembly roughly stable.

The first time I ever assembled a mini AfterBurner I did manage to simply destroy a couple of the fans by grasping the assembly too tighly and popping the rotors out of the fan assemblies with my sausage fingers. At times it was a little like watching an irrate gorrilla trying to fix a clock mechanism. I had almost forgotten how fiddlely and small these printers are 🤪

Anyway, I eventually decided to just try a longer 40mm bolt which worked! Sadly I do not have 20-20 prescience only 20-20 hindsight so I could have literally saved myself two hours! Just call me Epimetheus

v0-mini-ab-40mm-bolt.thumb.jpeg.12004145b82c571777846cd26db490fe.jpeg

 

(Clearly I also have terrible eye-sight as well now, since the Cowl doesn't look half as bad as it's photo!)

 

 

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Anyhoo, with the mini-AB attached to the X-Carriage. It was time to try out the klicky probe setup. That was an interesting journey.

My biggest problem was being too stupid naive literal.

The klippy github and informaiton resources here on TeamFDM are brilliant. All the heavy lifting has been done for you (for the standard printer models) so in theory requires very little brain work. As they say, if you make something idiot-proof the universe just goes and builds a better idiot.

My issue was the "klicky-variables.cfg" file. This file comes from the repo pre-populated with a generic bunch of settings. Very helpfully, the information sources also provide a collection of Voron 0  appropriate variables. Yeehah thinks I, it could not be easier. So I take the Voron-0 suggested variables; wipeout all the variable definitions from "klicky-variables.cfg" file and replace the void with the (handful) of suggested Voron-0 ones. hahahahahhahah 😱

The trouble was Klipper did not fail with a nice message like "Hey doofus! You need to define some other variables" or words to that effect. It blew up in a colour shower of sparks and an "internal error", I've seen Klipper "break" but never quite so spectacularly badly.

The klipper log had entries like:

Error evaluating 'gcode_macro _SetProbeState:gcode': CommandError: Probe attach failed!
Traceback (most recent call last):
  File "/home/pi/klipper/klippy/extras/gcode_macro.py", line 61, in render
    return str(self.template.render(context))
  File "/home/pi/klippy-env/local/lib/python2.7/site-packages/jinja2/environment.py", line 1090, in render
    self.environment.handle_exception()
  File "/home/pi/klippy-env/local/lib/python2.7/site-packages/jinja2/environment.py", line 832, in handle_exception
    reraise(*rewrite_traceback_stack(source=source))
  File "<template>", line 16, in top-level template code
  File "/home/pi/klipper/klippy/extras/gcode_macro.py", line 89, in _action_raise_error
    raise self.printer.command_error(msg)
CommandError: Probe attach failed!
Error evaluating 'gcode_macro _SetProbeState:gcode': CommandError: Probe attach failed!

Some were worse than that. Fortunately, I did not waste as much time  as I had to swap a 35mm bolt for a 40mm bolt.

Reverting back to the stock/factory klippy config files (from the Github)  resulted in much more pleasant and understanable errors about "Range ouf of bound". Since I was effecitvely using a set-up for the much larger v2.4 this made sense and made me recognise my fundamental mistake.

 

The solution was to simply update  the appropriate variable definitions with those in the suggested collections which gives you a mostly working set up - there are still some variables and other items that need a bit of tweaking.

So without further ado - a roughly working klicky:

 

There's a bunch of stuff still to do. At the moment all the cabling is just loose and bundled up  to prevent it getting snarled up in the motion system. That'll mean a bunch of cabling routing; trimming to length and terminating. The fun stuff!

 

 

 

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The Mellow ADXL345 accelerometer works on 3.3v (as well as presmably 5V....unless that's a mislabelling 🤪) so I've been spared getting creative with cabling for the 5V line. Therefore, I can use any spare 5V connections for the hotend fan.

v0-mellow-accelerometer.thumb.jpeg.0b76a0fbfd0c9cad01a4bfc846c101a4.jpeg

Despite all the cables being loose I ran a resonance test and it works as expected, so more than just a pretty red light!

shaper_calibrate_x.png.5892b912c06d8bcf892ad485c5fcbc38.png

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On 11/14/2022 at 10:12 PM, smirk said:

The Mellow ADXL345 accelerometer works on 3.3v (as well as presmably 5V....unless that's a mislabelling 🤪) so I've been spared getting creative with cabling for the 5V line. Therefore, I can use any spare 5V connections for the hotend fan.

v0-mellow-accelerometer.thumb.jpeg.0b76a0fbfd0c9cad01a4bfc846c101a4.jpeg

Despite all the cables being loose I ran a resonance test and it works as expected, so more than just a pretty red light!

shaper_calibrate_x.png.5892b912c06d8bcf892ad485c5fcbc38.png

I have done these tests before and yes, they work great, does it have any value to keep it mounted, does it do "live" adjustments?

