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Let's try...... a Trident


mvdveer
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Dusted off the Trident 250mm Formbot kit and laid out the parts on the build table.

You're not building ANOTHER one!, she said rolling her eyes. But honey - its the Trident build - remember Poseidon or Neptune - powerful Gods all had the three thronged spear. I gotta have one too. Yeah but you're not in Atlantis - you're in sunny Oz! What can I say but Trident it is.

Build plan: (I know it will change as I go along this three pronged journey)

Color Scheme: Main: Grey Accent: Silver and Light blue

(Black for electronics bay - cause if the magic smoke happens everything is already black)

@Buurman - tested the silver for strength as you suggested - seems to be holding up as good as the grey

Filament: eSun ABS+ (Hotend 245, Bed 110 Chamber 42)

Printed Parts printed on Voron 2.4r2,  - 40% infill, 0.4width forced, speed 100mm/s, acceleration: 4000mm/s

Hardware:

1. Formbot Kit as a basis (Frame, hardware, wiring, electronics, etc) BTT Octopus v1.1 board, TMC2209 stepper drivers included as well as a Bigtreetech Mini 12864 v1.0 LCD

2. Voron TAP with 5V PCB and optical sensor: (https://github.com/VoronDesign/Voron-Tap)

3. Sexbolt Z endstop:  (https://github.com/hartk1213/MISC/blob/main/Voron Mods/Voron 2/2.4/Voron2.4_SexBolt_ZEndstop/STLs/TridentSexBolt.stl)

4. Pin Mods for AB Drives and XY joints:(https://github.com/VoronDesign/VoronUsers/tree/master/printer_mods/hartk1213/Voron2.4_Trident_Pins_Mod)

5. Ramalama2 front idler mod: (https://github.com/Ramalama2/Voron-2-Mods/tree/main/Front_Idlers)

5. Door Hinge mod: (https://github.com/VoronDesign/VoronUsers/tree/master/printer_mods/randell/Door_Hinges)

6. Nevermore Carbon Filter: (https://github.com/nevermore3d/Nevermore_Micro/tree/master/V5_Duo)

7. Logitech C922 camera mount (https://github.com/VoronDesign/VoronUsers/tree/master/printer_mods/Iakabos/C920_mount)

8. Inverted Electronics mount (https://github.com/VoronDesign/VoronUsers/tree/master/printer_mods/LoganFraser/TridentInvertedElectronics)

9. Raspi Pi 4, 4GB

10. BTT PiTFT50 with Klipperscreen

11. Revo Voron Hotend

Mods considered but not yet included: (will see when I get to that part of the build )

1. Internal Spoolholder / Horseshoe spoolholder  - don't think this will fit inside a 250mm build: (https://github.com/VoronDesign/VoronUsers/tree/master/printer_mods/LoganFraser/HorseshoeSpoolHolder)

2...... whatever pops up along the way!!

No doubt @claudermilk will have some great suggestions. I know he is planning 3 mods on his already finished Trident

Unpacking the kit : Well packaged and surprised at what was included. BTT Octopus, Moons Motored, Dragon HF hotend. Rails look OK, but will have to clean and see how they perform

image.thumb.jpeg.1e412a22adce54db29c8b02e1dc36615.jpegimage.thumb.jpeg.74314394f2efd705e3b512754ae1838b.jpeg

 

IMG_3540.jpeg

IMG_3541.jpeg

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Parts all printed but the panel clips.

Accent parts: Silver and light blue:

image.thumb.jpeg.452169c34fb1e2e84835959ee49f4350.jpeg

 

Structural parts: Grey

image.thumb.jpeg.675c44cc872418ee054da041ffeb8dba.jpeg

IMG_3552.thumb.jpeg.96733b6d3c27e20dd2ecf13713623cbe.jpeg

 

Toolhead: Silver and light blue

IMG_3549.thumb.jpeg.a79d42fce972ca37723917396e31a1e1.jpeg

 

Front Idlers: (Grey/Sliver) or maybe even Grey/Light Blue

IMG_3550.thumb.jpeg.4d46c9aef1a35469254d4bcbacedc8b2.jpeg

 

