Trident - 300 Yes I'm Hooked!

[Dirk]

On 12/11/2023 at 3:28 PM, claudermilk said:

I was waiting for someone to tell you that.  I....

If this refers to the white abs being less strong, then here is what I read... Unfortunately I did not have the whole article, but there are graphics that show comparisons. They did experiments where they tested ABS without and with added Ti02. You can add about max 1.5% TiO2 to get the brghtest white. With this percentage(2%), there is a drop in impact strength, but not really much IF ANY for stress strength. 

Impact testing they do movements like hammering the ABS and looking how many dents they can make. I do not know what you guys do with your Vorons with ABS, but mine only does the hammering movement when TAP'ing.

But when it is to stress (pull, bend and so on), the tables show a drop of 1-2% of reduction but also an increase of resistance to stress above 1.5%.

And when you really want to know how printed materials withstand forces, you should check out CNCKitchen video which shows a brutal difference between different types of prints with same material.

With all this in mind, I doubt that the white color @PFarm uses for his new build will fall apart, or will be less strong than one printed with gray.

When it comes to engines and cars, I don't know... It was always too expensive to touch the insides of these things... If I had had the chance to build one from scratch like the (relatively super-cheap) Voron, I am sure I would have considered modding one

 

[PFarm]

Thanks guess I missed that one, I drilled it with the rear extrusion out. 

[PFarm]

Z motors, Z rails, A/B rails and feet installed 

[claudermilk]

The rear extrusion is offset on purpose. @kingstar shows the illustrations showing how it connects. It threw me at first, too. The reason for the offset is to allow room for the belts to run. Once you get those installed the method to the madness will become clear.

[Sojin]

19 hours ago, PFarm said:

Z motors, Z rails, A/B rails and feet installed 

Do you have a link to the orange leadscrew covers on the motor plates shown in this picture? I could use those on my Trident 250 build I think. Loving the Creamsicle look you have going! 

[PFarm]

Thanks, I like the colour combo as well. Here is the link you requested.

 

[PFarm]

4 hours ago, claudermilk said:

The rear extrusion is offset on purpose. @kingstar shows the illustrations showing how it connects. It threw me at first, too. The reason for the offset is to allow room for the belts to run. Once you get those installed the method to the madness will become clear.

Thank you for the explanation I understand why it is offset now. The Ramalana idlers are as well when I look at the belt route. I'll give the Beefy ones a go.

Edited December 13, 2023 by PFarm

[PFarm]

Powered up the electronics today Formbot kit ships with BTT Pi and Octopus 1.1. Still need to get BTT SB2209 connected. Found out that the BTT Pi connects to my wifi when powered up via USB but doesn't when powered up with 24V LED lights up but no wifi. Email sent to Formbot regarding Pi issue.

Reprint of the Z carriages to the Flex mod.

Edited December 21, 2023 by PFarm

[mvdveer]

2 hours ago, PFarm said:

but no wifi.

Stupid question - is the wifi antenna attached?

[PFarm]

Yes, it is. What is weird is why it connects to wifi with USB and not with 24V.

Edited December 14, 2023 by PFarm

[claudermilk]

The front idlers cannot be symmetrical if that's what you are looking for. The left side has the bottom belt going through it and the right side has the top. The Ramalama parts mount such that the main body is symmetrical, just the belt path is offset according to which belt is going through it. I'll bet the beefy idlers are similar.

[PFarm]

Yes because of the belt path, it's more noticeable with the beefy idle than the Ramalama.

Ramalama ones are offset are internal and not as noticeable.

 

 

 

 

[YaaJ]

Is there issues with the Ramalama idlers ? Could this symmetry that drives to an assymetry be a problem ?

Not speaking of the two screws for tension tuning. It is a false problem.

(after nights going to bed at 4:004:30AM, I adopted them ; but being lost in mods, still didn't test anything ; I'm amazed watching how quickly you can build things...)

[PFarm]

Nothing wrong with the Ramalama idler, the only advantage of the beefy idler is being able to replace the idler bearing without pulling back the belt. I slowed down the build cause it was going too quickly. Found out what the issue was with the BTT Pi not connecting to my wifi when powered by 24V, bonehead move of not removing the USB jumper DAHHHH. Planning on continuing the build tonight after supper.

 

[YaaJ]

Thanks.
Chose the Ramalama2 mostly  because of the nice mag covers, and of course had to reprint because the repo is a mess, and discovered the nipplefix variant too late...
Didn't mount the stock ones after I see some pictures of cracks.

A bit worried, as the pulley carriers were printed with white ABS... After reading the topic, I'll maybe reprint them using the black ASA that should be there for the week end.
Still didn't belt the gantry, so any modofication is easy...

[claudermilk]

No problems that I can detect with the Ramalama. Once I figured out how careful you have to be evenly tightening the bolts (same would be true of beefy) they work and look great. I'm still on my original idler bearings (closing on 2600 hours now); aside from a bit of cleaning when I pulled them from the spec carriers they were like new.

[PFarm]

Well, they were bang on about not using white for structural parts putting a #3 x 8 screw in the feet support caused it to crack. Since I'm not that far into the build I'll be re-printing the structural parts.  Lesson learned I should have lessened to the advice! Learning from your mistakes is what life is all about 

[YaaJ]

This is not only about structural resistance and bad layer adhesion. It is also about these screws. I hate them. Didn't have the problem with the 2.4, but had it on the Zero (the rear right foot with integrated runout microswitch).

Solutions I tested good :

- heating up the screws before screwing them all the way down, with a soldering iron, as if it was a heatset insert ; it helps A LOT ; did it for the 0.2 that has very similar feet and not enough meat for the second workaround

- when possible, remixing the part for using M2 heatset inserts and replacing the self threading screws with normal screws. These inserts that can be found in assortment boxes. I do it for the microswitches in particular.

Also, I had problems with holes that are printed horizontally (seems it's not the case here) : tend to be too small if printing walls outer to inner, or even poor 1st layer adhesion. Cura and maybe other slicers has a setting for compensating, but never tested this feature.

Edited December 15, 2023 by YaaJ

[PFarm]

@YaaJ Thanks for the suggestions, I'm almost done with the reprint. This will be a tri-colour setup, Matter3D ABS Orange, White and Black. Keeping white for the skirts. I also have an M3 drill & tap that I've used in the past. I do have an assortment of heat inserts as well.

[claudermilk]

That looks like layer splitting. From what I recall of the foot orientation for printing, it is. I've done that on not-white parts; it can happen with any color. If it were me, I'd just reprint in the same white and drill out the hole a bit, it's just to hold that trim piece on for appearance.

[PFarm]

Back to the point of progress before the reprint with the Mellow CNC SB mount and A/B belts installed.

The manual doesn't specify the orientation of the stepper worm gear bushing those it matter? I've installed mine with the short side down.

Edited December 17, 2023 by PFarm

[mvdveer]

3 hours ago, PFarm said:

I've installed mine with the short side down

That's how I have mine installed as well.

[PFarm]

Inverted electronic bay & components installed.

[claudermilk]

20 hours ago, PFarm said:

The manual doesn't specify the orientation of the stepper worm gear bushing those it matter? I've installed mine with the short side down.

Same here, short side down.

[PFarm]

Installed the rest of the skirts, and display screen, and started wiring. I think the colour scheme worked out nicely.

Update note: the front rails in this photo are installed wrong, they need to be on the inside frame, not the front. They've been relocated.

Edited January 5 by PFarm