Let's try...... a Trident

[claudermilk]

17 hours ago, mvdveer said:

Tried but was afraid to snap them. Printed at the normal Voron Settings. Assembled off the frame. Perhaps an idea to assemble on the frame without the inlet housing  - I just tested that and unassembled the idler flexes over the extrusion. Then add the inlet housing. It makes sense and should have thought of that as the two adjustment screws may affect flex of the housing.

I went ahead and tested a bit later and they will flex enough. I also printed two sets (I'm learning--I am making sure I have a full spare set of printed parts for the entire gantry).

I didn't go in person, but watch the Disney+ taping of the Dodgers Stadium concert for Elton John. Great show. I've never been a specific fan, but realized while watching I've grown up listening to his music and enjoyed all of it.

[mvdveer]

Build Manual Pages 98 - 116:  X-Axis

Mod:   Nero's idler bearing stack in place of toothed idler

 

 

 

After assembling the X-Axis, I rechecked the squareness of the frame again and squared the gantry as per Nero3D's well know clip.

 

 

Next up Belts......

[mvdveer]

Build Manual Page 118 - 137 Belts

Mod: Voron TAP with 5V PCB and optical sensor: (https://github.com/VoronDesign/Voron-Tap)

Routing the Belts were a breeze with the front idler mod and the Voron Tap X-carriage.  Have not tensioned the belts as yet, but took the opportunity to tighten ALL bolts again and checking that by doing this, the gantry is still square. 

 

Next up - Print Bed

[mvdveer]

Build Manual Pages 138 - 161: Print Bed

Mods: Omission of Z-Endstop

As I am using Voron Tap, I omitted installation of a Z-Endstop. If I were going to install one, it would have been the sexbolt end stop mod.

Bed assembly pretty straight forward and I was very impressed with the wiring solutions in the Formbot kit.

 

A couple of observations: After mounting the bed to the frame, the manual instructs to: 

"LOOSEN AND RETIGHTEN Slightly loosen the bolts that hold the bed frame to the printed parts and gently shake the bed frame before retightening them" Maybe I am overthinking this, but why? , as not much happened when I followed this. Perhaps it helps with alignment?

The second point was that the manual had you fit the bed to the bed frame before then having you attach the Wago connecters to the extrusion. At this point the extrusion mounting point is under the print bed.

Thus I removed the bed, installed the wago strip and re-installed the print bed. This way also ensures better planning of where the bed wiring will run.

Starting to look a lot like Xmas, a printer.

Next section in the Trident manual - Afterburner.

Not going this route, but stealthburner instead.

 

 

[smirk]

Looking really good, I'm enjoying this build, and I'm really enjoying the colour scheme. The more pictures I see I keep thinking "Hmmmm......perhaps...."

[mvdveer]

22 minutes ago, smirk said:

Looking really good, I'm enjoying this build, and I'm really enjoying the colour scheme. The more pictures I see I keep thinking "Hmmmm......perhaps...."

Still undecided if I am going all silver, or adding in some light blue. 

 

Silver ?

Light Blue ?

Or a mixture - only time will tell

 

[atrushing]

1 hour ago, mvdveer said:

going all silver, or adding in some light blue

I think that once you get the StealthBurner in there it will become more apparent which way you need to go.

[Stadi]

I would prefer silver and leave out the light blue. I think the silver looks classier.
But it's just a matter of taste and you have to like it

[claudermilk]

9 hours ago, smirk said:

Looking really good, I'm enjoying this build, and I'm really enjoying the colour scheme. The more pictures I see I keep thinking "Hmmmm......perhaps...."

11 hours ago, mvdveer said:

Build Manual Pages 138 - 161: Print Bed

Mods: Omission of Z-Endstop

As I am using Voron Tap, I omitted installation of a Z-Endstop. If I were going to install one, it would have been the sexbolt end stop mod.

Bed assembly pretty straight forward and I was very impressed with the wiring solutions in the Formbot kit.

A couple of observations: After mounting the bed to the frame, the manual instructs to: 

"LOOSEN AND RETIGHTEN Slightly loosen the bolts that hold the bed frame to the printed parts and gently shake the bed frame before retightening them" Maybe I am overthinking this, but why? , as not much happened when I followed this. Perhaps it helps with alignment?

The second point was that the manual had you fit the bed to the bed frame before then having you attach the Wago connecters to the extrusion. At this point the extrusion mounting point is under the print bed.

Thus I removed the bed, installed the wagon strip and re-installed the print bed. This way also ensures better planning of where the bed wiring will run.

 

First off, flip your WAGO holder. Here's mine:

Second, the recommendation is to securely tighten one mounting screw and leave the other two just slightly loose. That allows for thermal expansion. I have the front left screw tight and the other two about 1/8 to 1/4 turn back from snug.

Oh, and as for color my vote is for silver. Of course.

[mvdveer]

5 hours ago, claudermilk said:

First off, flip your WAGO holder. Here's mine:

Thanks will do - have done

5 hours ago, claudermilk said:

That allows for thermal expansion.

AH ha - makes sense, thanks for clarifying - manual a bit confusing there as it states to loosen and retighten

[mvdveer]

Build Manual Pages 162 - 191: Afterburner - SKIPPED

Mod:  Stealthburner 

Stealth Burner Manual 9 - 34: Clockwork 2

 

Decided to build the clockwork 2 extruder. I am however going to go with an orbiter extruder v2 as I quite like the filament load unload of the runout sensor of this unit.

