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Simon2.4's Voron Saga


Simon2.4

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I got the 4.3" Waveshare... and.... I have yet to start on my voron's.     I got mixed up in an i3 prusa style diy build with klipper and then it morphed into building it as a prusa bear.   once that is done I am going to start on my vorons.   The frame on the i3 is wood so that is why I am going to the prusa bear frame.

 

 

Edited by 3dKaosMonkey
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1 hour ago, Hock said:

I'm going to have to try the DRO Pi 7" case. I've currently got a 7" screen on my V1, but it's in a normal case that's just sitting on top of the printer housing.

Wow, that's an honor, I hope you like it. Here is a bunch of extra info on that. did you look at the STL's ? what do you think of the print-in-place cover?

As it is now, the base piece is sized for my thick enclosure at 7mm. This can be adjusted:
7mmhik.thumb.png.e97195c5fac63712082b05818402e06a.png

Also, I did not test it yet because I'm waiting on parts to finish a bunch of peripheral stuff all at once when I put the printer out of commission. It should be next weekend. I'm pretty sure the Rpi will fit ok but I have a little doubt about the clearance between the fan and the pi's pins. I used drawings to figure out clearances but I may have did it a bit tight. The cover may need modifications but all the other parts are tested and working fine.

to separate the cover from the main body, you need to pry it from the inside from under the screw posts. if your print settings are just right, it pops off with moderate force. to do this, I placed the part in an open vice and pried with one of these:

2022-04-08_214645.png.6150b7e28ef776dcd19161dd7f1b2fe5.png

drill size is 9/32" or 7mm or 7.5mm max. drill at high speed and low pressure to prevent sudden biting, take breaks to prevent melting of the drill guide

The cable I used is a leftover from industrial worksites. the passages are for a 7mm cable so anything smaller than that will work. you will need to splice usb cables somewhere in there so take care of adding shielding, especially where the cables pass near the z motors at the corner of the base

for the base: 2 x m3 t-nuts and 2 x m3-12 screws

for the arm and main body joints, 2 x m3-30 and 2 x m3-12

for the face: 4 x m3-8 and for the cover 2 x m3-12

also, the screen's included m2.5 brass posts are too long by almost 2mm and need to be replaced. -->testing needed but I got an assortment box:
https://www.amazon.ca/gp/product/B06XX28ZZR/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o03_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

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Thanks for the info. I'll probably route cables outside just to start with (the current one is just sitting on top so they're already out there), but if that works out I'll look at going all the way. I've got a similar M2.5 assortment so I'll swap that over as well.

 

I just queued up the case/cover STL, so I'll let you know how it splits when it finishes in a few hours. Hoping it looks nice in KVP Starry Blue 😄

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Case printed just fine! Didn't even have to pop it, when I pulled the main case off the bed the cover stayed halfway attached to the build plate and 90% separated itself, except for one part where there was a touch of elephant foot. Only thing I'd say to tweak at first glance is maybe add just a tiny bit of chamfer to the gap there at the build plate to take care of any squish related elephant foot. Even just 0.1mm to 0.2mm would be enough and wouldn't produce much visual impact.

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On 4/8/2022 at 6:57 PM, Simon2.4 said:

you will need to splice usb cables somewhere in there so take care of adding shielding, especially where the cables pass near the z motors at the corner of the base

Hmm...🤔 Would running non-shielded USB extensions right by a stepper cause the cable to not work? I just tried routing a webcam extension on my Trident and my preferred routing runs the wires through the T-slot right by the A motor. I very carefully watched what wire went where to make sure I didn't cross any and my solder joints are ok. But, no picture once plugged in. I have a spare cable that I've run a temp routing on down the front frame and it's fine. I'm not real familiar with trying this kind of thing and have not tried hacking a USB cable before this.

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USB works by what is called differential pairs with special receiver and transmitter circuits in both ends. Any extension needs to not only have shielding, but also the correct individual wire "pairs" need to be twisted in order for the bit stream to get through properly.  Even the wire lengths at a USB connector need to be as short as possible.  I am assuming that nothing was running when the webcam was plugged in, so it wasn't a motor proximity problem at that time (I suspect that the motor would disrupt signals if turned on though).  There is a lot of traffic that has to go back and forth successfully in order to have the computer recognize the device.

the stepper motors along with the current limiting drivers (chopper drive) will generate magnetic fields that would induce current flow in the non-shielded wires.

You may be better off taking the webcam apart and replacing the short cable with a single long USB 2.0 or 3.0 cable as a direct connection (scavenge a mouse or keyboard cable).

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3 hours ago, claudermilk said:

non-shielded USB extensions

That I know of they all have aluminium sheathing, even the really skinny ones. but I'm not sure.

1 hour ago, SteveThatcher said:

but also the correct individual wire "pairs"

the 2 data wires need to form a twisted pair in high speed usb standards. Not sure if usb2 counts  as High speed here. I suppose one could take a pair of wisted wires from a network cable

 

Sadly I'm still waiting on the tempered glass to finish a bunch of things including moving the rpi and testing these things. I already spliced my webcam usb wire and it works fine. I did not try adding a section of cable yet though.

