Trident - 300 Yes I'm Hooked!

[PFarm]

Got the wiring done except for the Canbus wire, bed and chamber thermistor bed fans to terminate on the Octopus. Bed heater installed to the plate. Also flipped the front Z rail in its correct position and had them installed wrong.

 

Edited December 19, 2023 by PFarm

[PFarm]

For those of you who have done the inverted electronic bay, I'm assuming you need to trim the top plan to fit?

[Sojin]

I downloaded the .stls for Inverted Electronic mod here. It had 3 new z-motor mounts that were smaller to accommodate the stock top plate. Just swapped my motor mounts over the weekend.
Voron Mods - Trident Inverted Electronics by LoganFraser (vorondesign.com)

[PFarm]

@Sojin I agree I've printed those as well but look at the corners of the upper panel in the video when he inserts it, they are notches. In addition a notch for the wires going into the drag chain. That was what I was asking since there is no documentation mentioning that.

Edited December 20, 2023 by PFarm

[Sojin]

I need to dig out my panels to test the fit. I'll admit I was making some assumptions in the purpose of the smaller motor mounts. 

[mvdveer]

7 hours ago, PFarm said:

For those of you who have done the inverted electronic bay, I'm assuming you need to trim the top plan to fit?

On both the tridents where I installed this mod, the panels fitted without any trimming.

[PFarm]

Going to give this a try on the CW2, Mellow gear set which has a one-piece intergraded shaft and a different filament feeder cutout. Supposed to have better tolerances. Was impressed with the Mellow CNC SB mount and liked what I read about this gear set. Note: no MR85ZZ bearings or tension thumb screw, this kit is meant as a replacement and not a build kit. Set#3 in the Mellow store is the build kit.

Edited December 21, 2023 by PFarm

[PFarm]

1 hour ago, mvdveer said:

On both the tridents where I installed this mod, the panels fitted without any trimming.

Got it figured out another brain fart was looking at the rear panel boy I need to get some sleep LOL!

[Sojin]

I went and dug out my bottom panel and fitted it just to make sure it would fit. The LDO kit looks to have some notches already cut in the back to accommodate motor wires and such.

[PFarm]

Installed and wired chamber thermistor, SB installed and SB2209 wired. Wiring is completed in the electronic bay, waiting on some 5015 for the bed fans. Going to give this horizontal drag chain a go. Exhaust fan with HEPA filter installed, just need to meter the 24v. to find Vin & Grd for the fan since both wires are white. Wire and install BTF SK6812 case lights are next.

 

 

Edited December 23, 2023 by PFarm

[YaaJ]

Do bed fans make sense on a dropping bed ? I mean there's no need for heat under the bed, and moving air all around the printer could be counter productive for the volume where the part is sitting. Curious to see what happens.

Do you plan some measurements and comparisons with/without ?

(hesitating for bed fans on the 0.2 and the 2.4, as the two have a Nevermore that moves some air)

Forgot to ask : how did you stick the magnetic pad to the bed ? Watched a video where the author sticks the PEI plate to the magnetic mat, making it more rigid, and then stick the whole thing to the bed. Never seen this before.

Edited December 23, 2023 by YaaJ

[PFarm]

13 hours ago, YaaJ said:

Do bed fans make sense on a dropping bed ? I mean there's no need for heat under the bed, and moving air all around the printer could be counter productive for the volume where the part is sitting. Curious to see what happens.

Forgot to ask : how did you stick the magnetic pad to the bed ? Watched a video where the author sticks the PEI plate to the magnetic mat, making it more rigid, and then stick the whole thing to the bed. Never seen this before.

I have the bed fans installed on my V2, I removed my Nevermore (going to replace it with VEFACH) because of the bulging access door. Bed fans are controlled by a config. file, fans run at 25% at start up until bed temp. reaches 110C then they run at 35% this helps bring the chamber temp. to 50C quicker than without fans. Can be easily eliminated by commenting out the config. The exhaust fan runs at 40% once the 50C. chamber temp. is reached.

To apply the heater pad and magnetic pad I used Nero3d's suggestion of using sandpaper to scuff up the surface for better adhesion followed by an alcohol wipe-down. Piiled back a small section at a time while using a plastic scrapper to apply pressure onto the pad. VEFACH is going into the build. I'm sure I'll need to make adjustments on both bed fans and exhaust fan for this setup.

Edited December 24, 2023 by PFarm

[YaaJ]

Ok, the classic way.
Can't retrieve the video showing this alternate method. The video was about something else, like jinja code in macros or whatever ; can't remember. Asked myself how air bubbles didn't get caught... The guy litterally drops the mag mat + steel sheet, holding it against one edge, letting gravity do the job ! Maybe some aerodynamics...

