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Best extruder upgrade for Stealthburner on a 2.4r2? Does LGX lite have a mount that accepts the 2 part hark2 PCB?


Poisson

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I know I'm a pretty new builder but I've never been quite satisfied with clockwork2, and I am looking for a better solution. I see the LGX lite come up a lot for this and it seems like a pretty solid system. Is there any mounting bracket for stealthburner that will let it use the 2 part hartk PCB?

Is there a better extruder option than the LGX lite (and preferably also takes the 2 part hartk PCB)?

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25 minutes ago, Poisson said:

I see some things online saying it takes a 20mm motor, and some things saying it takes a 36mm motor.

The Nema 14 pancake steppers have a outside diameter of 36mm and the most common lengths are 17mm and 20mm. So the 36STH20 should be fine. The picture below is from the fermio.xyz page for the LGX-Lite.

2022-11-18-153241_955x1048_scrot.png.44c7df132249438aad50c321d2024371.png

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I am not convinced of LGX Lite; backlash is massive on this extruder, pushing force is less than on the CW2. For me it was a downgrade coming from CW2.

I have returned mine without installing.

The 2 piece SB PCB will not fit the extruder; that said it will also not fit with any other of the Extruder such as orbiter, Sherpa, etc.

I have ordered now the Orbiter V2.0 and a Sherpa Mini to give them a spin. Will mount a ebb36 to the back and not used the 2 piece PCB anymore.

I was quite impressed with the Orbiter V1.5 on my V0.1 with Dragon SF.

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1 hour ago, atrushing said:

Agreed, I have been very happy with my Orbiter 1.5 and a Dragonfly. The Orbiter 2.0 is a very similar design but about 15g lighter and much more compact in the Y axis.

The Orbiter 2.0 does look pretty nice, but I'm stuck on this 2 part hartk for the time being, so it looks like I'm staying with clockwork2 for now. Maybe I will move to canbus sometime.

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Not sure if this helps but I went canbus right away with lgx lite.  It's my first voron build.

I can't say if it's good or not because I came from a very old 3d printer so everything is way better 😄 

However, I've had no issues with extruder so far, using Stealthburner with LGX lite (link several posts above) and Rapido hot end with CHT nozzle. Made an ugly attachment for the BIQU canbus board, wires are naked on the side. Printing ABS at 40mm3 (if I remember correctly, might be 30). My standards are not that high and I have no idea if there is a lot of backlash or not, works for my functional prints. Also switched to running the wires in through the top edge in a umbilical style, I think it puts less pressure on the wires if you don't print tall very often, pretty sure the drag chain killed one of the wires when I was using it.

Canbus is better than running 20 wires in, and even though I've had to replace one wire so far, testing 4 connections is easier than 20. Very occasionally loses sync or whatever though.

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23 hours ago, ajscheid said:

I am not convinced of LGX Lite; backlash is massive on this extruder, pushing force is less than on the CW2. For me it was a downgrade coming from CW2.

I have returned mine without installing.

The 2 piece SB PCB will not fit the extruder; that said it will also not fit with any other of the Extruder such as orbiter, Sherpa, etc.

I have ordered now the Orbiter V2.0 and a Sherpa Mini to give them a spin. Will mount a ebb36 to the back and not used the 2 piece PCB anymore.

I was quite impressed with the Orbiter V1.5 on my V0.1 with Dragon SF.

100% agree. i was working to converting my x axis back to a single mgn9 and was reading the cw2 doesn't support that and would need a different extruder due to how it's mounted and sorta jumped on the lgx lite bandwagon due to it's sleekness. once i got it i did a comparison of the physical characteristics and turns out fully assembled the cw2 ended up being 12 grams lighter than the lgx lite and had no issues fitting on an mgn9 carriage. in hindsight, i should have just build a sherpa mini and would have basically been free repurposing the parts from the cw2.

 

lesson learned i suppose, but it does "look" cool until you put it all together and realize you can't even see it anyway.

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I apologize for hijacking this topic but I have a LGX Stealthburner question that I haven't been able to find an answer to.

The stepper cable connection on the LGX is 6-pin.  The connection on the Stealthburner PCB is 4 pin.  I've ordered some 6-pin to 4-pin stepper motor cables, but will I need to change the pinout at all to make it work?

 

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Been using LGX Lite with Eytecz's mount with ERCF since about April and it works exceedingly well for me.

You might want to look at this: https://github.com/Ramalama2/Voron-2-Mods/tree/main/SB_LGXlitePCB
It's a user mod to adapt Eytecz's mount and also the Fan part of HartK's 2 piece.

Note there are some caveats with regards to Toolhead sensor if you use ERCF - if not, less of an issue.

This might also be relevant if you are ok to modify a few things yourself in CAD:
https://mods.vorondesign.com/detail/V9h4Nb9ZWM41i3dP29WVkw

LgxLiteAssembly.jpg

Edited by Jaans
Inline image not retained - attached it instead.
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26 minutes ago, Jaans said:

Been using LGX Lite with Eytecz's mount with ERCF since about April and it works exceedingly well for me.

You might want to look at this: https://github.com/Ramalama2/Voron-2-Mods/tree/main/SB_LGXlitePCB
It's a user mod to adapt Eytecz's mount and also the Fan part of HartK's 2 piece.

Note there are some caveats with regards to Toolhead sensor if you use ERCF - if not, less of an issue.

This might also be relevant if you are ok to modify a few things yourself in CAD:
https://mods.vorondesign.com/detail/V9h4Nb9ZWM41i3dP29WVkw

LgxLiteAssembly.jpg

ERCF if on my list of projects in the near to moderate future. I've seen mentioned multiple times that people like using the LGX lite with it. Is clockwork2 not good for ERCF?

