My first V0.1... "the fat finger test"

[mvdveer]

2 minutes ago, smirk said:

Might as well go the full hog.

Only double. Willl leave the hog to you 

[Buurman]

4 hours ago, mvdveer said:

I have taken the cad to the Glazier and they manufactured accordingly:

Picking it up next week.

Cad from here: 

The reason is the glass panels are laminated sound proof glass

I hate you....

Curious how you like it, looks amazing!!!

[Buurman]

oh, its good to feel like @mvdveersometimes, see what I found in a dark corner....

i can continue right now!

[claudermilk]

"Oh look! A spare controller board!" 

[Buurman]

Ok, last week I had covid and some fever, but I really dropped the ball on this...

I think I never fried the board, I think (no I am certain but ashamed) didnt change the DIR setting, but the ENABLE pin setting by mistake with a exclamation mark. So what then happens is that your motors get power on IDLE status, and you hear them buzz, and they go in free when you try a home...

This is why I thought I fried it, I didnt notice the freeing up, I mean I dont try to move the head while giving a move command....

I found out now, after replacing the board, running into exactly the same issue, what means.. I am an idiot in general, bu to be certain I flashed the board 3 times, with a default BIN from BTT and a manual one (what I prefer).

I connected a seperate motor, and then I found out.. its free.. wait... check my config, then I noticed.. ! mark was gone before the ENABLE pin setting.

Ok... should get it working now.. damn.. I really messed up last week, I blame covid, lets keep it at that... right? please... guys? ok?  

[smirk]

1 hour ago, Buurman said:

oh, its good to feel like @mvdveersometimes

Sorry to pop your bubble, unless you found it in a dark corner of the Learjet next to a huge pile of Raspberry Pi's, the Lost Ark of the Covenant and some gold bricks I very much doubt it!

16 minutes ago, Buurman said:

I blame covid

Old age, disease, fat fingers it doesn't matter. This is a safe space and you're big enough to admit it

Glad that you're back on track. Think we've all had those moments and at least you didn't buy a replacement (like I generally do) so all in all it's a win-win.

[Buurman]

I found my other point of confusion, at least, a reasonable excuse....

In the official V0.1 manual:

 

So, idiot as I am, followed this as my guide, I did check FAN connectors and so with the original pin layout, since I noticed they were a little different... but took the motor connections for granted, why would you swap them from V2 to v3 upgrade... right? right?

Then I noticed this top part in the Voron online documentation, for the motor dir part, I love that they put the link to this in the example config... very useful..

See the top part... X is Motor B ... Y is motor A..

What? I checked the PIN layout of my v3 board and...

 

There it is...  First connector is for X, so MOTOR B instead of A.

So thats why I been reconnecting, following wires like a fool, first connector is not A motor it is B motor.

Another one done.. pfff.. stupid BTT board that look the same, but connectors seem to be swapped.

[smirk]

3 hours ago, Buurman said:

Another one done.. pfff.. stupid BTT board that look the same, but connectors seem to be swapped.

The BTT staff are just out of Kindergarten and think it's fun to upset GOMs by randomly moving stuff around. Garn, whippersnappers, no respect for their elders!

[mvdveer]

4 hours ago, Buurman said:

I really messed up last week,

Covid Brain does that to you.

 

4 hours ago, Buurman said:

So, idiot as I am, followed this as my guide, I did check FAN connectors and so with the original pin layout, since I noticed they were a little different... but took the motor connections for granted, why would you swap them from V2 to v3 upgrade... right? right?

Ah, makes me feel better that it was not only me. At least you admitted it, I just silently moved on. (I think I did mention it in my Vo build diary 

 

 

[Buurman]

11 hours ago, mvdveer said:

Ah, makes me feel better that it was not only me. At least you admitted it, I just silently moved on. (I think I did mention it in my Vo build diary 

Yeah, you just put a octopus board in a V0... so you had no real reference  

Ok @mvdveerI have to ask, how did you end up mounting unmounting the Zero click?

I try to edit the Klicky original variables cfg, but there are some conflicting things in there..

Now it needs to attach from the side, instead of the front, seems not like its prepared to do that really, but still experimenting.. If you have a piece of macro its appreciated.

[mvdveer]

5 minutes ago, Buurman said:

Ok @mvdveerI have to ask, how did you end up mounting unmounting the Zero click?

Just used this:

 

Configure Klipper

• Configure the probe pin in your config. Make sure the endstop detects the click with the probe added.
• Configure the bed-probing points, if needed. Example here for T0:

  [z_tilt]
  ....
  #points:
  #   A list of X,Y coordinates (one per line; subsequent lines
  #   indented) that should be probed during a Z_TILT_ADJUST command.
  #   Specify coordinates of the nozzle and be sure the probe is above
  #   the bed at the given nozzle coordinates. This parameter must be
  #   provided.

