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Voron Micron 180. The tiny gimmick v2.5143


Maurici

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@Maurici FYI I have been informed that hartk has noted the Sexbolt is no longer stock for Micron & the manual is being updated to reflect that. Also the CAD has been changed to 180 for a while & it's suggested to download the latest. Also suggested to join the Discord; good advice--it's a firehose of info, but is useful when you need a quick answer.

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4 hours ago, claudermilk said:

@Maurici FYI I have been informed that hartk has noted the Sexbolt is no longer stock for Micron & the manual is being updated to reflect that. Also the CAD has been changed to 180 for a while & it's suggested to download the latest. Also suggested to join the Discord; good advice--it's a firehose of info, but is useful when you need a quick answer.

thanks.

I did write to Hartk Via instagram... he modified the cad to 180 after I complained to blurolls about the issue. Nevertheless, I could not handle it with 180mm. It was not enough space to land one of the outer nuts. I´m guessing If you start to lose tenths of mm in the frame or in your prints tolerances, is pretty easy to stack up 5 tenths in total.

I also gave him some suggestions to help improve the blurolls kit if is of any interest, as despite is not one of his referred links, the kit has allegedly been vetted and checked by himself (I honestly doubt it) Sadly I didn´t get acknowledge of reading and not sure anything will be taken on board.

The sexbolt thing... once I had the whole deck with bed and gantry mocked up, was pretty clear it was no space for it.

Either way, I can´t have any complains regardless if my inputs are or not taken on board. without his work I wouldn´t have this amazing printer and I´m eternally grateful. Once I´m finished I´ll drop the remainders of my budget (believe it or not I´m slightly under budget) to his patreon account.

 

If my experiences, frustrations and communications (and lack of) with blurolls along with this post, helps to make the life of the next maker easier, I´ll take it as a win.

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More onto the Mods topic... what are your takes about mounting the nevermore onto the roof?

I can´t find a decent location to fit a filtering solution, and since I started printing ABS regularly, the habitability of my studio has improved significantly since my printers are equipped with nevermore, but not sure how heavy the ABS VOCs are and if they will ever hit the roof...

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16 hours ago, claudermilk said:

@Maurici FYI I have been informed that hartk has noted the Sexbolt is no longer stock for Micron & the manual is being updated to reflect that. Also the CAD has been changed to 180 for a while & it's suggested to download the latest. Also suggested to join the Discord; good advice--it's a firehose of info, but is useful when you need a quick answer.

Also... what is the discord server i should join?

Im useless in discord, and i dont know how to find servers without an invite/link

 

EDIT-Found it, doomcube thing

Edited by Maurici
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Well. Joining discord was a great shout. 

Asked a question. 3 minutes later had an answer.

6 hours later had filter(s)

https://github.com/nateb16/VoronUsers/tree/master/printer_mods/nateb16/THE_FILTER

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Ideally you want to have Zero pannels or the likes, and a dupont coonector just in the back of the fan to be able to change the carbon without faff!

 

As Is my printer, It had to be a bodge somehow. I´ve been controlling myself for the whole build till now! I´ve ran out of accent and main ABS... the only ABS remaining at home was signal red.

 

At least It will be visible, isn´t it?

 

 

Edited by Maurici
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Well. Today is live or die for the Mighty micron...

First print over 300 degrees. (330 actually) the hot end struggles to keep the 335 I do really need, but I think is due the 24V cooling fan when it should be an smaller 5V ones.

61 degrees (and creeping) in the enclosure. 50% part cooling for bridges (not sure how well PC will cope with this) and THE MEGA MATERIAL. If that thing turns out OK, and the strenght is comparable of what I get in the enclosed cartesians with the BIQU h2 extruder, I´ll have a problem.... coz I will have no excuse to throw the cartesians out trough the window and get a whole new 2.4/trident.

This dragon HF hot end is MEGA BTW...

I hope the print turns out at least half OK, as I´m pretty sure the current ABS+ Miniaftersherpa installed won´t survive the print and needs to be replaced by the product is printing...

Live or die little Micron... (I´m so dramatic... aren´t i?)

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1 minute ago, Maurici said:

coz I will have no excuse to throw the cartesians out trough the window and get a whole new 2.4/trident.

Do you really need an excuse? 😁

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7 minutes ago, Maurici said:

I´m pretty sure the current ABS+ Miniaftersherpa installed won´t survive the print

ABS's melting point is about 120C and can withstand temps up to 100C easily. You may be surprised, I may be wrong. Time will tell. Crossing my fingers and toes hoping this will turn out just brilliantly. I want to see you build a new Voron!

