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Keep the mods coming - Boxed-Tri-V0


mvdveer

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18 minutes ago, mvdveer said:

First time EVER

You're a better (careful) man than me. I've lost count of all the magic black smoke that I've allowed to escape, and yup every time "hurts" especially when the inner you goes "I told you that was going to happen, did you listen to me??!"

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Ooooohhhhhh.... you ordered 5 right?? tell me you ordered 5...

And I ordered 300mm frame parts, since I will convert to BoxZero or whatever its called, no more tophat...

Someone could have told me I needed the XL (15mm) version of the beams, .. hahahaha! 

I got 4 of this very CUTE small beams by post... made me wonder.. could I build a Voron -1 or so? super mini...

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Well it is printing after a long troubleshooting session, rebuilding, rewiring, recrimping, rethinking, regressing, rehoming - you get the drift. Installed the octopus board and everything seemed to be going good. STEPPER_BUZ worked as expected, QUERY_ENSTOPS work as expected.

Safely homed

Z_TILT_CALIBRATE worked like expected.

BED_MESH_CALIBRATE: Started getting errors - Endstop triggered prior to movement. Now this sounds familiar - my reason I swapped out the boards.  Eventually got a bed mesh. 

Extruder Rotation Distance calibrated

Time for a test cube - NOT

X-Stop stayed TRIGGERED, could not home X.

After a lot of choice GOM words, and hours of wasted time, it finally dawned - maybe not a Klipper issue - maybe electronics.

Traced the fault to a short on the Toolhead PCB. (Maybe @Buurman, you had something with your original thought of too many electronics....)

It is now where it belongs - in the bin!

 

image.thumb.jpeg.ca5f5654931ccf07b317f0d904976a37.jpeg

 

Rewired the toolhead, started all the tests and finally got a test tube printed.

 

image.thumb.jpeg.f7a1c38b996da45e8617334c8f5fc57b.jpeg

 

Oh, that little malformed cube was because I used 16 tooth steppers on a GT2 belt but did not change rotation distance to compensate for that 😒

Now for finishing the build - adding a chamber temperature sensor, some LED's for the chamber, tidying up wiring and then opening up Andrew Ellis Print Tuning .

 

 

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6 hours ago, mvdveer said:

Rewired the toolhead, started all the tests and finally got a test tube printed.

You've had a fun journey! Guess it goes to prove there's no such thing as a straight forward build or a "it just works scenario" (well not without a huge amount of work).

Just curious, it might be the scale of your enormously tall machine, but the heated bed looks really....slim!?

7 hours ago, mvdveer said:

It is now where it belongs - in the bin!

So how much of your spares stock-pile has this thing burnt through? That's two E3 minis and one toolhead PCB so far?

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8 minutes ago, smirk said:

but the heated bed looks really....slim!?

It is, as I set out to do, tried to build this from spares - this is what I had - replacement bed on order.

 

9 minutes ago, smirk said:

So how much of your spares stock-pile has this thing burnt through?

One Octopus pro board through my own stupidity

 

10 minutes ago, smirk said:

That's two E3 minis and one toolhead PCB

E3mini still operational. Will they ever be used - Don't think so unless I want to revive my Ender 3. However the Voron bug is too strong. 

The toolhead PCB was the cause of all the headaches all along

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8 hours ago, mvdveer said:

After a lot of choice GOM words,

Gom machine, gom boat, shewing gom, gom electronics, gom this, gom that 😂

yeah I’m sometimes jealous of of al the fancy pcb boards but still I’m sticking to direct wiring, maybe a bus connector in the future since I do understand that.

these board are just so cheaply made and I read nothing else then “fried my pcb, or something”.

Ah, there is no right or wrong, just learn to deal with your choices 😂😂

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2 minutes ago, Buurman said:

I am not a big fan of the new test, I liked the lines test. The new arrow shaped one is way more open to error. 
but sure I believe he has his reasons.

I think only time will tell

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1 hour ago, Buurman said:

fancy pcb boards

Starting to have my doubts. Makes it easy to remove the toolhead, but really - how often do we need to change toolhead?

With the Revo Voron eco system, it is so easy changing nozzles and it is sufficient for what I want to do. I do have 4 Canbus boards lying around - just cannot help myself - but then it is Xmas

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LOL, now you're all making me nervous. I have a nice set of purple(!) hartk 2-piece tool head boards waiting for me to install. I also grabbed--perhaps prematurely--the LDO electronics bay breakout board. More wire on order. I was planning on rewiring the gantry when I had it all torn apart for the Tap update. I guess I can hit the boards with the multimeter to verify everything is connecting to where I expect...

