Best extruder upgrade for Stealthburner on a 2.4r2? Does LGX lite have a mount that accepts the 2 part hark2 PCB?

[Poisson]

3 hours ago, salbang said:

Ah. I though the discussion was on Eytecz's mod. BTW, there is an optional body parts at

https://github.com/Ramalama2/Voron-2-Mods/tree/main/SB_LGXlitePCB/Option_without_LGXlite-FanPCB

, which seems to be intended for being used with the normal two piece pcb.

I noticed this as well, a replacement stealthburner face that looks like it moves the position of the default hartk fan PCB to be where it is supposed to be. I may give this a try.

[Poisson]

Just reporting back, I printed out the optional stealthburner faceplate and it does in fact move the stock hartk fan PCB where it needs to be to match up to the connector. I still had to trim some plastic off of the front mount for the extruder as the connector from the main PCB that sits through it was too tight to one side, and trimming plastic was the only way to get the 2 PCBs to plug into each other.

I ran into a LOT of other issues with this, mainly with trying to get a smooth filament path. Eventually I was able to get everything exactly right and am currently printing a voron cube as a test, it seems to be going well but we'll see how it looks when it is done.

If everything goes well I'll try to report back on long-term use of this setup.

The sad thing is, I have to redo this entire thing soon for TAP.

Edited December 29, 2022 by Poisson

[mvdveer]

1 hour ago, Poisson said:

The sad thing is, I have to redo this entire thing soon for TAP.

It will be worth it, Tap is great. Just fitted my 2.4r2 with it and results are pretty good.

[salbang]

3 hours ago, Poisson said:

Just reporting back, I printed out the optional stealthburner faceplate and it does in fact move the stock hartk PCB where it needs to be to match up to the connector. I still had to trim some plastic off of the front mount for the extruder as the connector from the main PCB that sits through it was too tight to one side, and tirmming plastic was the only way to get the 2 PCBs to plug into each other.

I ran into a LOT of other issues with this, mainly with trying to get a smooth filament path. Eventually I was able to get everything exactly right and am currently printing a voron cube as a test, it seems to be going well but we'll see how it looks when it is done.

If everything goes well I'll try to report back on long-term use of this setup.

The sad thing is, I have to redo this entire thing soon for TAP.

Thanks for the update. Hope everything goes well with the setup and your upgrade for TAP.

[Poisson]

I'm going to be building an ERCF and wanted to have the toolhead filament sensor for this setup. Out of the two mods here only the Eytecz mod (for the single hartk PCB) has the hall effect toolhead filament sensor mount built in. I printed it out to see what it looked like, and I think it can potentially be adapted for use with the 2 part hartk PCB setup. Going to be doing some testing in the coming days.

[claudermilk]

I'm just now starting to print an entire new SB including CW2 for my upcoming mods. I'm going to use the David Relich filament sensor one. That places a standard switch just before the extruder gears. Similar to the RefillPlease mod I already have, just moving to the other end of the long Bowden run. I should be able to use the ERCF filament sensor inputs on the 2-piece hartk PCB.

[Poisson]

1 hour ago, claudermilk said:

I'm just now starting to print an entire new SB including CW2 for my upcoming mods. I'm going to use the David Relich filament sensor one. That places a standard switch just before the extruder gears. Similar to the RefillPlease mod I already have, just moving to the other end of the long Bowden run. I should be able to use the ERCF filament sensor inputs on the 2-piece hartk PCB.

I do wish there was also a microswitch sensor version available for use with the LGX lite, but I don't think there is. General consensus is that microswitches are better than hall effect.

[ajscheid]

3 hours ago, Poisson said:

I do wish there was also a microswitch sensor version available for use with the LGX lite, but I don't think there is. General consensus is that microswitches are better than hall effect.

ERCF is nowadays running sensorless; no need for any sensor at all.

I have it running with sensorless software since it came out and never looked back. Check the sensorless branch on GitHub.

[Poisson]

It took me all day, but I have successfully got the hall effect toolhead sensor working. It took so much work including diagnosing my hartk PCB shorting on a mounting screw.

Here's roughly what I used to make this happen with the LGX lite:

From Eytecz I used: 

https://github.com/Eytecz/LGX_Lite_Stealthburner_CW2_style_mount/blob/main/LGX_Lite_Stealthburner_ERCF_PCB/STL/Cable_cover_LGX_Lite_Stealthburner_PCB_Released_rev01.stl

A modified https://github.com/Eytecz/LGX_Lite_Stealthburner_CW2_style_mount/blob/main/LGX_Lite_Stealthburner_ERCF_PCB/STL/Front_body_LGX_Lite_Stealthburner_ERCF_PCB_Released_rev01.stl that I literally eyeball modified from his stp file, but still had to trim some plastic with snippers. I suppose I could share my STL for this  here it is:

https://github.com/Eytecz/LGX_Lite_Stealthburner_CW2_style_mount/blob/main/LGX_Lite_Stealthburner_ERCF_PCB/STL/Rear_body_LGX_Lite_Stealthburner_ERCF_Released_rev01.stl

From Ramalama2 I used:

One of these https://github.com/Ramalama2/Voron-2-Mods/blob/main/SB_LGXlitePCB/STL/PCB_Mount_Default.stl or https://github.com/Ramalama2/Voron-2-Mods/blob/main/SB_LGXlitePCB/STL/PCB_Mount_Offset_0.6mm.stl I can't remember which one anymore! Beware! The middle screw that holds this onto the LGX Lite body needs to sink all the way into the plastic, and I had to remove plastic in the screw hole to make it a slightly larger diameter to get that to happen. Otherwise your PCB can easily short against this screw! a FHCS screw of the correct length could possibly get around this, but the smallest head screws I had that were long enough were BHCS. Don't even think about a SHCS here! I also trimmed the component leads at the back side of the PCB at multiple locations, including where there are above this screw.

https://github.com/Ramalama2/Voron-2-Mods/blob/main/SB_LGXlitePCB/Option_without_LGXlite-FanPCB/STL/Stealthburner_Body_PCB.zip

For the optional Stealthburner face I had to not screw on the top screw of the fan PCB, closest to the connector. This allowed that side of the PCB to push upwards higher and meet the connector to plug into the main PCB. There looks like there may be enough plastic to add a screw hole in the correct spot for this, but honestly the fan PCB is being held pretty tightly in place when the Stealthburner face is screwed on.

For the hall effect sensor itself I used what was recommended from Eytecz. I actually couldn't find this sensor in stock from any electronics supplier so I ended up buying the kit from DFH that has it, and a magnet, a washer, etc. Basically everything you need. If you're going to buy parts on your own, make sure your washer can be magnetized! The kit did not come with wires, the correct connector for the hartk PCB, nor the correct crimp pins for that connector. Those are all things I already had. The https://www.teamfdm.com/files/file/648-modified-eytecz-front_body_lgx_lite_stealthburner_ercf_pcb/ needed plastic removal to make this work right and after a day of messing with this it took my brain FOREVER to figure out how this sensor / system was supposed to be working so I could diagnose what was wrong. It mostly came down to the washer not being able to move close enough to the magnet for the washer to create a magnetic field. I had to cut out just a little bit of plastic in the washer pocket towards the filament path so the washer could pull closer to the magnet. 

What an adventure.

Edited January 13, 2023 by Poisson

[smirk]

4 hours ago, Poisson said:

What an adventure.

Good write up of your fun, congrats on tracking it down and resolving it!

[Picalo]

I know this is an old thread but I was wondering if the ldo nighthawk PCB would mount to this without any modifications?

 

Thank you