Let's try...... a Trident

[mvdveer]

Build Manual Pages 290 - 300: Panels, 306-311:Exhaust

Mods: Logitech C290 Slim mount (link),

Chamber LED's (eddietheengineer)

Purge Bucket and nozzle scrubber (Trident Mount, Purge bucket)

Generally the Formbot kit has been excellent so far. Knew it was too good to last. Started on the paneling and realised that the build manual calls for 1mm foam tape on the back panel and top panel and 3mm foam tape on the side panels. So formbot only supplied 1mm foam tape.

Printed the panel clips and prepared those.

Prepared the back panel and went on to installing that and exhaust whilst waiting for the 3mm foam tape to arrive.

 

Logitech C922 camera mounted on the front top extrusion,

with the cable hidden in the extrusion and covered by profile covers

Chamber LED's installed using eddietheengineers design. (as seen on one of Steve's Builds)

 

Purge bucket and nozzle scrubber installed.

Next spoolholder, then start up and tuning

 

 

[mvdveer]

Build wise, nearly done. Decided to turn it on. Fist good news - no magic smoke. Everything started as it should. But alas, that was the end of my smiley face as soon as I observed the output from mainsail.

Klipper reported an error - ERR19 no such device.  Mmmmhhh, this is a first. Carefully went through the printer.cfg file - cannot see any obvious issues. Back to the raspi - lets do a search for the device id's.

Raspi complained - no USB devices found.  Ok - lets check the wiring - some idot forgot to reconnect the USB between the Octopus and the raspi - must be me.

Fired it up again, held my breath - Klipper complained again - ADC out of range.

Off came the Stealthburner - must be dodgy crimping on the nozzle heater thermister - suprisingly it was not.

Back to the klipper printer.cfg

Sensor type set at NTC100k as that what Mellow Web site says it is.

After more reading, looked at the sample config and there they list a different sensor:

sensor_type = ATC Semitec 104GT-2

Changed the printer.cfg accordingly and as Leonard Cohen so beautifully sang - HALLELUAH

BUT: No LED's on the Stealthburner - some choice words followed - off with the Stealthburner again!

 

 

[mvdveer]

Finally got the green light from the Stealthburner.

Someone - no names, no pack drill -  soldered the 5V from the leds to the signal pin on the SB board and the Signal wire to the 5V pin.

Also got the 3mm Foam Tape - let's finish this build and get onto testing. Getting anxious to print.

 

[Buurman]

Looks awesome!!!! the grey/silver starts to grow on me..... well done! 

PS. why is that lonesome lock nut in the top?  hahaha!

[mvdveer]

1 hour ago, Buurman said:

PS. why is that lonesome lock nut in the top?  hahaha!

Again, instead of loading the nuts for the exhaust at the rear, I had to do it in front - will get rid of it!

 

[Buurman]

3 minutes ago, mvdveer said:

Agin, instead of loading the nuts for the exhaust at the rear, I had to do it in front - will get rid of it!

I was thinking, either that, OR a cool mod coming up  

[mvdveer]

Sadly I have come to the end of the physical build. Now the tuning starts and have already run into a problem. Voron TAP not activating/Triggering. Let the fun begin - troubleshooting. Why can't things just work?

I give you VORON TRIDEND 250mm SILVER AND GRAY

[mvdveer]

Seems I'll have to strip the toolhead down to access the optical sensor of the TAP conversion. Can't get it to trigger. Connected to the sb2040 canbus (5V,gnd,gpio28). The LED is constantly ON

 @claudermilk, I now feel your pain: 

Quote

I am getting the led constant no matter what, so for some reason the optical sensor isn't triggering for me

 

[atrushing]

1 hour ago, mvdveer said:

Voron TAP not activating/Triggering. Let the fun begin - troubleshooting. Why can't things just work?

That's why it's called the 'bleeding edge' of technology.. Good luck!

[Wick]

wow, cool colour choice, looks great!

what I read on discord the most common errors on TAP are the different pinouts, so don't use a 1 to 1 cable

SB2040 : 5V,GND,GPIO28  TAP: G,Signal,+        

on TAP v2.1 5-24V also a bad soldering could cause it not to work (especially JST Connector)

Edited January 25, 2023 by Wick

[smirk]

5 hours ago, mvdveer said:

Finally got the green light from the Stealthburner.

That's a good-looking machine!

[claudermilk]

Looking great! But I'm biased, a lot of aspects look very familiar to me.  I feel your pain on Tap, but it will be great when it works. At least that's what they tell me.

[Stadi]

Looks really nice, I like the color combination. Enjoy the next challenge until it prints

[mvdveer]

9 hours ago, atrushing said:

That's why it's called the 'bleeding edge' of technology.. Good luck!

But do we have to be pioneers? Got it sorted thanks, The pillar on the TAP mount was too short to activate the optical sensor.

[mvdveer]

9 hours ago, Wick said:

wow, cool colour choice, looks great!

Thanks @Wick. The issue was that the optical sensor was not triggering due to the Tap baseplate

[mvdveer]

6 hours ago, claudermilk said:

At least that's what they tell me.

