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Trident - 300 Yes I'm Hooked!


PFarm

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  • PFarm changed the title to Trident - 300 Yes I'm Hooked!
  • I downloaded the Trident zip from Github.
  • The gantry is the same as the 2.4 correct?
  • I did the pin mod on the gantry and the front idler mod on my 2.4 so this can also apply to the Trident?
  • What other mods must have should I look at?
Edited by PFarm
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@PFarm Gantry is fixed versus moveable (2.4) so it would probably be safe to assume that the motor mounts would be different. The X beam and toolhead would be the most likely components to be interchangeable. I think the center skirts are the same as a 2.4 as well as things like panel mounts and hinges and stuff like that.

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9 hours ago, PFarm said:

Ordered a Trident 300 from Formbot with Canbus. Looking forward to assembling it.

You will find it much easier than the 2.4. And it is a great printer. Using my two Tridents far more than the two 2.4's. The only issue I have with them is the small space at the top of the printer, especially if you are going canbus with umbilical. I did a "tophat" for both printers because of this.

IMG_5475.thumb.png.14cc1c4abcafc53422f51cb73fc7a17d.png

This is the 1st link (Grey Trident) and 2nd link (Red and Black Trident) to the tophat designs, if you are interested.

However, there is nothing preventing you from running canbus through the cable chains.

 

 

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27 minutes ago, mvdveer said:

However, there is nothing preventing you from running canbus through the cable chains.

That was my thought and can downsize the cable chain (7x7). Thanks for the links.

Edited by PFarm
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The front idlers are almost the same. There is a Trident variant of the pin mod, basically it eliminates the Z belt pass throughs. I haven't done the motor mount pin mod (yet), but I assume it's a similar situation. You will find a lot of  the V2.4 mods are either compatible or have a Trident version.

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On 11/25/2023 at 11:58 PM, PFarm said:

can downsize the cable chain (7x7)

Do you mean the Z, X or Y ? Or an horizontal "umbilical", like the Bambu or Creality K1 ? Spent the afternoon scratching my head with a 7x7 in my hands, wondering how to attach it horizontally... Came to the conclusion it is impossible on a Voron, even with pivots (and cable torsions), but two 7x7 for X and Y could be a solution. Maybe not the smartest one, but a solution... Found no example of a Voron with a "horizontal/diagonal" X-Y drag chain. Only drooping umbilicals (made one long ago on my bed slinger, it's uggly, and limits the Z travel)

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On 12/6/2023 at 1:50 PM, PFarm said:

 

IMG_1990.thumb.JPG.8f1d7e6c2e2e52a6c208ed0d1ea14ff8.JPG

Submitted this photo on FB and was informed that white ABS is weak for structural parts, anyone heard that? Did a bit of research and it may be that more pigment is used to keep the filament white but no confirmation that it's weaker.

Edited by PFarm
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1 hour ago, PFarm said:

anyone heard that?

I was told the same about silver but at the time I researched the issue could not find any concrete evidence that the strength changes is significant enough not to use.. CNC Kitchen did a nice write-up regarding PLA with some scientific articles to support what he said. Basically the color can affect the tensile and compressive strength of the part. The flexural strength (important for 3d Printed part) is not affected. See this article (Unfortunately white was not part of the study).

Unfortunately there are a lot of anecdotal opinions, especially on Facebook. I trust more in the science.

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5 hours ago, PFarm said:

white ABS is weak for structural parts, anyone heard that...

This is very interesting. Especially since white and black are the cheapest colors to purchase and they both go perfectly well with any other color...

No idea how ABS is exactly produced. To be honest I thought colored filament was made by simply adding some color... So I thought white would be more pure. But apparently I was wrong 🙂 Assumption is the mother...

And indeed, Stefan-guten-tag is the only science I have seen when it comes to printing. I have seen some very decent research and (youtube) publications he has done. we should ask him? is he a member on this forum? 🙂

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Interesting! If the parts do fail I'll just need to reprint in another colour. @mvdveerDid you print structural parts in silver?

One of the posts from the FB suggests: "Titanium Dioxide used for the white pigment is the reason it's weaker from what I've read on the Voron Discord." 

Edited by PFarm
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https://www.semanticscholar.org/paper/Investigation-of-the-Effect-of-Titanium-Dioxide-on-Asiaban-Taghinejad/3d7031da8f85ac12f6f6756f12de40bc4da2ab69

Indeed... an interesting read. I now also know what ABS stands for 😄Exactly like you said, they said on facebook they said on voron discord. Titanium dioxide is added. and it seems to weaken ABS.

In that research they used ABS with Titaniumdioxide from 0-3% to crystal clear whiten ABS. The impact force reduced +- 20 Kj/m2 to 16. And the stress test showed that there was only a reduction from 49 Mpa at 0% Titaniumdioxide to 46 Mpa at 3%TiO2. 

 

The question is of course, if it is going to influence our prints when we print it like we print it. I would think not significantly. An experiment like Stefan (CNC Kitchen) does them, will show how relevant this information is 🙂

 

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I was waiting for someone to tell you that. 😄 I've only read anecdotal claims but never seen any actual data backing that up. I've also seen  number of printer builds documented using white...but no follow ups of any failures.

My Trident is dark grey and light grey. Not a single light grey (Sparta Cloud Grey Sparkle) has failed just through use. I've broken a couple of pieces, but that was 100% due to fat fingers and carelessness. It's now at 2554 hours on it and I still have OG parts printed on the Prusa. Granted, all the main possibly stressed parts are dark grey.

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Yes, it is an old-school Audi AEB 1.8L with some mods to continue using the G-ladder in a 1961 G60 Corrado I'm restoring. The original engine had two MIA crankshaft bearings.

 

4319FA4D-39AD-4A4A-8BC2-351609847203.thumb.jpeg.909a163bb792ba648b987eb1413c6a8c.jpeg

Edited by PFarm
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More progress I'd printed the Beefy Idlers but decided to stick with the Ramalama idlers I got those installed on the V2.4 and they work fine. I didn't like the offset mounting of the beefy ones they just look odd IMO. @mvdveer you were bang on saying this is a much easier build than the 2.4 👍. Was there supposed to be two 45-degree extrusions for the rear Z support? There was none in the kit, I drilled the extrusion of the A/B motors in the middle so I could secure the rear Z extrusion to it.

Screenshot2023-12-12at6_20_00AM.png.4c5b7d02577c6bff43b3cbee8fdec69a.png

 

IMG_2009.thumb.JPG.f8d1ae22890e2d5bfc96f1929e8b509a.JPG

Edited by PFarm
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23 minutes ago, PFarm said:

More progress I'd printed the Beefy Idlers but decided to stick with the Ramalama idlers I got those installed on the V2.4 and they work fine. I didn't like the offset mounting of the beefy ones they just look odd IMO. @mvdveer you were bang on saying this is a much easier build than the 2.4 👍. Was there supposed to be two 45-degree extrusions for the rear Z support? There was none in the kit, I drilled the extrusion of the A/B motors in the middle so I could secure the rear Z extrusion to it.

Screenshot2023-12-12at6_20_00AM.png.4c5b7d02577c6bff43b3cbee8fdec69a.png

IMG_2009.thumb.JPG.f8d1ae22890e2d5bfc96f1929e8b509a.JPG

There are printed parts for the rear z extrusion. That extrusion mounts offset, so hopefully you didn't drill with it centered.

Offset Extrusion.png

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