AB Drives and XY Joint Pin Mods

IMG_3545.thumb.jpeg.ba28f6219fad1d5b0fc2dde58cdab8d1.jpeg

IMG_3546.thumb.jpeg.a65c4eaa90ee7990f10f0fa54e3c0b4b.jpeg

And Electronics Bay (Black)

IMG_3551.thumb.jpeg.4717c7deda471788137a7098d43c0349.jpeg

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2 hours ago, mvdveer said:

tested the silver for strength as you suggested - seems to be holding up as good as the grey

Oooh, thats cool, what brand are you using? Sorry, didnt read any further in my enthousiasm... Esun.. well, im suprised, but ok, I tested mostly on esun PLA this and came out weaker, but also, way more shiny, so maybe its just different with ABS.

Dont you find the eSun ABS extremely smelly? pffff... 

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2 hours ago, mvdveer said:

Rails look OK, but will have to clean and see how they perform

I never had to clean the Vivedino/Formbot rails, they are not oiled up as the cheap ones.. no metal scrapings anywhere. Just grease them and ready to go...

 

using the vefach filter inserts?

https://github.com/VoronDesign/VoronUsers/tree/master/printer_mods/KevinAkaSam/VEFACH

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1 hour ago, Buurman said:

Dont you find the eSun ABS extremely smelly? pffff... 

I use it alot and don't find it particularly malodorous....there again I have a god so perhaps I've gone nose-blind?!

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3 hours ago, mvdveer said:

Pin Mods for AB Drives

Where do you get your PINs (already cut to size I mean)?

(Hoorah for another build, I'm sure you'll have fun commanding the seas)

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Woo Hoo! Another Trident! 

You have a good selection of mods to start with. I'm not sure that the internal spool holder will fit in a 250; as you saw in my thread I just modded the skateboard bearing one to sit on the back.

I'm starting to put my Tap (and just in case unTAP) parts together so they are ready to bolt in. Next is cutting the rod I bought to size for the front idler pin mod. I have enough with the one piece to do at least a couple of printers.

One nice thing with the Trident is most V2.4 mods work on it. It's mainly the ones directly related to the Z motion that don't translate. Steve has stated a few times the Trident gantry is simply a V2.4 upside-down.

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5 hours ago, claudermilk said:

I'm not sure that the internal spool holder will fit in a 250; as you saw in my thread I just modded the skateboard bearing one to sit on the back.

That was my impression as well - will have to "borrow" your mod then!

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A Trident, very interesting. I've been wondering in general that many more 2.4s are being built than Tridents, is there a specific reason for that?

I saw that you used Esun's silver ABS+ as an accent color. Since the accent color on my 2.4 is also silver, I wanted to use that too. But when I first printed it I was totally disappointed because it's not silver, just gray, with no signs of a metallic effect. I then used Extrudr's ASA for the silver and it makes a huge difference. In reality, the Difference is even more serious than in the Picture

Have fun with the further development, I'll be happy to follow it

20230111_123229.thumb.jpg.bd2fe2ca7a8a1c7e33bf750da5fef9c4.jpg

Left is Extrudr, Right is Esun

 

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2 hours ago, Stadi said:

A Trident, very interesting. I've been wondering in general that many more 2.4s are being built than Tridents, is there a specific reason for that?

The flying gantry/belted Z. It's bling and kind of the unique marquee feature.

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Build Manual pages 12-21:

Started on the frame. Building on a 6mm mirror as I normally do. Took quite some time to get everything a 100% square. Ordered some 1-2-3 blocks and these finally arrived. Put the frame together with a builders square and the blocks, got the measurements accurate, corners all at 90degrees and slowly started tightening the frame. 

And then hit a snag - according to the 1-2-3 blocks, the right front corner and rear left corner is out of square by the tiniest of margins. (extremely slight play in the blocks when played against the frame - less than 0.5mm, but enough to bug me) And this occurred only when the frame was fully tightened (not overtightened). This led me to belief that one of the extrusions was not cut a 100% square. Started playing around with rotating the A-Extrusions until there was no play anywhere and all was square - most importantly the Y-Axis

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Now onto the AB drives which have already been modified with the pins mod - aim was to have the motors fitted by now, but fussing around with the frame put a stop to those plans quick smart.