But for this build right now - CW2

The build was a pleasure but a word of warning - READ the Manual, even if you think you have read it, read it again. I read the manual before assembly and during assembly, knew I read something about an anti squish thingamajig. Whilst building and finishing the CW2 - I realised I did not do to an anti squish thingamajig. Somehow I completely missed this.

 

 

 

Fitted the Mellow Fly SB2040 PCB - guess I am committed now to CANBUS

 

On to the Hotend tool Carriage

 

 

[mvdveer]

Build Manual Pages 162 - 191: Afterburner - SKIPPED

Mod:  Stealthburner 

Stealth Burner Manual 36 - 43 Hotend Tool Carriage

Seeing that I am now totally into the Revo ecosystem, I had to continue that trend and fitted a Revo Voron to this build. Not much to say here.

Next up StealthBurner Face

 

[mvdveer]

Color decided!

Silver it is.

Here are two examples as a comparison 

 

[Stadi]

3 hours ago, mvdveer said:

Color decided!

Silver it is.

Here are two examples as a comparison 

good decision

[mvdveer]

Build Manual Pages 162 - 191: Afterburner - SKIPPED

Mod:  Stealthburner 

Stealth Burner Manual 44 - 57 Stealthburner face

Mod: Mellow Fly SB2040 SB PCB

Installation of LED's , fans and PCB was pretty straightforward. However, I then started overthinking things when it came to soldering on the wires to the PCB. Do I solder the fans to 24V and GND or 24V and PWM? After searching the net and looking at the original Hartk PCB board soldered them to 24V and PWM (pin on hartk pcb)

 

[mvdveer]

Build Manual Pages 162 - 191: Afterburner - SKIPPED

Mod:  Stealthburner 

Stealth Burner Manual 58 - 66 X-Carriage skipped

Have installed the Voron TAP modification, thus no need to build a X-Carriage

 

[mvdveer]

Build Manual Pages 162 - 191: Afterburner - SKIPPED

Mod:  Stealthburner 

Stealth Burner Manual 68-69 ADXL345 - SKIPPED

 

As the Mellow Fly board has a built in accelerometer, this section was skipped. 

 

That concludes the Stealthburner build.

Back to the original Trident Build manual - Next - Wiring prep. A section I used to dread but as the Mellow kit came with a wiring harness, this should hopefully be pretty straight forward. But I am well aware of the saying - "Famous last words..."

[smirk]

11 hours ago, mvdveer said:

But I am well aware of the saying - "Famous last words..."

Look out of your window, can you see an angry maelstrom of divine wrath gathering over your house? If not, you might've got away with it.....

[mvdveer]

57 minutes ago, smirk said:

Look out of your window, can you see an angry maelstrom of divine wrath gathering over your house?

Oh was wondering what that ominous black cloud was that's hanging around

[mvdveer]

Build Manual Pages 192 - 206: Wiring Prep:

Mod: Inverted Electronics (https://github.com/VoronDesign/VoronUsers/tree/master/printer_mods/LoganFraser/TridentInvertedElectronics)

Happy with the outcome, the inverted electronics mods was very easy to install. Don't know how easy it would be to convert the traditional electronics install to inverted though. I bet it would be a real pain in the proverbial. I was fascinated by the "twisting" deck supports and "'zip tie loops". But then small things amuses small minds! Must be getting weak as I had to use a small pliers to twist these little suckers into position. Luckily none broke, but gave way to the force of the pliers.

 

The deck panel fits very nicely, supported by the din rail mounts and the deck support clips.

 

 

Next up in the manual is the electronics. As I was "stupid" enough to opt for a canbus (Mellow Fly SB2040) , I am going to program the pi, octopus and SB2040 Canbus board before mounting these. I am going the CanBoot way. Have done a lot of reading and followed the thread here as well:

Will follow @danja 's instructions religiously and am positive it will work. 

Also found a good write up here:

https://github.com/akhamar/voron_canbus_octopus_sb2040#useful-tricks-to-be-able-to-update-an-octopus-11-in-usb-to-can-bridge

That black cloud is still hanging around @smirk  

[Wick]

Great Build diary, many thanks for your detailed steps of building up

may I mention is that your printquality of your parts seems not to be the best? infill layers are not angled, top layer surfaces look a bit strange on the pics... maybe this is the photo effect

I also use the inverted electronics but modified the din-mounts to allow mounting other fans (Noctua NF8 80x80x25 as the stock sunons are very noisy)

edit: forgot to mention that I had to shorten the din-rails by 20mm

Inverted_DIN_Mount_10mm_offset.stl

Edited January 16, 2023 by Wick

[mvdveer]

8 hours ago, Wick said:

may I mention is that your printquality of your parts seems not to be the best? infill layers are not angled, top layer surfaces look a bit strange on the pics... maybe this is the photo effect

Any suggestions to improve? Happy to learn - have gone through Andrew Ellis Tuning guide several times. Maybe some super slicer settings. Will have a play around. Parts are strong and dimensionally accurate.

[mvdveer]

@Wick I have posted some close ups of larger parts. Any suggestions appreciated. (This is ABS+)

1. Bottom surface (first layer)

2. Top Surface

3. Sides

[mvdveer]

8 hours ago, Wick said:

I also use the inverted electronics but modified the din-mounts to allow mounting other fans (Noctua NF8 80x80x25 as the stock sunons are very noisy)

Thanks for the heads up and stl - have downloaded and may make the switch to Noctua's

[Wick]

15 minutes ago, mvdveer said:

Thanks for the heads up and stl - have downloaded and may make the switch to Noctua's

I'm happy if you can use it, you'll need 2 as is and 2 mirrored ones