An Idea for a chamber heater v. 0.2

I'm keen to give this a go. Already have all of the bits so it should be easy enough. I really like the compact size. Interested in how well it will work.

Unless I'm missing something it doesn't look like there's an intake opening for the fan. I'll see about adding one and testing it out.

shit... i deactivated the feature for the hole.. I will update the model asap

I found out that in my model a lot of features and corrections ware deactivated... but now it should be printable and should work

Is 40w or so going to heat the chamber enough? I think it will certainly help.

On a Voron 0 the heated bed alone dumps 60w of heat into the chamber during warmup in addition to the heat from the hotend.  Of course both the bed and hotend have their power reduced when they attain the target temperature while this heater could be controlled separately..

I see one potential weakness in the design:   Hotends are designed specifically to prevent heat from the heater block from migrating to the heatsink, while here you would want to maximize this effect.  Perhaps a solid brass or copper bolt could replace the heatbreak? As the V6 has an uncommon 7mm thread in the heatsink, perhaps an older V5 type heatsink with the 6mm thread (same as the heater block) could be used with a brass 6mm bolt.

The next question would be if the heatsink could dissipate 40w of heat without melting the housing... it was only meant to dissipate the heat that creeps past the heatbreak. Perhaps a smaller heater element should be used. 

And finally, to regulate this could be tricky. You ultimately want to regulate the chamber temperature but running this heater without some kind of sensor on the heater could be disastrous if the fan were to fail. Perhaps a thermal fuse could be attached?

Good luck!

1 hour ago, ChicagoKeri said:

Is 40w or so going to heat the chamber enough? I think it will certainly help.

On a Voron 0 the heated bed alone dumps 60w of heat into the chamber during warmup in addition to the heat from the hotend.  Of course both the bed and hotend have their power reduced when they attain the target temperature while this heater could be controlled separately..

I see one potential weakness in the design:   Hotends are designed specifically to prevent heat from the heater block from migrating to the heatsink, while here you would want to maximize this effect.  Perhaps a solid brass or copper bolt could replace the heatbreak? As the V6 has an uncommon 7mm thread in the heatsink, perhaps an older V5 type heatsink with the 6mm thread (same as the heater block) could be used with a brass 6mm bolt.

The next question would be if the heatsink could dissipate 40w of heat without melting the housing... it was only meant to dissipate the heat that creeps past the heatbreak. Perhaps a smaller heater element should be used. 

And finally, to regulate this could be tricky. You ultimately want to regulate the chamber temperature but running this heater without some kind of sensor on the heater could be disastrous if the fan were to fail. Perhaps a thermal fuse could be attached?

 

Good luck!

I have a few of the same thoughts. It should definitely help but I'm not expecting miracles from adding an extra 40 watts but I'm really interested to see how much of a difference you can get in a small form factor. I picked up a V5 heatsink and am planning on using a normal m6 steel bolt until I can get my hands on a brass one. Should be good to compare the difference. My idea for keeping the housing from melting is to just keep the heater around the 70-80c range. Good idea on the thermal fuse. I'll pick up some ~100C ones to test.

to eliminate the heat brake just adjust the hole (bigger countersunk) to srew the bolt deeper. In the luxus variant use thermal paste between the parts. I managed it with no problems 

I like this idea, might be a bit weak for a chamber heater but it looks perfect for making a DIY filament dryer. I'll try to use it in a small box with a 20W heater set to 50-60 degrees. Also just thought that this would be perfect if combined with a nevermore style desiccant cartridge.

I’m about to start beta testing this in a 350 2.4 I’ll let you know how it works for me.

Awesome!

@HACKandThRash I like that purple, what is it?

On 8/29/2022 at 4:16 PM, ilkali said:

I like this idea, might be a bit weak for a chamber heater but it looks perfect for making a DIY filament dryer. I'll try to use it in a small box with a 20W heater set to 50-60 degrees. Also just thought that this would be perfect if combined with a nevermore style desiccant cartridge.

or something like this? see attached file.....   this is my (not ready) : HEPA_ Active Carbon_Chamber Heater_ Stealth_ Air modifier

Fanny_Pack_heater.7z

It’s polymaker purple abs I also like it 

On 9/5/2022 at 9:52 PM, HACKandThRash said:

I’m about to start beta testing this in a 350 2.4 I’ll let you know how it works for me.