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Build Manual pages 22-38: AB Drives and Front Idlers

Mod: Ramalama2 front idler mod: (https://github.com/Ramalama2/Voron-2-Mods/tree/main/Front_Idlers)

Included (borrowed from @claudermilk "Chris' 250 Trident Journey" build)

  • Nero's idler bearing stack in place of toothed idler

Finished assembling the AB drives and modified Front Idlers.

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That B-Drive looks awful in this picture - may need to reprint it although in "real life" does not look half as bad. 

IMG_3556.thumb.jpeg.9e15775c71ef475c7b21ac96471bf2f8.jpeg

 

No major issues here - all went smoothly. Remember the locktite on the grub screws. Will save a lot of headaches and heartache later.

Onto the Y-axis

 

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Build Manual Page 40 - 55 Y- Axis

Well, so much for my squaring up the frame so meticulously, as I had to take it apart again to fit the modified front idlers. In the original design, these could be fitted by loosening the bolt that clamps the two part together. No such luck with the modified idlers. Had to disassemble the Y-Extrusions in order to fit the idlers to the extrusion.

The joys of modding.

All back together again and squared up.

image.thumb.jpeg.4ea2c56ff35110250b104327b786cb7d.jpeg

 

On to the Linear Rails......

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4 hours ago, mvdveer said:

Build Manual Page 40 - 55 Y- Axis

Well, so much for my squaring up the frame so meticulously, as I had to take it apart again to fit the modified front idlers. In the original design, these could be fitted by loosening the bolt that clamps the two part together. No such luck with the modified idlers. Had to disassemble the Y-Extrusions in order to fit the idlers to the extrusion.

I don't like the sound of that. They won't flex enough to snap over the extrusion? 

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6 hours ago, claudermilk said:

They won't flex enough to snap over the extrusion? 

Tried but was afraid to snap them. Printed at the normal Voron Settings. Assembled off the frame. Perhaps an idea to assemble on the frame without the inlet housing  - I just tested that and unassembled the idler flexes over the extrusion. Then add the inlet housing. It makes sense and should have thought of that as the two adjustment screws may affect flex of the housing.

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Build Manual Pages 56 - 61 Linear Rails:

Fortunately I had several rail alignment blocks - and knew where they were more importantly.

Y bottom rails aligned and fitted.

image.thumb.jpeg.5e61c7db60a0973c8ca7589a3409047b.jpeg

 

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Next - Z-Axis

 

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Build Manual Pages 62 - 90 and Inverted Electronics Mod.  (https://github.com/VoronDesign/VoronUsers/tree/master/printer_mods/LoganFraser/TridentInvertedElectronics)

Z-Axis:

Following the manual this was a very straightforward process, as was the installation of the motor mounts from the "Inverted Electronics mod"

I did however wonder about the orientation of the LEADBOLT nut. It has a long and short end and the manual was not clear on the orientation.

 

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Does the longer part connect onto the crew at the motor end, or does it sit in the part? After doing some browsing, I decided that from what I could gather, The longer end fits into the part and the shorter end orientates to the motor. I do not think it would matter either way - only time will tell.

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IMG_3567.thumb.jpeg.345e96a26f480036c6f316794470885e.jpeg

 

Onto the Feet.......

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Build Manual Pages 91 - 97:   Feet

These will become a mod, as soon as I have purchased some more squash balls. Currently printing the panzer ball mod (https://github.com/VoronDesign/VoronUsers/tree/master/printer_mods/Slidr/PanzerBalls2.4) which is for the Voron 2.4, to see how they will fit and how much they will change the look of the printer, etc.

No issues with assembly, no specific points to be aware of except they do take a long time to print.

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Next post may be a while. Fortunate enough to have some tickets for Elton John's last concert in Melbourne (Farewell Yellow Brick Road - The Final Tour) for tonight. 

Next X-Axis.

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