1 hour ago, SteveThatcher said:

taking the webcam apart and replacing the short cable with a single long USB 2.0 or 3.0 cable as a direct connection

that's a sure way of doing it for sure. Hopefully I wont need to change the cable I used already but It won't be a big deal if I have to

thanks @SteveThatcher

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2 hours ago, Simon2.4 said:

the 2 data wires need to form a twisted pair in high speed usb standards. Not sure if usb2 counts  as High speed here. I suppose one could take a pair of wisted wires from a network cable

thanks @SteveThatcher

2.0 was technically the first high speed version of the USB standard. You could use cat5e or cat6 cable as a link. One pair can be power and the other can be data. As long as you connect the "data" wires right, it should work. The network cable impedance is 100 ohms and USB cables are 90 ohm. It is probably close enough. Frankly, you may be able to get away with a RJ45 connector on the camera side if you want something removable (at least the RJ45 can be cutoff and a new one put on easily unlike the USB connectors).  I have not tried network cable or the RJ45, so it would be an interesting experiment. I would think USB 2.0 would be okay, but 3.0 may be pushing it past what would work.

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New Print Head

 

Ever since the beginning, I've been having troubles with my AB print head. Mostly, I think it's the fetus rotting in its belly. I mean Phaetus...

the heatbreak has little ridges inside and it jams up way too often. Last week it failed twice after 7-8 hours in a 9 hour print 🤬

I can't say I like the clockwork very much either, It's reliable and strong but does not feed well and it's chinesium motor gets too hot.

I initially wanted a Mosquito but they are very expensive and have supposedly "cheated" the voron community. I don't know much about that story but the first argument was enough.

I'm going to use the Bondtech BMG lite extruder with a genuine E3D v6 hotend. and the sexy Halo Duct

This should make a lightweight and robust head.

lgx.png.a28fa584ed693f5a7362100b698dfd8d.pngv6.png.200764badf90deb07f1d8eb06618f961.png

https://github.com/tsitalon1/VoronUsers/tree/master/HaloDuct

halo.png.d8697ad323d09d5530a407642424ece0.png

https://github.com/VoronDesign/VoronUsers/tree/master/printer_mods/Mrgl-Mrgl/LGX_Lite_Mount

279848990_lgxmount.thumb.png.2f49d1ed42e36ea3fa3a700944b3fdde.png

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12 minutes ago, mvdveer said:

Starting my build soon. Was all set to go then V2r was released. Nearly finished reprinting all parts. Thanks for all the helpful tips and comments.

Sharing passions helps maintain sanity ; my pleasure buddy , looking forward to this build!

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  • 3 months later...

Hey guys I miss you all, I've been focused on my work and put everything else aside for now. That's the compromise from having 3 months off in the winter 🤑🤢🤮  

A few months ago I got all my parts for my new printhead and took the 'old' one apart now I have a few days off and want to finish that upgade and play a bit with my printer but I forgot so many details.

I was playing around with the LGX-lite extruder and that thing feels premium. Looking forward to trying it out.

for now I'm doing a whole lot of this:
gps.PNG.bf9e5ce280c94b7dfbd37b809fea3226.PNG

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BIG PROGRESS!

DRO style RaspberryPi housing and 7inc Touchscreen is complete

@Hock 😃

She is HEFTY so to access the bottom compartment, it took some planning. Inspired by something I say here a few days ago, I drew up some 'cart wheels' to protect the Z-axis assemblies and rubber feet while I tilt it back. I made them big and strong so.

20220731_132329.thumb.jpg.ebded5c68a28a646d18b2f95df2ecc1b.jpg20220731_132342.thumb.jpg.c842ca3dc5db863ae54568ce903910a2.jpg

So the first thing I did after laying her on her back was to finally install my side switch

20220731_154657.thumb.jpg.d86e58a7a70299f77ffb4b69d0b029d0.jpg

 

DRO power management:  I soldered on the monitor's PCB cause I had no space to plug on the header. I added 2 pairs of wires for the Pi and for the fan

20220731_121035.thumb.jpg.1bc7dbc0d5e3b0f73c9d4fc1b75833fd.jpg

USB shenanigans:

For cables, I just used 2 spare USB A-B cables from a dusty box. Try to get the thinnest possible wires that are shielded.

Since the cable needed a splice in any case, I bought 'Type-A' USB connectors to make my own cable termination:

20220731_105506.thumb.jpg.5be9e4c26be88a6a3c4d759b03f48f3b.jpg

1718010520_usbtypea.PNG.8807aea7da3b6f5ee66216956698206e.PNG

https://www.digikey.ca/en/products/detail/adam-tech/USB-AP-S-RA-SMT/9832307

 

Keep the wires as short as possible. I used a ferrule to join up the sheathings from both cables, which includes stainless steel, aluminum, copper, cotton and mylar... It can't be soldered ! 

20220731_112332.thumb.jpg.68e6bd0b99a837e031079235b0f20bb3.jpg

Hot-Snot for that extra Chineseum touch also, I soldered a solid copper rod between the two connectors for strength and connected the wire sheaths to it via that yellow wire. you can see it through the snot on the right side

20220731_114132.thumb.jpg.6a154ef9840517fdfeb2a9c91e9993e5.jpg

As for the other ends of the cables, I just did a simple soldered splice with heat shrink: made them as short as possible, as straight as possible, and I introduced 1 turn between the data lines in the joint and shielded with foil tape.

RF shielding and hot-snot hider: it's just aluminum foil tape:

20220731_122123.thumb.jpg.c7332fe0e40d0cfd357d1ff9afece2dd.jpg20220731_154353.thumb.jpg.c7cfdb1df27e54e79eb26256bb8cc30e.jpg

It all worked first try, thanks to careful planning, help from @SteveThatcher and @claudermilk for sorting out USB details.

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  • 8 months later...

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