I find it great - has been working very well on the Voron 2.4r2. Got the TAP triggering on the Trident now. AS I said in a reply to your post, it was a physical problem ,not electronic.

[mvdveer]

TAP Not Triggering

 

As previously mentioned this TAP did not change its state - was always open, no matter the position.

I checked the wiring and my multimeter told me there was not an issue there. Stripped down the toolhead and observed the behaviour of the optical sensor unmounted. It triggered, thus the issue had to be elsewhere.

The culprit was the trigger point on the TAP mount - it was too "short" to trigger the sensor.

Out came the trusted 3DPen and added a couple of mm to the top of the mount:

Filed this down, remounted the optical sensor and ......... TAP triggered.

So I ask myself why does this happen - the part printed very well. The PCB, I have mounted is an assembled board bought locally in Melbourne (Online 3d Printer supplier) . It has the local company's name on it. I presume what has happened that is that the mounting holes are 2-3mm off, thus the board mounts high and not triggering.

Well got it sorted.

Thanks to everyones suggestions!

On to the initial startup

[mvdveer]

INITIAL Startup (https://docs.vorondesign.com/build/startup/)

Being the first printer with a canbus setup, I was a bit nervous as to what issues I may encounter in the initial startup.

1. Verify heaters /temperature --- no issues

2. Stepper Motor Check ---- Again had the A and B motors wrongly connected - seems I just cannot get this right the first time around. Got an error on the rear Z motor - uart cannot connect to stepper motor. Well if there is no stepper driver, it won't. What is confusing to me is that on the octopus there is Motor 0, Motor 1, Motor 2_1,  Motor 2_2, Motor 3, etc.The stepper driver sockets though obviously does not follow this, and I failed to populate a driver in that socket.

Also had to adjust the direction pins on X and Y and the rear Z motor.   ------  all worked in the end

3. Endstop checks - After the initial hiccup, as outlined above, no further problems

4. XY Homing check  ------ no issues

5. Bed Locating. ---- Took a while to get 0,0 spot on ---- completed

6. Probe accuracy Check after "running in" the TAP - probe_accuracy samples=100 - results not too bad for a first run. Was expecting better:

7. PID Tune Bed and Hotend ----- no issues

8. Bed Leveling - Z_TILT_ADJUST ---- had to play around with the probing points a bit but happy with the results. Within a tolerance of 0.005

9. Probe Calibrate --- Set, rerun and confirmed offset

10. Extruder Calibration - --- no issues

 

Let's open up the Andre Ellis Tuning guide

[claudermilk]

 You're getting 0.003 standard deviation with your shiny new optical, and I got 0.005 with my UnTap. Maybe I'm expecting too much right now. Of course, that's plenty good enough for running 0.1-0.3 layer heights. (LOL, I just redid probe_accuracy right now & got 0.002).

[mvdveer]

4 hours ago, claudermilk said:

I just redid probe_accuracy right now & got 0.002).

That's pretty good - still got to see the 0.000

[atrushing]

37 minutes ago, mvdveer said:

That's pretty good - still got to see the 0.000

I have been doing a bit of probing in different locations on the bed with the IR sensor and have seen the coveted 0.000 a couple times but normally it will give me better than 0.006 on the textured side and ~0.003 on the smooth PEI side.

What Z speed are you probing at? For now I'm probing at 10mm/sec.

[mvdveer]

4 hours ago, atrushing said:

What Z speed are you probing at? For now I'm probing at 10mm/sec.

Ditto - 10mm/sec.

Got a 0.001 today - getting better every time I run Probe accuracy. Read somewhere it takes about 3000 probes to get consistent results.

[claudermilk]

Nice. For mine, I have speed of 10 (I think that's default Voron config). I'm probing cold on textured, so I guess I'm in the expected range for a new setup. I have also seen the coveted 0.0000 on occasion.

[mvdveer]

Ran into an interesting issue last night. Spent most of the day tuning the printer as per Andrew Ellis' guide. Machine was on for 14 hours plus. According to the sensor on the SB2040 the chamber got to 61 degrees, confirmed with an external thermometer . (The macros I use, activate the Ellis bed fans and nevermore and exhaust fans at a bed temperature of 100 degrees Celsius.)

Ran several first layer squish patterns, PID tuning, etc. By the end of the day the sb2040 mcu temp was higher than the chamber temp (64C) and I was getting probe errors - probe triggered before movement. Other temps (Raspi Mcu 34.3C, Octopus mcu 42C)

Turned off the printer and went to bed - this morning all again working as expected.

The sb2040 Canbus board has a large heatsink on the mcu and a cooling fan. But in my mind, all the cooling fan does, is blow hot air from the chamber onto the mcu in a very confined space.  (Like a heater circulating the air). Will run some test with the fan off and see what happens

[mvdveer]

Ended up stripping the hotend down . The Voron Tap, tested manually, seem to get stuck at the top of the movement. On inspection this occurred at the point of the inserted magnets on the back plate.

I know heat tends to expand things and the hotter it gets, the less effective magnets are. So I moved the two magnets back by a millimetre, Free hand movement went ok, no sticking anymore. Re-assembled and started testing again.

Temperatures are back up where they were last night without any issues so far. 

Never to old to learn they say - well, I am still learning everyday.