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Voron Adjacent Modding Journey


atrushing

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Q: How many printers do I need?
A: YES

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I am starting my V-Minion with the Mechanical Kit and sourcing the rest from my stash and online as needed. This might be a slow build since I am designing as I go. Everything came well packed with some great surface finishes on the aluminum pieces.

Compared to a V0.1, it is crazy how small the parts count is for this build. If I get around to designing an enclosure things might balance out a little.

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Looking forward to following this As you said, not many parts there but looks good quality. Love the 1-2-3 blocks. Asked the wife for a set of those for Xmas.

Hope you don't have to use the mallet too much 😁

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It'll be good to see how you get on with that - I ordered the Manta-8P with CB1 (and the RP4 adaptor as well....and other stuff) mainly cause I could and I was curious about a PI alternative and also interested in perhaps reducing the wiring a bit more with a more integrated set up.

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This is proving to be a fun build. A few bits (like installing the Y axis 3060 profile) are a little awkward or finicky but it is a well thought out design. It also has some serious heft!

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I have skipped a few steps in the guide that I have to finish designing and I am waiting on the bed heater before I can complete the build plate assembly.

To those familiar with the V-Minion design, it may look like there is something wrong with the Z axis linear rail, but that is intentional. My next update will further deviate from the base design and may be a little shocking..

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15 minutes ago, smirk said:

It'll be good to see how you get on with that - I ordered the Manta-8P with CB1

I am hoping that the YouTube reviews of the CB1 its and accessories were legitimate and not brushing over difficulties with the Klipper install. It will be very nice to have a reliable Pi alternative!

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@atrushing Your progress reminds me of my build. It doesn't take long to get the core frame assembled.

Did you print up some rail guides? I assume yes but maybe you used that mallet. 😁 Nice 123 block too. All of these kits can be trued up using a square but the 123 blocks are so handy. A thousand uses. 👍

Looking forward to seeing what you do with the Z and shortened X extrusion. Strictly from a mechanical perspective, having the rail mounted in one groove versus the other won't adversely affect performance. It actually might even help at the print head is not cantilevered out as far. 

Also looking forward to seeing how well the manta performs. It looks like, with the scarcity of R-Pi's, that it might be the way things will go in the 3D printing world future.

Anyways... looking forward to seeing your progress. Looks Really nice so far.

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15 hours ago, atrushing said:

I am hoping that the YouTube reviews of the CB1 its and accessories were legitimate and not brushing over difficulties with the Klipper install. It will be very nice to have a reliable Pi alternative!

I hope it goes smoothly and will be interested to hear your experience. Nero recently struggled with the Manta+CB1 combo. Wifi simply would not work. He got frustrated with it and pitched the CB1 in favor of a CM1 a viewer sent him. That just worked.

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23 minutes ago, Penatr8tor said:

It actually might even help at the print head is not cantilevered out as far.

That is the main purpose of this change. A 250mm cantilever versus the stock 280mm is about 12% more rigid! There is a little more to come from moving the Z-axis rail but I'm still working on that part of the design.

Yeah, the bulk of the assembly went quickly! Now I have to do a lot of modeling before I can make much more progress. I might go back with some printed rail guides later but I have the rails true within 0.1mm over 250mm just using my digital calipers.

I did use the mallet once to get one of the captured hex nuts seated in its pocket. It is pretty easy to achieve fine control with it when you choke up on the handle and it's not as heavy as it looks.

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3 hours ago, atrushing said:

I'm pretty sure I know what I'm doing!

Famous last words...

I found something that I overlooked but, of course, after making the cut. The connection plate between the 2020 profile and the MGN15 carriage is asymmetrical for a reason: To give access to screw the 2020 profile on from the back side.

Stock on top and mine on the bottom..

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If I left the extrusion 7mm longer then I could have flipped the plate over without any issues. Instead I needed to drill access holes in the profile to access the screws for the MGN15 carriage.

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2 minutes ago, atrushing said:

I will give it a shot. I can also try a WiFi USB dongle or even hard wire it with ethernet if necessary.

A lot of times WIFI problems aren't with the devices themselves but the router you're using. I was using an old WIFI-5 router a few months back, it wasn't a cheap one either, but I kept having problems with my phone not getting a good signal and I could forget about getting a Pi4B to connect reliably. I actually went out of my way to get some keystone inserts for WIFI and ethernet so I could plug my 2.4 into ethernet directly. Fast forward to today and I now have a new Netgear Nighthawk WIFI-6 router and WOW! Everything works like a charm.

So... I feel the likelihood the Nero3D has janky WIFI is more likely than the WIFI implementation on the CB1. Just my 2 cents, I could be wrong. 

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Just now, Penatr8tor said:

I feel the likelihood the Nero3D has janky WIFI is more likely

I will keep this in mind if I need to troubleshoot. I am guessing that a few of his other printers are connected to his WiFi so maybe they are just more backwards compatible with WiFi standards.

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1 minute ago, atrushing said:

Famous last words...

Hahaha, Not a problem really. There's a lot of room for successful modifications.

So, I took a top down look at my printer and you're going to have to modify the Z stepper mount. It's not just an easy, I'll mount it on the next rail solution. You'll need to provide clearance for the 90 degree plate and potentially other things.

If you need any modeling help, let me know. People say I'm pretty good, but who listens to people anyway. 🤣

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Ahhhh So you're going to use a pancake stepper with gear reduction. That motor is really going to be working when probing / homing. When printing you'll have better accuracy. So looks like a pretty good trade off. 

It will be interesting to see what you come up with.

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11 minutes ago, Penatr8tor said:

That motor is really going to be working when probing / homing.

I weighed most of the components that it will have to lift and it comes out about 1kg! I am using a 5:1 ratio with the gears and a 16 tooth pulley so it comes out to 6.4mm travel per revolution of the stepper. If I used an 8 tooth stepper i could gain another 25% torque advantage.

Plus I am employing a secret weapon against gravity 🤔

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