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VORON 2.4_350_RAPIDO HF_FYSETC KIT_PURPLE (cause it deserves it)


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Hi, I'm starting my journey in the build process.

What will the purpose of this printer for start :

I'm producing litophanes on 4 printers (well, 3 actully, the 4th is under modification :D) These litophanes take a hell of time to be printed (3 to 4 days for the biggest 20cm diameter ones) So I want to speed up a little bit the process without loosing quality.

Second purpose, I'm also doing maps of the moon 600x450 mm. having a bigger plate will enhance quality ( less joints to fill !)



I baught a FYSETC kit : https://fr.aliexpress.com/item/1005004544503501.html?spm=a2g0o.order_detail.order_detail_item.4.73d67d56WGdZP9&gatewayAdapt=glo2fra

Purple she will be 🙂 (ship from spain, 4 days delivery to France)

I jumped on this kit before knowing that FYSETC have had a ... peculiar behavior respect to the VORON project and team. sorry for that. I was looking tat LDO kit but 500€ difference is a HUGE gap (30% more whaaaaat ?!)

I will use a rapido HF hotend as several people adised me, Klipper (never used it but having a VORON without klipper is like having a Ferrari without fuel no ?)

I'm focusing on the preparation now : What to print, how much filament, how to organize the mess.

here's how I proceeded :

Download the stl on the github https://github.com/VoronDesign/Voron-2/releases/tag/V2.4r2

There is a shit load (sorry, language...) of pieces to print right now I see that I will need 242 hours of printing and 1.8kg of ABS. 
I have so decided to print EVERYTHING (or change my mind) in same ABS color : Purple (https://www.amazon.fr/gp/product/B01AE9EQJ2/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o02_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1)

I have created a google sheet to have more visibility :


This is 19 plates, placed in 19 plastic bags to get things easier

I have 2 prusa MK3S, it will be a full week of printing. (if everything goes well my dear, if everything goes well...)


I havn't started to print, I need to finish a prusa box before... (https://www.printer-box.com/fr/)

I will have to clean and treat the linear rails also as per this video from Alex Kenis :


I have alrerady treated linear rails for my "ender3", unmounting the carriage is NOT simple and I don't do it anymore. So here's my process:

- wash linear rails + carriage with Alccol isopropyl 99%

- flush the carriage with WD 40 (flush in the little hole of the carriage)

- apply grease  (SUPER LUBE : https://www.amazon.fr/Super-Lube-21030-Synthetic-Grease/dp/B000XBH9HI) on linear rails and in the ball way of the carriage





- Right now I think it's a huge project to print, I can't stop thinking I'm printing to much pieces. Of course it's much more than the PIF programs gives you, I think maybe people prints just the necessary parts then print the rest on the Voron itself but it should be a pain to rebuild everything no ? 


- I'm also thinking to several stuff : I'm not an inexperienced maker, and I will go for taptaptap stuff and ADXL345. Several people told me to start basic and upgrdade AFTER. isn't it a pain to modifiy AFTER when you know you will  go for a mod ?




Here's the link to my Voron printed part check list :


I'm updating this version along the way. when I see pieces that are no longer in the official STl repository, I remove it. 



Edited by Catlord
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  • Catlord changed the title to VORON 2.4_350_RAPIDO HF_FYSETC KIT_PURPLE (cause it deserves it)

Thanks for starting a build diary on this.

Yes, we usually advise to build stock and mod later. Some mods are fairly simple and not a big deal to build in. I have not built my Tap yet, so cannot comment with experience on it, but it does seem a fairly simple change even though it's supposed to be an advanced level mod.

For your box, a cardboard box will do fine. I printed my entire Trident on my Prusa Mini and put the box it shipped in over it. The only issues I had was the bigger pieces (feet, skirts) warping. Some glue stick & brims resolved that.

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Welcome and looking forward to the build.

3 hours ago, Catlord said:

I can't stop thinking I'm printing to much pieces

It does seem a lot but doing it the way you are will serve you well - placing tham in bags and marking the bags works very well. 

The spreadsheet is a good idea and there are interactive sheets on the forum that makes life easier. See this thread:

3 hours ago, Catlord said:

isn't it a pain to modifiy AFTER when you know you will  go for a mod ?

I personally find it easier incorporating the mods I want to do in the printer. Saves disassembling the darn thing after the build. I guess there are arguments for both approaches. If you have a good printer, which you have, to print the mods, then it won't be a problem.

Happy printing and welcome again.

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Great starting point and I like your rationale!

On 12/20/2022 at 4:19 PM, Catlord said:

Right now I think it's a huge project to print, I can't stop thinking I'm printing to much pieces

I would say "you're probably not" 😉 If you can print all the bits you need (like the non-structural parts) then you might as well do it. It'll take some of the pressure off getting getting the Voron up and running (you'll have plenty to do tuning it in). The other reason you won't be prinitng too much is - you always need spares. The PIF programme is fantastic but  you get one set so there's not room for error (muffing up putting in heat-inserts and generally destroying things by accident). If you can print stuff yourself and any sensible spares than all the better.

I would suggest having a look at the Ellis Tuning Guide the guide is generally applicable to all printers not just getting your Voron tuned in (granted some bits are Klipper focussed). I would also suggest trying some of the Voron test prints as they are useful to make sure what you are producing will be good-enough.


On 12/20/2022 at 4:19 PM, Catlord said:

Several people told me to start basic and upgrdade AFTER.

I would agree with @mvdveer since you're an experienced maker (might be different if you were a novice then I would say build stock). From a systems design view point it is always better ("cheaper" and "easier") to add the features you want to include from the get-go rather than trying to retro-fit them later. To be blunt it's a right royal PITA having to disassemble something to add a feature (or fix something 😉 ). I would say, as long as you're sensible and pragmatic, just add your desired mods from the go.

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First :

the Excel sheet To tick printed pièces is MANDTORY.

I ran into a big warping problem despite a closed enclosure. so i lost count of the printed pieces, have to redo plates ans so on.

SO, the excel sheet helps A LOT.

i organised my printed part in plastic boxes (i have tons of them empty).As you can see, i just started to print...

about my warping problem : 2 plates perfectly printed then... warp. don't know why 😕

I print at 250°c, bed is 100°c, on buildtak.

I will try the ABS juice (ABS piece dissolved in aceton, then brush plate with the mixture before print) then skirt around pieces if this doesn't work.






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