 

Hey, how did this end up going?

had to wait for a new board to start testing just got it all geared up today ill let you know but it is looking promising so far

So I’ve been testing this for almost a week and my chamber temps are around 40-43c compared to the 28-30c without it I think it is doing alright for being such a little guy had a time setting the config because I’m not really that great with the coding but I’m running the heater block at 120 not sure if I could raise that temperature safely or not. 

######################
### Chamber Heater ###
######################

[heater_generic chamber_heater]
heater_pin: PA2
sensor_type: Generic 3950
sensor_pin: PF4
control: watermark
max_power: 0.7
min_temp: 0
max_temp: 270

[verify_heater chamber_heater]
max_error: 900
check_gain_time:900
hysteresis: 5
heating_gain: 2

##########################
### Chamber Heater Fan ###
##########################

[heater_fan chamber_heater_fan]
pin: PD13
max_power: 1.0
heater: chamber_heater
heater_temp: 50.0

#############################
### Enclosure Temperature ###
#############################

[thermistor chamber_thermistor]
temperature1: 25
resistance1: 10000
beta: 3950

[temperature_sensor enclosure_temp]
sensor_type: Generic 3950
sensor_pin: PF6
min_temp: 0
max_temp: 80

Nice! Did not expect such a difference. It was actually a good idea. Hehe. Thanks for sharing! How big is your printer? 

It’s a 350 

Wouldn't it work better if one would get rid of the heating block and heatbreak? Then just put the heater directly into the heatsink (where the heatbreak was screwed before).

8 minutes ago, Szafran said:

Wouldn't it work better if one would get rid of the heating block and heatbreak? Then just put the heater directly into the heatsink (where the heatbreak was screwed before).

You would still need a place to put the thermistor. You could drill a hole in the fins to fit it into but I would think it would read low because of the air blowing on it. I believe that someone on a discord I'm in set it up with the heater directly in the heatsink and put a bead thermistor in the groove mount end. I don't think he's reported back yet though.

10 hours ago, Szafran said:

Wouldn't it work better if one would get rid of the heating block and heatbreak? Then just put the heater directly into the heatsink (where the heatbreak was screwed before).

There should be no heatbreak. The aluminium body need to touch the copper body directly. Using thermopaste is recommended because after many cycles you can get ab air gap that insulates.

Nice idea. Thanks for sharing. Obviously needs to be tested with caution. I found it's a good idea to do a PID calibration for the chamber heater hotend. I also needed to add a fan speed setting to the fan config to drop it down slightly - was making it hard for the hotend to get to temperate. Seems to be working, but not sure what are the temperature limits once the heatsink is up to temperature yet. Will keep testing.

By the way, there is a heatset insert hole (fan mount) missing in your model. Also, there's an extra internal heatset hole opposite a blank wall - not sure why that's there. Lastly, what was your mounting plan please? Heatset inserts externally, but what are these clamping to?

15 hours ago, axg20202 said:

Nice idea. Thanks for sharing. Obviously needs to be tested with caution. I found it's a good idea to do a PID calibration for the chamber heater hotend. I also needed to add a fan speed setting to the fan config to drop it down slightly - was making it hard for the hotend to get to temperate. Seems to be working, but not sure what are the temperature limits once the heatsink is up to temperature yet. Will keep testing.

By the way, there is a heatset insert hole (fan mount) missing in your model. Also, there's an extra internal heatset hole opposite a blank wall - not sure why that's there. Lastly, what was your mounting plan please? Heatset inserts externally, but what are these clamping to?

Thanks for your work and comments.  To be honest I did not found a solution for mounting. If you have an idea I could model it with cad...I am super fast in modeling

Probably just needs a 20mm wide stem with a single M5 hole at the top and two m3 recessed holes for cap screws that line up with your model. Like this....to mount it in the rear corner pushing air upwards.

Side 2020 mount.stl

17 hours ago, axg20202 said:

Probably just needs a 20mm wide stem with a single M5 hole at the top and two m3 recessed holes for cap screws that line up with your model. Like this....to mount it in the rear corner pushing air upwards.

Side 2020 mount.stl 95.79 kB · 3 downloads

this could work 

V6 Heater vertikal.x_t