  # Points for ZeroClick
  points:
      25, 5
      115, 5
      70, 95

• Add macros to attach and detach.  Klicky macros are recommended, but if not using those, or just looking to test attachment and detachment quickly, here are sample macros to use the Center Dock with a V0:

    [gcode_macro ATTACH_PROBE]
    gcode:
          {% set F = 4000 %}   
          SAVE_GCODE_STATE NAME=attach_probe_state
          T1
          G90
          G0 Z14
          G0 Y60 F{F}
          G0 X60 Y60 F{F}
          G0 X-36 Y100 F{F}
          G0 Y118.5 F{F}
          G0 X-16 F{F}
          G0 X60 Y60 F{F}
          RESTORE_GCODE_STATE NAME=attach_probe_state

    [gcode_macro DETACH_PROBE]
    gcode:
          {% set F = 4000 %}
          SAVE_GCODE_STATE NAME=detach_probe_state
          T1
          G90
          G0 Z14
          G0 Y60 F{F}
          G0 X60 Y60 F{F}
          G0 X-16 Y118.5 F{F}
          G0 X-36 F{F}
          G0 Y100 F{F} F{F}
          G0 X60 Y60 F{F}
          RESTORE_GCODE_STATE NAME=detach_probe_state

 

Of course, make sure to change the positions above to match your printer's specific dimensions.

Finally, run HOME, then ATTACH_PROBE, then run Z_TILT or QGL or BED_MESH or whatever you want.

Enjoy!

 

Then adjusted the QGL and Z_Calibrate macros to start with ATTACH_PROBE and end with DETACH_PROBE

[mvdveer]

8 minutes ago, Buurman said:

Yeah, you just put a octopus board in a V0... so you had no real reference

First V0 has a SKR3 board and Klipper expander board - someone, no names, mentioned too many electronics that can go wrong - so 2nd V0 got the octopus board - only one piece of electronics 

[Buurman]

25 minutes ago, mvdveer said:

Just used this:

Configure Klipper

• Configure the probe pin in your config. Make sure the endstop detects the click with the probe added.
• Configure the bed-probing points, if needed. Example here for T0:

  [z_tilt]
  ....
  #points:
  #   A list of X,Y coordinates (one per line; subsequent lines
  #   indented) that should be probed during a Z_TILT_ADJUST command.
  #   Specify coordinates of the nozzle and be sure the probe is above
  #   the bed at the given nozzle coordinates. This parameter must be
  #   provided.

  # Points for ZeroClick
  points:
      25, 5
      115, 5
      70, 95

• Add macros to attach and detach.  Klicky macros are recommended, but if not using those, or just looking to test attachment and detachment quickly, here are sample macros to use the Center Dock with a V0:

    [gcode_macro ATTACH_PROBE]
    gcode:
          {% set F = 4000 %}   
          SAVE_GCODE_STATE NAME=attach_probe_state
          T1
          G90
          G0 Z14
          G0 Y60 F{F}
          G0 X60 Y60 F{F}
          G0 X-36 Y100 F{F}
          G0 Y118.5 F{F}
          G0 X-16 F{F}
          G0 X60 Y60 F{F}
          RESTORE_GCODE_STATE NAME=attach_probe_state

    [gcode_macro DETACH_PROBE]
    gcode:
          {% set F = 4000 %}
          SAVE_GCODE_STATE NAME=detach_probe_state
          T1
          G90
          G0 Z14
          G0 Y60 F{F}
          G0 X60 Y60 F{F}
          G0 X-16 Y118.5 F{F}
          G0 X-36 F{F}
          G0 Y100 F{F} F{F}
          G0 X60 Y60 F{F}
          RESTORE_GCODE_STATE NAME=detach_probe_state

 

Of course, make sure to change the positions above to match your printer's specific dimensions.

Finally, run HOME, then ATTACH_PROBE, then run Z_TILT or QGL or BED_MESH or whatever you want.

Enjoy!

 

Then adjusted the QGL and Z_Calibrate macros to start with ATTACH_PROBE and end with DETACH_PROBE

Ah ok, yeah noticed these, but they are for the central mount, they work on the side mount too, ah wait, yeah, almost same point of course.

Ok, something in my wants to get it working with the Klicky macros, but otherwise, this is the emergency out then...

 

Thanks!

24 minutes ago, mvdveer said:

someone, no names,

No idea, who this idiot is...  

[Buurman]

I managed with Klippy cfg settings to make it work.

Things I adjusted to make the pickup/drop possible on the V0.1 with Zeroclick probe.

In the klicky_variables.cfg:

variable_max_bed_y:            120    # maximum Bed size avoids doing a probe_accuracy outside the bed
variable_max_bed_x:            120    # maximum Bed size avoids doing a probe_accuracy outside the bed

variable_docklocation_x:      1    # X Dock position
variable_docklocation_y:      120    # Y Dock position
variable_docklocation_z:      -128    # Z dock position (-128 for a gantry/frame mount)

#Dock move
Variable_dockmove_x:             0    # Final toolhead movement to release
Variable_dockmove_y:            -30    # the probe on the dock
Variable_dockmove_z:             0    # (can be negative)

#Attach move
Variable_attachmove_x:          -30    # Final toolhead movement to Dock
Variable_attachmove_y:           0    # the probe on the dock
Variable_attachmove_z:           0    # (can be negative)

The rest was kept default I think.

[Buurman]

I say... good enough!! (for now...)

[mvdveer]

8 hours ago, Buurman said:

I say... good enough!! (for now...)

Not bad at all

[Zeno]

On 11/7/2022 at 4:09 PM, Buurman said:

Found the perfect usb cable though....Voron colored. 3 for 10 bucks is acceptable.

https://www.amazon.nl/gp/product/B083M4SN3Y/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Nice! Next time you can also consider a flat cable like these:

or a ribbon :
 

These are not the prettiest, but there are some nicer once if you dig arround our typical chinese supplier sites