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Voron Adjacent Modding Journey


atrushing

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5 hours ago, Penatr8tor said:

I'm not really looking forward to ripping my 2.4 apart but.

I can totally sympathise, perhaps consider another 2.4.....it'll be so much easier and we'll get another build diary! You know it makes sense........

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29 minutes ago, smirk said:

I can totally sympathise, perhaps consider another 2.4.....it'll be so much easier and we'll get another build diary! You know it makes sense........

No... Unfortunately it needs to be done. The modding gods have deemed it so and have already cast me into the pit of another upgrade and NOOOOOoooooooooooooooooooooo......... splat.

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2 minutes ago, Penatr8tor said:

The modding gods have deemed it so and have already cast me into the pit of another upgrade

They are so cruel - I know this from experience - and they never seem to stop interfering

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Well, I have managed to incorporate the Z-axis belt connection into the X-axis motor mount. I also moved the X-axis endstop from the toolhead to the motor mount because I don't like it rattling while the printer is doing its thing. While I was at it I routed the wires through the mount to keep things cleaner.

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I also had to make additional clearance for the X-plate since I moved the Z-axis linear rail over by 30mm. One change leads to another.. and another.. ..

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Now I just have to wait for some M5x10 flat head screws to arrive because the socket head screws that RatRig uses tend to get in the way.

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I guess that gives me more time to work on modeling my other mods.

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I came up with a decent method of tramming the X-axis. It uses a two-part tool that allows you to rotate the gantry about the center of the Z-axis MGN15 carriage.

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You bolt it on in place of the X-motor-cage and it allows you to tighten M3x16 screws or M3 grub screws on opposing corners while the gantry is barely snug in order to lift the cantilevered end until the axis is level. Then start tightening the screws to the MGN15 carriage while making sure the axis remains in tram.

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This does require that you drill 4mm access holes in the X-axis 2020 rail for the M3 screws of the MGN carriage.

Unfortunately, I get to go through this process again after the M5x10 flat-head screws that I'm waiting for come in..

X-axis_tramming_tool_TOP.stl X-axis_tramming_tool_BOTTOM.stl

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2 hours ago, atrushing said:

Then start tightening the screws to the MGN15 carriage while making sure the axis remains in tram.

Your status has just been elevated to MODKING. Love the designs, as it is something I cannot do thus appreciate the thought and effort in designing something as functional as this.

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4 hours ago, atrushing said:

...until the axis is level.

Do you mean parallel to the bed? Why not use two 123 blocks? I also ran into one thing that I think I can fix and that is the the bed was out more than the clearance in the mounting holes on the T shaped plate would let me. I think I might need to loosen the Z rail mounting screws. Hmmmm I need to think about this. 

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5 hours ago, Penatr8tor said:

Do you mean parallel to the bed?

Yes, that is more accurate then 'level'.

5 hours ago, Penatr8tor said:

Why not use two 123 blocks?

In one of the many videos I watched researching this build, they measured (or at least mentioned) how much the weight of the toolhead drops the end of the X-axis when at the extremity of its travel. Tramming the gantry this time was just to verify the tool. When I do it again I will use the nozzle and the paper tension test to account for all aspects of X-axis travel to tram the complete system as installed. I still need to design an adjustable height stop for Z travel so that I can accurately move the nozzle relative to the bed.

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6 hours ago, Penatr8tor said:

I also ran into one thing that I think I can fix and that is the the bed was out more than the clearance in the mounting holes on the T shaped plate would let me.

Using this method I was able to get over 1mm past tram before realizing I was reading the measurements backwards and had to back off the set screws.

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Well, @atrushing... Your machine will be setup much more accurately than mine and mine has been pounding out prints of impressive quality one after another for the last week.

I'm printing all of the parts for a modded electronics enclosure. It's the Squirrelbrain one that sits under the printer on Printables.

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Edited by Penatr8tor
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Now I am coming to the part of the build that I've been dreading.

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The unique feature of what I am calling for now the HexRAT extruder (due to my initials and not RatRig) is that it can incorporate an ERCF sensor and/or a filament run-out sensor. This is using the magnet/washer/hall-sensor combination, but the specified hall-sensor (AH3364Q-P-B) is not readily available so I am designing around the much more common A3144 sensor. This requires a 10K resistor between 5V and signal which can be done the hard way as shown or at the controller end of the wire.

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I am in the process of adjusting the magnet size and distance from the washer to achieve reliable filament detection based on the sensitivity of the A3144.

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And then, of course, testing -> adjustment -> testing -> adjustment ...

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3 hours ago, smirk said:

Wow! That testing and adjustment cycle sounds like it's going to be hellish!

Fortunately, it only took three iterations. It took more than that just to get the internal geometry to print well without supports! The ERCF hall effect sensor is pinched in place with a M3x6 grub screw.

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I took a little break from the extruder and finished a couple easy parts.

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I have got the extruder assembled and installed. The filament hall sensor is pinched in place by an M3x3 grub screw.

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A short piece of filament (red) makes sure the washer can never escape its slot.

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The front cover is secured with a pair of M3x25 BHCS and the motor is mounted with two M3x8 SHCS.

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The idler latch is installed with a M3x16 BHCS and the filament release lever with a M3x8 BHCS.

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The combined weight of my toolhead is 232 grams.

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And this is a good stopping point for today, especially since I forgot the PTFE tube between the hotend and the extruder.

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Edited by atrushing
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I fixed yesterday's mistake and got the X and Z belts installed and tensioned. I have run the wiring back to a lovely rat's nest that I'll need to manage once I get the base for the controller designed and printed. The base will also hold the KeyBak as well as a pulley reduction system to gain more lifting tension. The 1kg X-axis is a little too heavy for the KeyBak to manage on its own.

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I am also waiting for a lower profile differential bed probe to arrive on the slow-boat so I will have three more wires to route from the toohead to the electronics bay.

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To paraphrase one of my favorite movies; This RatRig saga is far from over..

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