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2 hours ago, Buurman said:

does it have any value to keep it mounted

Less swearing?

For me it's really a convenience factor. It is there, precisely when I need it, I don't need to go rummaging about and then try and hook it up to the PI. My first ADXL is just one of those little daughter/motherboards that I've got a mount for. Whilst I've got it permanently connected to a cable and dupont connector block, it is still a source of trepidation when I try and line it up with the correct GPIO pins (I'm old there's bound to be a time I mis-see or mis-count).

Doubt that there is a live adjustment feature (be pretty cool) but I guess having the accelerometer so "close to hand" means you can run a resonance checks more often.

Oh, it's also got an LED on it - so that's just gotta be more cool?!?! (*)

(*) Clearly not if you're under the age of 50.

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14 hours ago, smirk said:

it's also got an LED on it

Hahahahaha, should have started with that you GOM 😂😂😂

I was just curious if there was something as live adjustments/measuring going on.

I have a separate adxl, on a pico, and usb on the from of the printer is the idea. Maybe make something with a magnet to put the adxl on the duct even faster…. But I did it this way so I can Easily use it on other printers too.

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4 hours ago, Buurman said:

But I did it this way so I can Easily use it on other printers too.

I'm just lazy and blessed with a surplus of accelerometers so more than happy to have one per printer (or per axis for bed slingers)

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20 hours ago, smirk said:

Whilst I've got it permanently connected to a cable and dupont connector block, it is still a source of trepidation when I try and line it up with the correct GPIO pins (I'm old there's bound to be a time I mis-see or mis-count).

...and that's why I have a little permanently-mounted patch cable with a plug in the skirt. A 2x3 Dupont connector set and there's no way for me to plug in wrong.

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17 hours ago, claudermilk said:

...and that's why I have a little permanently-mounted patch cable with a plug in the skirt. A 2x3 Dupont connector set and there's no way for me to plug in wrong.

So I have the same but than usb A connector, hard to put in wrong too 🤪

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Ironically, right after I mentioned it I had to make use of it. Needed to re-run input shaper after rebuilding my XY assembly (found a cracked joint 😲 ). The worst part of the whole process was the screws to attach the PCB to the SB tool head.

(no, I didn't think of photos until just now...)

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Spent time mucking about with cables. I did take a picture of the starting position which was absolute spaghetti but I seem to have lost it (perhaps it died from shame). The intermediate cabling looked like:

v0-cable-progress.thumb.jpeg.e43ac52575a367bae4c859e2cb6eff75.jpeg

After some cable tying, swearing and reprinting  various parts, et voila:

v0-cable-neater.thumb.jpeg.b23e563760bbba443a329e554d042371.jpeg

 

Just need to  sort that accelerometer cable and reinstate the power cable. I wasn't happy with the maiins cabling so "trimmed" it (except I forgot the old adage of measure twice, cut once) and just made myself even more unhappy by trimming it too much.  No doubt I'll still fiddle with the cabling a bit more it's not neat as it should be

 

 

 

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1 hour ago, smirk said:

No doubt I'll still fiddle with the cabling a bit more it's not neat as it should be

Nah, looking good. But even measuring twice, I still cut too short - maybe I have difficulty measuring stuff

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Well got the accelerometer cabling terminated again and sorted out the power cabling so we are getting near to the finish (guess technically if I only ever wanted to print PLA then it would suffice as is).

I  plan on adding @bravefruitcake magnetic panel conversion so first step was to order some of the 8x2mm magnets (all 20 of them). They arrived today in their minimalistic eco-friendly packaging:

amazon-magnet-box.thumb.jpeg.b24d5a7c39dd17056cd45e410a4bcf18.jpeg

Fortunately the dog was on-hand to routle through the packging to find the magnets (not quite a truffle-hound):

amazon-box-open.thumb.jpeg.2efdbb58449dd4c1d671a0ae02eab3a3.jpeg

 

Thank God they don't send Vorons in similiarly sized boxes.

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