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It took me a while to get CW2 working OK-ish (throughout the BETA process), but I was never able to get enough pressure for TPU. Their last iteration was aimed at a tighter and more straight filament path to improve on TPU, but I somehow suffered a loss in pushing force. Others seem to have good success with CW2 - for me OK, but not great.

Then with ERCF when you do tip tuning, the LGX Lite is a godsend due to the ease and speed of the flip lever to release the filament (did hundreds of manual loads, inspects, etc. to get my settings dialed in (need lots of patience, trial and error). I definitely have better results with TPU on the LGX Lite and my grip vs. slip is definitely better (could be user error and not a design issue with CW2 though).

The toolhead filament sensor for ERCF on the LGX Lite uses hall effect sensor + washer and it was a little tricky to install just right, but it hasn't skipped a beat once ever since - just solid.

I might consider Orbiter 2.0 down the track, but it's toolhead sensor is a mechanical-ball-on-lever-switch design and with ERCF any friction in the filament path (no matter how little) adds up quickly, especially over long runs (I have a 350 V2) so I need to figure out whether that's going to be better or worse overall. The new ERCF design allows for not having a toolhead sensor, but I'm not sold yet.

Hth

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1 hour ago, Jaans said:

The new ERCF design allows for not having a toolhead sensor, but I'm not sold yet.

You should definitely give it a try; makes extruder selection so much easier.

In my case I loaded new software and forgot; runs flawless since swap (not that it didn’t work with filament sensor).

easy enough to just give it a try as it is only software based and you can easily go back and forward between the 2 version without hardware changes.

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12 hours ago, Jaans said:

Been using LGX Lite with Eytecz's mount with ERCF since about April and it works exceedingly well for me.

You might want to look at this: https://github.com/Ramalama2/Voron-2-Mods/tree/main/SB_LGXlitePCB
It's a user mod to adapt Eytecz's mount and also the Fan part of HartK's 2 piece.

Note there are some caveats with regards to Toolhead sensor if you use ERCF - if not, less of an issue.

This might also be relevant if you are ok to modify a few things yourself in CAD:
https://mods.vorondesign.com/detail/V9h4Nb9ZWM41i3dP29WVkw

LgxLiteAssembly.jpg

quoting this post just for reference to the lgx mount...

 

i have serious doubts of the fitment of the new version of the fan pcb with the dupont pin connectors. perhaps if you soldered the wires directly to the pcb, but the strip in the middle is directly where the led pins are. im not using the breakout board but am using the fan pcb with my own custom wiring to my canbus board and used this one.

even then i had to modify the front stl and build in a "notch" to fit the far right (from the back of the sb perspective) fan connector. again soldering the wires into the board is probably the original intent but i prefer the removable dupont connectors for cleanliness. will post pictures after the holidays if anyone is interested.

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On 11/19/2022 at 9:52 PM, Jaans said:

It took me a while to get CW2 working OK-ish (throughout the BETA process), but I was never able to get enough pressure for TPU. Their last iteration was aimed at a tighter and more straight filament path to improve on TPU, but I somehow suffered a loss in pushing force. Others seem to have good success with CW2 - for me OK, but not great.

Really? I still have the last iteration beta CW2 in my printer and it's just worked with TPU; I was actually surprised at that. The TPU I used was the Cheetah 95A from NinjaTek. I am running the motor at 0.6A after running into skipped step issues at lower settings (started at 0.4A and moved up from there).

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  • 4 weeks later...
On 11/21/2022 at 2:21 AM, dos said:

quoting this post just for reference to the lgx mount...

i have serious doubts of the fitment of the new version of the fan pcb with the dupont pin connectors. perhaps if you soldered the wires directly to the pcb, but the strip in the middle is directly where the led pins are. im not using the breakout board but am using the fan pcb with my own custom wiring to my canbus board and used this one.

even then i had to modify the front stl and build in a "notch" to fit the far right (from the back of the sb perspective) fan connector. again soldering the wires into the board is probably the original intent but i prefer the removable dupont connectors for cleanliness. will post pictures after the holidays if anyone is interested.

Yeap. I am eager to mount two piece pcb with lgx lite. Hope you can share your experience.

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12 hours ago, Poisson said:

I'm actually going to be attempting this today.

Reporting back from trying the https://github.com/Ramalama2/Voron-2-Mods/tree/main/SB_LGXlitePCB mount and the connectors for the 2 PCBs are not lining up at all. I'm not sure if something has changed with the extruder's mounting holes for the PCB or what, but it is WAY off. There's no amount of fudging that will make this fit. Not sure what to to try now.

Edited by Poisson
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13 minutes ago, Poisson said:

Reporting back from trying the https://github.com/Ramalama2/Voron-2-Mods/tree/main/SB_LGXlitePCB mount and the connectors for the 2 PCBs are not lining up at all. I'm not sure if something has changed with the extruder's mounting holes for the PCB or what, but it is WAY off. There's no amount of fudging that will make this fit. Not sure what to to try now.

It does seem like...he has what looks like a custom fan PCB for this to fit right which I did not realize going into it.

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21 hours ago, Poisson said:

It's specifically for the 2 piece, it is a mod of the one piece design by Eytecz.

Ah. I though the discussion was on Eytecz's mod. BTW, there is an optional body parts at

https://github.com/Ramalama2/Voron-2-Mods/tree/main/SB_LGXlitePCB/Option_without_LGXlite-FanPCB

, which seems to be intended for being used with the normal two piece pcb.

Edited by salbang
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