I am staying well away from CANbus for now. I'm seeing too many very complex struggles to want to open that barrel of worms.

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9 hours ago, Buurman said:

I am not a big fan of the new test, I liked the lines test. The new arrow shaped one is way more open to error. 
but sure I believe he has his reasons.

S'funny battling through the Ellis tuning guide and I prefer the arrows to the old lines (which I could never get working well). Guess horses for courses. 🏇

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8 hours ago, mvdveer said:

Starting to have my doubts. Makes it easy to remove the toolhead, but really - how often do we need to change toolhead?

Well....if you're not doing any mods or rebuilding or upgrading printers then probably never........unless.......😉

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1 hour ago, smirk said:

Well....if you're not doing any mods or rebuilding or upgrading printers then probably never........unless.....

Come on say it unless.....     IT IS ME! 🤣

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5 hours ago, claudermilk said:

I have a nice set of purple(!) hartk 2-piece tool head boards

I'm sure you should be fine. All the other toolbars - genuine Hartk toolhead and breakout boards work well. The one I had for this V0 was a left over board that was ordered as a "just in case" PCB for the previous build. Ordered through Aliexpress from an unknown store - came unbranded and looked CHEAP - which it was. Lesson learned. Sometimes I just don't take my own advice.

Buy cheap - Pay more! So don't do it

5 hours ago, claudermilk said:

I am staying well away from CANbus for now

Tried it on the V2.4 build - just too many headaches, so like you - staying clear of it for now

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17 hours ago, mvdveer said:

I'm sure you should be fine. All the other toolbars - genuine Hartk toolhead and breakout boards work well. The one I had for this V0 was a left over board that was ordered as a "just in case" PCB for the previous build. Ordered through Aliexpress from an unknown store - came unbranded and looked CHEAP - which it was. Lesson learned. Sometimes I just don't take my own advice.

Buy cheap - Pay more! So don't do it

Tried it on the V2.4 build - just too many headaches, so like you - staying clear of it for now

Cool. I just need to figure out exactly what connections to make. 

My envisioned setup will be hartk PCB on SB -> LDO Breakout -> Octopus.

Most of them seem straighword-ish. It's mainly the LEDs & 5V I'm currently a bit confused on at the LDO PCB end. I'm also now starting to strongly consider the ERCF-style filament sensor in the toolhead instead of the RefillPlease one I have on the back of the printer now that I've found there are mods for that SB part to incorporate one; so that adds the Aux line.

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6 hours ago, claudermilk said:

It's mainly the LEDs & 5V I'm currently

The V0 PCB did not have a 5V or LED input, thus had to run wires to the Octopus. Funnily, the breakout board that came with it had all sorts of connectors fitted. (5V and LED included) 

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Upon doing further research, I'm thinking I might punt and buy the LDO harness. Reading further on hartk's Github it sounds like that just works. I'll need to set a fan to 5V and attach that to the CT input, which works fie for me as my chamber thermistor isn't on my tool head. Then simply run the LEDs and possible filament sensor separately. But enough hijacking your thread.

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5 hours ago, claudermilk said:

Upon doing further research, I'm thinking I might punt and buy the LDO harness. Reading further on hartk's Github it sounds like that just works. I'll need to set a fan to 5V and attach that to the CT input, which works fie for me as my chamber thermistor isn't on my tool head. Then simply run the LEDs and possible filament sensor separately. But enough hijacking your thread.

Can't fault that thinking. AS said - learned my lesson by trying to save a few bucks. 

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Build is complete.

image.thumb.jpeg.65a0975ac83883e1f65a54854894510c.jpeg

 

Tuning done as per Andrew Ellis guide - first layer looking good.

 

 

 

Happy with how it is printing.

image.thumb.jpeg.fb2ca3d98352ee590dc5816db90de1fe.jpeg

 

Thanks for following along.

 

Next up - Trident 250mm in Grey and Silver,  Frombot kit with Voron TAP.

 

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  • Voron FTW! 2
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1 hour ago, mvdveer said:

Next up - Trident 250mm in Grey and Silver,  Frombot kit with Voron TAP.

Hoorah! It's not quite an ultramarathon but not far off: 7 vorons in 7 weeks. (As I sit here looking at the back of my gutted V0)

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5 hours ago, mvdveer said:

Build is complete.

Dude, I absolutely love the way it looks, such good choices, ok, pink is a bold step, but I love it!
Maybe my 2 year old daughter is having influence on me somehow... 😉

But... have to rebuild mine now... I cant life with it, knowing how it could be.. so.. thanks!! f*ckin DutchAussies... 😛 

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