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Anyone ordering M5 proximity sensors, make sure to test them before installing them in your mill. Connect the brown lead to DC + and the blue lead to DC-. The LED light should light up. I've had 2 sensors DOA.

Received my Dreanique balance ER20 nuts today. Got these additional nuts so I can have the end mills and collets I use often already inserted, so I don't have to constantly swap out the collets.

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4 minutes ago, Penatr8tor said:

Collecting tooling is going to be an ongoing process. I've been looking at using a rolling tool cart for my Milo which would give me storage for things like collets, parallels, drills and the like.

Excellent idea! ❤️

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  • 3 months later...

AliExpress has these T8x8 nuts that will be perfect for the handwheel.  I have attached a handwheel that I designed for my machine.  I needed the handwheel to stick out a little further on my Y axis because of the way covers I added on the front.  I used 2 of these nuts on the Y axis, one without a set screw.  The other nut has a bolt that runs thought a hole in the handwheel and tightens against the lead screw.

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HandwheelV2.jpg

Handwheel Body V2.stl

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  • 1 month later...

Some progress today on the Flip Flop brackets, 4 brackets milled, all that's left is drilling, counterboring, and tapping. Used a corner endmill for the first time, awesome tool?

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The brackets above were milled using masking tape and crazy glue. Think I found the minimum stock size that can be used with the setup with a 6mm endmill. 50mm x 130mm with a DOC of 3mm, tried a DOC of 5mm, but the stock came off the fixture.

Here is a tip when using this method:

  • Use shoulder bolts to square up the stock
  • This allows realignment should the stock come loose
  • Ensure that there are no burrs of the stock against the shoulder bolts 
  • The stock should have a machine surface against the two X shoulder bolts

 

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Parts look awesome Jack!

While I haven't done any double-sided tape fixturing myself, I did stay at a Holiday Inn Express last night. 🤣 (old TV commercial reference). Our CNC machinists at work would use that method pretty often and there was always the potential for adhesion failure and there parts occasionally would move around and lose registration. Of course, these were on full sized Fadal machining centers, and you were able to pound on the part with a dead blow hammer to get it to stick. I think it's safe to assume that hammering on a Milo is not recommended which makes it even harder to get good adhesion.

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4 minutes ago, mvdveer said:

You're having way too much fun!

You bet I love that I can actually complete a part!

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