v0.2 My First Voron - V0.2r1 (Formbot Kit)

[indi8six]

I knew this wasn't finished...

Dragon Burner V8, CANBUS and Screen

To improve quality (i.e. issue 6) I decided to switch the mini-SB to something a bit more flexible. The DragonBurner V8 was the perfect upgrade, with compatibility with my ZeroClick z-stop. I did lose about 2-3mm of Y-travel, plus I also needed to move the ZeroClick probe mount forward, my remix here. Sherp-Mini was my extruder of choice. One thing to note, I bought super cheap 4010 blowers from AE and they were extremely weak, later replaced with GDStime 9500rpm ones. Buy cheap, buy twice.

I was also frustrated at the rigidity of the original umbilical and so I went with an EBB36 CAN board with Katapult. This interfaced neatly with the U2C Can Module of the BTT Pi. I had experience with CAN on my current V2.4 build, so this was relatively straight forward. Katapult will make things easier in the future.

Finally I added a BTT SPI TFT35 screen. This was surprisingly not as responsive as I thought, requiring very firm presses. I would say it is more of a display rather than an interface device. 

Edited April 19 by indi8six

[claudermilk]

Hey! You stole my tool head! 

That looks really familiar...

[TangerineLlama]

Did you have any issues with steel kirigami? 

I am also thinking of replacing but am concerned about the weight, doesn't extra weight negate any steel stiffnes advantages?

[indi8six]

10 hours ago, TangerineLlama said:

Did you have any issues with steel kirigami? 

I am also thinking of replacing but am concerned about the weight, doesn't extra weight negate any steel stiffnes advantages?

Not at all. The weight here makes sense and is in the correct area. Z-speed isn't particularly high in most cases and the leadscrew is more than capable to compensate.

Since I bought my Steel Kirigami, Siboor have reduced their price even further. I don't see any reason to use an alloy Kirigami now.

However, I am in 2 minds about converting to a Tri-Zero.

Anyone have any thoughts?

[mvdveer]

5 hours ago, indi8six said:

Anyone have any thoughts?

I have done two of those - One as a plain Tri-zero, the other with a Boxzero mod. Still prefer my V0.1 - level the bed and forget about it. The Trizero needs a probe, Z-Tilt and auto_z_calibration to achieve the same result. 

Yes it is a fun build and worth doing if you feel so inclined. I build things because I like to tinker, challenge myself and,  it keeps me sane. If not for that, I would probably not have done as many builds.

[TangerineLlama]

17 hours ago, indi8six said:

Not at all. The weight here makes sense and is in the correct area. Z-speed isn't particularly high in most cases and the leadscrew is more than capable to compensate.

Since I bought my Steel Kirigami, Siboor have reduced their price even further. I don't see any reason to use an alloy Kirigami now.

However, I am in 2 minds about converting to a Tri-Zero.

Anyone have any thoughts?

I am asking because I just got the steel kirigami from siboor but I was hesitant to put it on because of the weight. 

Maybe look at the Hex-zero, it already includes pandoras gantry which enlarges travel size and it fixes some Tri-zero design problems/challenges.

[indi8six]

On 5/2/2024 at 11:41 AM, TangerineLlama said:

Maybe look at the Hex-zero

I hadn't seen that until now, thanks! 

On 5/2/2024 at 12:09 AM, mvdveer said:

I have done two of those - One as a plain Tri-zero, the other with a Boxzero mod. Still prefer my V0.1 - level the bed and forget about it. The Trizero needs a probe, Z-Tilt and auto_z_calibration to achieve the same result. 

Yes it is a fun build and worth doing if you feel so inclined. I build things because I like to tinker, challenge myself and,  it keeps me sane. If not for that, I would probably not have done as many builds.

Definitely more a "lets build" rather than "lets print" motive