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11 minutes ago, Maurici said:

but I think is due the 24V cooling fan when it should be an smaller 5V ones.

yep. dropped the "hot end fan speed" to 0.7 and is now keeping temperature at 335 no problems. Really stable taking in account is been PDI'd tuned @255

6 minutes ago, mvdveer said:

I want to see you build a new Voron!

My last one has been an struggle. Not sure I like you anymore... 

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15 minutes ago, smirk said:

Please don't tell me it's a 12-hour prin

 

its a 4 ish hours print... either way, it will be tomorrow for me.

15 minutes ago, smirk said:

The suspense is killing me?

Arent you dramatic too?

15 minutes ago, smirk said:

defenestrated

That this word exists in english is funny. Comes from Fenestra, that happens to be window in latin and how is called window in my mother tongue (catalan).

 

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Well. No need to wait anymore. Nothing has melted...

3 prints failures with significant wrapp and corner lifting within the first 15 layers.

Im confused.

 

Same surface used in the cartesians... (glass with pvglue)

Even higher chamber temperature. (50tops in the cartesians, 60 creeping to 65 in the micron).

Same speed setup.

Tried tuning first layer... big brim... no luck.

Any suggestions?

 

I thought i had this material figured out and it would be just a matter of finding out if the printer would melt or not... but apparently there is more to it. 😞

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Are you printing with ABS? Personally I always use ABS slurry for this occasions. And if your ABS+ is not very dissolvable in acetone than use regular ABS for slurry making... in the end they will stuck together but you'll have a very thin first layer of maybe different color 🙂

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8 hours ago, Maurici said:

Tried tuning first layer... big brim... no luck.

fan speeds experiement... what are your parts fan speed? try low as possible, or even off for most things. AAnd if still curling up, try faster speeds...  I had it also for a while till I figured out the right speed, but that was for ASA/ABS, not PC10.

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1 hour ago, eugen360 said:

Are you printing with ABS?

PC-10. Wit ABS no troubles.

56 minutes ago, Buurman said:

fan speeds experiement... what are your parts fan speed? try low as possible, or even off for most things. AAnd if still curling up, try faster speeds...  I had it also for a while till I figured out the right speed, but that was for ASA/ABS, not PC10.

No Fan at all(other than bridges)... same speeds as on the other printers...

Not sure where to go next. I´ll keep trying. (I´ve even harmonised temperatures to the degree with an external thermistor)...

 

Edited by Maurici
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Well. Live updates,

Managed to make it stick (so far somewhere around 1/2 of the print height and not wrapping). Smooth PEI sheet with PV glue, has worked out. sadly isn´t what worked in the cartesians.

Also managed to melt the ABS aftersherpa, so... I hope the print finishes!!

You can see It tried to pull the brim out, Happily without sucess. 

The print is looking really really good tho.

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my hot end cowling has moved back to the 70s and bought a pair of "bell" flared cut Jeans...

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Back to the late 90s... white jeans now.

A really really smart print that requiered no fiddling to even insert the small part fans.

Impressed.

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On the other side... ruined my PEI sheet.

Any recommendations of brands that may work at a decent temperature?

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well. time to feel myself like a Noob again.

Tried once more in glass with PV glue. This time measured bed surface temperature...

I was losing about 10 degrees on average on the glass vs the PEI sheet and VS what I see in surface on my cartesians.

So... I´ve given today someone the advise to harmonise temperatures between different printers (if you want to cross-match profiles) and I was failing on my own advice and ruined the smooth part of a perfectly good PEI sheet on the process.

Well done maurici, well done.

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4 hours ago, Maurici said:

So... I´ve given today someone the advise to harmonise temperatures between different printers (if you want to cross-match profiles) and I was failing on my own advice and ruined the smooth part of a perfectly good PEI sheet on the process.

Not only have you helped another 3d-er but yourself. How often do we do this. The answer is glaringly obvious when someone asks for advice but when we have the same issue our minds goes into warp mode and skips all the planets that have aligned with the answer.

A good lesson for me to - saw your post re the temp probe - searching on Amazon.

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7 minutes ago, mvdveer said:

lesson for me to - saw your post re the temp probe - searching on Amazon.

Is this post is of interest, im happy to write an small monogram about how i do it.

Im a thermal systems -test and validation- engineer so celsius and kelvins are my life.

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Just now, Maurici said:

Is this post is of interest, im happy to write an small monogram about how i do it.

That would be great and a great source for members of the forum - Thank you

This would be a good place for it.

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