Didn't notice you finally removed the Nevermore on your 2.4 ! (didn't read the very last posts) ; will probaly have a few  questions (on the 2.4 thread of course !)

[claudermilk]

I doubt bed fans make sense on a moving bed printer. I don't have them on my Trident or V0 and have no plans for them. I do have a Nevermore that is attached to the bed frame on my Trident and it works well there.

[PFarm]

@claudermilk Thanks for the info.

Edited December 24, 2023 by PFarm

[mvdveer]

As @claudermilk said - only have them on the 2.4's

[Dirk]

13 hours ago, claudermilk said:

I doubt bed fans make sense on a moving bed printer

This is an interesting discussion. 

I have first read about these bed fans from Ellis' bed fans mod and script. It was indeed for the 2.4. If I recall right, the story he tells is: the heat is created by the bed, and the blowers make sure the heated air is circulated into the chamber, leading to a quicker heatening up of the chamber.

I don't have a trident or a v0(yet), and I can not see exactly where PFarm has put his bed fans (I think under the bed?) but I would suggest that blowing the heated air from where it is created, should make sense!

warmer air, rises (hot-air-balloon), especially like with the trident when the bed is on the top of the box, and you want the whole chamber to heat up, you should have the air circulated.

I recall reading a very informative post here, where someone did test with exhaust and bed fans to see which situation was best to reach warm chamber temperature. Maybe such a test will prove the idea.

[PFarm]

19 hours ago, Dirk said:

I can not see exactly where PFarm has put his bed fans (I think under the bed?)

Season Greetings to all!

Correct, they will be under the bed, putting them in the same location as the 2.4 makes them kinda of useless. Going to give them a try can't hurt! Only two in my setup.

https://www.teamfdm.com/files/file/490-trident-bed-fans/

As always I do appreciate everyones comments and input.

Edited December 26, 2023 by PFarm

[claudermilk]

Yeah, that location could work. I will say I do see my chamber temp go up quicker with the Nevermore mounted under the bed. Mine is basically where the far two are in @PFarm's photo above and blows out the side using the 45 deg angled plenum exhaust.

[PFarm]

Well my luck with electronics continues, BTT Octopus will not go into DFU or take the firmware via SD card, and the BTT Pi will not connect to my network either on 5V or 24V the same SD card inserted into another Pi works just fine.  Will see what BTT says through Formbot. I've got another Octopus board coming if they replace it it will be my spare. I have another BTT Pi to replace the defective one. 

Edited December 27, 2023 by PFarm

[mvdveer]

7 minutes ago, PFarm said:

BTT Octopus will not go into DFU

Make sure NOTHING other than power and the Raspi is connected. Had the same problem with the board fully wired up. Removed all connections and on first try thereafter got the board in DFU mode

[PFarm]

21 hours ago, mvdveer said:

Make sure NOTHING other than power and the Raspi is connected. 

Thank you for this had all the wires disconnected only thing left was the stepper drivers removed them and as you said boards in DFU! Another lesson learnt. Got everything re-flashed, and put it back into the printer and no CanBus adapter shows up when lsusb command. Remove Pi and Octopus from the printer with everything disconnected can't get it into DFU again. I really think this board is defective.

Edited December 28, 2023 by PFarm

[YaaJ]

This is nowhere in the manuals. Just verified. Was lucky when I flashed, as I hadn't wired anything at this point ! Just wanted to test the TFT with KlipperScreen ASAP. Yesterday, spent 2 hours on the Pi SPI ADXL interface, because I had forgotten there is a "firmware" to compile and install on the Pi.

BTT manuals are the worst. LDO is terrible.

Information is spreded everywhere, and tutorials often overcomplicated (in particular on YT, where they take 10mn+ for a 1mn explanation).

If you install CAN, the best explanations are : https://github.com/EricZimmerman/VoronTools/blob/main/EBB_CAN.md

(except the include file with all the aliases at the end of the installation, better do the pin affectations by hand)

Edited December 28, 2023 by YaaJ

[atrushing]

1 hour ago, YaaJ said:

Information is spreded everywhere, and tutorials often overcomplicated (in particular on YT, where they take 10mn+ for a 1mn explanation).

The other 'fun' source of useful information is watching multiple 3 hour build streams to catch some random little tip that can be so hard to find with Google.. I guess that's why we're all here!

[mvdveer]

7 hours ago, PFarm said:

shows up when lsusb command

It won't show up with the slush command as it now has a canoe UUID. Make sure klipper is not running:

On the raspi pi:

sudo service klipper stop

then change into the canboot/katapult scripts directory and obtain the UUID through:

cd ~/CanBoot/scripts        OR cd~/katapult/scripts
python3 flash_can.py -i can0 -q